UKC

22m.

Rockfax Description
Head up Inverted V for 5m then traverse right along the lowest break and make unlikely-looking pulls up the bulging arete. Once back in balance, finish up the exposed rounded rib. © Rockfax

FA. Don Morrison 1960s.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Stanage Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Popular , Severe Stanage , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
milanboez 22 Oct, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Wasn't to be. Tried 4 times doing the moves after the traverse. Still not totally sure where you're meant to get up. Committed to the sequence after the mantel, very much on the arete, found nothing and took a big whip as the cam by feet in the shallow slot ripped. Expected it to be over after getting to and standing up over the buldge at the arete but maybe the holds were hiding that day. Still don't know how you're meant to do it lol. Wish gear after the traverse was better too!
βeta?
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βeta: Wasn't to be. Tried 4 times doing the moves after the traverse. Still not totally sure where you're meant to get up. Committed to the sequence after the mantel, very much on the arete, found nothing and took a big whip as the cam by feet in the shallow slot ripped. Expected it to be over after getting to and standing up over the buldge at the arete but maybe the holds were hiding that day. Still don't know how you're meant to do it lol. Wish gear after the traverse was better too!
James Horner 9 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Some difficult gear placements and quite run out at the top
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βeta: Some difficult gear placements and quite run out at the top
JMarkW 27 Jul, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Superb - but a gift at the grade, big arms not really needed.
βeta?
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βeta: Superb - but a gift at the grade, big arms not really needed.
Si dH 28 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Dont know where people get 5a from! Soft for HVS and possibly top-end VS but either way,a very very good route. Almost worth 3 stars.
βeta?
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βeta: Dont know where people get 5a from! Soft for HVS and possibly top-end VS but either way,a very very good route. Almost worth 3 stars.
MNA123 15 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Very nice route indeed, one of my first HVS's last year, can remember my second pooing himself, and he was on the end of the rope!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very nice route indeed, one of my first HVS's last year, can remember my second pooing himself, and he was on the end of the rope!

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 91
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 86
Votes cast 85
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Herford's Route

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Kinder Southern Edges)

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