6439m.
From Pinaya (donkeys, 70Bs) walk towards the Massif, following the rough path until you arrive at a meadow with a river splitting it. There is a miners road just above the meadow, this is the basecamp Puente Roto 2 1/2- 3hrs (4400m). Porters (90Bs) can be arranged from here to go to the high camp.
To get to the high camp, follow the miners road for 15 minutes before heading left for the obvious scree slope that leads to the rock ridge leading down from Pico Sur. Join the ridge and walk up to Nido de Condores (5450m, 4-6hrs, no running water but next to glacier). Alternatively, head straight uphill from Puente Roto for about 100m and find a track that leads to the same scree slope, but at a gentler incline.
From high camp follow the ridge up (65 degrees) to a flat bit (1 1/2 hrs) crossing a few crevasses. Go more directly up to the left of the summit (65 degrees) cross the shoulder and approach the summit ridge from the back left. The guide mentions a false summit, but there is little height difference from one end of the ridge to the other (6439m, 5- 7hrs).
To get to the high camp, follow the miners road for 15 minutes before heading left for the obvious scree slope that leads to the rock ridge leading down from Pico Sur. Join the ridge and walk up to Nido de Condores (5450m, 4-6hrs, no running water but next to glacier). Alternatively, head straight uphill from Puente Roto for about 100m and find a track that leads to the same scree slope, but at a gentler incline.
From high camp follow the ridge up (65 degrees) to a flat bit (1 1/2 hrs) crossing a few crevasses. Go more directly up to the left of the summit (65 degrees) cross the shoulder and approach the summit ridge from the back left. The guide mentions a false summit, but there is little height difference from one end of the ridge to the other (6439m, 5- 7hrs).
Boettger, Fritz and Kuhm 23/Mar/1940.
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Route of Interest
Pequeno Alpamayo
Grade: AD ***
(Condoriri)