Rockfax Description
Head up Inverted V for 5m then traverse right along the lowest break and make unlikely-looking pulls up the bulging arete. Once back in balance, finish up the exposed rounded rib - low in the grade. The direct start is the reachy Our Version, E3 6a. © Rockfax

FA. Don Morrison 1960s 1965

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+.

Andy Moles 12/May Solo
David_Gledson 05/May 2nd O/S
with Alan
KeenClimber 22/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Apr 2nd
ColdAndWet 20/Apr Lead
The Reaper 14/Apr 2nd O/S
FlavioL1989 09/Apr Solo O/S
GermanAlex 03/Apr Lead O/S

Completely different from what I expected, getting from Inverted V onto the slab was a walk in the park despite soaking wet holds (thought it was going to be nails), the slab above was definitely not. Poor gear and some very (nice) balancy moves that certainly felt like 5a.

with Robby
eduardo 03/Apr 2nd
Hidden 03/Apr 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Mar Lead O/S
jmills94 20/Mar Lead O/S

really nice route with good exposure. traverse holds are all there and then one pull to get established on the arete, then just the same as hargreves.

with matt
MrFantastic 16/Mar Solo dnf

went too far right at one of the breaks

williap 13/Mar Lead O/S
with Chris Waddle
Neil R 12/Mar Lead
brockers 12/Mar Lead O/S
shaun walby ?/Mar 2nd
with Neil R
Mowglee 14/Feb Lead O/S

Not sure why it's 4c in Rockfax - it's solid 5a! Plenty of gear though.

with Jon
jonhowson 14/Feb 2nd O/S

Great traverse but it's definitely 5a.

JamesWilliams 04/Oct/15 2nd O/S

Cool traverse

Hidden 04/Oct/15 Lead O/S
adamre12 04/Oct/15 Lead
Colin Scotchford 27/Sep/15 2nd
ashtond6 19/Sep/15 Lead O/S


Hidden 08/Aug/15 2nd
nick ferro 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S
ColdAndWet 03/Aug/15 Lead
with Fran Williams
mike8331 31/Jul/15 2nd
Phil West 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Chris Tan
Hidden 27/Jun/15 Lead RP
hodge192 16/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/15 2nd O/S
hervenuttall ?/Jun/15 Solo O/S
John Nuttall 13/May/15 Lead
with Rory
JEP 10/May/15 2nd O/S
with James
Hidden 10/May/15 2nd O/S
Hoyes 10/May/15 Lead O/S
GPN 26/Apr/15 2nd
with Simon, Shaw Brown
Simonfarfaraway 26/Apr/15 2nd
with Shaw
Shaw Brown 26/Apr/15 Lead
with Simon White, George North
Hidden 25/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Neil Rigiani 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Tracy Elliot
joemallia 10/Apr/15 2nd rpt

Mark's lead

with Vic Archer, Mark Sinclair
Hidden 07/Mar/15 2nd
mountaingoatgirl 07/Mar/15 TR

Reachy & rounded top section with low gear.

with John the Pastor, Nick Bean
sdavies141 ??/2015 Lead O/S
benkelsey 02/Nov/14 2nd O/S
with rory wadsworth
Hidden 02/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Rachel Slater 19/Oct/14 Lead rpt
bigdrew 19/Oct/14 2nd O/S
vanderz 18/Oct/14 Lead rpt
Gudge 29/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Nice open climbing - great route!

with Steve Collings
grady_9 24/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Dave Mahon 21/Sep/14 Lead

committing step out, had a bit of a gibber putting a cam into the break at the arete.

with Ben Knudson
Hidden 21/Sep/14 2nd O/S
charley 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Great route. Not sure if I was just reading it wrong or if it was just because it was the last climb of the day but felt closer to 5a and quite run out but the holds are all there.

with Ange
shouter 22/Jun/14 2nd
Hidden 21/Jun/14 2nd
helin 26/May/14 2nd
with matt
darrencabowabo 21/May/14 2nd
rurp 06/May/14 Lead O/S

Cold, committing. Good climb but warm up first

with bill farmer
Toby Dunn 30/Mar/14 Solo rpt
eburki1 29/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
Hidden ?/Dec/13 Solo O/S
Chris Craggs 24/Oct/13 2nd

Great but soft for HVS

with Gordon, Graham Parkes
dannyboy83 05/Oct/13 Solo O/S
Marti999 01/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Debbie
Marti999 01/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Debbie
Hidden 20/Sep/13 Lead
john_ni 20/Sep/13 2nd
simon1965 18/Sep/13 2nd
John Nuttall 18/Sep/13 Lead
with Simon
dr_botnik 08/Sep/13 Lead O/S
the power 08/Sep/13 2nd
with rob
Neil R 25/Aug/13 2nd
with Gill & Ian
tebs 08/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Tim
Toby Dunn 05/Jul/13 Solo
Toby Dunn 06/Jun/13 Solo
Hidden 26/May/13 Lead
Neil Rodgers (PCC) 25/May/13 2nd dnf

Could not make the full traverse after struggling to retrieve gear and ended up with feet too low. Had to escape to the ledge on the right. Found the traverse really demanding.

with David PCC
Goose4 05/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/13 2nd
tomthecoolperson 08/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Andrew
Hidden 07/Apr/13 2nd
RichyBOYY 07/Apr/13 Lead
Hidden 07/Apr/13 Lead dnf
Neil R 08/Sep/12 2nd
with Ian
The Bad Cough 04/Sep/12 2nd O/S
jon22 04/Sep/12 Lead
Hidden ?/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Jake Young 31/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Nick
Nick1812P 31/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Jake
Coel Hellier 31/Aug/12 Lead
Hidden 09/Aug/12 2nd
Neil R 28/Jul/12 2nd
with Ian
Dale Langan 27/Jul/12 2nd O/S

First climb on Stanage with Charlie on lead. Enjoyed this one!

with Charlie Smith
benscarter 17/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Jack
jwpil 14/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with Ben
John Nuttall 26/Jun/12 Lead
with Coel
sgl 01/Jun/12 Lead
with Clare
martroberts 16/May/12 Lead O/S

Really good route with perfect friction (except the first 5 metres of Inverted V) which is very hard to find at this grade on Stanage pop. Harder than expected and more gear than the grade suggested. Definitely 5a and not 4c as in guides in my opinion

Hidden 30/Apr/12 2nd O/S
treg 15/Apr/12 Lead dog

Took a well needed first fall of the season when trying to get on the ledge at the end of the traverse (felt pretty 5a to me). Managed on second attempt. The break climbing on the face is quite easy, but confidence inspiring gear was a little hard to find.

with Rachel, Bird
shouter 30/Mar/12 Lead
joemallia 28/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
popebenedictus 24/Mar/12 2nd O/S
adrianscott 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Mar/12 2nd O/S
deacondeacon 23/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Mar/12 Lead rpt
Clay C 08/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Stu
Jim Slater 26/Feb/12 Lead O/S
SenDog ?/Jan/12 2nd
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Steve Waters, Mynydd 20/Nov/11 2nd
mtempest 20/Nov/11 Lead
with Steve Waters, Mynydd
mike bridges 30/Oct/11 2nd O/S

Bit wet so was harder than expected, felt tough for 4c.

roberto18 30/Oct/11 Lead
with Dad (Mike Bridges)
Hidden 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Cake 02/Oct/11 2nd O/S
with Matt
Hidden 02/Oct/11 TR β
tsjx 01/Oct/11 2nd
Hidden 26/Sep/11 2nd
gmatthew 18/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Jonathan Hall 17/Aug/11 2nd
with Will Ward
Chris Craggs 14/Aug/11 2nd
with Graham Parkes
buxtoncoffeelover 29/Jul/11 Lead
valentinesbabe 22/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Found this really hard, gear where I wanted to put my hand and felt really out of balance coming round the corner. The rest was dead easy.

Tithe Technique 22/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Alex 74 11/Jul/11 2nd
with Ian c
Sidekick 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S
vanderz ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
victim of mathematics 13/Jun/11 2nd O/S

Very nice

with Dan
Hidden 13/Jun/11 Lead dog
tracyclimber 10/Jun/11 Lead O/S
adrianj 05/Jun/11 2nd
fatbuoybazza 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Mikael
Hidden 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/May/11 Lead O/S
JamieSparkes 08/May/11 Lead O/S

bit exciting when wet!

Dafydd Llywelyn 08/May/11 2nd O/S
with Jamie
monika paprzycka 04/May/11 2nd
Hidden 04/May/11 Lead
mksmith35 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S
matty123 30/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S
allyrocke 24/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Liam Ingram 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Nigel Bond 06/Apr/11 2nd
with Bern Hardman
Hidden 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S
uphillnow ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
Hidden ?/Dec/10 -
Darrell Read 06/Nov/10 Lead
31770 06/Nov/10 2nd O/S
Garron 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Tony Holdsworth 05/Oct/10 2nd rpt
with Guido
Hidden 05/Oct/10 -
Hidden 18/Sep/10 2nd O/S
caradoc 03/Sep/10 -
with nick yapp
gingergeorge 04/Aug/10 2nd
holters 04/Aug/10 -
Oceanic 21/Jun/10 -
Hidden 18/May/10 Solo O/S
mikej 18/May/10 2nd
with Rick Naylor
Chris_barr 09/May/10 Lead O/S
with Mike
matt.jj 25/Apr/10 Lead dog

Loved the overhanging traverse. Went out to protect it before committing to pulling through. Burned at this stage and took a fall. Went up again an realised I went too far out on the traverse the first time, so made the moves easily. The arete is hard to protect at first, especially if you are a little pumped, but the finish is nice.

Dave Mahon 25/Apr/10 2nd
edd rab 20/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with adrian scott
adrianscott 20/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Edd Rab
bullwinkle 21/Mar/10 2nd dog

Backed off the lead after getting a bit phased and someone threw a top rope pretty much on my head.

with John
Rachel Slater 02/Mar/10 Lead
Chi Cheng 02/Mar/10 2nd
Sean Kelly ??/2010 -
drysori ??/2010 Lead
Hidden 13/Dec/09 2nd
JulesV 09/Nov/09 Solo
Shaw Brown 17/Oct/09 2nd
with Stan
Neil Pacey 17/Oct/09 2nd O/S
with Stanley
AJ007 18/Sep/09 Solo
dan gibson 18/Sep/09 Solo O/S
belay bunny turned bad 09/Sep/09 2nd
with Debbie
mark4344 04/Jul/09 Lead O/S

delicate traverse out right.

with Andreas
Hidden 04/Jul/09 2nd O/S
raptorheli 01/Jun/09 Lead O/S

did not think the move to the right was 4c more like 5a

jubolo 31/May/09 2nd dog

would have been clean but lost balance on the traverse

with steve
Hidden 25/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Mar/09 2nd
Lou Kennedy 19/Mar/09 2nd
Adam Potter 19/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Mar/09 2nd O/S
BRUCESTRAC ??/2009 -
Brown 18/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Bridget
bridget143 17/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Brown
Hidden 20/Aug/08 Lead O/S
petemeads 15/Aug/08 Lead
with AJMeads
Hidden 27/Jun/08 2nd rpt
Hidden 27/Jun/08 Lead rpt
sam8oy 15/May/08 2nd O/S
with Andy
AndyJBooth 14/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/May/08 2nd O/S
IanJackson ?/Feb/08 Solo O/S
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/08 Lead
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
shameless 22/Sep/07 Lead
with chimene
Hidden 21/Sep/07 2nd
bullwinkle 23/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with John, Paul
Hidden 27/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Si dH 09/Jun/07 2nd rpt
with Neil Furniss
Hidden 08/Jun/07 2nd O/S
BenJacobs 06/Jun/07 2nd
with Simon Shaw
Joe Dove 02/Jun/07 Lead
with kev
Steve Waters, Mynydd 23/May/07 Lead O/S

Fantastic traverse - easier than Ellis's eliminate which I had led earlier in the evening. The crux was well protected by 2 Hex's in the main crack and a Camalot placed as far as I could reach along the traverse break before launching across. Good foot holds along the traverse. I managed to get a second Camalot further along the break whilst my left hand was wedged in fantastic hand jam. The traverse finished with a long reach to pull up onto the face. The climb was then a series of step ups on sloping holds with a good big cam halfway up.

with Jo Bowen
Reaver2k 20/May/07 2nd O/S

4c? Didn't find that move! 5a! Polished start up Inverted V obviously still very easy. Traverse out right couldn't find anything for my feet! Mike didn't put any protection in which I think is possible when moving out right? Would be tricky to place though. My feet let loose and couldn't find anywhere for them so I muscled up for the jug. 4c maybe but wouldn't like to lead it with the protection that was in, would be very scary! Move out right onto the main face and this is where I found it tricky. Trying to find my feet without any handholds, needed an extra 2 inches to get a good grip on a slopper so stuck a foot on and sorta "hopped" onto one, never leading that unless I grow! Rest was easy, loved it!

with Mike Mortimer
maybe_si 04/May/07 Lead O/S
with charlie
Phil Latham ?/May/07 TR
oliverthomp 26/Apr/07 TR O/S
nai ?/Apr/07 Lead
with Tim
tlr ?/Apr/07 2nd
with Pom
Graeme Hammond 03/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Feb/07 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
The old James turnbull ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
reg_measures 16/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with pete kenyon
tobydunford 28/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Ben Smith
John Marsland 05/Aug/06 Lead
baldcoder 05/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Little Old Lady
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 24/Jun/06 Solo O/S
PenJD 10/May/06 Lead O/S
with Ruth Smitton
shark 29/Mar/06 Solo
Tobias at Home 21/Jan/06 Lead O/S

Traverse tricky if you don't stay low. Somewhat overprotected with 11 pieces of gear.

with Alicia
alicia 21/Jan/06 2nd
with Tobs
Owen W-G 14/Oct/05 Lead O/S
with Max
Si dH 27/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Liz Kooper
greg101 12/Jul/05 Lead
with Matt O'Connor
Hidden 12/Jun/05 2nd
Gambit 04/May/05 Lead O/S
with Tim
Stig 19/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
dicky79 ??/2005 2nd O/S
with Mike Bottomley
Jacob Ram 18/Jul/04 Lead O/S

I miss read topo in Stanage guide,thought I was doing Inverted V.Thought it was a bit hard!

with elisa best
Hidden 25/Jun/04 Lead
Pete Nugent 19/Apr/04 2nd
with Lawrence Jordan
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
Hidden 09/Sep/03 Lead
Hidden 20/Jun/03 Solo O/S
John Marsland 05/Apr/03 Lead
with Darrell Small
Paz ?/Apr/03 Lead
with MH
Mark A Humphries 28/Sep/02 Lead O/S
with dean howard
Hidden 24/Jul/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/02 Solo O/S
Budge 27/May/02 Lead O/S
with Mike Oates
Hidden ?/May/02 2nd O/S
Roget 14/Sep/01 Solo rpt
cjphillips ?/Sep/01 Lead O/S

Very Exposed

Hidden 26/Aug/01 2nd
Ropeboy 13/Jun/01 Lead


Hidden 08/Aug/00 Lead O/S
skygodley 04/Jun/00 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 19/Mar/00 Lead O/S
with Myles Jordan
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
tlr ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
Rock Fairy ??/2000 2nd
Rock Fairy ??/2000 2nd
Rock Fairy ??/2000 2nd
Urgles ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
Martin Bennett 12/Sep/99 -
with MT, SF, SW
Simon Pearce ??/1999 -
furry 16/Aug/97 Lead O/S
with Caz
michael burrows 30/Mar/97 2nd
with mark ryan
Rich Kirby ??/1996 -
rurp ??/1996 -
Rog Wilko ?/Sep/95 Lead
with Alan Nuttall
Chris Ellis 05/Aug/95 Lead
with Martin Veale
Gordon Stainforth 13/Jul/95 2nd
with Steve Dean
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
crossleysm ??/1993 Lead


andybirtwistle 25/Jul/92 Solo
Chris the Tall ?/May/92 Lead O/S

Rather more direct than necessary - about 5b

with Dave Gurney
Iain Thow 19/Mar/91 2nd

Early morning after bivvy in cave.

with John Irving
Roget 22/Jul/90 Lead O/S
with chris jones, jim
samt 06/Apr/90 2nd
with Scott Willoughby
Hidden 27/Sep/89 Lead
surfbish ?/Aug/89 Lead O/S
Tom V 14/Jun/89 -
with Glenn Watson
Hidden ??/1986 Lead
Dave Musgrove 16/Aug/84 -
stp 03/Mar/84 Solo O/S
Andy Say 29/Jul/81 Lead
GeoffG 31/Mar/76 Lead
Canyak ??/1973 -
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 60
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 58
Votes cast 57
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set