Derbyshire > Stanage Popular >
 
Retroversion** HVS 4c

Adjacent Climbs
<< Inverted V Direct Finish
 
Our Version >>
[Retroversion, Stanage, 2 kb]22m. Climb Inverted V for 5m then traverse the right wall along the lowest break and make unlikely looking moves up the bulging arete. Once back in balance, finish up the rounded rib. © ROCKFAX
FA. Don Morrison 1960s 1965

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, Stanage Routes Graded List, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+.

Photo: Retroversion, Stanage © caradoc
Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 239 logbooks, and on 15 wishlists.

Gudge - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/14 with Steve Collings

grady_9 - 2nd O/S - 24/Sep/14

committing step out, had a bit of a gibber putting a cam into the break at the arete.
Dave Mahon - Lead - 21/Sep/14 with Ben Knudson

Great route. Not sure if I was just reading it wrong or if it was just because it was the last climb of the day but felt closer to 5a and quite run out but the holds are all there.
charley - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/14 with Ange

shouter - 2nd - 22/Jun/14

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Jun/14

helin - 2nd - 26/May/14 with matt

darrencabowabo - 2nd - 21/May/14

Cold, committing. Good climb but warm up first
rurp - Lead O/S - 06/May/14 with bill farmer

Toby Dunn - Solo rpt - 30/Mar/14

eburki1 - 2nd O/S - 29/Mar/14

Great but soft for HVS
Chris Craggs - 2nd - 24/Oct/13 with Gordon, Graham Parkes

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - 05/Oct/13

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/13 with Debbie

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/13 with Debbie

Hidden - Lead - 20/Sep/13

john_ni - 2nd - 20/Sep/13 with James Lismore (PCC)

simon1965 - 2nd - 18/Sep/13 with john nuttall

John Nuttall - Lead - 18/Sep/13 with Simon

dr_botnik - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/13 with Phil Taylor

the power - 2nd - 08/Sep/13 with rob

Neil R - 2nd - 25/Aug/13 with Gill & Ian

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/13

Toby Dunn - Solo - 05/Jul/13

Toby Dunn - Solo - 06/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead - 26/May/13

Could not make the full traverse after struggling to retrieve gear and ended up with feet too low. Had to escape to the ledge on the right. Found the traverse really demanding.
Neil Rodgers (PCC) - 2nd dnf - 25/May/13 with David PCC

Goose4 - Lead O/S - 05/May/13 with Sophie Heron

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Apr/13

tomthecoolperson - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/13 with Andrew

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Apr/13

RichyBOYY - Lead - 07/Apr/13 with Andy Pearson, Rob Caesar

Hidden - Lead dnf - 07/Apr/13

Neil R - 2nd - 08/Sep/12 with Ian

The Bad Cough - 2nd O/S - 04/Sep/12 with John Sealey

jon22 - Lead - 04/Sep/12 with The Bad Cough

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/12

Jake Young - 2nd O/S - 31/Aug/12 with Nick

Nick1812P - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/12 with Jake

Coel Hellier - Lead - 31/Aug/12

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Aug/12

Neil R - 2nd - 28/Jul/12 with Ian

First climb on Stanage with Charlie on lead. Enjoyed this one!
Dale Langan - 2nd O/S - 27/Jul/12 with Charlie Smith

benscarter - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/12 with Jack

jwpil - 2nd O/S - 14/Jul/12 with Ben

John Nuttall - Lead - 26/Jun/12 with Coel

sgl - Lead - 01/Jun/12 with Clare

Really good route with perfect friction (except the first 5 metres of Inverted V) which is very hard to find at this grade on Stanage pop. Harder than expected and more gear than the grade suggested. Definitely 5a and not 4c as in guides in my opinion
martroberts - Lead O/S - 16/May/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Apr/12

Took a well needed first fall of the season when trying to get on the ledge at the end of the traverse (felt pretty 5a to me). Managed on second attempt. The break climbing on the face is quite easy, but confidence inspiring gear was a little hard to find.
treg - Lead dog - 15/Apr/12 with Rachel, Bird

shouter - Lead - 30/Mar/12

joemallia - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/12 with Fidel Sciamanna

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/12

popebenedictus - 2nd O/S - 24/Mar/12 with Adrian Scott

adrianscott - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/12 with Ben Harding

gavinpeach - 2nd O/S - 23/Mar/12 with Andrew Deacon

deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead rpt - 12/Mar/12

Clay C - 2nd O/S - 08/Mar/12 with Stu

Jim Slater - Lead O/S - 26/Feb/12 with Williams

SenDog - 2nd - Jan/12

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Steve Waters, Mynydd - 2nd - 20/Nov/11 with Mike Tempest

Hidden - Lead - 20/Nov/11

Bit wet so was harder than expected, felt tough for 4c.
mike bridges - 2nd O/S - 30/Oct/11 with Robert Bridges

roberto18 - Lead - 30/Oct/11 with Dad (Mike Bridges)

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/11

Cake - 2nd O/S - 02/Oct/11 with Matt

Hidden - TR β - 02/Oct/11

tsjx - 2nd - 01/Oct/11

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Sep/11

gmatthew - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/11

Jonathan Hall - 2nd - 17/Aug/11 with Will Ward

Chris Craggs - 2nd - 14/Aug/11 with Graham Parkes

buxtoncoffeelover - Lead - 29/Jul/11

Found this really hard, gear where I wanted to put my hand and felt really out of balance coming round the corner. The rest was dead easy.
valentinesbabe - 2nd O/S - 22/Jul/11 with Kevin Tithe

Tithe Technique - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/11 with Angela Paul

alex thackway - 2nd - 11/Jul/11 with Ian c

Sidekick - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/11

vanderz - Lead O/S - Jul/11 with patrick dawson

Very nice
victim of mathematics - 2nd O/S - 13/Jun/11 with Dan

Rather annoyed to take a rest on this but put my hand into a deep puddle and didn't much fancy committing to the moves or fully reversing after that.
dpmUK - Lead dog - 13/Jun/11 with victim of mathematics

tracyclimber - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/11

adrianj - 2nd - 05/Jun/11 with Tim Gledhill

fatbuoybazza - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/11 with Mikael

slacky - Lead O/S - 17/May/11 with Nick Taylor

bit exciting when wet!
JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 08/May/11 with Daf

Dafydd Llywelyn - 2nd O/S - 08/May/11 with Jamie

monika paprzycka - 2nd - 04/May/11 with Jeremy Axford

Hidden - Lead - 04/May/11

Smithy Smith - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/11 with Matt Breakwell

matty123 - 2nd O/S - 30/Apr/11 with Mike Smith

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/11

allyrocke - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/11 with Liam Ingram

Liam Ingram - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11 with Ally Rocke

Nigel Bond - 2nd - 06/Apr/11 with Bern Hardman

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/11

David Smith - 2011

mwatson - 2011

Dan Mckinlay - 2011

Hidden - Dec/10

Darrell Read - Lead - 06/Nov/10 with Oliver Mentz

31770 - 2nd O/S - 06/Nov/10 with Darrell Read

Garron - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/10

Tony Holdsworth - 2nd rpt - 05/Oct/10 with Guido

Hidden - 05/Oct/10

derekb - 2nd O/S - 18/Sep/10 with Phil Lee

caradoc - 03/Sep/10 with nick yapp

gingergeorge - 2nd - 04/Aug/10 with Ian ex marine

holters - 04/Aug/10

Oceanic - 21/Jun/10

Hidden - Solo O/S - 18/May/10

mikej - 2nd - 18/May/10 with Rick Naylor

Chris_barr - Lead O/S - 09/May/10 with Mike

Loved the overhanging traverse. Went out to protect it before committing to pulling through. Burned at this stage and took a fall. Went up again an realised I went too far out on the traverse the first time, so made the moves easily. The arete is hard to protect at first, especially if you are a little pumped, but the finish is nice.
matt.jj - Lead dog - 25/Apr/10

Dave Mahon - 2nd - 25/Apr/10 with Matt Jackson

edd rab - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/10 with adrian scott

adrianscott - 2nd O/S - 20/Apr/10 with Edd Rab

Backed off the lead after getting a bit phased and someone threw a top rope pretty much on my head.
bullwinkle - 2nd dog - 21/Mar/10 with John

Rachel Slater - Lead - 02/Mar/10 with Chi Huo Cheng

Chi Cheng - 2nd - 02/Mar/10 with Rachel Stater

Sean Kelly - 2010

drysori - Lead - 2010

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Dec/09

JulesV - Solo - 09/Nov/09

Shaw Brown - 2nd - 17/Oct/09 with Stan

Neil Pacey - 2nd O/S - 17/Oct/09 with Stanley

Hidden - Solo - 18/Sep/09

dan gibson - Solo O/S - 18/Sep/09

belay bunny turned bad - 2nd - 09/Sep/09 with Debbie

delicate traverse out right.
mark4344 - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/09 with Andreas

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/Jul/09

did not think the move to the right was 4c more like 5a
raptorheli - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/09

would have been clean but lost balance on the traverse
jubolo - 2nd dog - 31/May/09 with steve

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Apr/09

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Mar/09

Lou Kennedy - 2nd - 19/Mar/09

Adam Potter - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Mar/09

BRUCESTRAC - 2009

Brown - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/08 with Bridget

bridget143 - 2nd O/S - 17/Sep/08 with Brown

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/08

petemeads - Lead - 15/Aug/08 with Anthony Meads

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 27/Jun/08

Hidden - Lead rpt - 27/Jun/08

sam8oy - 2nd O/S - 15/May/08 with Andy

AndyJBooth - Lead O/S - 14/May/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/May/08

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Apr/08

IanJackson - Solo O/S - Feb/08

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/08

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Hidden - 2008

shameless - Lead - 22/Sep/07 with chimene

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Sep/07

bullwinkle - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/07 with John, Paul

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/07

Si dH - 2nd rpt - 09/Jun/07 with Neil Furniss

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Jun/07

BenJacobs - 2nd - 06/Jun/07 with Simon Shaw

Joe Dove - Lead - 02/Jun/07 with kev

Fantastic traverse - easier than Ellis's eliminate which I had led earlier in the evening. The crux was well protected by 2 Hex's in the main crack and a Camalot placed as far as I could reach along the traverse break before launching across. Good foot holds along the traverse. I managed to get a second Camalot further along the break whilst my left hand was wedged in fantastic hand jam. The traverse finished with a long reach to pull up onto the face. The climb was then a series of step ups on sloping holds with a good big cam halfway up.
Steve Waters, Mynydd - Lead O/S - 23/May/07 with Jo Bowen

4c? Didn't find that move! 5a! Polished start up Inverted V obviously still very easy. Traverse out right couldn't find anything for my feet! Mike didn't put any protection in which I think is possible when moving out right? Would be tricky to place though. My feet let loose and couldn't find anywhere for them so I muscled up for the jug. 4c maybe but wouldn't like to lead it with the protection that was in, would be very scary! Move out right onto the main face and this is where I found it tricky. Trying to find my feet without any handholds, needed an extra 2 inches to get a good grip on a slopper so stuck a foot on and sorta "hopped" onto one, never leading that unless I grow! Rest was easy, loved it!
Reaver2k - 2nd O/S - 20/May/07 with Mike Mortimer

maybe_si - Lead O/S - 04/May/07 with charlie

Phil Latham - TR - May/07

oliverthomp - TR O/S - 26/Apr/07

Hidden - Lead - Apr/07

tlr - 2nd - Apr/07 with Pom

Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 03/Feb/07 with Paul Dewey

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Feb/07

Hidden - 2007

jamesturnbull - 2007

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2007

reg_measures - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/06 with pete kenyon

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/06 with Ben Smith

John Marsland - Lead - 05/Aug/06 with Duncan Irving

baldcoder - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/06 with Little Old Lady

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo O/S - 24/Jun/06

PenJD - Lead O/S - 10/May/06 with Ruth Smitton

shark - Solo - 29/Mar/06

Traverse tricky if you don't stay low. Somewhat overprotected with 11 pieces of gear.
Tobias at Home - Lead O/S - 21/Jan/06 with Alicia

alicia - 2nd - 21/Jan/06 with Tobs

Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/05 with Max

Si dH - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/05 with Liz Kooper

greg101 - Lead - 12/Jul/05 with Matt O'Connor

Gambit - Lead O/S - 04/May/05 with Tim

Stig - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/05 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

dicky79 - 2nd O/S - 2005 with Mike Bottomley

I miss read topo in Stanage guide,thought I was doing Inverted V.Thought it was a bit hard!
Jacob Ram - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/04 with elisa best

Hidden - Lead - 25/Jun/04

Pete Nugent - 2nd - 19/Apr/04 with Lawrence Jordan

Hidden - Lead - 2004

Hidden - Lead - 09/Sep/03

Hidden - Solo O/S - 20/Jun/03

John Marsland - Lead - 05/Apr/03 with Darrell Small

Paz - Lead - Apr/03 with MH

Mark A Humphries - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/02 with dean howard

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/02

Hidden - Solo O/S - 04/Jun/02

Budge - Lead O/S - 27/May/02 with Mike Oates

Hidden - 2nd O/S - May/02

Roget - Solo rpt - 14/Sep/01

Very Exposed
cjphillips - Lead O/S - Sep/01

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Aug/01

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/00

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/00 with Myles Jordan

Hidden - Lead - 2000

tlr - Lead - 2000

Hidden - 2000

Rock Fairy - 2nd - 2000

Rock Fairy - 2nd - 2000

Rock Fairy - 2nd - 2000

The Pylon King - Lead O/S - 2000

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2000

Simon Pearce - 1999

furry - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/97 with Caz

michael burrows - 2nd - 30/Mar/97 with mark ryan

Rich Kirby - 1996

rurp - 1996

Rog Wilko - Lead - Sep/95 with Alan Nuttall

Chris Ellis - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/95 with Martin Veale

Gordon Stainforth - 2nd - 13/Jul/95 with Steve Dean

Rather more direct than necessary - about 5b
Chris the Tall - Lead O/S - May/92 with Dave Gurney

Early morning after bivvy in cave.
Iain Thow - 2nd - 19/Mar/91 with John Irving

Roget - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/90 with chris jones, jim

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Apr/90

Hidden - Lead - 27/Sep/89

surfbish - Lead O/S - Aug/89

Tom V - 14/Jun/89 with Glenn Watson

Hidden - Lead - 1986

Dave Musgrove - 16/Aug/84

stp - Solo O/S - 03/Mar/84

Andy Say - Lead - 29/Jul/81

GeoffG - Lead - 31/Mar/76

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
chris p duck, Hidden, Hidden, richardw87, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, jeffsheard, Chi Cheng, Hidden, tompilgrem, Dave Mason, trekkie, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 149
hard E10 of 51
E10 of 51
easy E10 of 51
hard HVS3 of 51
HVS32 of 51
easy HVS13 of 51
hard VS3 of 51
VS0 of 51
easy VS0 of 51
hard 5a0 of 49
5a1 of 49
easy 5a25 of 49
hard 4c13 of 49
4c8 of 49
easy 4c2 of 49
hard 4b0 of 49
4b0 of 49
easy 4b0 of 49
3 Stars9 of 49
2 Stars36 of 49
1 Star3 of 49
0 Stars1 of 49
Bag of .....0 of 49
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed15 of 239 (6.3%)
Lead112 of 239 (46.9%)
Followed84 of 239 (35.1%)
Toproped3 of 239 (1.3%)
Alt Leads1 of 239 (0.4%)
Unknown24 of 239 (10.0%)

'Climbed'111 of 239 (46.4%)
clean O/S110 of 239 (46.0%)
clean β1 of 239 (0.4%)
clean rpt7 of 239 (2.9%)
dogged5 of 239 (2.1%)
dnf2 of 239 (0.8%)
Unknown3 of 239 (1.3%)