Rockfax Description
A fine and tenuous finger-crack. Gain the base of the crack from the left via the big pocket or (harder) from below. Perfect wires protect thin layback moves at two-thirds height and the awkward finishing crack which is less bold than it used to be. © Rockfax

FA. Ed Drummond 1975

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Hardish grit routes that have good gear but aren't staminafests, Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day, World Graded List, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age, Stanage for Crack Apprentices, WideBoyz Crack School, Ultimate E3 ticklist, Sweet-Ass Stanage E3's.

Tom.Priestley 03/Oct 2nd rpt

Following Rory, done clean.

James Oakes 01/Oct Lead O/S
HaddRoots 22/Sep Lead G/U
with Kai
mikespooner 16/Aug 2nd β

Amazed to get this clean after having a mare on Desperation, maybe should have led it? :P

john lynch 09/Jun 2nd
with Dylan, Lewis Andrew
phil64 04/Jun Lead rpt

Amazing little climb, non stop climbing!

with dave
BRoe 21/May Lead O/S
with Will Lord, Millard
Mike W 12/May 2nd
Andy Peak 1 01/May Lead rpt

Fantastick got everything rite today

with Jone nuttal
Alistair Corbett ?/May Lead

foot popped on the first attempt but got it 2nd time round. Dubious of the 6a element!

with Mike
Louishmouis 26/Apr Lead O/S
with Felix
scott quinn 24/Apr Lead O/S

preplaced the friend in the big pocket from my mates shoulders didn't want to fluff the little jump which was actually easy when I went, good climbing shame its so short

Tom.Priestley 24/Apr 2nd dog

Not strong enough to hang on, did all the moves tho.

drysori 20/Apr TR
Kevster 18/Apr Lead O/S
with Lizzie
Compo 18/Apr Lead O/S
grp 22/Mar Lead G/U
fuzzysheep01 21/Mar TR dog
with Pierce Ferris
AdrianP 20/Mar Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2015 Lead
MarkRoe 05/Nov/14 Lead G/U

Had a quick look on abseil, then go it on the second attempt. A 5c move into a 6a move into a rest into another 6a move then your pretty much at the top. Short and sharp.

harry_lewis 02/Nov/14 Lead dnf
Oddjob 10/Oct/14 2nd β
with Tom
Richard Hession 19/Aug/14 2nd β
with Greg C
climb the peak 12/Jul/14 Lead RP
Hidden 03/Jul/14 TR RP
robman 24/Jun/14 Lead O/S

thought the 1st couple of moves were the hardest bit

peter.ravenscroft27 23/Jun/14 2nd
mrteale 17/Jun/14 Lead dog

fell at the crux then finished off, will be back! Superb.

with MrBlond
Luxulyan 12/Jun/14 2nd
with Tom Murrell
climberchristy 03/May/14 Lead G/U

Came off on crux after spending too long sorting gear. Crack also a bit damp. Finished. Ben seconded to strip gear then I re-led ground-up clean. Fab route. So much cleaner and better than it looks from below.

with Ben Cole
Hidden ?/May/14 TR O/S
tprebs 18/Apr/14 Lead dog

way too hot to try this. felt like I had heat stroke after!

with Conor Cadden
cjcuni ?/Apr/14 2nd dog
WillDoyle 05/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
Lotoni ?/Dec/13 TR
with kuz
DaveMo 06/Oct/13 2nd O/S

clean second. difficult start - long reach to the pocket.

with Joe Chambers, Jan
tim newton 05/Oct/13 Lead G/U

slipped off first go, lowered, pulled ropes, steady second go. The hardest move is the first getting to the pocket

kiks 29/Sep/13 Lead
with Joe
Hidden 29/Sep/13 2nd dog
ChrisBrooke 03/Aug/13 2nd
with Dan McManus
emily_allen 24/Jul/13 2nd O/S
MikeLeeds 21/Jul/13 TR

Too scared to commit to the starting move, hence the top-rope

with John McMahon
tsjx 21/Jul/13 TR dnf

Got about 2/3 the way up. Didn't read the route description before hand and so didn't realise that I was at a key layback move. tried to fingerlock, came off.

deacondeacon 17/Jul/13 Lead O/S

not a true onsight as I had some beta shouted up to me which really helped. wouldn't have got up it clean otherwise.

Andy Peak 1 17/Jul/13 2nd
with Andrew Deckon
Michael Allday 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Wizzy ?/Jul/13 2nd β

Really nice finger crack

marcduhig 29/Jun/13 Lead RP
with Iain G
oodie72 29/Jun/13 2nd dnf
w.pettet-smith 16/Jun/13 Lead


with claire jane carter
DanOsb 16/Jun/13 2nd

not a great warm up after being sat in a car for 2 hours. lovely climbing though.

Welly Matt 04/Jun/13 Lead RP

Great Protection, with 2 small nuts in the middle and a cam in the pocket. Beautiful Sunset to boot.

shouter 04/Jun/13 TR
drysori 26/May/13 Lead O/S

Wanted to do this for years, but every time I felt up to it it was wet! Good climbing, shame it isn't 3 times as long. Not as hard as I expected and the gear is perfect.

with Ali
Pippa 26/May/13 Lead O/S
mountain_jay 26/May/13 2nd
Dibdawg 25/May/13 Lead dnf

One for another day!

with Morna Middleton
john lynch 22/May/13 Lead

slipped off initial moves, got 2nd go- great route!

Voltemands 04/May/13 TR dnf

Damn hard. Well above my current ability, did maybe 3 moves then gave up.

with Matt Crack
mattcrack 04/May/13 TR O/S
with Ben Walton
Hidden 30/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Brown 28/Aug/12 Lead
with John
redjerry 12/Aug/12 TR O/S
shed_hed 28/Jul/12 2nd β

Happy with this! Alun pointed out a couple of vital holds which allowed me to get up clean, otherwise I'd have probably pumped out figuring out the moves.

with Alun Freem
WB 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S

sketched at the top

with Guy
Jacob Bloodworth 27/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Dean177 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Lottie Faulkner
Hidden 28/Mar/12 Lead O/S
timmyhobby 24/Mar/12 Lead RP

my 3rd and defiantly best E3 so far. hard climbing but with great gear, fell on the first atempt at midday due to sweaty fingers, got it clean just before dark, love it!

Luke Brooks 22/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Mar/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 20/Mar/12 TR O/S
Chi Cheng 11/Mar/12 Lead dnf

Wet and Green

dannyboy83 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/11 Lead O/S
barni 26/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Ami
pie_eater_pete 23/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/11 2nd
natalietanzer 10/Jul/11 2nd
with nacnud
nacnud 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Fran S8 05/Jul/11 Lead dog

One fall more than half way up....gutted!

Owain Llewelyn 26/Jun/11 Lead
with Doddy
Hidden 25/May/11 Lead O/S
geddicakes 25/May/11 2nd
Hidden 07/May/11 Lead O/S
morganator 05/May/11 Lead O/S
with Stan Halstead
thomasadixon 01/May/11 Lead O/S

Tough tenuous move.

with Mike
flatland_warrior 18/Apr/11 TR dog
billb 18/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Brilliant but I wish it was longer..

Kyuzo 02/Apr/11 -
with Joe Prinold
Hidden 02/Apr/11 2nd O/S
morganator 25/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Stan Halstead
steve_yo 23/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with smacks
markalmack 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S

too short for 3 stars!

with andy graham, simon bulmer
GPN 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Andy Graham 19/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with Mark Almack
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
mwatson ??/2011 -
Hidden ?/Dec/10 -
highlux 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Froze my fingers so downclimbed to ground with one runner in, then sent it clean. Classic but all over too quickly!

Chris Ellis 17/Oct/10 2nd
Hidden 22/Aug/10 2nd dog
rubben 22/Aug/10 2nd O/S

After dad lead it, I followed up! Didn't get to feel the true authenticity of the route whilst placing gear (as seconding), so didn't really appreciate the difficulty - easy on second, but lovely climb! Will return to lead myself for sure!

with Marcus O'Leary, roland o'leary
Marcus 22/Aug/10 Lead
dave o 19/Aug/10 Lead

fell of first go, got it from the ground with the gear in the next

with Julia H
FlorianCastagne 09/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Nathan Rosenfeld
Hidden 18/Jun/10 2nd
Sam Simpson 18/May/10 TR dnf

Skipped the first move by ascending, then shunted throught the crack..culd not work out how to start, very difficult,will definately come back and work at it

jowgli 17/May/10 Lead RP
chrisclimber_1986 17/May/10 2nd dog
with William Kelsall
Hidden ?/May/10 Lead β
Hidden 27/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Liam Ingram 24/Apr/10 2nd dog
with David
Hidden 23/Apr/10 Lead
jon clayton 21/Apr/10 Lead

aahhhhhh what a climb

gingerwolf 18/Apr/10 2nd O/S
burto 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with fergus
Fergus Cuthill 17/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/10 TR dog
Hidden ?/Apr/10 Lead RP
The Green Giant ?/Apr/10 Lead dnf

Fell off moving off rest.

with Jon
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
RossG ??/2010 -
Mike Goldthorp 31/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Sep/09 Lead RP
Ram MkiV 17/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Totally superb and definitive E3 6a. Provaricated half way up for a while in search of a solid way to do the crux. Still ended up feeling tenuous but great moves.

with Al
anguskille 25/Aug/09 Lead β

what an ace route, just out of my comfort zone, felt myself well pushin on this

SMc 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Anne
fennerz 14/Jun/09 Lead O/S


with Dan Lane
Hidden 26/Apr/09 Lead dog
Hidden 13/Apr/09 Lead
Dan 85 06/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Rich
Hidden 06/Apr/09 2nd O/S
eddy-on-the-rocks 04/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Geoff
Pete Graham ?/Apr/09 Lead
with Rick Graham
Flash29 14/Oct/08 2nd

cramp in forearms halfway up the route, awesome

with Irish
irish paul 14/Oct/08 Lead

foot popped, beautiful route

with Dave Roberts
joe c ook ?/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Nate
Hidden ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
steve_biczyk 27/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Emma Curry
IanJackson 30/Jun/08 Lead

Felt alot harder than last time, fell once, but not on the crux, wasnt paying attention to relaxed with the great gear!!

with Adam1973
Nicos 29/Jun/08 Lead O/S
craig d ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Simon Kincaid
Julia Chatterton 24/May/08 TR

Beautiful technical moves, can't wait til I am confident enough to lead this.

with Will
Ed Booth 17/Feb/08 Lead O/S

Awesome, my brother led it too for his first E3 o.s, wickid!

IanJackson 17/Feb/08 Lead O/S

Not sure were the E3 bit was, or the 6a bit! : Glad i didnt solo it thou, (thanks for the climb Adam and Ed)

with Adam Booth
Adam Booth 17/Feb/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2008 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Oli 12/Nov/07 Lead O/S

Some nuts were preplaced from when Ally did Boc No Buttress.

with Ally
MYSSAK 07/Oct/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 06/Oct/07 2nd
Hidden 06/Oct/07 Lead O/S
sparkass ?/Oct/07 Lead RP
Alex Mason 30/Sep/07 Lead O/S

good route sustained but easy 6a

with Vash
willackers 22/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Dan Walker
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 09/Jun/07 2nd rpt
mbutton ?/May/07 Lead O/S
with Alex Adgar
Hidden 27/Mar/07 TR dog
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
mshorter ??/2007 Lead
with dunc
jamesturnbull ??/2007 Lead
with john w
Hidden 08/Aug/06 TR dog
Hidden 04/Aug/06 Lead O/S
dan gibson 18/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
Brian Rodgers ?/Jul/05 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Hidden ?/Aug/04 2nd O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 14/Jun/03 Lead O/S
ian bryant 07/Jun/03 Lead rpt
with rod
DubyaJamesDubya 27/Apr/03 Lead O/S

First E3 of the year and early too.

with John Bunny
Hidden 29/Mar/03 2nd rpt
Hidden 08/Aug/02 TR
james wardle ?/Jul/02 2nd O/S
with Henrey Leavy (RIP)
Hidden 04/May/02 2nd dog
Obi-Wan is lost... 04/May/02 Lead

Nick got halfway and placed some gear then gave up, I lead it finishing it off.

with Nick
Hidden ??/2002 Lead O/S
Jon Greengrass ??/2002 2nd dog
with Rich
Hidden 07/Jul/01 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jun/01 2nd
Boy ?/Oct/00 -
Hidden 09/Sep/00 2nd
Hidden 19/Jul/00 TR
Mark Riley ?/May/00 Lead rpt
with Richard Ibberson
nickdonohue 26/Mar/00 2nd
with David ?, Sue Pinner
Hidden ??/2000 -
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
nige ??/2000 -
Dave Musgrove Jnr 23/Jul/99 Lead
with Andy Benson, tim russon
Hidden 19/Jul/99 Lead O/S
ste_d 18/Jul/97 2nd O/S
with mik
Jon Read ?/Jun/97 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/May/95 TR
Hidden 27/Apr/95 Lead
Hidden 27/Apr/95 -
Hidden ?/Apr/95 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/94 Lead
goi.ashmore 01/Jul/94 Lead O/S
with Dee Herbert
John Southworth ?/Jul/94 Lead RP
Hidden 29/Jun/94 TR
Hidden ?/May/94 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby 06/Jun/93 Lead O/S
with Phil
mikedelderfield 01/May/93 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/92 Lead
Craig Barton ??/1992 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Oct/91 Lead dog
Hidden 24/Jul/91 Lead O/S
Rob Davies 14/Jul/91 TR
AB1965 09/Apr/90 Lead
Hidden ??/1990 -
phardman 24/Jun/88 Lead

1 fall ripping F0.5

shark 27/Sep/87 Lead
with Seb Grieve
Bruce Kerr 13/Jul/87 Lead
with Colin Gilchrist
Mike Owen 18/May/87 -
with Elaine Owen
Billg 09/May/87 Lead O/S
with Dave Gregory
sadams 06/Oct/85 Lead

1 fall

with Aylesbury CC
Hidden ??/1983 Lead
Hidden ?/Apr/81 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 24/May/80 Lead
with Steve Finch
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Canyak ??/1973 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
adamre12, Climber1806, griffithpatrick, jimxxx, ashtond6, Hidden, Lenny, Nick1812P, mike mo, Hidden, Hidden, nai, robw007, Hidden, MYox, Hidden, JonnyCastell, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Tangerine_Kingdom, Hidden, sgl0jd, Graham Booth, Hidden, Hidden, Paul Tanner, ChrisBrooke, evanofthefell, Maxim2023, runninginclouds, martroberts, Hidden, ianstevens, virgil, monsteratt, Hidden, jonnybull, r_o_b_h2, mhawk, quiffhanger, Laramadness, Hidden, pabbage, JRae, marclloyd77, Martin Davies, Southern Bell, Hidden, nia, sean0409, Hidden, richiebongo, Hidden, Mr Tickle, Ross Davidson, RFWilkie, drcorbasisgod, Hidden, Dr Caterpillar, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, colin harvey, howifeel, Hidden, rocktigger, Hidden, tommytwotone, C@rwyn, Owen W-G, Lee Horsfall, Peakology, mikekeswick, Hidden, timo.t, tatz45, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 46
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 46
Votes cast 40
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set