Derbyshire > Stanage Popular >
 
Lucy's Joy E1 5b

Adjacent Climbs
<< Lucy's Delight
 
Left Twin Chimney >>
18m. The steep narrowing slab has tricky and poorly protected moves to pass the bulge. Unfortunately it is relatively easy to avoid the crux on its left as Lucy's Delight, VS 4b. © ROCKFAX
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 61 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

planetmarshall - 2nd - 27/Jul/14 with Peter Stone

Marmoset - TR O/S - 27/Jul/14

Hidden - Jun/14

monkeymatt - Lead O/S - 05/May/14 with Marc Dacks

Hidden - Lead - 28/Apr/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/14

A good little climb. Led it before. Quite tough technically for 5b but well protected crux. Can't believe someone has suggested e2 for this. You can get three good cams in the break right at the crux and there is only one hard move on the whole route.
climberchristy - Lead rpt - 29/Mar/14 with Ben Cole

shouter - 2nd - 2014

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - 07/Nov/13 with Jonny P

timreynolds - TR - 28/Sep/13

Used a scoop out right and it felt about 5C. Don't know how eliminate this is but would be nails going straight to the ledge from the undercut.
deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/13

5c and e2. A nice move.
James Oswald - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/13 with Kyle Wood

bit of a one move wonder and, as has been said, escapable. however, still quite enjoyable. had to scratch me head a bit to figure it out, but when it goes its not as improbable as it first seems, {spoiler} I managed it in balance with left hand on the arete and right on a crimp.
dr_botnik - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/13 with Phil Taylor

joemallia - 2nd O/S - 17/Jun/13 with Mark Sinclair

Avoided the Crux to the left (Lucy's Delight).
Ian MK - Lead dnf - 05/May/13 with Fraser Camble

smarsy_93 - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/12 with Tom Evans

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/12

stupid route, jump for ledge which you can avoid 2ft to left or right!
rurp - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/12

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Jun/12

dprctr - Lead O/S - 20/May/12 with Hok-Him Poon, Martin H, Kim Mulji

Chris moved left into Twin Chimneys Buttress to avoid the crux and I followed him!
Phil West - 2nd - 06/May/12 with Chris Tan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Mar/12

john lynch - 2nd O/S - 24/Nov/11 with Lewis Andrew

Justaname - TR O/S - 06/Nov/11 with John Hawley

jon clayton - Lead - 22/Oct/11

May have fudged the crux by reaching out right.
domskezz - Lead O/S - Aug/11 with Jamma

Sam Simpson - Lead O/S - 02/May/11 with Christian Turford

alias dave - 2nd O/S - 02/May/11 with Sam.EB

David Smith - 2011

jfane - Lead O/S - 2011

Hidden - Dec/10

claregardiner - Lead - 02/Oct/10

Hidden - 30/Sep/10

Guido slid off ontoTwin Chimneys Buttress after the first hard move and I before it!
Tony Holdsworth - 2nd dnf - 30/Sep/10 with Guido

Adam Potter - Lead O/S - 16/May/10

Jethro - Lead - Mar/10 with Richard Sharpe

richyg - 2010

Hidden - Lead - 2010

billy no mates - on a shunt no way is the crux 5b... got to be 5c at least unless you grab the arete a little
Dom Whillans - 05/Aug/09

Chris Craggs - 2nd - 02/Aug/09 with Colin Binks

fatbuoybazza - Lead dnf - 26/Apr/09 with liv_the_div

Hidden - Lead dnf - 26/Apr/09

HamishD - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/08 with Annette (unumc)

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Oct/08

Hidden - Solo - 13/May/08

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Apr/08

good climbing till the bulge, which has got to be harder than 5b, yes you can escape left, but the route is meant to go straight up. tried it on the top rope, even then the bulge was desperate..
fatbuoybazza - Lead dnf - 2008 with olivia & phil

Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/07 with Fiona Saunders

Hidden - Lead - 21/Sep/07

maybe_si - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/07 with charlie

Hidden - Lead rpt - 23/May/07

EAYL - 2nd - 03/Nov/06 with Luketheape

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Sep/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/06

Contrived
Iggy_B - Lead O/S - Apr/06 with Simon Troop

Hidden - Lead dnf - 22/Sep/05

Will Gordon - TR - Mar/05

Hidden - TR - 08/Aug/04

Hidden - TR - Aug/04

Hidden - 2000

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Commando, Justaname

Voting
Total votes cast 38
hard E20 of 13
E21 of 13
easy E20 of 13
hard E10 of 13
E111 of 13
easy E11 of 13
hard HVS0 of 13
HVS0 of 13
easy HVS0 of 13
hard 5c0 of 13
5c0 of 13
easy 5c5 of 13
hard 5b3 of 13
5b4 of 13
easy 5b1 of 13
hard 5a0 of 13
5a0 of 13
easy 5a0 of 13
3 Stars0 of 12
2 Stars0 of 12
1 Star8 of 12
0 Stars3 of 12
Bag of .....1 of 12
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Style of ascent

Soloed2 of 61 (3.3%)
Lead32 of 61 (52.5%)
Followed13 of 61 (21.3%)
Toproped6 of 61 (9.8%)
Alt Leads1 of 61 (1.6%)
Unknown7 of 61 (11.5%)

'Climbed'27 of 61 (44.3%)
clean O/S26 of 61 (42.6%)
clean rpt2 of 61 (3.3%)
dnf6 of 61 (9.8%)