Rockfax Description
Exhilarating climbing on large holds. The grade is quite close to the HVS/E1 boundary so the arguments will go on. Climb the slab, build a safety net then head across the centre of the roof, first right then back left, with heel-hooks and some brute force. © Rockfax

FA. Paul Grey 1966

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Top 20 Gritstone UKC Wishlist Climbs, Top 25 UKC Wishlist Rock Climbs, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each, Kit Perry's 2013 Mission Statement, Stanage 3 Star HVS's - Eastern Grit, World Graded List, Ultimate E1 ticklist, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes, ICAS Climbing Club, CUMC Ticklist, AMC Uni Ticklist.

legbitme 19/Nov 2nd

Fucking freezing and wet conditions, had to use double heel hook jobby as I'm ruddy short. wicked route, with some definite climbing involved - Great Lead Paddy !!

with Paddy
JoeE 14/Nov Lead RP

Cold on the hands. Go right, not left (very big move to the initial roof but massive jug). Took two falls but got back on and finished it. One of the most bad ass routes ever!

with Jacob
Hidden 01/Nov Lead O/S
Alkis 01/Nov Lead O/S

Had been saving this for far too many years and it went surprisingly easy. It left like E1 while about to get a heel up but climbed like HVS once that was over, I can see why arguments have been going on for this long.

lee1234 01/Nov 2nd O/S
GuyVG 31/Oct Solo rpt

a special moment for me

Hidden 25/Oct TR
brownie mike 19/Oct Lead O/S
Matt Broadhurst 17/Oct Lead O/S

Cool Route

Roberttaylor 14/Oct Lead rpt
Alistair Corbett 12/Oct Solo

Got the heart pumping, great solo!

with Ed
callumbtaylor 11/Oct Lead β

Been waiting a while to do this! Exactly a year on after seconding it

svdie 10/Oct Lead β
Cheethamjd 10/Oct TR RP
GPN 04/Oct Solo
with Annette
gav 04/Oct Lead β

7 1/2 years since my first trip to Stanage and I finally ticked it. Struggled initially to make the reach from the back of the roof (4 or 5 attempts), but once up it flowed well. Seen too many videos/photos/people climbing it to claim the onsight but to be honest the climbing is pretty obvious when you're up there, and not even that hard if you pull hard and move quickly. Bloody intimidating though.

with Chris (KMC), Neil Harvey
mynyddresident 04/Oct Lead

Not a good warm up! Fell off first time ha!

with KP
Tom.Priestley 03/Oct 2nd rpt
MSchobitz 28/Sep Lead β

terrible, terrible style. and on cal's gear. should probably go do it again for a real tick.

Calum Wadsworth 28/Sep Lead O/S

Overly chuffed to get this, its a line that has intimidated me every time I have been to the crag since I have been able to climb HVS!

with micki
AlexBush 26/Sep 2nd β
with Chris
Hidden 20/Sep 2nd dog
HaddRoots 19/Sep Lead G/U
MarkCunnington 13/Sep 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Sep Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Sep 2nd O/S
henry james 07/Sep TR

side rest mentioned in the book out of the over hang was wonderful, leading it next visit

with Dad
Mayaculpa 05/Sep 2nd dnf

Not strong enough

with Max, Alex
Hidden 05/Sep Sent rpt
BHallinan ?/Sep Lead RP
Hamish2322 ?/Sep -
BTphonehome 29/Aug Lead β
with Tony
tmawer 29/Aug 2nd rpt

Followed, after a sad failure of courage and strength....situation rescued by Bram!

with Bram
andyman666999 28/Aug Lead rpt

Dried out after on and off showers and decided to lead it as a treat to myself. It's a funny route, feels serious and committing but the moves are easy. Superb climbing. I would say easy E1 as it feels committing and crucially I have seen some reasonably experienced people come off and slam into the slab, even with cams in the break.

with Greg ellis
mattprince 27/Aug Lead O/S
with Will Graham
Neil 24/Aug 2nd
Carl Watkins 24/Aug Lead O/S
with Neil
Hidden 22/Aug Lead O/S
Tru 16/Aug 2nd β

A lot of fun, encouraged to do more trad now.

Sam Husband 16/Aug Lead β

Finally summoned up the courage! Watched Leo Houlding on it the nigh before on youtube, so very much with beta, but E1 any day in my book.

with Ed
Jmpollard 16/Aug Lead O/S

Been dying to do this for ages, really pleased! Had a sit down on a ledge to save my arms but felt dead good!

with Will Stokes
rajeshwarbisht 16/Aug Lead dog
with Robert
Stroppy 16/Aug 2nd rpt
ned_85 09/Aug Lead
Senna 09/Aug Solo
Kemics 09/Aug Lead

Was on the way back to the car. Offered to lead on already placed gear. Very shameful and had almost move by move beta. So poor style but so glad I did it all the same. Amazing fun route. Definitely will repeat! Compared to other routes. HVS 5b does seem about right.

Hidden 08/Aug 2nd β
EBailey 07/Aug Lead O/S
PeterDawson 05/Aug Lead O/S
shaunhumphreys 02/Aug Lead rpt
with Elliot
m_andersson 01/Aug TR O/S

Great fun, the hard part is actually getting out to the overhang. The overhang itself is quite alright

Richardlake 01/Aug Lead O/S
will_lake 01/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug 2nd β
Theo Mossop ?/Aug Lead
scarmichael 30/Jul Lead RP
with Richard Franklyn
Hidden 29/Jul Lead
Hidden 24/Jul Lead dog
magicmartin 22/Jul TR dog

With 1 rest stop. Amazing route!!

Guy Atkinson 18/Jul Lead β

Lead on some of Toms gear and a bit of advice, put my own cam in whilst hanging from one arm and a leg though.

with Tom Butterworth
FlavioL1989 11/Jul Lead O/S

Now I understand what all the fuss is about. A mini Sloth!

Jamie Everitt 11/Jul Lead dnf
ian d f 10/Jul 2nd rpt
with Mark S, Tor
Hidden 10/Jul Lead rpt
Mike Turner 09/Jul Lead dog
Hidden 09/Jul Lead rpt
theomoore 05/Jul Lead G/U
with Roisin
Hidden 04/Jul Lead G/U
David Staples 04/Jul 2nd β
Hidden 28/Jun Lead β
Ian Hylands 28/Jun Lead dog

Basically ground up, but after cunningly pre-clipping cam on the rope managed to trap it under the rope when I needed it and dropped back onto the slab to sort it out. Trick is to preclip the two cams (red and green dragons) onto the rope. Green went in teeth and red clipped to gear loop via a crab round both bits of sling and twisted to keep cam from getting too close to rope. Traversed left once in second break and was able to get hands to next break - holds still good. Large silver can could be useful to protect once standing.

dobby 200 21/Jun 2nd rpt

Such an amazing route!

with Will
Matt Groom 18/Jun Lead
with Harry Lewis
Sam McCarthy 10/Jun Lead rpt
belay bunny turned bad 09/Jun 2nd
with james
guy757 09/Jun -
Hidden 08/Jun Lead rpt
Hidden 07/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jun Lead RP
chrismadar 04/Jun Lead O/S

A beautifully photogenic climb, getting through the roof was fairly straightforward however the top section felt pretty bold on slopers while pumped.

evans859 04/Jun Lead β

Lead after seeing people climb it before, and with beta on gear placement.

with David Reid, John Beesley
kateharborne 04/Jun 2nd dnf

Lacked the strength to get past the roof!

M_Robinson 03/Jun Lead rpt
Hidden 03/Jun 2nd O/S
lukerathmell 03/Jun Lead dnf
with Rachel Bennett
Ross88 03/Jun 2nd dnf

Got to my heel hooked onto the first break in the over hang but couldn't do the move to reach the next break

with Pete Dollman
Ian Hylands 30/May Lead dnf

Pumped by the time I had it figured out. Jug is just right of crack, red cam just right of it then green cam just right again. Hand trav a little right (left foot in left corner) and heel hook. Hands up to next break (just a little slopy) then heel hook again into the same break. Traverse back left till you can get hands up again then stand and finish. Don't hang about!

with Sumir Bhat
Jack93 30/May Lead G/U
tedswag 30/May 2nd β

Glad I didn't drop it, rope got stuck a couple of meters to the right under the lip.

harry_lewis 29/May Solo rpt
amccann 23/May Solo rpt
Nick1812P 23/May Solo rpt
with speedy
annep11 23/May Lead β
with Clement
Dan Hostford 23/May 2nd dog
jamesturnbull 20/May Lead
Hidden 20/May 2nd rpt
Fraser hill-casey 17/May Lead O/S

Definitely a HVS to my mind.

evenL 17/May 2nd
JoshuaLewis 16/May Lead G/U
steve L 16/May Lead β
Mike Turner 15/May TR
Hidden 14/May Lead rpt
Luke90 13/May Lead G/U
with Liz
John Nuttall 13/May 2nd dog
with Rory
Rharrison 13/May Lead O/S
Hidden 13/May 2nd dnf
hankyc 11/May Lead O/S

super fun!

Andy Peak 1 01/May Lead rpt

5b hip hoist:-)

with Jone nuttal
John Nuttall 01/May 2nd dog

The best tight rope I've ever had.

with Andy Peak 1
hervenuttall ?/May Lead O/S
with Matt W
mattleepianist ?/May 2nd
scott quinn 24/Apr Lead O/S

wild pitch for hvs/e1 good fun!

with commander kelly, Tom Priestley
Tom.Priestley 24/Apr 2nd dog

Missed a crucial hold. Definatly E1

dewiturton 23/Apr 2nd
tom_lewis89 23/Apr 2nd

Hard work!

Neal Jobling 22/Apr 2nd
with Bryan Stevens
markfairbank 19/Apr Lead dnf

Spanked :(

with Anne Gumbley, Harry Middleton
Hidden 18/Apr 2nd rpt
salix 18/Apr Lead

Pumpy placing gear! Great route

with Isaac, Caitlin
Andy Peak 1 17/Apr Lead
with Andrew Deckon
thom_jenkinson 14/Apr 2nd β

Fell initially reaching for the break (need to grow a few inches!) Did it clean after returning to the slab.

Eagertom 14/Apr Lead O/S

Nice to finally have the tick. I've voted it HVS, but not one to go into for your first at the grade! Reach helps.

with Thom Jenkinson
ned_85 13/Apr 2nd
OliverRoss 13/Apr Lead O/S
with Neil Davies, Ryan Baird
elbeanio 12/Apr Lead β
Jackwd 07/Apr Lead β

Big tick!

LJC 07/Apr Lead O/S
with Mark
Ciderslider 07/Apr 2nd rpt
with Luca
Hidden 06/Apr 2nd O/S
gurumed 04/Apr Lead dog

Didn't go far left enough on lip. One fall.

with Craig M, Brian
Brian Pollock 04/Apr 2nd O/S
with Craig, Gordon
Louishmouis ?/Apr Solo O/S
Hidden 25/Mar Lead O/S
grp 22/Mar Lead O/S
James S 22/Mar 2nd
with geoff
fuzzysheep01 21/Mar Lead dnf

Fell at crux twice. Lacking balls today.

with Pierce Ferris
Luke Brooks 19/Mar -
with Delyth
mike8331 18/Mar TR
Sam McCarthy 14/Mar 2nd O/S
bryce.dorin 14/Mar Lead G/U
with Craig, Corty
Bernie L 14/Mar Lead β
pistal10 07/Mar Lead dog

Hard for HVS, more towards E1, hated every minute but glad its in the bag. Big strong moves, beta helped!

Lukem6 27/Feb 2nd rpt
with Elliot
jsmcfarland 17/Feb Lead dnf

Lost my bottle and didn't even get off the starting holds under the roof. Escaped off left and down climbed. Will make sure I have a bit more nerve for the next attempt. Not HVS!!

with Alan
Jack J Keogan 02/Jan Lead dnf
cwildblood 02/Jan Lead dog
TomRiddelsdell ??/2015 Lead dnf

Got to the crux move with freezing cold fingers only to find the ledge slimy and wet. Had to back off but I'm looking forward to having another stab at this when it's dry!

Hidden ??/2015 -
Tim Sparrow ??/2015 -
Felix la shat ??/2015 TR O/S
with Louis
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
phil64 ??/2015 -
Scooter Young ??/2015 Lead
MarcinGobczynski ??/2015 Lead O/S
92stokesw ??/2015 2nd β
dbrooks 30/Dec/14 Lead RP

fell off the crux due to lack of commitment first time but worth it in the end! incredible route!

with shaun
i.fish2000 03/Dec/14 Lead O/S
dprctr 03/Dec/14 2nd rpt

Bollox to this being HVS. Will have to lead it one day but total sandbag at that grade!

Ben Snook ?/Dec/14 Lead G/U

Climbed in sleet and howling wind, with a middling hangover. Lovely lob (due to frozen hands) from the headwall, plopping down nicely on to the slab. Managed it second time. Swung attempts with Jack, pulling the rope each time but not stripping gear due to awful conditions and not insignificant headaches. I guess it scrapes E1 for a bit of boldness above gear which gets progressively further away, but the tech grade was never 5b in my mind. If you are strong and brave, it'll be fine. If you are timid, you'll really struggle; don't hang about!!

with Jack Milton, Dave Hakes
Hidden 30/Nov/14 2nd
the power 24/Nov/14 Lead β

Went well with andys beta a professional career high

with Andy
Andy Peak 1 24/Nov/14 2nd
with phill ukc
tomsimpson89 23/Nov/14 2nd dnf
OERees 09/Nov/14 Lead β
JRJones 09/Nov/14 Lead dog
amccann 05/Nov/14 Lead rpt

After Rory had fallen from the lip twice I pulled the ropes and led it so he could second before it got too dark.

harry_lewis 02/Nov/14 Lead RP
AlistairB 02/Nov/14 Lead O/S

First trad lead in over 2 years, lots of fun.

GuitarGenius92 02/Nov/14 2nd O/S
amccann 02/Nov/14 2nd rpt
manwithacam 02/Nov/14 Lead

Good to do this, was apprehensive but it goes ok

with Alan
fjg123 ?/Nov/14 -
Matthew Glenn 27/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with James Barrell
Jack93 26/Oct/14 Lead dnf
spidermonkey09 26/Oct/14 Lead rpt

Led through Jack's gear after he blew it, last route of the day.

TRFrost 26/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with J. Hulbert
callumbtaylor 26/Oct/14 2nd β


Wizzy 25/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Maybe just e1! Class route!!! Best e1 to date

Hidden 25/Oct/14 Lead dnf
Bron H 25/Oct/14 Lead β
Rachel Slater 19/Oct/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 18/Oct/14 Lead O/S
nick ferro 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Kept toes on until second break, then right heel hook in second break.

Hidden 12/Oct/14 2nd β
knighty 12/Oct/14 Lead dnf

A climb that I aspire to finish one day! What a fantastic move to gain the heel hook! Felt really good at the second break, but the third break is SO far away! I'll come back when I'm better and stronger.

with Alex Hunt
drysori 12/Oct/14 Lead
thom_jenkinson 11/Oct/14 Lead dnf

Very reachy move moving from the cheeseblock. Fell while clipping cam at the lip and clattered into slab.

zcsharp 11/Oct/14 Lead O/S

A lot harder and scarier than i thought it was going to be, but worth it! Also got a lying down rest after the crux.

with Alex Tibbs, Sam Hooper
abtibbs 11/Oct/14 2nd β

I'm glad I wasn't leading this one, it was harder than I was expecting.

with Jamie Roberts, Sam Hooper
whitehouse_rhys 10/Oct/14 Lead rpt
with Will Lord
Pete_Hamlin 10/Oct/14 Lead
Hidden 09/Oct/14 2nd
M_Robinson 05/Oct/14 Lead rpt
dswansonlow 04/Oct/14 2nd rpt
with Ryu
hellboundblr 03/Oct/14 Lead
with Jaric
Dave Cale 03/Oct/14 2nd β
with Tom Jefferies
Hidden 29/Sep/14 Lead
Hidden 28/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/14 Lead dog
R2B 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S


with Charlotte
spragglerocks 27/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Matt
charley 21/Sep/14 2nd rpt
with Ben, Ian
DaveCoates 12/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Palmer 08/Sep/14 2nd
marconi 08/Sep/14 Lead RP
with Chris
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 01/Sep/14 -
Theeni 31/Aug/14 Lead RP
with Joseph
jrccrosby 31/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Ash Sayers 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Senna 30/Aug/14 Lead β
cragsman9000 28/Aug/14 2nd rpt
with Neil
bob_cbr 28/Aug/14 2nd dog
dobby 200 27/Aug/14 Lead β
joedoherty 27/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Martyn Eales
Jake Young 16/Aug/14 2nd rpt
with Ondrea, Alex Banks
Albachoss 16/Aug/14 Lead rpt
DBoothroyd 14/Aug/14 Lead dnf

As with last time, got spanked. Good falls though.

papashango 09/Aug/14 2nd β
with Elliot
Shawty 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S

The long reaches surprised me. Struggled my way through though.

with Conor
kyaizawa 31/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Big tick - finally went for it after countless trips looking at it. Great moves and good gear, but the holds weren't as positive as I'd imagined/heard them to be. Strenuous, but solid jams and holds do eventually arrive!!

with Duncan Livesey
Hidden 31/Jul/14 2nd dnf
whitehouse_rhys 30/Jul/14 2nd rpt
with ben roe
BRoe 30/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Will Lord, whitehouse_rhys
barney800 23/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Long move though roof was exciting. Felt like I could have climbed the subsequent section with more style and gear; holds weren't as positive as I was expecting. Tough onsite and was very glad to get though the crux in one piece!

Matt_C9716 15/Jul/14 2nd O/S

Fantastic route, a lot more possitive holds than I was expecting.

rurp 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Right then left. Better after a nice lie down! Funny

with Alex bacon
DWebs 12/Jul/14 2nd O/S
marshallb93 12/Jul/14 Lead dnf

Not a good last route of the day. Got above the roof then couldn't make headway and took a swinger. Fortunately gear is bomber (horizontal cams) and the fall is into empty space.

Cheese Monkey 09/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Pretty damn boxed at the top.

with Goss
Hidden 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S
robgixer 05/Jul/14 2nd
Ciderslider 05/Jul/14 Lead β

FLASH !!!!!!!! First climb of the day with no warm up - can't claim the onsight as I've watched videos and asked for advice on ukc forums - AWESOME route none the less - still can't believe i got it first time clean !!!

with charley
charley 05/Jul/14 2nd rpt

Great lead by Mark. The moves from the slab felt far less committing with a rope above me this time and fresh arms made pulling past the crux much easier..

with Mark
Hidden 05/Jul/14 2nd dnf
AidanMorris 05/Jul/14 Lead rpt
Ben Briggs ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Abs
NDD 29/Jun/14 Solo
Ly-Cilph 26/Jun/14 Lead dnf
with Trevor W (PCC)
spidermonkey09 13/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Finally! Awesome moves, juggy holds.

craigchomitzki 13/Jun/14 Lead O/S
James12389 13/Jun/14 2nd dog
Jay.Carr 12/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Luxulyan 12/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Tom Murrell
benkelsey 06/Jun/14 2nd rpt

Slightly sketchy lead from Jake but good for him to finally get on it.

JakeWShaw 06/Jun/14 Lead β

Seen lots of people do it so good to finally get on it. Crux felt ok but nearly messed up the top, overly pumped as usual!

Tithe Technique 03/Jun/14 2nd dog
valentinesbabe 03/Jun/14 2nd dnf

Excellent climb...well the bit that I did was. The slab is straightforward though very polished. The move to the first break is not straightforward for shorties unless you have strong fingers and can dyno. I haven't but managed to work out the move. First time I didn't latch it right and slipped off. A bit more finesse second time gained me the break, got the heelhook on but couldn't pull up so hooked the second foot up as well and tried to tuck my toe in so I could really pull with my leg but my foot slipped out and I couldn't hang on. Decided to leave it and let Kev have a go before trying again. Had nothing left in me on the next attempt so will have to save it for another day :-) I won't vote on it until I've completed the climb.

charley 03/Jun/14 Lead RP

I've been putting this off for years and finally made the decision to get on it this trip. Probably should of tried it on the 1st and not 3rd day as arms were knackered even on the slab & had no reserves but today was the day, wasn't going to back out again, had to get on it. Had to wait for the rain to stop & the rock to dry but I was good to go. Took some swings as had nothing left to do the final pull up but got it clean, ground-up after a long rest. Great to finally have done it, felt brilliant pulling over the roof although saying that I've done many, much nicer HVS routes then FBD but none with the same reputation...

with Ange, Kev
Lukem6 01/Jun/14 Lead RP

took a couple of tries

Hidden 01/Jun/14 Lead G/U
Tzoo 01/Jun/14 2nd

Nutty warm up climb with Liam and phil graet route

neitsroth ?/Jun/14 Lead β

first real trad

with Sebastian Lopez, John Gallon
cdpuk 30/May/14 Lead dnf

Faffed with gear too long. Got up to the heel hook but ran out of steam. Abbed down to retrieve gear. Next time...

Hidden 25/May/14 Lead
mrteale 18/May/14 Lead rpt
MrBIond 18/May/14 2nd
Hidden 17/May/14 Lead dnf
paulpitcher 16/May/14 Lead O/S
with Matt Caton
Hidden 15/May/14 2nd
ralphio 14/May/14 2nd dog

Gutted i dogged this. Will climb it clean next time now i know where the holds are.

with Andrew
Misha 14/May/14 Lead O/S

I went for the obvious heel hook with the right foot followed by rocking onto it and getting a slightly painful kneebar in, then groping around on slopers above before eventually reaching better holds and standing up. Eszter said she had never done or seen anyone doing it that way. Think you're meant to do a leftwards shuffle with lots of heel hook action, must try that next time. The way I did it was perhaps more graceful but closer to E2 than the HVS some claim! I'll settle for E1 ;-)

with Eszter
David_Gledson 06/May/14 Lead O/S

Bloody fantastic, wahoo!! Gear wise, number 2 camolot and wires below the roof, then two number one camalots for the rest.

with Alan
Sardien 03/May/14 2nd O/S


Hidden 03/May/14 TR O/S
Jam_sandwich 29/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Feels like E1 but I have have missed some gear on the left after the crux.

Derek Furze 23/Apr/14 2nd
with Paul Mitchell
phildawson 23/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Joe.Elliott1 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S
oread 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
dr_botnik 15/Apr/14 Lead

got it clean 3rd go. its a toughie, but a goodie.

tprebs 15/Apr/14 2nd rpt
with Conor Cadden
mop449 13/Apr/14 Lead β
with Sam Carr
Hidden 12/Apr/14 2nd rpt
woody99i 11/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Stig 11/Apr/14 Lead rpt
with Mischa and Coel
Andy Peak 1 11/Apr/14 Lead

in the rain and gale force wind:-)

MarkRoe 11/Apr/14 2nd rpt
funsized 09/Apr/14 Solo rpt

Lifetime climbing ambition complete!

with Ben Corby
GeorgeClimbs 09/Apr/14 Lead β

such an awesome route, First ever E1

Hidden 08/Apr/14 2nd dnf
Petar Samkov 08/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Apr/14 Lead RP
dtbrad 05/Apr/14 TR dnf

Need to go back to complete

cjcuni ?/Apr/14 Lead β

Won't soon forget it, glad my belayer reminded me to extend the red cam on the overhang.

Hidden 29/Mar/14 2nd
dom94 29/Mar/14 Lead RP

Ended up pumped and hanging from the groove first go and had to be lowered but got it second time

with Calum H
climberchristy 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Wow! Utterly brilliant route. Far less intimidating than it looks from below.

with Ben Cole
James Oakes 19/Mar/14 2nd rpt
tim newton 19/Mar/14 Lead β
Rob N 16/Mar/14 2nd
M_Robinson 12/Mar/14 2nd β
noemie5438 08/Mar/14 2nd dog
with Alex Corkett
amccann 07/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Matthew Ferrier 07/Mar/14 2nd
Pete Dangerous 01/Mar/14 2nd O/S
with lewiz
CallumSmith ?/Mar/14 Lead O/S
fjg123 ?/Mar/14 -
Dogwood ?/Mar/14 2nd β

Didn't expect to climb it, held on with pure fear through the roof and made the top. Great fun!

Martin McKenna - UKC 23/Feb/14 Lead G/U

First grit route. Blew the on-sight as I jumped not warmed up, although today getting warm was almost impossible. Almost blown off by the wind on the top out.

with Richard Able
Hidden 22/Feb/14 Lead RP
s.thursz 22/Feb/14 2nd
jcw ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
David Sherratt ??/2014 Lead O/S
waynekinrade ??/2014 Lead
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
mileshill540 ??/2014 Lead
Hidden ??/2014 Lead
dynoseb ??/2014 Lead RP

First E1 YEA!

shaunhumphreys 19/Dec/13 Lead G/U

felt abit hungover but still fancied giving this a try! fell of first go, so came down and got it second! pretty cold day!

JamesTurnbull97 15/Dec/13 Lead O/S

Cold and blowing a gale, felt a bit exposed on the lip

theloringharvey 08/Dec/13 Lead O/S
with Katherine Durtnell
bantamdave 01/Dec/13 2nd dnf

Failed on this but made two moves more than Mr Trotter. Belting cock !

with Tony, Neil
Hidden 01/Dec/13 Lead β
ashtond6 01/Dec/13 2nd rpt

great fun in the dark, much more fun to second this time!

Hidden 23/Nov/13 Lead
lanc23 23/Nov/13 Lead dnf
lanc23 23/Nov/13 2nd dnf
Hidden 10/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Anna Hammond 09/Nov/13 2nd O/S

Phil Lead this route twice, once for Luke, which i then belayed from the top while Luke 2nd so Phil could watch. He then lead again for me and I followed up, however Mark belayed me up so again Phil could watch. Great route, want to try leading it as I onsighted with a fair amount of ease! Looking forwards to the photos!

with Phil Whitehead, Luke Burnley, Mark Kirvan
Nick1812P 07/Nov/13 2nd rpt

in trainers.

Hidden 24/Oct/13 Lead RP
matt1024 20/Oct/13 2nd

Next time!

with Lee H
MartinPL 20/Oct/13 Lead O/S
elyben 20/Oct/13 Lead
stevorobs3 20/Oct/13 2nd O/S
DaveMo 06/Oct/13 Lead dnf

intimidating. nervous when climbing into the crux. very pumped finding gear in the high break from heel hook. couldn't fight through the crux - too tired.

with Joe Chambers, Jan
RKirke 05/Oct/13 2nd β
RKirke 05/Oct/13 Lead rpt
Stroppy 05/Oct/13 Lead RP
with Gramps
mikespooner 05/Oct/13 Lead β
Hidden 01/Oct/13 TR dnf
leeoftroy ?/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Finally found the courage!

francois 28/Sep/13 Lead RP

Took me a few goes to get the sequence right.

with Ben
Andy Peak 1 25/Sep/13 Lead
with Eszter
Freshprintce 23/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Jake Mason
Daniel Heath 23/Sep/13 Solo rpt

Nice gauge to do this every year or so, feels a tiny bit easier each time.

Andrew Wilson 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S
MichaelGallimore 15/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Screamed my way up this with poor form. Tried 4 different sized cams before I found the right one on the roof break. Pumped. What a brute of a climb!

with Jared Kitchen
gavinpeach 14/Sep/13 2nd rpt
with Max Pendleton
MD 10/Sep/13 Lead dnf
with Jo
Hidden 08/Sep/13 2nd dnf
clukins 08/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Alice Browne
benlatham07 07/Sep/13 Lead rpt
TomRiddelsdell ?/Sep/13 2nd β
pymn nice but dim ?/Sep/13 2nd β

First taste of a E2 climbing. Fresh back from Font climbing with Ben and Rhys

Hidden 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
mark20 29/Aug/13 Solo rpt
admackie 29/Aug/13 -

with deacon

JFORDE 19/Aug/13 Lead RP
with Annette
Hidden 16/Aug/13 TR
Tangerine_Kingdom 14/Aug/13 Solo O/S

An onsight is a wonderful thing, however onsight soloing even more so! A true lifetime tick! What a fantastic mind and body blowing experience, absolutely phenomenal! Pipped it just as the rain was coming in

with Harry Stuart-Smith
tim exley 13/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Fun route. Reading others comments got me nervous. Relax and enjoy being horizontal

with alice
alicethwaites 13/Aug/13 2nd
stuart34 12/Aug/13 2nd
with Kim Ladiges
Merlin 10/Aug/13 Lead dog

I can see myself getting addicted to this route. E1 I reckon for those without beta, whereas I knew which sized cams fitted the break, and had seen the sequence on a youtube video, therefore HVS for me. Seemed much easier to gain the heel hook before placing the cams. Fantastic climbing, really lived up to its expectation.

with Polly Withers, Phil Chalkley
Hidden 08/Aug/13 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
dr_botnik 30/Jul/13 2nd dog

pumped out trying to retrieve an in-situ cam, glad I backed off the lead on this previously as the moves are big and sustained.

with deacon
ashtond6 29/Jul/13 Lead rpt

no problem if you know the sequence, quite hard till you do. Great route!!!

alp79 29/Jul/13 2nd

On second-couldn't get to the rail so fell off before the best moves. Took a nice big swing into nothing, second of the weekend. Will come back and do it again properly.

gavinpeach 27/Jul/13 Lead rpt

I'm becoming addicted to this climb!

Hidden 27/Jul/13 Lead
The Norris 27/Jul/13 2nd dnf

couldnt manage the crux, very sweaty hands didnt help!

with Gavin
Andy Peak 1 26/Jul/13 Lead

One pice of gear when had my heal hook on!

with Tom Martin
gavinpeach 26/Jul/13 2nd rpt
pbuggy91 26/Jul/13 Lead dnf
Andy Peak 1 20/Jul/13 Lead
with Andrew Deckon
gavinpeach 19/Jul/13 Lead RP

Finally, one of my all time most wanted wishlist climbs done on lead. Seconded Deacon who then encouraged me to go for it on lead. Now the intimidation factor has been overcome, it's one to go back to again and again! Amazing!

gavinpeach 19/Jul/13 2nd rpt
Andy Peak 1 17/Jul/13 2nd

In trainers

with Andrew Deckon
Hidden 16/Jul/13 Lead O/S
yulquen 14/Jul/13 TR
Albachoss 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S


with Ben
Tim Hamlet 10/Jul/13 Lead
with Pete Nellis
Hidden 10/Jul/13 2nd
Graham Westbrook 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Fantastic climb! I thought I would be queuing up for it, but didn't see anyone else on it all day! Maybe too hot!

mjackson 06/Jul/13 2nd
BJP001 06/Jul/13 Lead dnf

Climbed the roof then rolled off first ledge trying to rest! Too tired for a 2nd attempt.

Toby Dunn 05/Jul/13 Solo
freudy_love 03/Jul/13 2nd rpt
with Pete Macpherson
Hidden 26/Jun/13 Lead dnf
Reedymc 22/Jun/13 Lead dog

found the overhanging move hard to pull up and get the next hold mainly just mind games took me three attempts to finally commit to the next move over the roof I could of done it first go if it wasnt for my gear fear with a suspect cam :)

with Jake Galley
Hinchrn 14/Jun/13 Lead dnf
TDSvejstrup 10/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Did this as a warm up, I was warm after...

mrteale 09/Jun/13 Lead dnf

Looking forward to getting back on this!

Toby Dunn 06/Jun/13 Solo
felixizzy 06/Jun/13 Lead RP
Chi Cheng 06/Jun/13 Lead rpt

Led it this time as Natalya wanted to try it. Was a little too warm to Rope Solo; so placed gear and almost got pumped out. Should of just soloed it.

Mike Turner 04/Jun/13 TR β
with Bob Butcher
mic_b 01/Jun/13 Lead β
with Heidi
Chris Redding 01/Jun/13 Lead rpt

Last route of the day and I got it this time. Manned up a bit more and cut loose. Managed to hold it together to the top :)

with Matt Lally
hipyhop 01/Jun/13 Lead dnf
with Cherelle
MoWalker3 01/Jun/13 -
with Cormac
alooker ?/Jun/13 Lead rpt

Second time, still felt the stiff pull though. Upper section felt more delicate in the warm, strangely more so than when it was icy...

with Alex, Ed
Hidden ?/Jun/13 Lead dog
Pippa 26/May/13 2nd
mountain_jay 26/May/13 Lead
Nick205228 25/May/13 Lead O/S
with Louis Diaz
lukehodson 25/May/13 Lead O/S
ianjfsutcliffe 17/May/13 Lead rpt
with George
Hidden 07/May/13 Lead dnf
Voltemands 04/May/13 2nd dnf

Perhaps a bit optimistic for the end of the day. Poor Carly gave it her best but simply to tired and long a reach.

with Ben Walton, Carlene HIll
adamwesthead 03/May/13 Lead rpt

Didn't bother to stop to place the cam in the break. Just pulled through. Harder than I expected

with Hoult
Davebryant 02/May/13 Lead O/S
with Alex Taylor
Hidden 30/Apr/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 30/Apr/13 2nd rpt
Dean177 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S
henry peter jenkins 23/Apr/13 AltLd

dale went up twice and came down from the crux. i then went up.

with dale clover
benkelsey 23/Apr/13 Lead rpt

was contemplating the solo all day, but it got too dark/cold. Jem made a total mess including ripping gear and (screaming) hitting slab. thought he needed to be shown how it was done. Felt a lot harder than last time though!! still HVS.

with Shaun Humphreys
TonyB 21/Apr/13 Lead
with Wayne
BRoe 21/Apr/13 2nd rpt

To get robs gear

with Rob L
kabutsu 21/Apr/13 Lead
ClemB 21/Apr/13 2nd
gcandlin 20/Apr/13 Lead β

intimidating but easy enough once you commit

with terry lines
JimboWizbo 20/Apr/13 Lead rpt

Before The Tippler, got through it a bit quicker than last time! Also seconded later that day for our new Geordie friends.

with Beth
Hidden 20/Apr/13 2nd dnf
gavinpeach 14/Apr/13 TR dog

Reminder: Left hand on spike. Left foot on 2nd block. Right foot on wall. Right hand as far across as possible. Heel hook. Shuffle left. Next heel hook. Shuffle left.

with Kasia
Hidden 14/Apr/13 TR dog
David Kay 06/Apr/13 Lead dog
Hidden 06/Apr/13 2nd
jameslam 05/Apr/13 Lead RP
with Matt A
Mike Hood 03/Apr/13 Lead
with jordan
Alex Munnery 03/Apr/13 Lead β
with Toby Farnworth
ethan109 02/Apr/13 Lead dog

Climbed from ground but with significant amount of gear placed from previous attempts

Hidden 31/Mar/13 Lead rpt
tprebs 29/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Climbed in the snow. after wandering round for a few hours looking for something to do on Stanage I jumped on this very cold. couldn't feel my hands or feet and cut loose swinging round on one hand. recovered and bruted up the rest with bloody legs. Awesome!

with Rónán Kernan
RKernan 29/Mar/13 2nd rpt
with Tom Prebble
Hidden 06/Mar/13 -
Chi Cheng 05/Mar/13 Solo rpt

Dan came off and ripped a cam and could not finish it. So soloed up to his gear to clean it and then I decided to solo it as I felt it was easier then to down climb the slab.

wolf.leeb 02/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Joyfull jug hauling..

with Dom, jo
Tom Peeper 02/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Leon
Harry Holmes 02/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Joanna
bigredsquirrel 02/Mar/13 2nd dog
with Edward Hutchings
dainbramaged999 02/Mar/13 2nd dog
with Edward Hutchings
Morgan P 02/Mar/13 2nd β
ERH ?/Mar/13 Lead
Hidden ?/Mar/13 2nd dog
alooker ?/Mar/13 Lead

In the heavy snow, took a rag to clean shoes after the snowy slab, top section was soaking wet which was interesting. Fell on 'the move' pulled ropes then figured I was too far right, felt much easier.

DanOsb 28/Feb/13 Lead

came yesterday and failed, came back today and succeeded. nice.

Bertbee 27/Feb/13 Lead β

Finally! My long sought after first E1, on the first trad outing of the year! :) It's an E1 in my book, even if others better qualified than me claim it's soft for the grade. A very aesthetically intimidating climb with a big fear factor, along with 'that cam' being a blind placement, without any real option to back off once you've committed. The climbing itself - if you love heel hooks - is not too challenging.

with Ben
nathanlee 17/Feb/13 Solo O/S
with Dom Lee
dr_botnik 16/Feb/13 Lead dnf


arrang 08/Feb/13 Lead β
jcooper8 08/Feb/13 2nd dog
Ricky Rocks 05/Jan/13 Lead O/S

Have been wanting to climb this route for ages. Brilliant climb. great holds, cold day. Got pretty pumped placing the Cams.

Hidden ??/2013 Lead dnf
bclifton ??/2013 Lead
OliverIF ??/2013 Lead O/S
Andy Peak 1 ??/2013 -
with Tom Martin
AlanPedrick ??/2013 -
saffy ??/2013 Lead O/S
harry_lewis ??/2013 Lead dog
with Jed
jedster1111 ??/2013 2nd
jacobjacob 16/Dec/12 Lead rpt
tomwheeler 02/Dec/12 Lead
JimboWizbo 18/Nov/12 Lead β

Finally got it done. Very cold today, spent a long time under the roof warming hands up under the armpits. And again after the roof as they were very numb. Felt like E1 but on a warm day I can believe HVS. IMO E1 if you're short.

with Ian, Beth
Hidden 18/Nov/12 2nd dnf
Hidden 18/Nov/12 2nd
MartinWilliams87 11/Nov/12 Lead dog
Hidden 10/Nov/12 2nd
Michael Allday 09/Nov/12 Lead O/S
Chris Redding 04/Nov/12 Lead dnf

Never made it to the lip :( Will have to return with new Beta

with Sam Henderson
kcollender 03/Nov/12 2nd O/S
tex.ryan 27/Oct/12 TR rpt
with jib jib
Benn A 26/Oct/12 TR
Jay C 21/Oct/12 Lead

Retro onsight

with Chris M
Hidden 21/Oct/12 Lead O/S
cmarsden5 21/Oct/12 -
Hidden 21/Oct/12 TR O/S
climbingsheep 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S
tombradshaw123 20/Oct/12 TR dog


whitehouse_rhys 14/Oct/12 2nd rpt
with heather osborn, Alex Law
Jackwd 14/Oct/12 Lead dnf

Fell off, just didn't have the strength probably not helped by a day at Raven Tor the day before. Thanks to the random guy who filmed me. Not.

Stefan_Morris 12/Oct/12 Lead O/S
tommytuffa 09/Oct/12 Lead rpt
with Libby
stratandrew 07/Oct/12 2nd RP

Not technically as hard as it looks but you need wheelbarrows for your balls to lead it. And strong arms. And good technique.

gw3285 07/Oct/12 Lead
Patrick Hill 07/Oct/12 Lead O/S
pOi 07/Oct/12 2nd O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 06/Oct/12 Lead rpt
with Greg Cunningham
onlyfoddington 06/Oct/12 2nd RP

Just hope I can remember how I did this for a future lead

with James H
thetradlad 06/Oct/12 2nd O/S
Kayan 06/Oct/12 Lead
Harry Thorpe 06/Oct/12 Lead O/S


luke384 06/Oct/12 Lead β
with Ryan mcconnell
Peter Reynolds 06/Oct/12 Lead dnf
lanky and weak ?/Oct/12 Lead O/S
cal91 ?/Oct/12 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Oct/12 TR β
Dingchav ?/Oct/12 TR
Joe Strutt ?/Oct/12 TR
Sam Simpson 27/Sep/12 2nd RP
ianstevens 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Sep/12 Solo
Mr Wild 15/Sep/12 2nd
Dibdawg 10/Sep/12 Solo O/S
Daniel Heath 07/Sep/12 Solo rpt

Amazing with the whole crag to myself.

Chi Cheng 04/Sep/12 Solo rpt

Was having a good day, so gave it a try on the way past.

willsm11 02/Sep/12 Lead β
with Twisty
islandlynx 02/Sep/12 2nd

Top roped to rescue Matts gear after a valient attempt

Twisty 02/Sep/12 2nd rpt
dh7892 01/Sep/12 2nd dnf

Partner got the cam in just over the roof then couldn't go further. I got the next couple of moves then got pumped trying to get a cam in (should have just pushed on rather than following advice from some duff beta). Gutted not to top out. Not hard, just got to get the moves right. Great route. Will be back.

Matt250 01/Sep/12 Lead dnf
Jake Young 28/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Josh
barni 26/Aug/12 TR rpt
Pete Rigby 26/Aug/12 Lead β
with Kelli Roberts
Hidden 26/Aug/12 Lead β
kelliroberts3 26/Aug/12 2nd

Tried leading first but didn't have enough power to get over the roof on lead attempt after getting pumped having to work out the moves to reach the first jug of the overhang!!

mtempest 16/Aug/12 2nd
Steve Waters, Mynydd 16/Aug/12 Lead dog

Everything went to plan to begin with - I placed 2 good cams in the break. However, I lost my feet coming back down to the rest and after a few attempts to get my feet back onto the rock I was marooned and had to drop onto the rope. Shame. Next time I will place just 1 cam on the way through and then will check/adjust it whislt heel hooking and hanging from the top of the roof which turned out to be a decent hold. The rest of the route went fine. 5*

Qisheng Xie 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Ben Aldersey
Hidden 07/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Hoyes 07/Aug/12 Lead dog

Went up, placed the cam in the break, got pumped, came down, then climbed clean. A right palava!

with Simon C
shouter 04/Aug/12 Lead
Hidden 01/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Adamski1986 ?/Aug/12 2nd dnf
with Richard Gage
Mikewilson119 ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Zac Macro
Gudge ?/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Dave Sheratt
JanBella 26/Jul/12 TR RP
with matt
JanBella 26/Jul/12 Lead dnf

took few falls from the second lip, then climbed it clean on the top rope

with matt
Hidden 22/Jul/12 Lead
salonikaboulder 22/Jul/12 Lead RP
Hidden 21/Jul/12 2nd dog
Hidden 21/Jul/12 2nd
mr_nsglover 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Not E1, HVS at most. Excellent fun moves though, defo worth the time.

with Ross Black
climb the peak 15/Jul/12 2nd O/S
JamesRich 12/Jul/12 2nd dog
Quarryboy 12/Jul/12 Lead rpt

Second time lucky. First one in our group to try this initially and like everyone else fell off on the first attempt, the difficulty is placing the gear and working out where you need to go very fast because hanging around for any length of time at all gets you hideously pumped. First fall on grit and a rather spectacular one, got up to the second of the two breaks stuffed a cam in the essential slot which prevents you from smashing into the slab below then traversed along the break as you are supposed to looking for more holds, went too far and got too pumped to verse and correct my error and dropped off, luckily the cam held and I just plopped onto it. Just goes to show how incredibly good cams are as a medium of protection on gritstone.

JamesRich 11/Jul/12 Lead dnf

Had a go but didn't get close

Stanners 11/Jul/12 Lead RP

WOW. What a climb. Sadly the onsight wasn't for me, fell onto cams first go. Pleased to get second go though which required a lot of will power!

with James Rich, Martin Stanfield, Jack Bradbrook
Stanley 11/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with James Rich, Stanners, Jack Bradbrook
Hidden 01/Jul/12 2nd
Rachel Slater 30/Jun/12 2nd rpt

in trainers.

with Olli Crudge, Andrea Morgan
Olli-C 30/Jun/12 Lead
with Andrea, Rachel Slater
Haydn Jones 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with deacon, duncan
mattyratty 13/Jun/12 -

Matt attempted this but needs to return another day to beat it!

with Matthew Barber
Hidden 12/Jun/12 Lead
Tim Bateman 09/Jun/12 TR
with Nick Beale
salonikaboulder 05/Jun/12 2nd O/S


BRoe 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Perfect conditions, no way is this E1 or HVS, more like VS?

alexjz 04/Jun/12 Lead RP

amazing climb. Will have to do it again!

with Matt Hilton-Webb
whitehouse_rhys 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S

really nice climb but I felt it was over graded, it didn't feel HVS

brynmays 01/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Alex Taylor
esther ?/Jun/12 Lead
Gareth Bowen 29/May/12 Lead O/S
with Rachel Sutton
climb the peak 26/May/12 Lead O/S

wow, what a route, so happy I got it :)

MarkRoe 26/May/12 Lead O/S
pabbage 25/May/12 Lead
Nigel Bond 21/May/12 TR
with Bern Hardman
seanlikeskites 20/May/12 Lead RP
Hidden 20/May/12 2nd dnf
Nick Russell 20/May/12 Lead O/S

After a grey start to the day I topped out of this in the sun to see the blue sky coming in from beyond the edge - brilliant!

with Noel
Joris.Roulleau 20/May/12 Lead dog

hard to get to the second break

with Ben Simpkins
dprctr 19/May/12 Lead dnf

Fail. Holds not as good as suggested and very pumpy. Forearms gave in and I could not go any further.

seanlikeskites 06/May/12 Lead dog
gmatthew 05/May/12 Lead O/S
Bonkers Dog 02/May/12 Lead O/S

wow, spectacular route!

with Ali
Scotsken 28/Apr/12 2nd
Dafydd Llywelyn 22/Apr/12 Lead rpt
ERH 22/Apr/12 2nd
Simon_Letman 21/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with olly
Hidden 21/Apr/12 2nd rpt
darlolad 21/Apr/12 2nd
gavinpeach 16/Apr/12 2nd dog
deacondeacon 16/Apr/12 Lead O/S
pie_eater_pete 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Niall, Dave Sargent
Macleod 15/Apr/12 Lead dnf
with Mehmet
radioshed 14/Apr/12 2nd O/S
with dave s
David Stevens 14/Apr/12 Lead O/S
wi11 14/Apr/12 TR rpt
with Ant JW
Hidden 14/Apr/12 TR rpt
seanlikeskites 02/Apr/12 Lead dnf
Alex.M-M. 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Apr/12 2nd dog
Dan0Me 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Boob, Daniel Smedley, Chris Hill
mksmith35 31/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Tom Kirby
gb05 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
timmyhobby 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S


Daniel Heath 24/Mar/12 Solo rpt

Barefoot. Always considered it, but finally decided I'd led it enough times to justify the solo. Had a lot of adrenaline trying to relax in the lie-down rest above the roof.

CharlieMack 24/Mar/12 2nd rpt
with Bryan Main
Daniel Heath 22/Mar/12 Lead rpt

Barefoot again to get the gear down. Did the reach static this time, which felt much better than before

benkelsey 20/Mar/12 Lead O/S

been on the list since the first time I came to stanage. felt nervous about the onsight after all that time. glad to have finally got it but it really is so easy.

with JRae
JRae 20/Mar/12 2nd
lewiz 18/Mar/12 Lead β

Horrific mess but clean first time! Saw somebody else do a move on TR so can't claim the OS :/

samwillo 17/Mar/12 Lead
with Lairig Climbing Club
Hidden 17/Mar/12 2nd
bwestwood 12/Mar/12 Lead
Ryan M Wilson 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
kiks 11/Mar/12 Lead rpt
67hours 10/Mar/12 2nd

Fell off. Next time I'll warm up first.

Andy Peak 1 10/Mar/12 Lead

worm up for good bye tallose!

with random
Hidden 10/Mar/12 Lead RP
tomhull 10/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Chris Plant
Duncan 88 10/Mar/12 2nd dog
AdamBrown 10/Mar/12 2nd
r_o_b_h2 02/Mar/12 Lead RP

two falls then lead clean. tricky to onsight, 5m fall after crux caused by slipping off a greasy hold

with Nik Goile
jacobjlloyd 02/Mar/12 Solo rpt

Perfect sunrise solo. In trainers this time (don't fret, I cleaned them well). Kept running back along the edge to get warm and doing it again. Did it saturday morning as well. No point logging it I suppose - i don't think I'll walk past it again without romping up, and i've done it many times already! The perfect solo.

jacobjlloyd 01/Mar/12 Solo rpt

Lovely. Surely HVS though, lets not get carried away, and so much fun! did it four times, kept me warm while watching the sunset. Dare I say.. best route I've done on grit?

Craig Holden ?/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Bruce Houston ?/Mar/12 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Feb/12 2nd rpt
adam 24 25/Feb/12 Lead RP
jon_gill1 19/Feb/12 2nd O/S
with mike walton
Sam Cooke 19/Feb/12 Lead O/S

Cut loose and was flying by the seat of my buttress for a second, there.

with Tom Adams
georgehumphery 01/Feb/12 TR
clmbr 15/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with mr g walters
williamsd79 14/Jan/12 Lead O/S
centurion05 14/Jan/12 2nd
with dyl
Andyp89 02/Jan/12 2nd
Hidden ??/2012 -
jacktomlinson ??/2012 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 Lead
kabutsu ??/2012 -

Haven't climbed this yet :/ just wondering if the nut I fell on is still there? size 10 wallnut I think!

Sam Melville ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
AndrewJamesCherry ??/2012 Lead O/S

Worth getting up at 4am!

Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
matthew bower ??/2012 2nd
Hidden ??/2012 -
Twisty 12/Nov/11 Lead rpt
with Byron Buck
Drew M 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Nov/11 2nd dog
Andy Peak 1 01/Nov/11 Lead
George Nichols 30/Oct/11 Lead dnf

Got the heel and hands over the second break but couldn't clear the lip.

with Izzy
James Oswald 29/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Done on Kyle's gear after he backed off. Went up, clipped his gear and then reversed back down. Throw a high heel on then stretch for the next break. Work your heels across to get them on the top break then stretch for the next on. Hard work but brilliant. Left me breathless, very cold hands as I mantled it out.

Mr. K 29/Oct/11 Lead dnf

Had four attempts and couldn't get established over the lip after the cam. Turned out when I pissed up it on second that I'd done the hard bit every time and it was all in my head! Wonderful piece of climbing though.

Mr. K 29/Oct/11 2nd rpt
fathobbit 29/Oct/11 2nd
with Mr. K
Hidden 23/Oct/11 Lead β
hilty 16/Oct/11 Lead

Lead again

CragDog 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
chrishedgehog 16/Oct/11 Lead dog

Popped off, popped back on again

with Kieran Myles
Andy Peak 1 15/Oct/11 Lead

Much easier than I ever expected!

with pall bentley
Luuuuuke 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Ian
nickevens 15/Oct/11 2nd dog
with joe
Hidden 15/Oct/11 Lead β
Ed Westwood 15/Oct/11 2nd O/S
with gidmord
gidmord 15/Oct/11 Lead dog
Paul D Jones 13/Oct/11 Lead rpt

Finally got it. Had been raining the day before. thought, should be dry... The wet slopers after the crux added spice...

Hidden 13/Oct/11 2nd dog
Hidden 13/Oct/11 2nd rpt
pmurdy 04/Oct/11 Lead RP

Ground up. Got pumped and fell off after mincing around with gear.

Daniel Heath 29/Sep/11 Lead rpt


J.Wells 28/Sep/11 Solo O/S
pearson9596 26/Sep/11 Lead β
ian d f 26/Sep/11 Lead β

Steve tried to lead, Michael then led and Steve seconded. I then led and Michael seconded. Nearly blew it down-climbing from lip.

stevorobs3 26/Sep/11 Lead RP
al123 25/Sep/11 2nd rpt

nice lead from alex.

with alex
tommo1664 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Brannock 24/Sep/11 Lead rpt

Ground up, fell after getting gear into the break, lowered off then got it clean, moves quite a bit harder than the sloth but really only three or four hard moves.

Richard P Coates 17/Sep/11 2nd dog
ianjfsutcliffe 17/Sep/11 Lead rpt

Ground up.

with Coatesy
Tamati 09/Sep/11 2nd
Jonathan Hall 09/Sep/11 Lead

Finally got round to it and it went ok.

with Will Ward
Hidden 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
rustaldo 03/Sep/11 Lead RP

kit went for the lead and despite a solid effort got uber pumped and backed off. with a crowd gathering, i pulled the rope and tied in and 3rd time round, finally managed a flawless clean ascent!

Hidden 03/Sep/11 Lead dnf
Julesthe1st 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Karl
Hidden 03/Sep/11 2nd dog
mfisher 31/Aug/11 2nd O/S

awesome moves over the roof!! classic!

ollyroberts 31/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Matty
DannyK 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Katie
Mike Hood 24/Aug/11 TR
Mike Hegarty 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Been on my list of 3 star routes to do for some time now.. Not anymore..! Happy days :-)

with Dave
jonleighton 20/Aug/11 2nd β
peaker16 19/Aug/11 Lead
np134 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with S. Coatman
jalien 14/Aug/11 TR RP

Scared of falling on the slab when launching through the roof. Next time perhaps

climbinmunkey 14/Aug/11 Lead rpt

Third Attempt! Executed with grace and confidence this time. Placed 2 Cams in the first break and floated through the crux. Hard to believe how much I struggled on previous attempts.

with Alex
cookacat 14/Aug/11 2nd O/S

strangers let me second it, great fun :)

with randoms
Hidden 05/Aug/11 Lead RP
Hidden 05/Aug/11 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Aug/11 Lead O/S
philippe ?/Aug/11 Lead
masa-alpin 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S

The first move of the crux is pretty reachy for the shorties - hard 5b for me with the feet inevitably cut loose after the move. Definite 3-stars anyway! After Jo giving up, a passer-by attempted to second yet failed to climb, hence I myself top-roped to clean, belayed by Jo. Later Matt top-roped cleanly - top effort!

with Matt B, Jo B
tomjagger 27/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Matt Cooke
Matt Cooke 27/Jul/11 Lead O/S
aretherenoneleft 21/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Andrew
Matt Shepherd 14/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/11 Lead
UnkArl 09/Jul/11 Lead β

Obviously I'd seen photos/videos of this route, but as close to an on-sight as I could get.

wi11 09/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with Duncan
freudy_love 05/Jul/11 2nd rpt
with Andy Gibson, Rob Thomas
Hidden 02/Jul/11 Lead dog
jade 02/Jul/11 -

just andy climbed this one

with andy
dan gibson 02/Jul/11 Solo rpt
Hidden 01/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Shane Standing ?/Jul/11 TR dog

Awesome Route, coming back to lead at some point.

Jack Whiteley 30/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with SMB
Chris Ellyatt 30/Jun/11 TR O/S
with Arraz Makhzani, Jason Almeida, Shane Standing, Owen Jefferies, Paul Windross
Hidden 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 23/Jun/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 18/Jun/11 Lead dnf
Dr Toph 13/Jun/11 Solo O/S

Exciting. Not hard once you go for it though.

Ewano 11/Jun/11 Lead β
rustaldo 11/Jun/11 Lead dog

sweet route! quite pumpy and definitely alot harder than some E1's! the climbing isnt all that straight forward after the obvious crux either.. have to get it clean next time!

with Alex
Lxaddison 11/Jun/11 2nd rpt
Frostie 10/Jun/11 Lead dnf

just did make the long reach. Great looking route. Will be back for another try.

morganator 08/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Jake Morgan, James Hall
robman 03/Jun/11 Lead RP
Yong_Welsh 29/May/11 Lead O/S
with Dave
Alistair Corbett 28/May/11 Lead O/S
with john corbett
dakidunn 24/May/11 2nd dnf

couldn't get above overhang

with Tim Emmett
JYates 19/May/11 2nd
with Alan Caley
gordonday 19/May/11 TR rpt
with clive
JRae 10/May/11 Lead
chrism225 10/May/11 2nd O/S
with jonny
chrism225 10/May/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 08/May/11 Solo O/S
James S 03/May/11 Lead dnf
Tom Redmond 02/May/11 Lead O/S

amazing climb!!

with tom ivory
Hidden 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S
belay bunny turned bad 30/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with loundsy
Hidden 30/Apr/11 Solo
Hidden 30/Apr/11 Lead
Ade7 30/Apr/11 2nd β
with Stewart
misterb 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S

funny feet off moment,awesome fun

with sim
stvredmond 27/Apr/11 Lead

reaching the break (where the cam is) has got to be the crux, the rest is just pulling like your life depends on it.

Cowflinger 24/Apr/11 Lead RP
with Pete Lewis
THardSevere 24/Apr/11 2nd dnf
Hidden 24/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Roberttaylor 23/Apr/11 Lead rpt

On gear up to the crux placed by Harry.

with Tom HS
Hidden 22/Apr/11 2nd rpt
rustaldo 20/Apr/11 Lead dnf

couldn't commit past the lip of the roof. disappointing, but will be back for it..

Matt Fry 19/Apr/11 Lead rpt
flatland_warrior 18/Apr/11 TR rpt
RKernan 18/Apr/11 Lead β
with Benoit Dupasquier
Hidden 18/Apr/11 Lead β
IamJam 18/Apr/11 TR dnf

Didn't get up it but had a fun swing when I fell.

with John Begley
Hidden 18/Apr/11 2nd dog
Dan724 16/Apr/11 Lead rpt

Tried on TR first due to observing other climbers failing-found it very easy and well protected in the end...

mark4344 14/Apr/11 TR

V.pumpy,even on a top rope.good holds, but powerful moves.

Ginger McGrath 11/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with louise, phil emerson
Rhys Black 11/Apr/11 2nd dnf

Rushed attempt at an ascent at the end of the day but was too cold and tired. Definitely wanting to try this again when I'm fresh.

jonnie3430 11/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Carol
davidgent 10/Apr/11 Lead β
with Andy Parsons
andysroom 10/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Bargate_Champ 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Goose4 10/Apr/11 Lead dog
jacobjacob 09/Apr/11 Solo O/S
gnc760 09/Apr/11 Solo rpt
jess 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with martin
ChrisBrooke 09/Apr/11 Lead rpt
with John Inkpen
bnewman 08/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Hard onsight. A memorable climb!

with Amelia
JulesV 07/Apr/11 Solo rpt
max_chan 07/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Gavin PCC
Hidden 06/Apr/11 Lead rpt
john lynch 05/Apr/11 Lead O/S

A bit on the damp side!

with Lewis Andrew
ig248 03/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Kirill
Kirill 03/Apr/11 2nd dnf
Jack.H.92 02/Apr/11 Lead RP
mattpw 02/Apr/11 TR dog

Attempted lead but fell on crux, top-roped with a couple of rests, definitely one to come back to.

with Henry Close-Brooks, John Chattaway
Lxaddison 02/Apr/11 TR RP

Didn't get the flow right. Retreated a little for a rest.

going going gone 02/Apr/11 Lead β
Hidden 01/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden ?/Apr/11 Lead
hazza ?/Apr/11 -
Mike Kiss ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Had our eye on this one for a while.. quite 'out there' unusual moves but brilliant. Cheers to Dan for making the drive up from Bath

with Dan Crick
duncandarnell ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S
henry peter jenkins 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with paul jones
Hidden 24/Mar/11 2nd dog
steve_yo 23/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with smacks
Danstephens 22/Mar/11 2nd β
al123 20/Mar/11 Lead O/S

so much fun, not as pumpy as people make out. didnt use my heels on the second break apart from to mantle up. warrants E1 i think.

matty g 20/Mar/11 2nd O/S
GPN 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Cams in place.

Hidden 19/Mar/11 Lead dnf
dj_brigham05 19/Mar/11 Lead rpt
alex_arthur 19/Mar/11 Lead dnf
with David Brigham
Hidden 13/Mar/11 TR O/S
Hidden 13/Mar/11 Lead O/S
steven24584 12/Mar/11 2nd O/S
CharlieMack 11/Mar/11 2nd rpt
with David
quiffhanger ?/Mar/11 Lead
Aufton 03/Feb/11 Lead RP
with James Laing, James Johnson
Joel Green ?/Feb/11 2nd
natalietanzer ?/Feb/11 Lead β
with will
Goodstuff 31/Jan/11 Lead O/S
coombsy 21/Jan/11 Lead O/S

What a great climb. First trad route of the year and on a beautiful day. Bit harder and reachier than expected getting established above the overhang but damn good fun. Def felt a touch harder than the sloth.

with Danny C
westaway 06/Jan/11 Lead O/S
COUPY2010 ??/2011 Lead β

Fannytastic. I swore ALOT

Luke Brooks ??/2011 -
Law1980 ??/2011 TR
walts4 ??/2011 -
uphillnow ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
Dave Rumney ??/2011 -
jfane ??/2011 Lead O/S
Gareth H ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
Krellen ??/2011 Lead

Its all in your head!

danny33 ??/2011 Lead
Andy Peak 1 ??/2011 Lead
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
thebigfriendlymoose ??/2011 -
thebigfriendlymoose ??/2011 -
ollie_e ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
wi11 ??/2011 2nd rpt
with Nat
DP1977 ??/2011 Lead O/S

First E1 lead.

with Henry Close Brooks
Hidden ?/Dec/10 -
Jay C 28/Nov/10 Lead dnf

Went to far right going over the lip, mantelled and reached to find no holds. Then shifted across, but this time too far left to where the next hold was. Had placed one cam in the break below me, came off and this cam popped which inverted me and I then hit the slab. The gear at the end of the slab held and brought me to a stop, no damage done! Definitely will be doing this next time I'm in Stanage, didn't know the proper route of the route and didn't know about the infamous leg lock rest!

with Sam W
mark20 20/Nov/10 Lead β
Hidden 20/Nov/10 2nd rpt
nai 19/Nov/10 2nd rpt
mhawk 19/Nov/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Nov/10 2nd dnf
barfani chita 14/Nov/10 TR dog

A really desperate stretch for the short to make the overhang reach... otherwise I thought it was easy. Not sure if I'll ever be brave enough to lead it though.

with Saurus
Daniel Heath 13/Nov/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 13/Nov/10 Lead O/S
cliffrad 07/Nov/10 Lead O/S

Nice, powerful climb!!

Hidden 07/Nov/10 -
jonnyboy 06/Nov/10 Lead O/S
Tophe 28/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with dave
skygodley 28/Oct/10 2nd
hrgcb 24/Oct/10 Lead
with Dave Phillips
ccraigg22 24/Oct/10 Lead
Petarghh 24/Oct/10 2nd

Arghhhhhh ! :D

with ccraigg22
pie_eater_pete 18/Oct/10 Lead O/S
treg 17/Oct/10 2nd dog

After making the reach to come out from under the roof, didn't move fast enough and got pumped. Had to hang on rope to rest before finishing. Encouragement from below was crucial as I was about ready to back off.

with Ben
gingerwolf 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Laurence Everitt 17/Oct/10 Lead RP
thomasmouse 17/Oct/10 Lead β
Dan Geh 17/Oct/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Oct/10 Lead
jacobjlloyd 16/Oct/10 2nd β

Beautiful end to the day! Committed to the bat-hang on the second lip for extra exertion : )

with Dougie
thetradlad 16/Oct/10 Lead dnf

will be back for more

dswansonlow 16/Oct/10 Lead β
with Ed Searle
Ewan Russell 14/Oct/10 Lead

Second go.

with Tom Dewhurst
robin_hackney 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Lovely route combining slab climbing, a roof and some technical moves. Bomber gear available for the mid way crux. Just a case of getting on with the climbing (I love heel hooks). Dead chuffed to have lead it clean.

with No one was brave enough - had to ab to retrieve my gear!
Aaron Hauptmann 09/Oct/10 Lead dog

Came off of the crux twice, shook out for several minutes,then finally got back on to finish the route.

with Phil Camp
sam820 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Fresher
greenclimb 07/Oct/10 Lead rpt
jimmysdead 02/Oct/10 TR O/S

Will be on my lead list. Once I grow a bigger pair.

angus ?/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Steffen Cruz ?/Oct/10 Lead β
Englishvoodoo 26/Sep/10 2nd dnf

Failed epically trying to reach for break, fell 4/5 times and had to give up. Will be back one day!

with Tom S
tskelhon 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hannes B 24/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Shane
Rachel Slater 22/Sep/10 Lead β

A little scared about it but it was easier than i expected.

Rachel Slater 22/Sep/10 2nd rpt
AsleepOnBelay 22/Sep/10 2nd

Been wanting to lead this for ages, so serves me right that I end up seconding it! Lovely climbing, and much more amenable than I was expecting.

with Johannes
peaches69 21/Sep/10 Lead O/S

definately feels E1, Done easyer E2s

with sarah
Will Hunt 18/Sep/10 2nd rpt
with Ralph Burden
Alex Winter 17/Sep/10 Lead O/S

I suppose I had to. Not that good.

tigertim 17/Sep/10 2nd
RFWilkie 12/Sep/10 Lead RP

Got the wrong size cam in at break and had to rest before retrying from top of slab.

peaker16 12/Sep/10 TR


M_W_Court 10/Sep/10 Lead O/S
PeteH 08/Sep/10 Lead rpt
jon22 04/Sep/10 Lead
David Kay 03/Sep/10 TR
Hidden 01/Sep/10 Lead dog
Hidden 01/Sep/10 2nd RP
v man 30/Aug/10 Lead dog
with Kat
ekaterina sigida 30/Aug/10 2nd

Excelent climb. Had to get my left hand on the triangular nose and jump up a bit to the break feet off. Heel up on the right side and pull up to the next break. Twin Ropes, small bliu cam first big blue and red cam second, green cam in the first break on the roof yellow cam after.

with Lewis Vaughan
JamieSparkes 30/Aug/10 Lead β

hard work!

with Nick
Nick1812P 30/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Jamie
Hidden 27/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Spence22 27/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Wil
HIGHTOWER 22/Aug/10 2nd
with Danny Mickers
climbinmunkey 21/Aug/10 Lead dog

Spent a long time trying to get the move off the slab as I'm a shorty. Once I got it I already had a pump on; couldn't see the next move once I turned the lip but manage to place a cam in the lip before the pump got me and I came off safe. Yo-yo'd again before I nailed it and cursed my lack of commitment the first time. Place the cam on the lip before you commit to turning it! Them push on with absolute commitment! Brilliant route, will be back to do it clean!

with Helen
Ben Vieyra 20/Aug/10 Lead
Si dH 18/Aug/10 Lead β

Fell on this twice before - once in 2005 and once in 2006. Finally did it today :) Felt quite strong, it didnt put up much of a fight in the end. Really pleased to lay this one to rest!

with Chris Foster
James Oakes 11/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Bill Lawrence 11/Aug/10 Lead β

having tried it last year then downclimbing i knew what gear went where etc and guy also told me what was what so not an onsight. nevertheless a very good climb

FlorianCastagne 09/Aug/10 Lead
fraserbarrett 07/Aug/10 Lead O/S
drcorbasisgod 06/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Dogmusher 06/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with chris parson
Hidden 03/Aug/10 2nd O/S
dan gibson 03/Aug/10 Solo rpt
brices 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/10 Lead rpt
PeteH 31/Jul/10 2nd rpt
with Craig + Sarah
Hidden 31/Jul/10 Lead O/S
David Bulley 31/Jul/10 Lead dnf

Did on top-rope after cleanly, need to start committing to routes dammit!!

with Jay
y2keable 31/Jul/10 2nd rpt
with Bulley
morganator 28/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Tom Cox 27/Jul/10 2nd dog
gingergeorge 25/Jul/10 Lead dog

got the wrong friend in the top lip had to come of then completed it second attempt aghhhhh

Hidden 14/Jul/10 2nd
Hidden 12/Jul/10 Lead
jwpil 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Ben
geddicakes 06/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Liam
liamoloughlin 06/Jul/10 2nd
mark schramm 06/Jul/10 Lead dnf
with si
Mr Sparkle 06/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Simon Allcock 05/Jul/10 Lead dnf
with Mark
marcduhig 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Large amount of commitment

with Andrew
Thinker01 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Bec
7om 01/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Kevster ?/Jul/10 -
Hidden ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Marc Murphy ?/Jul/10 TR
mickersd ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
tigertim 28/Jun/10 Lead rpt

Ha, ha! Returned feeling a little fresher, realised first heel hook is not used to mantle onto!! :-D

tigertim 24/Jun/10 Lead dnf

Knackered - not the best climb to do at the end of a long day - was spat off 3 times or so!! Gear is good :-D

kermit_uk 20/Jun/10 Lead RP
with Steve Woolass
tomthecoolperson 16/Jun/10 2nd
with Andrew
davefount 16/Jun/10 Lead dnf

Did the the dangle of shame 3 times. Then abbed for the gear. got terminally pumpoed trying to place the cam to early, very big moves! will be back

with Jay
Hidden 16/Jun/10 Lead dog
Hidden 15/Jun/10 2nd
wirralclimber1984 15/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Danny parker
Hidden 13/Jun/10 2nd dog
AndyFrank 11/Jun/10 2nd
with Mike Burton
Hidden 11/Jun/10 2nd rpt
vanderz 03/Jun/10 Lead rpt
Chi Cheng 02/Jun/10 Lead O/S
nepsoi999 02/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with nadeem
alitamlit 02/Jun/10 2nd
with chi
keithpeck 01/Jun/10 Lead RP

Another one that needed finishing from last year.

JimBee ?/Jun/10 Lead dnf
dimwit18 31/May/10 2nd dog
Alasdair88 31/May/10 Lead O/S
with Tom baines
PanzerHanzler 30/May/10 Lead dnf

Downclimbed after backing off - retreated onto Flying Buttress normal - LOL - Flying Buttress Direct Indirect!!!

jadm2 24/May/10 2nd dog
with Dave
Hidden 22/May/10 2nd rpt
NickHobbs 20/May/10 Lead O/S
with Bruce
Hidden 18/May/10 2nd O/S
dodfoster 17/May/10 Lead O/S

Soloed after.....again, and again, and again. So much fun!! Awesome climb.

with nick faulkner
JeromeT 17/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/May/10 Lead
Anthony Allsopp 09/May/10 Lead O/S

defintely worthy if its top 50 grit status

with Richard Wilkinson
tomthecoolperson 05/May/10 Lead rpt
with Ben 250
ben_250 05/May/10 2nd RP

Nice route, good gear but comitting

with Tom
Hidden 04/May/10 Lead rpt
wi11 03/May/10 2nd dnf
with Chris Gee
Alexandre Buisse 03/May/10 Lead O/S

Got closed to running out of steam but finally nicked the OS. Steep, juggy, fun swinging moves, good gear and a hard to read crux sequence... Great route!

a13x 02/May/10 Lead dnf
a13x 02/May/10 2nd
Liluna ?/May/10 2nd

Beautiful! Still the background of my handy. :-)

pudding ?/May/10 Lead O/S

finished it off on a team effort so had some of the gear in it but didnt detract from the awesomeness of the climb!

Bern ?/May/10 Lead O/S
with Peter Brown
Jack Loftus 27/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Nick
Hidden 27/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/10 2nd rpt
Roberttaylor 24/Apr/10 2nd O/S

Amazing route, not as hard as I expected which means I have to try leading it soon. Used the lying down rest after the crux to the amusement of onlookers.

freudy_love 24/Apr/10 Lead β
with Robert Taylor
robin heath 23/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Mike Thomas
The Bad Cough 23/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Christian Minett
joe.91 22/Apr/10 Lead dnf

Got heel on and then couldn't find the next jug! Fell and hit the slab, no damage at all so 'tis all good.

disturbed_one51 20/Apr/10 Lead
jon clayton 20/Apr/10 Lead

what a beautiful if not scary lead. all ok once i got the no.2 friend set

with Paul Beeson
Hidden 17/Apr/10 2nd β
Fergus Cuthill 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
MorganPreece 16/Apr/10 Lead rpt

Lovely route!

with Jessy and Solo
Lawrie Brand 12/Apr/10 Lead dnf
rockjedi 11/Apr/10 Lead rpt
Kyle Rance 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Awsome route, good holds, stong move for crux

Ben Watts 10/Apr/10 2nd dnf
with Kyle Rance
theotherpetehill 08/Apr/10 Lead dnf

Fail! Need to learn how to climb roofs. Still, I reckon the rockfax HVS grade is a total sandbag

Daniel Heath 07/Apr/10 Lead RP

Toproped two weeks previous

adam.butler.dsfc 07/Apr/10 TR dnf
migs493 07/Apr/10 2nd β
with Jon L
Hidden 07/Apr/10 Lead
oliwarlow 03/Apr/10 Lead
with Polly
Maxim2023 ?/Apr/10 2nd
with Morgan Preece
Hidden ?/Apr/10 Lead rpt
johniebriggs ?/Apr/10 Lead dog

4m fall from above roof, straight back on!

with neil shef
davewsargent ?/Apr/10 2nd O/S
BrettB ?/Apr/10 Lead
Phil Emerson ?/Apr/10 2nd
Hidden ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Adam Potter 27/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Mar/10 Lead β
Hidden 21/Mar/10 2nd
adam.butler.dsfc 21/Mar/10 TR dnf
Phil Jennings 21/Mar/10 Lead rpt
with Anna Jennings, Kieran Smith
Hidden 17/Mar/10 Lead O/S
beeson_paul 17/Mar/10 Lead RP

first couple of times had to have cam placed on overhang before lead...but got there in the end :D

Hidden 16/Mar/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 16/Mar/10 2nd O/S
Will_Maxwell 16/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Tough work!

with Alex Erskine, Rafael Pena
dj_brigham05 14/Mar/10 Lead rpt
stewart100 14/Mar/10 2nd O/S
owain86 13/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Max
Mike Goldthorp 12/Mar/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 08/Mar/10 Solo
Pown 02/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Pete Graham 02/Mar/10 2nd
Roberto ?/Feb/10 Lead O/S
Cake ??/2010 Lead O/S

Clean. No problems really. That's how it's got to be done really I think. Tippler next, then the rasp

with Matt
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
Ahab ??/2010 Lead β
katyvose1 ??/2010 -
ross hold ??/2010 Lead O/S
Speeddemonsi ??/2010 Lead O/S
pie_eater_pete ??/2010 -
RossG ??/2010 -
stephenhartley ??/2010 2nd
Lunar25 ??/2010 Lead O/S
with Stacy Oliver
niall_stone ??/2010 2nd dog
sionjosh ??/2010 Lead
pratty25 ??/2010 -
Jonny Nick ??/2010 2nd
cymjt ??/2010 -
xiangoh ??/2010 2nd O/S
tomthecoolperson 11/Dec/09 Lead dog
with Ben 250
IAmAStone 05/Dec/09 Lead rpt

First time on FBD and did it on my 27th birthday.

with Tom Ramsden
sgl0jd 09/Nov/09 Lead
with Simon Moorehouse
Hidden 31/Oct/09 Lead O/S
pelvoux 18/Oct/09 Lead dog

Shouldn't have follow Alex's advice!

with Alex
dmoir 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Dave Searle 16/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with ben
mlmatt 10/Oct/09 Lead

Ground up, after Dan gave me the lead.

with Dan Masterman
snakebite 10/Oct/09 2nd
gnc760 10/Oct/09 Lead rpt
with Tom H
CharlieMack 07/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Keith Kilcommons
Hidden 04/Oct/09 Lead O/S
natalietanzer 01/Oct/09 Lead dog
garburn ?/Oct/09 Lead
Jamie Goodwin 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Dyno for first roof break!

Hidden 23/Sep/09 Lead rpt
simon1965 23/Sep/09 2nd
wahniel 22/Sep/09 2nd rpt

WARNING : I had an avoidable, potentially serious near miss when I was leading first. I found myself hanging on the lip of the roof when all my gear fell out below, running out of power quickly. I had to reverse what is probably the most taxing move on this to get back to the top of the slab. This happened because I had not paid enough attention to what should be safe placements below the roof. The nut slots are quite polished due to frequent ascents. My nuts both pivoted out when i moved up as they were not extended enough and my belayer stood at an unfavourable angle. Pay attention to this if you're going to lead it.

with Stewart McConnell
highrepute 20/Sep/09 2nd
Hidden 18/Sep/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 16/Sep/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 16/Sep/09 Lead
Hidden 16/Sep/09 Lead RP
Silum 15/Sep/09 Lead O/S

went swimmingly.

MorganPreece 14/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Monty
axeman 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with james
feilx 13/Sep/09 2nd rpt
with Andy L
Hidden 09/Sep/09 Lead O/S
smallerrich 08/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Easy when you know which way your going!! Probably should read the guide book next time...

with Alison
Hidden 06/Sep/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 06/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Sep/09 2nd dnf
lost.arrow 05/Sep/09 Lead

HVS 5b *** in my book.

with Ian Ashworth
joese7en 02/Sep/09 Lead O/S
JPGR ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Frank
basvdploeg ?/Sep/09 Lead β
carl_123 31/Aug/09 Lead dnf
chris_j_s 23/Aug/09 Lead dnf

Damn! Really wanted this... Move out under the roof felt absolutely massive, managed to do it but got pumped placing gear and fell. :-(

anguskille 23/Aug/09 Lead β

well good route, proper pumpy and reachy for me, covers good ground for the grade

hilty 23/Aug/09 Lead rpt

Got pumped and fell got it second go

vertigo 22/Aug/09 Lead β
ChrisBrooke 21/Aug/09 2nd
with Duncan Bell
frost 19/Aug/09 Solo O/S

back roped with a grigri

Hidden 18/Aug/09 Lead rpt
Joe Dove 16/Aug/09 Lead
keithpeck 13/Aug/09 Lead

moves aren't too hard but i got pumped placing the cams and came off after placing them. lowered back to the ground then went up and finished the route.

BicepAndrews 13/Aug/09 Lead RP
nadeem 10/Aug/09 Lead RP

Second go. best route in the world in the grade. wicked

with Aaron Crawley
duzinga 31/Jul/09 Lead dnf

got pumped silly.went too far right, couldn't get back left

with Bob
duzinga 31/Jul/09 TR rpt

to retreive gear. felt fine on top rope.

with Bob
BobPorter 31/Jul/09 Lead dnf
with Tuve
Hidden 25/Jul/09 Lead dnf
Hidden 23/Jul/09 2nd O/S
Andrew Barker 23/Jul/09 Solo O/S

Sweet. Been saving this for the solo. All over in about a minute but very enjoyable.

with Jack Symmons
Ben1983 19/Jul/09 Lead O/S
steve2006 18/Jul/09 Lead O/S

this was very pumpy. I ended up "laying" on the ledge to rest. reclimbed it in 2010

Stig 16/Jul/09 Lead rpt
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Hidden 14/Jul/09 2nd
climbercromie 14/Jul/09 2nd rpt

I loved this climb it was a very desperate climb but a good one

with Ian Woodrow
Ian JL 13/Jul/09 Lead O/S
EmmanuelF 11/Jul/09 Lead dnf

supoer dogging on last move

with Laura
dicky79 11/Jul/09 Lead dnf
with Jo
Reaver2k 05/Jul/09 2nd O/S

Got this clean, annoying as I wanted to lead it onsight but oh well you win some you lose some. The move out to the roof is absolutely enormous! Once you've got that it didn't feel that bad, would just have to whip the gear into the break quickly and it would be fine. Will lead it sometime hopefully!

with Michael Watson
gareth scott borthwick 01/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with mat
jored ?/Jul/09 -
with Chris W
Hidden ?/Jul/09 Lead
Gazleah 30/Jun/09 Lead β
with paul jones
Hidden 22/Jun/09 Lead O/S
scorpia97 20/Jun/09 Lead dnf

Felt a lot harder than HVS, possibly because I wasnt used to grit and didnt have a guide book so didnt know where the route went and so was following chalk marks. Will come back and finish this route, truly inspirational and a favourite climb.

with Paul
bobbarnes00 13/Jun/09 2nd β

The hardest thing I've done outdoors by a country mile. Awesome.

with Dan Bradley
fennerz 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S


with Dan Lane, Liam Copley
Byronius Maximus 12/Jun/09 Lead RP

Finally bloody got it, 13 months after first trying. More of siege than a lead. Did it from ground to top in one in the end though which was nice.

Hidden 12/Jun/09 Lead dog
D.Russell 04/Jun/09 Lead β

yo yo

with Adam
Nicos 03/Jun/09 Lead rpt
with Garry Wheeler
melonmike ?/Jun/09 2nd
with Andy Gardner
Hidden ?/Jun/09 Lead
sdht ?/Jun/09 2nd
Hidden 31/May/09 Lead
Hidden 31/May/09 2nd rpt
ian storey 27/May/09 Lead O/S
with tez29
Hidden 26/May/09 Lead β
Hidden 24/May/09 Lead
Christian Reynish 23/May/09 2nd β

After falling off roof on lead

chris wyatt 23/May/09 Lead O/S
DafSWMC 23/May/09 Lead β

With stuck nut and preplaced cam

Steve Hill 23/May/09 2nd O/S
Peter Holder 04/May/09 Lead O/S
with Richard Lydiatt; Adam Rawlings
Hidden 25/Apr/09 Lead O/S
nic42 25/Apr/09 2nd
Hidden 22/Apr/09 Lead dog
Tony Little 21/Apr/09 2nd
with Dan
Oliver Branagan 18/Apr/09 Lead

First lead fall, the onsight experience was awesome for me on this. Shouldn't have let go. - Anyway, pulled the ropes through and nailed it ground up on second attempt.

with Hairy Tom
rd2904 16/Apr/09 -
with Darren Southcott
Hidden 16/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Shaw Brown 11/Apr/09 Lead
with Loz
Woodiee 06/Apr/09 2nd rpt
with Polly Harmer
metal arms 03/Apr/09 Lead O/S
LittleJoe 02/Apr/09 Lead dog
with Martin
benchwarmer 01/Apr/09 2nd O/S
willoates ?/Apr/09 Lead rpt
JIMJIM ?/Apr/09 2nd O/S
monsteratt ?/Apr/09 2nd O/S
datoon 22/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with K
Hidden 19/Mar/09 Lead dog
BeccaSnowden 18/Mar/09 2nd dog

:( I couldn't reach any of the holds!

with Tom
thomasadixon 18/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Managed to climb up, place a couple of bits of gear in the lip and climb back down! Really nice route once you go for it if a bit reachy.

with Becca
BicepAndrews 16/Mar/09 Lead

Hard. Fell/rested many times pulling over lip. The next hold is up and left, not right!

Samo 15/Mar/09 2nd dog

amazing! will lead one day...

ashknot 14/Mar/09 2nd O/S
with Joe
marceli 13/Mar/09 AltLd RP
with floris, hose
GuyVG 04/Mar/09 Lead β

knew the gear and the moves due to nerd-iness on ukc. pulling over lip got my leg trapped under rope and nearly pulled myself off, had a lye down on the ledge after and pulled through, very happy to get it done and felt amazing to cut loose. the pint tasted amazing.

with Mikey, Mick and Al
Mick r 04/Mar/09 2nd rpt

followed Guy out/up hopefully with slightly more style. managed to avoid the horizontal rest on the ledge

with Al, Mikey and Guy
ascii.abuse ?/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Peter West
Hidden ?/Mar/09 Lead O/S
shyster boulder 19/Feb/09 2nd O/S
Martin Davies 18/Jan/09 Lead β

Ground up. Really good climb, feels scary but just go for it! Dropped off the roof twice before getting it on third attempt.

with Ollie Lister
koopa ??/2009 2nd
BRUCESTRAC ??/2009 -
keith leonard ??/2009 Lead rpt
kingholmesy ??/2009 Lead O/S
with Andy S
CliffSurtees ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
Peter Rhodes ??/2009 -
plain kitten ??/2009 Lead
Hidden 27/Dec/08 -
JamieSparkes 23/Dec/08 Lead dnf

ran away from the overhang, too bloody windy and cold to commit to going across the roof.

tomB 22/Nov/08 Lead O/S
with Jody
Alex Mason 07/Nov/08 Solo

sweet solo, so so good!

Dave Warburton 28/Oct/08 Lead O/S

Enjoyed this, even though it was freezing and snowing. Never seen anyone do it but i knew there was a heelhook involved somewhere, still didn't make sense! did minutes after Eliminator... E1 for sure and a fine end to the only good day of our trip :-(.

chris sm 26/Oct/08 Lead dog
with Pippa Froggatt
Woodiee 18/Oct/08 Lead O/S

nice end to a day!: so absorbed by the brilliant position i found myself in, forgot to place gear in the roof break, so was a bit run out :)

gnc760 13/Oct/08 Lead β
with Rose Williams
jimsrankin ?/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with andy, ben & guy
reapey 27/Sep/08 2nd rpt
with phil
tommytuffa 21/Sep/08 2nd
with steve
Ben Harper 14/Sep/08 Lead β
with Andy Webster
clive-greenwood 08/Sep/08 2nd rpt
MikeLeeds 08/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Took me a while to commit to the move out and lay on the first ledge for quite a while getting my breath back

Hidden 03/Sep/08 Lead rpt
Hidden 02/Sep/08 Lead O/S
joe c ook ?/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Nate
w.pettet-smith ?/Sep/08 2nd

dissapointed i didn't lead it- so much fun! first hold on the roof proper a bit reachy like.

with duncan the quiet american
coombs ?/Sep/08 Lead
wildbill ?/Sep/08 TR
with Little Jamie
Mr Wild 30/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with olly
Sam1991 26/Aug/08 2nd O/S

Awsome!!!! Heel hook is the best move ive done on a climb in a long time...if ever.

with Matt
Matt Fry 26/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Morgan Woods 24/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Not as easy as i expected. Required a fair bit of gurn!

with Blaine
Hidden 22/Aug/08 2nd dog
Slatehead 20/Aug/08 Lead dog

Cant believe I dogged it. Should have moved back left to tackle the final bulge. E1.

with Sean Jacobs
danfitz 18/Aug/08 Lead O/S
djp1 13/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with Dom
Matt Shepherd 13/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/08 TR dnf
inuklm 26/Jul/08 Lead dog
with Dave Gent
Jack00 21/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Shaun Walby
dj_brigham05 19/Jul/08 Lead O/S
davidgent ?/Jul/08 2nd O/S
with Kunal
johniebriggs ?/Jul/08 TR
Adam1973 30/Jun/08 2nd
IanJackson 30/Jun/08 Lead
with Adam1973
Hidden 28/Jun/08 Lead dnf
Hidden 24/Jun/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/08 Lead
Hidden 17/Jun/08 Lead O/S
feilx 11/Jun/08 Solo O/S
roberto18 10/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Tom Nickols
Hidden 06/Jun/08 Lead O/S
centurion05 03/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with dave g
Mike W ?/Jun/08 Lead
Ollie B ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/May/08 Lead rpt
Tez29 22/May/08 Lead O/S
with Tom
AndyL 19/May/08 Lead


with burto
gregoritos 17/May/08 Lead O/S
with Dougie Hall
Pilch 15/May/08 2nd O/S

got up in one go, very pumped though and found the moves to be reachy

with Graham
Hidden 15/May/08 2nd dnf
dave o 15/May/08 Lead O/S
with Julia H
bullwinkle 14/May/08 2nd rpt
with Paul
Guy Wilson 12/May/08 Lead dnf
with Jenny Calvert
Jeronimo 07/May/08 Lead O/S

Before the overhang, hung around a bit, just trying to reach the first crack and not committing. Just go for it! Nick couldn't do it. Abbd down to get a bit of gear.

with Nick Middleton
Ed Booth 06/May/08 Solo
Dan Lane 03/May/08 TR dnf
with Dad
blaza1 ?/May/08 Lead
with Joe Mccarty
PeteH ?/May/08 Lead β

Definitely helped having watched someone on it before... Was a little reticent after peeling off Right Unconquerable.

ed edwards ?/May/08 Lead O/S
tom.ireson 19/Apr/08 Lead β
with Jens Verhagh
Hidden 14/Apr/08 Lead
riddle 12/Apr/08 Lead dog

Great route, tough for the second!

with Yasmina
Hidden 02/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/08 Lead
tom russell 14/Mar/08 Lead O/S

scary climb. couldnt feel my fingers!! awesome route.

with Alex Moran
C.J.Horsfield 13/Mar/08 Lead O/S

commiting but juggy all the way, good thuggy route

with thomas martin
Adam Booth 17/Feb/08 Lead O/S
HamishD 16/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with vince vahinsberg
vvanhinsbergh 16/Feb/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Feb/08 Solo O/S
Ed Booth 12/Feb/08 Solo O/S
Stig 12/Feb/08 Lead rpt

Finally! Amazing route.

with Ray
mel holmes 12/Feb/08 2nd
with Tony Reed
tom.ireson 10/Feb/08 2nd RP
with Jens Verhagh
Twisty 10/Feb/08 Lead O/S

AMAZING Completly flowed through, good holds, gear, weather and people made this fantastic.

with Byron Buck
Timothy Greenhalgh 09/Feb/08 Lead β
with and Rob
Andrew1 06/Feb/08 Lead dnf
Dale ?/Feb/08 Lead dog

fell off the lip of the overhang I was doing it wrong. got it second time

with dave
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/08 Lead
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
barni ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Glyn
TrollJester ??/2008 AltLd O/S
with VARIOUS Throughout 80's+90's
Hidden ??/2008 -
Kyuzo ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
mynameisjen ??/2008 2nd β

on freshers trip when i started uni! will lead, and i seconded. nice heel hooks. wouldnt have had the guts to lead it then

with Will Taylor
fifth ??/2008 -
KKilroy ??/2008 Lead β
with Luke
Hidden ??/2008 -
tom.e 06/Nov/07 Lead O/S
bob3141 03/Nov/07 2nd dog
Nick Taylor 03/Nov/07 Lead β
Jesse Dufton 03/Nov/07 Lead
with bob3141
Simon Webb ?/Nov/07 TR dnf
with Adam
nacnud 29/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Bristoldave 20/Oct/07 Lead rpt

Had failed on this a year or so ago

with Sam
andy gravestock 19/Oct/07 Lead O/S

truely amazing shame its getting worn down but still a really good day out.

with sarah and father
Hidden 10/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Karl Wooffindin 07/Oct/07 Lead O/S

Placed no gear in the roof, fear got me up that one i think.

scullymammoth 07/Oct/07 2nd rpt
MYSSAK 07/Oct/07 Solo rpt
Hidden 06/Oct/07 2nd
Hidden 06/Oct/07 Lead
Cragrat Rich 04/Oct/07 Lead

Eventually lead clean.. two years after a trapped rope necessitated me lobbing myself off the ledge backwards!

Hidden 04/Oct/07 Lead
Adam Humphreys 02/Oct/07 Lead β

just a head game use heel hook to place a 1.5 cam on overhang, not over till its over

with Dunx
Adam Humphreys 29/Sep/07 Lead β

Scary but increadible, size 1.5 friend in overhang.

with Dunx
Hidden 22/Sep/07 Lead O/S
sam8oy 14/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Paul
OffshoreAndy 09/Sep/07 2nd
with NCC Kelvin
Andy Moles 01/Sep/07 Lead β

Is it possible to avoid beta on this one?? Brilliant though.

with Calum
andymoin 31/Aug/07 Lead

Stubbornly tried to place a cam that was 2 big in the lip pumped and fell. Got straight back on with the correct size and did it fine with an ace lie down rest after pulling up. Ground up not clean. Awesome route for HVS. Please stop with the cam beta!!!!!!

Sean Bell 31/Aug/07 Lead O/S


with Ecky
beegsyboy 31/Aug/07 2nd O/S
with Wee Mark
Neil Mackenzie 31/Aug/07 2nd
with Sean
Hidden 29/Aug/07 Lead
kendogcatchy 25/Aug/07 2nd dog

lead to start, but couldn't get beyond the break - a mate did it easily, so i seconded him. take a 2.5 friend for the crack on the roof.

bullwinkle 23/Aug/07 2nd rpt
with John, Paul
Glyn 17/Aug/07 Lead
with Barni
Joe Marsh 13/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Nathan
Hidden 13/Aug/07 2nd O/S
jibberingwreck 12/Aug/07 Lead O/S
mustgetstronger 12/Aug/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/07 Lead O/S
jamiev 31/Jul/07 Lead β

Absolutely glorious. And capped off by a magnificent sunset.

with Kenta Tanaka
Ram MkiV 16/Jul/07 Solo
Mattyk 07/Jul/07 Lead dog

oh dear.. fell off having a go at this.. dissapointed as with a minutes rest the pull over was easy. and i also knew the best bit to grab. seconded ali later on it and found it as hard on the 2nd.

with Ali K
liamoloughlin ?/Jul/07 Lead
Hidden 17/Jun/07 2nd dnf
benjhans 08/Jun/07 Lead dnf
with Paul
bullwinkle 02/Jun/07 Lead β
with Paul
sparkass ?/Jun/07 Lead rpt
TomHaigh ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Fraser
OffshoreAndy 26/May/07 Lead O/S
with Skell
Hedley 25/May/07 TR O/S
timharrison 24/May/07 Lead dnf
timharrison 24/May/07 TR rpt

only just, totally exhausted after six days on the trot!!

timharrison 23/May/07 Lead dnf
timharrison 23/May/07 TR β
baldcoder 21/May/07 TR
with Little Old Lady
felixthelion ?/May/07 Lead β
with Miles Wilks (sparrow boy)
furry 28/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with John LMC
adam carless 28/Apr/07 2nd O/S

not a good route to warm up on. The span out across the roof was the crux, heel hooks and jugs from then on.

with Steve Someone
climbingrick 28/Apr/07 Lead O/S
fizzy_elephant 15/Apr/07 Lead
with Nick Fletcher
Hidden 14/Apr/07 Lead
Joe Costello 13/Apr/07 2nd O/S


with James
Hidden 11/Apr/07 Lead dnf
Hidden 11/Apr/07 -
joe larner 03/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Probably HVS for someone whos been to the wall a bit to much like me. But still feels quite bold. Heel hooks stop it from feeling at all powerful.

Hidden 01/Apr/07 Lead dnf
Oceanic ?/Apr/07 -
craig matheson ?/Apr/07 Solo
Hidden 26/Mar/07 TR rpt
Hidden 17/Mar/07 Lead dnf
Hidden 10/Mar/07 2nd O/S
david morse 10/Mar/07 Lead dog
with chris todd
alaan 18/Feb/07 Lead rpt
with Dave
Hidden 18/Feb/07 2nd dnf
Graeme Hammond 05/Feb/07 Lead rpt
Ram MkiV 05/Feb/07 Lead

got the rope out for this one after a day of perfect weather spent soloing lots of easier 3* routes

with alex , vash & lucy
BallsofBritishSteel 04/Feb/07 2nd dnf
cem 04/Feb/07 Lead dog

1 rest

with Graham Dolman, Rob Truckle
Chad123 ?/Feb/07 AltLd O/S

Think E1 is a better grade - certainly felt way harder than Wuthering and The Link on the same day!

with Rik
Nicos 30/Jan/07 Lead O/S
with andrew gardner
Hidden ??/2007 2nd
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Skell ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Andy
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
rich13 ??/2007 2nd
mshorter ??/2007 Lead
with dunc
willackers ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Pete Halliwell
Pete Graham ??/2007 Lead
jake-jones ??/2007 Lead RP
Phill Mitch ??/2007 Lead O/S

fantastic route.i got a bit lost after the big move, lucky to find my way before i ran out of steam.

with gaz
matiyam ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
jonnybull ??/2007 TR
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
Dan 85 26/Nov/06 Lead RP
with Jonny
PenCox 26/Nov/06 Lead O/S
with Dan
greg101 12/Nov/06 Lead
with Dave
Hidden 12/Nov/06 Lead O/S
tumbling wizard 09/Nov/06 Lead rpt
mankrambler 03/Nov/06 TR O/S
with Ian Rath
Tobias at Home 29/Oct/06 2nd rpt
with SteveM
tatz45 29/Oct/06 Lead β
clive-greenwood 29/Oct/06 Lead β
SteveM 29/Oct/06 Lead β

No rain this time :-)

with Tobs
Xav 21/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with Greg Grace
tumbling wizard 13/Oct/06 2nd rpt
Dunx 07/Oct/06 TR
irish paul ?/Oct/06 Lead
with Various
Hidden ?/Oct/06 Lead O/S
Jack Symmons ?/Oct/06 Lead
with Chris T
tobydunford 27/Sep/06 Lead β

Exhilarating, shame about the down grade, but probably right i spose, nearly lost my bottle on the top!

with Ben Smith, Harry Martin
colin milton 08/Sep/06 2nd
Castleclimber ?/Sep/06 Lead dog

Fell off after finding the right sized cam for the break. Climbed in the dark and fog without a headtorch.

with Fred Lyon
Hidden 28/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/06 Lead O/S
dpurf 18/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Patrick
Si dH 10/Aug/06 Lead dnf

I now offically hate this route, it is too hard :(

with Neil Furniss
bigie bob 09/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/06 Lead dnf
Hidden 04/Aug/06 Solo rpt
Hidden ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Steve Vincent 16/Jul/06 2nd

fucking awesome

tumbling wizard 08/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/06 Lead
01wills ?/Jul/06 Lead dnf

just was proper nakered and kept swinging off the first over hang

with daniel flatt
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 24/Jun/06 Solo rpt
Hidden 23/Jun/06 Lead β
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 17/Jun/06 Solo rpt
aled.sage 10/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Alice Cruickshank
Owen W-G 02/Jun/06 Lead O/S

Writing this 3ys after leading FBD and it is still probably my fav grit route.

steveP ?/Jun/06 Lead dog
with Simon Ralphs
Bux ?/Jun/06 Lead dog

Fell off on the arete, luckily cam didn't pop which i found out later is a common occurance! Gutted. If i had just moved up and left a bit i would have done it clean. Only second ever lead on grit though.

with Jon
Dan_Carroll ?/Jun/06 Lead dog
with Rebecca Holland
Whitt 28/May/06 Lead dnf
with Chris
Somerset swede basher 23/May/06 Lead β
with Steven Gibbs
Hidden 22/Apr/06 Lead
Oli 05/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Ian Killey
Hidden 04/Apr/06 2nd O/S
mikecopp 04/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Will B
Hidden ?/Apr/06 Lead
Nicos 07/Feb/06 Lead dnf
with jim
mattyork2 ?/Jan/06 Lead dog
Boy ??/2006 -
dan gibson ??/2006 -
ewen ??/2006 -
grant727 ??/2006 Lead

well fun shd be a g8 solo 2

with adam rooke
Nick Beckett ??/2006 Lead
with various
derico ??/2006 Lead O/S
Neil Adams ??/2006 -
Johann ??/2006 Lead dog
with Gustau
dannyboy83 ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Dad, Will
highrepute ??/2006 Lead O/S
Holly R ??/2006 2nd
with Jorg
Hidden ??/2006 Lead
Mark Warnett ??/2006 Lead O/S
shark 24/Dec/05 2nd
with Mick B
Hidden ?/Dec/05 -
alaan ?/Nov/05 Lead dog

Placing the gear knackered me, lowered back to the slab, had a rest, swore and then climbed through.

with Matt
Chris M 01/Oct/05 Lead dog

Fell after placing gear, totally pumped out... nothing to do with john and amy´s dj sets the pevious night....

with Paul P
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 01/Oct/05 2nd rpt
loonyclimber ?/Oct/05 2nd

Gutted it wasn't my lead... :(

Greg Pittam ?/Oct/05 2nd
with James Burrows
Si dH 27/Sep/05 Lead dnf
with Liz Kooper
Sam and will 30/Aug/05 Lead O/S


Hidden 20/Jul/05 Lead dog
Stig 14/Jul/05 Lead dog
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Ian Broome 04/May/05 Lead dog
with Spence
lukea 27/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with shannon
adamwesthead 21/Apr/05 2nd dog

Trashed Level 1

with Hoult
catt 17/Apr/05 2nd O/S
with Toby
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Ram MkiV ??/2005 Lead O/S

same day as eliminator - after a birdseye shift i think. placed gear at the back of the roof. never stopped again till i'd turned the bulge. exhilerating climbing

with Dan Holdsworth
Hidden ??/2005 Lead
Iggy_B ??/2005 Lead
with Simon Shaw
SteveM ??/2005 Lead dnf

Backed off in the rain

with Tobs
Chris M ??/2005 -
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 09/Oct/04 Solo rpt
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 01/Sep/04 Solo rpt
Hidden ?/Sep/04 2nd
drysori ?/Sep/04 Lead O/S
Apharri ?/Sep/04 Lead O/S
with Dave Wharton
MeMeMe ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
climbtim 29/May/04 2nd
Alastair Hudson 08/May/04 Lead G/U
with Clare Young
mbutton ?/May/04 Lead O/S
with Neil Amos
Daniel Armitage 30/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/04 Lead dog
Mark Riley ?/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Pythonist ??/2004 Lead O/S
Rik Dawes ??/2004 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Nov/03 Lead O/S
simon kimber ?/Nov/03 Lead
with Robin Wilmshurst-Smith
Hidden 18/Oct/03 Lead O/S
jimbonfire 10/Jul/03 Lead rpt

2 Heel hooks then pulled, great location excellent climbing...

cem 22/Jun/03 2nd dog
with Liam Mark
ali_robb ?/Jun/03 Solo O/S
chris warner ?/May/03 2nd


with john roberts
Lev 21/Apr/03 Lead dog

Had a rest on the lip after spending time forcing the wrong size cam into the break.

with Claire Durant
Mark Collins 12/Apr/03 2nd O/S
with Andrew Eakins
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 26/Mar/03 Lead O/S
with Jon Box
darren1 15/Mar/03 -
Hidden 11/Jan/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2003 Lead dnf
LoopyLou ??/2003 2nd

Felt hard at the time, and scary.

with Richard Mundy
zero six ??/2003 Lead O/S
philhilo ??/2003 Lead O/S
simon kimber ?/Nov/02 2nd
Hidden 10/Sep/02 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/02 Lead O/S
Just Another Dave 13/Jul/02 Lead O/S
with cathy?
Leofallon 06/Jul/02 Lead
220bpm ?/Jul/02 Lead β
with Dave
Hidden 17/May/02 Lead O/S
shoulders 14/Apr/02 Lead
Hidden 02/Apr/02 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Feb/02 Lead
petekeron ??/2002 Lead O/S
Batty 05/Oct/01 TR dog
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Jul/01 Lead G/U
with Nik Howard
akhughes ?/May/01 Lead
Hidden ??/2001 2nd O/S
tuftynick ??/2001 -
Hidden ?/Sep/00 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/00 Lead rpt
Gilgar ?/Aug/00 2nd

Storey Arms week in the peaks

with Ryan Edwards, Duncan Barrack
tommytwotone 23/Jul/00 2nd O/S
with Richard Hatton
FrankW 20/Jul/00 Lead O/S
with Andy R
antroy 12/Jul/00 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/00 2nd
Paz ?/Jul/00 Lead

At the fifth attempt: http://www.dangeroussite.com/peak_routes_flying%20buttress.shtml

with JG
Jody ?/Jul/00 Lead β
with JD
Hidden ?/May/00 Lead
Hidden 08/Apr/00 2nd dog
Jonathan Richardson ??/2000 Lead
tlr ??/2000 Lead
jonka ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
Urgles ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 2nd
Hidden ??/2000 Lead dog
haydng ??/2000 Lead O/S
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
nige ??/2000 -
Hidden 16/Oct/99 Lead O/S
Roget 25/Sep/99 Solo rpt
with jon
Hidden 19/Jul/99 2nd O/S
CrashMat Rob 10/Jul/99 Lead β
with Tom, Nicky, Glynn
Different Steve ?/Jul/99 TR O/S

top-roped it - oh the shame!

with Rupert Holbrook
CrashMat Rob 05/Jun/99 2nd
with Martin Whelan, Nicky
DavidEvans 03/May/99 2nd
Jon Dittman 09/Apr/99 2nd
rocktigger ??/1999 Lead

When it used 2 B HVS

Simon Pearce ??/1999 -
CrashMat Rob 19/Sep/98 Lead O/S

Rob? second

with Dave, Nev, rob?, Nicky
Hidden 15/Aug/98 Lead O/S
CrashMat Rob 18/Jul/98 Lead O/S
with Nicky
DavidEvans ?/May/98 2nd
with SCUM, William Wilson
DavidEvans ?/May/98 2nd

To some random foreign bloke

CrashMat Rob 28/Mar/98 Lead O/S

thinking of soloing it

with Nicky
DavidEvans 25/Feb/98 2nd

Ad fell off about 7 times.

with SCUM, adam ellwood
Hidden 11/Jan/98 2nd rpt
Hidden ??/1998 Lead dog
Hidden ??/1998 -
Hidden 23/Nov/97 2nd rpt
Hidden 19/Oct/97 2nd O/S
DavidEvans 04/Oct/97 Lead RP

3rd go!

with SCUM
Jon Read ?/Oct/97 Solo rpt
clive-greenwood ?/Oct/97 Lead dnf
with Sean Robey
Hidden 27/Sep/97 Lead
CrashMat Rob 10/Aug/97 Lead dog
with Jim Price, Martin Smith, Karen
CrashMat Rob 19/Jul/97 Lead O/S
with Martin Smith, Nicky
John Pickles 14/Jun/97 Lead O/S
CrashMat Rob 31/May/97 TR
with Jim Price, Martin Smith, Karen
kp64zl ?/May/97 Lead
with Simon M, Kirsten
skygodley 19/Apr/97 Lead O/S
JonBray ??/1997 Lead β
Hidden 20/Sep/96 2nd
akamini ?/Jul/96 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/96 2nd
lost.arrow 22/Jun/96 Lead
timreynolds 04/May/96 2nd dnf
with Marti Hallett, John Burnip
Hidden ?/May/96 2nd
mattnuttall 01/Apr/96 Lead rpt
with Alan Holden
kevp ?/Apr/96 Lead O/S
with Dad
Jon Read ??/1996 Lead O/S
with Carla Trott
Rich Kirby ??/1996 -
Hidden ??/1996 -
John Southworth 16/Jul/95 Solo O/S
Chris the Tall ?/Jun/95 TR
with Bill G
goi.ashmore 07/May/95 Lead O/S
with Matt Hirst
Hidden ?/Apr/95 Lead O/S
astrecks 12/Mar/95 Lead dnf

Failed, miserably!

with Rod
nai ??/1995 Lead
channinga ??/1995 -
robtrooper ??/1995 -
mattnuttall 28/Jun/94 Solo rpt

trip with Rob Jamil and muge

AB1965 20/Jun/94 2nd

With Dave Turnball

Chris Ellis 20/Jun/94 Lead
with Gamba
Hidden ?/May/94 Lead O/S
mattnuttall 30/Apr/94 Solo rpt
ste_d 12/May/93 Lead O/S
with mik
mikedelderfield 01/May/93 2nd O/S
Dave Douglas 19/Apr/93 Lead O/S
mattnuttall ?/Mar/93 Solo rpt

scary solo actually... was given HVS but always thought it was tough for HVS leader!

IanD353 ??/1993 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1993 Solo
Chris Reid ?/Nov/92 Lead O/S
andybirtwistle 27/Sep/92 2nd
with John Earl
Hidden 19/Sep/92 2nd
Budge ?/Sep/92 Lead O/S
with Dave Wharton
NorthernRock ?/Sep/92 Lead
K1 ?/Jul/92 -
steve taylor ?/Jun/92 Lead dog
with stumpy
Tony Little 14/May/92 Lead O/S
with Sam
rockaddiction 01/May/92 Lead O/S
JSA ??/1992 -
WB ??/1992 Lead O/S
andy_pemberton ??/1992 Lead

Lobbed in 1992. Done properly some time later but no record.

Andrew Jennings ??/1992 TR O/S
with Wainy, Scott Gibson
Craig Barton ??/1992 Solo O/S
Roget 29/Dec/91 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/91 2nd rpt
NickJH ?/Aug/91 Lead O/S
with H Gott
mattnuttall 14/Jul/91 Lead β
with Matthieu Mounier
Hidden 29/Jun/91 2nd O/S
mattnuttall 20/Jun/91 Lead β
with Alan Holden
samt 25/Apr/91 Lead

At last.

JSA ??/1991 -
Gambit ??/1991 Lead O/S

On a LPMC trip

samt 18/Aug/90 TR


samt 24/Jul/90 TR
with James Ratcliffe
samt 21/Jul/90 TR
with Dad
Hidden 30/Jun/90 Lead
mattnuttall 12/May/90 2nd

Fell onto tied of rigid friend in roof break. Al probably footless!

with Alan Holden
Guy ??/1990 -
Marti999 ??/1990 Lead
Nick Rundall ??/1990 2nd O/S
mik1miller ??/1990 Lead O/S
with derek johnson, elliot blaylock
gordonday ??/1990 Lead β
Hidden ??/1990 -
Andy Say 23/Sep/89 Lead
surfbish ?/Aug/89 Lead O/S
phardman 03/Jun/89 Lead O/S
SPD224 ??/1988 Lead
Mike Owen 18/May/87 Solo
steve taylor ??/1987 -
Hidden ??/1987 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/86 2nd
Tom V 28/Jul/86 2nd
with Howie Darwin
Hidden 01/Jul/86 Lead
wynaptomos ?/Jul/86 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1986 Lead O/S
GordonHart ??/1986 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/1986 Lead
Pete Pozman 08/Nov/85 TR O/S
with John Byrne
John Marsland 05/Oct/85 Lead
with Dave Mould
Hidden 03/Jun/85 Lead
Sean Kelly ?/May/85 2nd
with Mike Connor
Hidden ?/May/85 -
TonyF ?/May/85 -
with Tony Cox
Hidden 26/Mar/85 2nd
Ian Clare ??/1985 -
shark 20/May/84 Lead O/S
with Simon Matthews
Hidden 04/Jun/83 Lead
Gezzer ??/1983 Lead
with Merv Dudley
Dave Musgrove 23/Oct/82 -
Ken Taylor 20/Sep/82 TR
stp 12/Jun/82 Lead

one fall trying to reverse. soloed lots since Aug 87

charlesmfrench 15/May/82 Lead O/S
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1982 Lead
Hidden ?/May/81 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/80 Lead
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
paul__in_sheffield ??/1980 Lead
Mike Owen 27/Oct/79 Lead O/S
with Gavin Peat
Mark Kemball 07/Oct/79 Lead
with Paul Clark
andy gittins ??/1979 -
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1978 -
with Dorothy Bogg, John Bogg
KRB 27/Nov/77 Lead O/S

Put a sling on the block and pulled over the overhang and instantly got pumped beyond belief. Blind panic alone got me up the route as I could't feel a thing and my brain had shut down. I was unable to stop to put runners in (pre-Cams)but fortunately managed to grovel my way to the top as a fall would have made a significant mess.

Canyak ??/1973 -
Tony Holdsworth 01/Jan/70 -
mikej 01/Dec/68 TR dnf
with ?
Hidden ??/1967 Lead dnf
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High E2
Mid E2
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 433
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 399
Votes cast 373
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set