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Balcony Cracks* S 4a

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14m. Climb to the upper niche, passing a huge jammed block, then take the left arete until it is possible to pull rightwards over the bulge and finish up exposed flakes in the final wall. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 291 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead rpt - 13/Jul/14

razzorbuzz - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/14 with Mike

mcrockett - 2nd O/S - 05/Jul/14 with razzorbuzz

Marmoset - 2nd O/S - 01/Jul/14

Hidden - Lead - 01/Jul/14

origamib - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/14

benlatham07 - 2nd O/S - 23/Jun/14

WhipperSnapper - 2nd O/S - 20/Jun/14

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Jun/14

mrteale - Solo O/S - 17/Jun/14

MrBIond - Solo - 17/Jun/14

Hidden - Lead - 14/Jun/14

Paul Hy - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/14 with Phil T

the power - 2nd rpt - 11/Jun/14 with Paul Hy

Good pro but maybe nearer 4b in places
ralphio - Lead O/S - 26/May/14

Nick1812P - Solo O/S - 14/May/14

Hidden - Solo O/S - 09/May/14

Thought this was harder than Balcony Climb
dashby - 2nd - 06/May/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/May/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/May/14

At least as hard as Balcony Climb
JohnHutch - 2nd - 30/Apr/14 with Pip, Nik H

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Apr/14

alaster tonge - Solo O/S - 21/Apr/14

stuart90 - 17/Apr/14 with Laura Thompson

LDJ - 2nd - 15/Apr/14 with Alfie, Lou

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Apr/14

RKernan - 2nd - 13/Apr/14 with Lisa Davison

Hidden - Solo O/S - 12/Apr/14

Seemed closer to HS - maybe we were getting tired.
JohnHutch - Lead - 11/Apr/14 with Morris Rodham

rich_hw - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/14 with Milly_PCC

ade sheffield - Lead - 09/Mar/14 with Chris Saywell

martinbettridge06 - 2nd - Mar/14

NickR - Lead - 2014

Alfie Conn - 2014

a slightly suspect affair with wet, green & slimy holds
GermanAlex - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/13

Powney - 2nd - 05/Oct/13 with Andy, Carol

tradguy - Lead rpt - 05/Oct/13 with magda cavanna

mcaterina - 2nd - 05/Oct/13 with paul highams

Andy Moles - Solo O/S - 30/Sep/13 with -

Hidden - Solo - 18/Sep/13

Mayaculpa - Lead - 03/Sep/13 with Jock Smith

ChrisBrooke - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/13 with Cat Freeman, Keeley Scholes

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/13

Stuck at last move for ages. Locals at bottom heckled! Col found easy route when seconding, though!
DanTT - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/13 with Col Silcock

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/13

deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13

the power - 2nd - 01/Jun/13 with deacon

Felt happier on this lead. It's less strenuous but more exposed than Amazon Crack.
Alaric - Lead rpt - 01/Jun/13 with Kirsty McL

Hidden - 16/May/13

Hidden - Lead - 06/May/13

Lots of jamming, and struggles to step left out of the overhang. Great route though!
gsavell - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/13 with Sarah Knight

Chris wilson - Lead - 21/Apr/13 with Andy G

K Wall - Lead - 20/Apr/13 with Martin

Phil373 - 2nd O/S - 20/Apr/13

Charley17 - 24/Feb/13

Nick Sillem - Solo O/S - 2013

AlanPedrick - 2013

JdotP - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/12 with The Boy Wunda

LesserTrochanter - 2nd - 20/Oct/12 with John Proctor

AndySL - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/12 with Deano

Hidden - Lead rpt - 15/Sep/12

riff156 - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/12 with Matt Crawford

quickdrawmcraw - 2nd - 08/Sep/12 with steve

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/12

Nick F Smith - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/12 with Kat Polyakova

Kat4kgb - 2nd - 04/Sep/12 with Nick Smith

bullybones - Lead - 31/Aug/12 with Neil

Joby - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Joff Butts

DaveB61 - 2nd - 08/Aug/12 with Mike Dowsett

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/12

Nice exposure, brilliant gear, fun all round!
Griff1990 - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/12 with Becky Pollard

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Jul/12

robinmuzette - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/12 with Harry Yarrow, jake lodge

yarrow - Solo O/S - 25/Jun/12

razzorbuzz - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/12 with Andy Elliot

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/12

Merlin - 2nd O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Phil Chalkley

jasonpm - Lead O/S - 25/May/12

bobstones - 2nd O/S - 20/May/12

Sam Maher - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with Mike Davie

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/May/12

Hidden - Lead - 09/Apr/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/12

eburki1 - 2nd O/S - 25/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead - 22/Mar/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Mar/12

Neil Rodgers (PCC) - 2nd O/S - 22/Mar/12 with David PCC, Mick Sissons

Sarah Harri - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/12 with Heather Sinclair

Sean Kelly - 2012

akhughes - Solo O/S - 2012

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Nov/11

seanlikeskites - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/11 with Jack Pattinson

jockpat - 2nd O/S - 22/Oct/11 with Sean Enderby

Anthony Dixon - Solo - 18/Sep/11

Reedymc - 2nd O/S - 21/Aug/11 with Nick Mitchell

Nigel Bond - Lead - 17/Aug/11 with Bern Hardman

Colin Scotchford - 2nd - 31/Jul/11

reminds me of an easy 'Sloth' from the Roaches.
Luke_G - 2nd O/S - 23/Jul/11 with Kevin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/11

Kevin Walker - Lead - 23/Jul/11 with Ben, Luke

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Jul/11

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/11

probably worth severe in other areas but compared to the Severes / hard severes in popular end this one could be worth HS 4b. Nice climbing and steep at the top
CurlyStevo - Lead - Jul/11 with Kevin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/11

adamjeffs - 2nd O/S - 15/Jun/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Jun/11

gronbech - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11 with oumc

Gerallt Owain - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/11 with Lowri Evans

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/Jun/11

Found it hard for the grade.
rockman - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/11 with Tim Edwards

timcedwards - 2nd - 02/Jun/11 with Geoff Mee

Hidden - 2nd - 21/May/11

FrJ - Lead - 27/Apr/11 with Tim Hunting

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/11

nick ferro - 22/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd β - 22/Apr/11

eeonz - Lead - 14/Apr/11

Hidden - Solo O/S - 12/Apr/11

James_D - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/11 with Rach

chrisanderson - 2nd - 09/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead - 07/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead - Mar/11

Hidden - 2011

David Smith - 2011

probso - 2011

LP - 2011

Hidden - Dec/10

LiamAD - Lead O/S - 07/Nov/10 with Izzie Sutcliffe

andy_e - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/10

Wet!
mr random - 2nd - 19/Oct/10 with Rob Laird-

tomtom89 - Lead - 16/Oct/10 with Jack

jac00 - 2nd O/S - 16/Oct/10 with Tom

Sarah Harri - 2nd - 10/Oct/10 with Stephen, John

Stephen_L - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/10

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Aug/10

Much better than it looks
Howard J - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10 with Jeff Burgum

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/10

christina9689 - 2nd - 24/Jul/10 with dkelly

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 11/Jul/10

harder bolder than amazon still severe tho very satisfying
glennofsheff - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/10

Fran S8 - Solo - Jul/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/10

tom_1985 - Lead O/S - Jun/10 with Jules

Tony Mustow - 2nd O/S - 31/May/10

Neil Rodgers (PCC) - Lead O/S - 27/May/10 with Marilyn

Good
andrea83 - 2nd O/S - 27/May/10 with Peak CC

Stone_donkey - 2nd - 24/May/10 with Duncan Beard

Hidden - 2nd - 08/May/10

Graeme Hammond - Solo rpt - 01/May/10

JohnHutch - 2nd - 29/Apr/10 with Nik H, L

buxtoncoffeelover - Lead - 29/Apr/10

Alaric - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/10 with Richard, Sarah, Ed

Ed Griffin - 2nd O/S - 17/Apr/10 with Richard McDermott, Sara Kedge, Alaric

MPSBunny - Lead - 11/Apr/10 with Gio Cracolici

Jim Slater - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/10 with Alan

andrew sandercock - Solo O/S - 07/Mar/10

Harder than Balcony Climb - or were my hands just colder?
JohnHutch - Lead - 05/Mar/10 with SC

Recovery from a bad start
Richard Gilbert - Lead O/S - 2010 with Alex Lambert

kitkat78 - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/09 with Colin

SteveM - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/09 with Andy

Alpandy - 2nd O/S - 10/Oct/09 with Steve

RFWilkie - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/09 with Sarah

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Sep/09

WendyT - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/09 with James Marsh

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/09

Not keen on this climb, felt like a HS to me.
frume - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/09 with Collin

davenev - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/09 with luke

Karlos - Solo - 08/Aug/09

Lot easier than it looks
jimorothy - 2nd - 26/Jun/09 with Scott Barnett

rocktigger - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/09 with Jonny

Hidden - Solo O/S - 04/Jun/09

climbercromie - 2nd rpt - Jun/09 with Ian Woodrow

Better than I expected, and I'd say worth 2 stars. Varied, with satisfying, steep finish on good holds. No polish on this one!
barrylong - Lead O/S - 24/May/09 with Kathryn

vvanhinsbergh - Lead O/S - 24/May/09 with Adam Shackleton

adamlives - 2nd O/S - 24/May/09 with vvanhinsbergh

Hidden - Lead - 24/May/09

mikej - Lead - 21/Apr/09 with Rick Naylor

Ok for a warm up route.
markblair - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/09 with Charles Thornhill

Mutl3y - 2nd - 19/Apr/09 with Clog

Clog - Lead - 19/Apr/09 with Mutl3y

smudge - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/09 with Will G

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 11/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/09

sims - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/09 with Jonno

BRUCESTRAC - 2009

kimrickwood - 2009

Hidden - 2009

Hidden - 2009

mark_jc - 2009

VERY COLD, couldn't really use hands
davefount - Lead O/S - 22/Nov/08 with Tom Hunns

DanT - Lead O/S - 18/Oct/08 with James Brierley

Retroman3 - 2nd O/S - 18/Oct/08 with Dan

charley - 2nd O/S - 06/Oct/08 with Dan

Adrian Bates - 2nd - 28/Sep/08 with Darrell Russell

First climb of the day and not a good choice. This is not my kind of Severe. It seems like every time I come back to grit I scare myself silly on the first lead of the day. It would probably be better if I second a route or just go a do a bit of bouldering (actually this is not a bad idea .. I'll try it next I come back to grit)
Dax - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/08 with Adrian Bates

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Sep/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/08

whiting.jp - 2nd - 27/Sep/08 with jamesca

petemeads - Solo - 23/Aug/08

Si dH - 2nd O/S - 20/Jul/08 with Neil Furniss

Kirill - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/08 with Dina, Ilia

A fine route.
Simon Caldwell - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/08 with Carmen

Felt more like a 4b to me. Christine couldn't manage it and sneaked round to Fairy Chimney instead.
Blisco - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/08 with Christine Forder, Alistair Jackson

Rampikino - 2nd - 31/May/08 with MMC Various

Hidden - 2nd - 29/May/08

andybeanland - Lead O/S - 28/May/08 with Alyson

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Apr/08

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/08

thinair48 - Lead O/S - 2008 with Gareth

Graeme Hammond - 2nd O/S - 20/Sep/07 with Phil Baxter

pdisney - Lead - 09/Sep/07 with Dom

flyboy86 - Lead O/S - Sep/07 with Dave Clarke

Andy Clarke - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/07 with Ralph

Hidden - Lead - 04/Aug/07

Ian Broome - 2nd - 31/Jul/07 with Matt, Tanya

Hidden - 2nd - 31/Jul/07

plastikman - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/07 with Ian

malc - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/07 with Paul S

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/Jun/07

A Crook - 2nd - 05/Jun/07 with Dom Stockton

Jim Vach - Solo O/S - 19/May/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/07

jcurley - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/07 with Colin Milton

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo O/S - 15/Apr/07

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Apr/07

no_more_scotch_eggs - 2nd O/S - Apr/07 with loudfish

colin milton - Lead - Apr/07 with joe curly

craig matheson - Solo - Apr/07

rich_greeny - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/07 with Owain Atkins, Ben Hanson

SamStrong - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/07 with Mark Stitson

Mark Stitson (ULGMC) - 2nd - 10/Mar/07 with Sam Strong

Pythonist - Solo O/S - 02/Mar/07 with Teddington

sparkoclimb - Lead - Mar/07 with Heath

Yellow_trousers - 2nd - 2007 with Tom Sparkes

Hidden - 2007

timmy-ts - 2007

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/06

Hidden - Sep/06

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Jul/06

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - Jun/06

jimdanson - Lead O/S - 21/Jan/06 with Dan Robinson

howlingbaboon - Lead O/S - Jan/06 with Neil

Tobias at Home - 2006

HamishD - Lead O/S - 2006 with Ross Overhead

Nicos - Solo O/S - 20/Oct/05 with solo

rob wmc - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/05 with Pete

Rik Dawes - Lead O/S - 2005

maria85 - 2nd - 03/Oct/04 with ?

Hidden - Lead - 08/Aug/04

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Jul/04

victim of mathematics - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/04 with Jaime

Will Gordon - Lead O/S - Mar/04 with Tom Roberts

Hidden - Lead - 2004

nigel pearson - 2nd - 27/Sep/03 with Yoko

Hidden - Lead - 21/Sep/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/03

Hidden - Solo O/S - 25/May/03

Phil West - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/02 with Chris Tan

Hidden - Lead RP - 19/May/02

Dave Toseland - 2002

martroberts - Lead O/S - Jun/01

Chris Ellis - Lead rpt - 26/May/01 with Louise Pellett

Hidden - 2nd - May/01

Rock Fairy - Lead - 2001

Rock Fairy - Lead - 2001

Hidden - Solo O/S - Sep/00

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Aug/00

Gman - Lead O/S - Aug/00 with Ed, Eamon

Rock Fairy - Lead - 2000

Adi Hooper - Lead - 2000 with Sherborne Adventure Group

rlrs - Lead - 1999

rachm2004 - 2nd - 05/Oct/96 with Ian L

tradguy - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/96 with Ed Lamb

ed_1973 - 2nd - 13/Jun/96 with paul highams

excellent route, ***.
Rog Wilko - 2nd - Apr/96 with Debbie Wilkinson

Hidden - 1996

Chris Ellis - 2nd - 26/Jul/95 with Rachel Nicolson

Roget - Solo O/S - 30/Apr/95

rurp - 1995

babymoac - Lead - 27/Sep/92 with Manda

Hidden - Solo O/S - 29/Aug/92

Andy Say - Solo - 04/Sep/89

Hidden - Lead - 03/Sep/89

Iain Thow - 2nd - 11/Sep/88 with Steve di Ponio

Tom V - 04/Jun/86 with Glenn Watson

Hidden - Lead - 1986

Rog Wilko - Lead - Dec/70 with Debbie Wilkinson

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
druss, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 126
hard HS0 of 47
HS0 of 47
easy HS14 of 47
hard S10 of 47
S22 of 47
easy S1 of 47
hard HVD0 of 47
HVD0 of 47
easy HVD0 of 47
hard 4b0 of 41
4b0 of 41
easy 4b9 of 41
hard 4a20 of 41
4a9 of 41
easy 4a3 of 41
hard 3c0 of 41
3c0 of 41
easy 3c0 of 41
3 Stars0 of 38
2 Stars9 of 38
1 Star22 of 38
0 Stars7 of 38
Bag of .....0 of 38
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Style of ascent

Soloed30 of 291 (10.3%)
Lead142 of 291 (48.8%)
Followed92 of 291 (31.6%)
Alt Leads2 of 291 (0.7%)
Unknown25 of 291 (8.6%)

'Climbed'127 of 291 (43.6%)
clean O/S152 of 291 (52.2%)
clean β1 of 291 (0.3%)
clean rpt10 of 291 (3.4%)
clean RP1 of 291 (0.3%)