16m.

Rockfax Description
Full on at the grade! A boulder problem start f6A+ up a leaning rib leads to a ledge at 5m (or traverse from the left reducing the grade to 5c). Pull through the notch in the roof with difficulty and finish up the wall on sloping holds. © Rockfax

FA. John Allen 1973

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Stanage E2 Challenge (1989 Guide).


ClimberDateStyle
Dave Musgrove Jnr 14/May AltLd
with Louis
James Oakes 17/Apr Lead G/U

Tough start

with Keith Poskitt, Rob Cooper, Andy Lawrence, Bill Lawrence
ashtond6 10/Apr Sent

Done route before

strudles 15/Aug/15 2nd dog

failed on the first hard move, weighted the rope and got it second try. only really skipped the first easier move.

manwithacam 15/Aug/15 Lead

Bit of a fight and fright on this. Fell from pocket of boulder problem first attempt, cam in hole too low and decked onto pad, shaken but unhurt. Few minutes of regrouping and calming down then tried again and got it. Spent about 20 minutes on ledge trying to work out next move through notch, up and down a few times, trying to stay calm. Facing large lob if failed move. Finally decided on move involving high heel in break and left hand on nobble, and got the gorgeous hold above fairly easily. Rest of route as Rockfax describes, placed one undercammed no.3 Camelot. Took about another 20mins to set up belay, faffing around due to all the excitement. Thanks to Stephen for his patience and encouragement. Can't claim onsight but I'm still quite please with how I did on it, it's clearly a stout challenge for E2!

with Stephen
drysori 20/Apr/15 TR
Hidden ??/2015 -
Andy Peak 1 30/Sep/14 Lead

Its all about the rock over

dr_botnik 30/Sep/14 Lead dnf
with Andy
Gudge 16/Jul/14 Lead dnf
ashtond6 13/Jul/14 2nd O/S
ashtond6 01/Mar/14 Lead dnf

seemed bold to do roof at the top, ankle smasher?!?

Hidden ??/2014 -
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
Owen W-G 06/Oct/13 Lead β

Always been intimidated by this one but got inspired watching some chap demo the crux and it looked totally doable. Also got some essential gear thrown up when he pointed out I'd need a really big and a really small cam (I was glad for it) so didn't feel at all onsight. 5c start too but wouldn't fancy direct without pads. Classy crux move.

Hidden 02/Aug/13 Lead
MikeLeeds 21/Jul/13 Lead dnf

Too scared to do the first moves so traversed in. To scared to go up from the ledge so moved onto the climb next door.

with John McMahon
Hidden 31/May/13 2nd dog
Si dH 19/May/13 Lead O/S

Ground up - fell off the start a few times. Seemed hard for V3/6a. Upper crux was steady when I committed.

with Neil Furniss
deacondeacon 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Rad. onsight although did climb up and down the boulder problem before committing. No pads

saffy ??/2013 Lead O/S
Andrew Barker ??/2013 Lead O/S
Joughton 22/Dec/12 Lead O/S

Tough bouldery start, in the end solved by getting a heel on the potruding lump and using a pocket that avoided detection on the first two goes, which I was a little annoyed about... good route.

soph 19/Oct/12 Sent

V3 start - brill

with Rocio, Andy Reeve, jon morgan
morganator 19/Oct/12 Sent
Hidden 27/Sep/12 Lead O/S
w.pettet-smith 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S

previously backed off 2nd crux for want of a small cam. did fine this time but felt well stiff for want of the good regosity for left hand. lovely climbing

with pat
shed_hed 21/Jul/12 2nd dog

A battle all the way to the top!

with Alun Freem
Hidden 17/Jun/12 Lead rpt
maddy.c 31/Mar/12 -
Billg 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Dave Gregory
john lynch 29/Feb/12 2nd O/S

missed boulder start

with adam harrison
Apharri ?/Feb/12 Lead O/S

Avoided boulder start due to damp

Andy Peak 1 28/Oct/11 2nd
with nelil
dannyboy83 15/Oct/11 2nd O/S
markalmack 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with shiobhan
Hannes B 14/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Tom
Mike_Hayes 25/May/11 Lead O/S
geddicakes 25/May/11 2nd
Mark Warnett 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S

hard and bold move up from the ledge

uphillnow ??/2011 -
Tophe ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Dec/10 -
Hidden 17/Oct/10 2nd dog
batterj2 19/Jul/10 TR dnf
with Will Ceuppens
Will_Maxwell 30/May/10 Lead dnf
with Debbie Armstrong, Tim Lewis
withey 19/May/10 Lead dog

Jumped off the start a few times, then manned up and did it. Second crux felt fine. Didn't have any decent gear for the upper section, so escaped onto Cave Arete.

with Nick Mattia
Alex@home ?/May/10 Lead rpt
with The Doctor
Hidden 27/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Apr/10 2nd dog
mark20 27/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/10 Sent O/S
peppermill 07/Mar/10 2nd

First E2 2nd

Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
Boy ?/Oct/09 -
with Nige Kershaw
frost 23/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with N Griffiths
NeilGriffiths 23/Aug/09 2nd
with Simon Frost
Hidden 25/Apr/09 Lead β
thomasadixon 24/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Alan
Reaver2k 24/Apr/09 2nd dog

Annoyingly I fell on the first few moves! I was holding the wrong hold with my right hand for my rockover onto the horn! Really big reach up for the pocket and then an awkward move onto the ledge. The next section is probably even harder but managed to stay on this. Really big reach for a poor hold up right, small rockover move for another poor hold for left hand, right hand out right, right foot out right, then rockover and up onto another poor hold! Awesome, but I thought very hard!

Hidden 06/Mar/09 Sent x
Hidden 08/Sep/08 2nd O/S
andyebbens 17/Aug/08 2nd
with Steve E and Luke
Skell 31/May/08 Lead O/S
with Kelvin
craig d ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden 03/Sep/07 2nd
Hidden 12/Jun/07 Sent x
Hidden ?/Apr/07 2nd
The old James turnbull ??/2007 -
jonnyboy 02/Jan/06 Sent x

boulder start at v3 i think

with Paul A
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Hidden 13/Nov/05 Lead O/S
alicia ?/Nov/05 2nd
with Ali K
Hidden ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
Gus 16/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with ben rouse
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Pete Graham ??/2005 2nd
with Dave Morris
LankyPaddy 23/Sep/04 2nd β

Couldn't fit on the 6a, did the 5c version

Hidden ?/Sep/03 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/03 2nd
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 31/May/03 Lead O/S
DubyaJamesDubya 29/Mar/03 Lead O/S

Came in from the left. E2 5c

with Adrian Casey
Hidden 08/Aug/02 TR
Hidden 04/May/02 2nd dog
Hidden 22/May/01 TR
goi.ashmore 19/Aug/00 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas
Hidden 19/Jul/00 TR
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
Chris the Tall ?/May/99 TR
with Bill G
DavidEvans 28/Apr/99 Lead O/S
Simon Pearce ??/1999 -
Hidden 15/Feb/98 TR
ste_d 18/Jul/97 2nd O/S
with mik
Chris Reid 14/Jun/97 Lead O/S
with Dave Plummer
Jon Read ??/1997 Lead O/S
Bruce Kerr 09/Apr/96 2nd
with Robert Durran
Rich Kirby ??/1996 -
Hidden 27/Apr/95 Lead
Hidden 27/Apr/95 -
Hidden ?/Apr/95 Lead O/S
nai ??/1995 Lead
Hidden ??/1995 Lead
NickJH ?/Aug/94 -
Hidden 19/Jun/94 TR
Hidden 12/Jun/94 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/94 Lead rpt
crossleysm ??/1994 Lead

c.94

mikedelderfield 01/May/93 Lead O/S
Roget 20/Jul/91 Lead O/S
with jon
Steve Crowe 18/May/91 Lead O/S
with KM
steveb2006 21/Jun/88 Lead

Having done the crux Im desperate to complete the hard upper bit before an approaching storm hits. In fact it doesnt rain. Complete theroute but Chris doesnt second

with Chris Grafton
Hidden ??/1988 Lead O/S
steve taylor ??/1987 -
Hidden ?/Sep/86 Lead
Hammy 26/Apr/86 Solo
Hidden ??/1986 Lead
John Marsland 08/Jun/85 Solo dnf

6a start only

sadams 17/Jun/84 2nd
with Pete Herrod
Hidden 02/May/84 Lead
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1982 2nd
with Phil Burke
Hidden ?/Apr/81 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 05/Oct/80 2nd
with Paul Clark
Mike Owen 28/Sep/80 -
with Dave Ellison, Elaine Watson
andy gittins ??/1979 -
petemeads ??/1977 Lead O/S

Upper crux depends on how well you can use the finger pocket - easy second time I tried, impossible the first (some time earlier).

Canyak ??/1973 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, jimxxx, Hidden, hutchay, Graham Booth, RFWilkie, rurp, Hidden, Hidden, Will_Maxwell
Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 27
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 23
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Bouldered
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set