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Via Dexter Direct* E2 5c

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Via Dexter Right Hand >>
[Via Dexter Direct, 3 kb]10m. The centre of the wall is technical and protection is poor. Variations to the right are easier though somewhat inferior. © ROCKFAX
Downgraded to E1 in 2007 BMC guide
FA. Tony Moulam 1951

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500.

Photo: Via Dexter Direct © Oceanwall
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 233 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Toproped then went for the solo, been meaning to do it for ages!
stevedude888 - Solo RP - 15/Apr/14 with Simon, Elliot, howie

tprebs - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/14 with Conor Cadden

cjcuni - 2nd O/S - Apr/14 with Thomas Prebble

amccann - Solo O/S - 11/Mar/14

Matthew Ferrier - Solo O/S - 11/Mar/14 with George, Alex McCann

WillDoyle - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/14

ashtond6 - Solo O/S - 01/Mar/14

fjg123 - Mar/14

Hidden - Solo O/S - 02/Feb/14

Hidden - Solo rpt - 02/Feb/14

Chris Hind - Lead O/S - Feb/14 with John

mikealexpayne - 2nd - 25/Nov/13

smokeyj - TR - Nov/13

Hidden - Solo rpt - 05/Oct/13

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - 05/Oct/13

timreynolds - TR - 28/Sep/13

Running_Board - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/13 with Jake Mason

tim exley - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/13 with alice

Top roped after Phil lead Oblique Crack. Relatively easy climbing (5b I reckon), will probably have a go at the lead next time. Is the micro arete to the right in or not?
Merlin - TR O/S - 10/Aug/13 with Phil Chalkley

wish the iron nodules went on forever
GuyVG - Solo O/S - 09/Aug/13 with Rankini and Bubbles

mark20 - Solo O/S - 09/Aug/13

bit dicey for the lead, I would give E2
dr_botnik - 2nd O/S - 30/Jul/13 with deacon

Nice moves on positive (though small) holds. Gear is redundant on this but you could defo jump to the floor from the crux. The 5b moves further up felt much more intimidating. No pads
deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/13

ian storey - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/13 with g rush

ian storey - Lead - 10/Jul/13

kate tarrant - TR - Apr/13

parker5 - Lead - 17/Mar/13 with Dad

TR once then led. Felt easier on the lead.
pastep - TR - 03/Mar/13 with ebf

Simples. It's easy 5c, but solid E2, as you wouldn't want to full from the crux overlap, yet it would be quite easy to do so. Incidentally, it has NOT been downgraded to E1 in the latest guide, still shows as E2.
ebf - Lead - 03/Mar/13

joese7en - Solo O/S - 11/Jan/13

oodie72 - TR O/S - 05/Jan/13 with Ingo Boegeman, Fraser Campbell, Alex Pond

saffy - Lead O/S - 2013

ellis - Sent O/S - 18/Nov/12 with Dave Sykes

There is almost no gear of any use, more likely as a highball problem!
vertigo714 - TR O/S - 21/Oct/12

tomthecoolperson - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/12 with Andrew

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/12

mwatson - Solo O/S - 12/Jun/12

disturbed_one51 - Solo - 10/Jun/12

Jonathan Hall - Solo - 10/Jun/12

SteveM - Solo - 31/Mar/12

matthomas79 - TR - 25/Mar/12 with Tala M

Nice and crimpy, would like to be able to lead one day.
Tala M - TR dog - 25/Mar/12 with Matt Thomas

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/12

klo1981 - TR O/S - 10/Mar/12

riff156 - TR O/S - 10/Mar/12 with Iain Black

scartwr1 - TR dog - 10/Mar/12 with Stew T

Jay C - Solo O/S - 19/Feb/12 with LUMC

hobo_hornby - 2nd β - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

al123 - Solo - 15/Nov/11

Hidden - TR rpt - 12/Nov/11

Hidden - Sent - 23/Oct/11

jon clayton - Lead - 22/Oct/11

al123 - Solo - 24/Aug/11

Didn't find any gear til after the crux where I decided I'd rather use the micro cam placement as a hand hold so effectively a solo all the way.
leon - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/11

alj - 2nd O/S - 13/Aug/11 with leon skeldon

Hidden - Solo rpt - 13/Aug/11

love these moves.
al123 - Solo O/S - 13/Aug/11

Hidden - TR O/S - 04/Aug/11

really fun moves. only E1 5b i think. lead first but only a high cam so almost a solo, then soloed again to get gear out after alexs lead.
al123 - Solo O/S - 03/Aug/11 with alex

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/11

alex thackway - 2nd - 11/Jul/11 with Ian c

riddle - Lead O/S - 27/May/11 with Jakub LMC

Hidden - Lead β - 19/May/11

tuftynick - Solo rpt - 01/May/11

gingerwolf - 2nd O/S - 30/Apr/11

madasten - Solo O/S - 26/Feb/11 with Miquel

David Smith - 2011

John Roberts (JR) - Lead - 2011

Hidden - Dec/10

watched sister + others top rope it first, no point leading as no gear if you stay on route. felt pressing right up to the massive break, nice crux on the 'iron' holds. no mat used
Graeme Hammond - Solo β - 16/Oct/10

Hidden - TR O/S - 16/Oct/10

katiep - TR O/S - 16/Oct/10 with Joe Premier

Hidden - Solo O/S - 15/Oct/10

Took a while to commit to the thin moves past the iron ore type jobby bit, was getting warm! Nice route, totally loses itself higher up though :(
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/10

Clipped a pre placed sling at 4m to protect crux and then climbed rest un-protected due to lack of cams.
specialboy - Lead RP - 25/Sep/10 with Ali Graham

rockcrimper - Lead RP - 25/Sep/10 with Rowan Scott

Climber1806 - 2nd O/S - 05/Sep/10

Maxim2023 - Lead O/S - Sep/10 with Matt Smith

Hidden - Sent - 29/Aug/10

A lot easier than I remembered it to be!
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo rpt - 15/Aug/10

nice positive holds
naffan - Solo O/S - 11/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead - 10/Aug/10

Protection is not just poor, there isn't any.
theotherpetehill - Solo β - 11/Jul/10 with jacobjacob

just took a rope and rack for style points, didn't place any runners!
jacobjacob - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/10

Lev - Lead rpt - 31/May/10 with Emma Ross

Hidden - 2nd - 31/May/10

simeclimb68 - Solo RP - 15/May/10

Adam Potter - 2nd - 15/May/10

With Shunt. Thought that I'd give this a go as had top rope set up. Really nice technical climbing. Couldn't believe that I made it! Nice.
climbingrev - TR O/S - 28/Apr/10

One dob going left, right start was the key.
Zoomer - TR RP - 24/Apr/10 with Mick Asher

Not sure I got the right line for this, it felt very easy, even for a TR.
jeffsheard - TR - 11/Apr/10 with Sarah Davis

Hidden - TR - 11/Apr/10

jon clayton - Lead - 05/Apr/10 with jeremy dodd

Hidden - Solo O/S - Apr/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Mar/10

Very little protection and small footholds!
Will_Maxwell - Lead O/S - 16/Mar/10 with Alex Erskine, Rafael Pena

Probably wouldn't lead it
Cake - 2nd - 2010 with Matt

Sean Kelly - 2010

Ewano - TR - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/09

middle aged slob - TR O/S - 04/Oct/09

Andy S - TR O/S - 25/Sep/09 with Dave H, Luke

Hidden - TR - 07/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/09

vertigo - 2nd β - 22/Aug/09 with Ben Harper

Ben Harper - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/09 with Richard Dagan

Mike W - Solo - 18/Aug/09

willoates - Solo O/S - Aug/09

mint tiny holds
axeman - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/09 with james

PenJD - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/09 with Duz Walker

Brown - Solo O/S - 10/Jul/09 with Solo

wolverine - 21/Jun/09 with jamie Restoric

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/09

melonmike - 2nd O/S - Jun/09 with Jack Metcalfe

nai - Solo O/S - 30/Mar/09

koopa - 2009

BRUCESTRAC - 2009

metal arms - Solo O/S - 24/Dec/08

Got the moves second attempt.
bridget143 - 2nd RP - 07/Dec/08 with Mike Pike

Very steady, positive holds.
Alex Mason - Solo O/S - 07/Nov/08

Dave Warburton - Solo O/S - 28/Oct/08 with Franco Cookson

good route, will go back and lead
gb83 - TR O/S - 05/Oct/08 with I.Killey

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/08

maybe_si - Solo O/S - 21/Jul/08

Franco Cookson OLD - Solo O/S - 16/Jul/08 with some freindly geezers

skittles - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/08 with will johnson

Hidden - TR RP - 11/Jun/08

alaan - Solo O/S - 09/Jun/08

Tez29 - Solo O/S - 22/May/08

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Apr/08

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/08

daveagriff - TR - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - 2008

shark - Solo rpt - 01/Dec/07

Hidden - Solo rpt - 24/Oct/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/07

It was raining, thats my excuse and im sticking to it
Mark Walter - TR dnf - 13/Oct/07 with Andy Foster

Can't remember if I got up this, might have done, not particulaly good anyways :)
benkelsey - 2nd O/S - Oct/07 with Remus Knowles

LankyPaddy - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/07 with Sophie Price

SKippy5 - 2nd - 30/Sep/07 with Ed Northridge

Hidden - Lead - 22/Sep/07

duzinga - TR O/S - 22/Sep/07

rayash - 2nd - 10/Sep/07 with sharpnose

Pythonist - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/07 with Matt CC

Quite suprised to do this - first time for years without a mat
Chris the Tall - Solo rpt - 27/Aug/07

Si01 - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/07 with Tor

bold, hard not great holds, wasn't sure of line.
Ian Broome - Solo dnf - 16/Aug/07

sce8 - 2nd dog - 29/Jun/07 with Gemma Fisher And Dominic Sellers

Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/07 with Steve Elliff and Gemma Fisher

first e2.
andy gravestock - Lead O/S - 07/May/07 with garry

craig matheson - Solo - Apr/07

Hidden - TR O/S - 27/Mar/07

Hidden - Solo O/S - 24/Mar/07

Hidden - 2007

Hidden - 2007

Andrew Barker - Solo O/S - 2007

Dunx - TR - 07/Oct/06

irish paul - Lead - Oct/06 with Various

Hidden - Solo O/S - 17/Sep/06

tumbling wizard - Solo dnf - 08/Jul/06

Hidden - Lead - 03/Jul/06

shark - Solo - 29/Mar/06

Hidden - 2nd - Mar/06

Hidden - Lead rpt - 18/Feb/06

Will_he_fall - Solo O/S - 20/Jan/06

Boy - 2006

Nick Beckett - Lead - 2006 with various

Also the indirect version HVS 5b
Chris the Tall - Solo rpt - 11/Dec/05

shark - Solo rpt - 29/Oct/05

Hidden - TR - 13/Oct/05

Hidden - Solo - 25/Sep/05

shark - Solo O/S - 27/Jun/05 with Seb Grieve

Hidden - Lead β - May/05

reg_measures - Solo O/S - 25/Mar/05

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

Hidden - Solo β - 2005

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo rpt - 09/Oct/04

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo O/S - 01/Sep/04

Hidden - Lead - Sep/04

Lex_2004 - 2nd - Jul/04 with Piers Hemsley

Hidden - Solo - 06/Jun/04

John Marsland - TR - 15/May/04

Hidden - Solo - 26/Oct/03

lukea - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/03 with shannon

lukea - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/03 with niall

Jon Greengrass - Lead O/S - 2002 with Loz

adam carless - TR O/S - 2001

Paz - Lead O/S - Dec/00 with SA Michael, SN

Nick Smith - UKC - TR - Aug/00

Hidden - 2000

Soloed RH line Jul 91. Both had been done previously by "creative seconding"
Chris the Tall - Solo RP - Sep/98

RobSimmo - TR - 25/Jan/98 with Steve Goodens, Jon Berry

kato'sdad - TR - 25/Jan/98 with Rob Simpson

Hidden - Solo - 13/May/97

rob.grafton - Solo - 10/Feb/96 with Bruce

John Southworth - Solo O/S - 16/Jul/95

ChrisJD - Solo - 13/Jun/95

Laramadness - Solo - 17/Sep/94

ste_d - Lead O/S - 12/May/93 with mik

mikedelderfield - Solo O/S - 01/May/93

Tony Little - Solo O/S - 17/Jun/92 with Gavin, Martin, Sam and Simon

whispering nic - Solo - Nov/91

Roget - Solo O/S - 23/Jun/91

mattnuttall - Solo O/S - 22/Jun/91 with Alan Holden

adi bryant - Solo - 29/May/91

NeilGriffiths - 1990

Hidden - Solo - 03/May/89

Andy Say - Solo - 01/Oct/88

Gambit - Solo O/S - 21/Sep/88 with Adam and Phil

Hidden - Solo - 02/Apr/88

steve taylor - Solo - Jul/87 with stumpy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/87

Billg - Solo - 14/Apr/87 with Paul Guttridge

Hidden - Solo O/S - 1987

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1986

Hidden - Lead - 1986

Ena - Solo O/S - Jun/85

Hidden - May/85

Ian Clare - 1985

Hidden - Solo O/S - 05/Aug/84

HVS version
sadams - Solo - 28/Aug/83 with Collin Lennox

Mark Kemball - Solo - 10/Oct/82

Ghastly Rubberfeet - Solo - 1982

Hidden - Solo - 14/Feb/81

Hidden - Solo O/S - Nov/80

Hidden - Solo - 19/Apr/80

again i`m guessing the year.
mike bridges - TR - 1979 with Kevin Bridges

KRB - Solo O/S - 30/Jun/77

Mark Kemball - Solo - 01/May/77

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
MikeStuart26, Si01, Lex_2004

Voting
Total votes cast 124
hard E30 of 43
E30 of 43
easy E31 of 43
hard E22 of 43
E212 of 43
easy E220 of 43
hard E18 of 43
E10 of 43
easy E10 of 43
hard 6a0 of 44
6a0 of 44
easy 6a0 of 44
hard 5c2 of 44
5c24 of 44
easy 5c13 of 44
hard 5b5 of 44
5b0 of 44
easy 5b0 of 44
3 Stars0 of 37
2 Stars12 of 37
1 Star24 of 37
0 Stars1 of 37
Bag of .....0 of 37
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Style of ascent

Soloed91 of 233 (39.1%)
Lead59 of 233 (25.3%)
Followed23 of 233 (9.9%)
Toproped38 of 233 (16.3%)
Bouldered3 of 233 (1.3%)
Alt Leads1 of 233 (0.4%)
Unknown18 of 233 (7.7%)

'Climbed'89 of 233 (38.2%)
clean O/S109 of 233 (46.8%)
clean β7 of 233 (3.0%)
clean rpt14 of 233 (6.0%)
clean RP8 of 233 (3.4%)
dogged3 of 233 (1.3%)
dnf3 of 233 (1.3%)