Rockfax Description
Intimidating and memorable. From blocks, enter the leaning groove (poor wires) then climb to the roof. Swing right and scale the bulge - strenuous then delicate - to stand on the nose. Easier climbing remains - finishing up the centre of the face is the best option though the terminally harassed can escape left. © Rockfax

FA. Jim Perrin 1967

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Ultimate E3 ticklist, Sweet-Ass Stanage E3's.

MischaHY 08/Aug Lead O/S

Great fun. Certainly gear if you have tiny cams... I didn't. Super fun.

dr_botnik 04/May 2nd dog

Better gear than looked from the ground, small wires and cams. Pumped out on the nose, gutted as it was one pull then into balance. Good lead from Andy.

with Andy
Andy Peak 1 04/May Lead O/S

Not Bold with the rite gear.

M_Robinson 27/Mar 2nd O/S

Great lead from Jim, amazing moves low down

spidermonkey09 27/Mar Lead O/S

Nice! Pleased with this after a recent spate of falling off E3's. Gear is nowhere near as bad as has been suggested but by no means well protected either. Small cams helpful.

Tom Redmond 08/Mar Lead dog

rested on the gear before crux move- will get it clean next time! awesome route though

with sasha doyle, kelly campbell
Louishmouis ??/2015 Lead O/S
with Felix
Alistair Corbett 09/Nov/14 Lead O/S

on sams gear

with Sam hamer
markalmack 01/Nov/14 Lead O/S


with little tom
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 26/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Jon Box
Brown 24/Apr/14 Lead
with James T
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
Jimbo C 05/Oct/13 2nd

Steep! luckily for me the gear had already been stripped from the crux section by an unsuccessful second.

with dave
dannyboy83 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Intimidating but ultimately relatively easy

with Dougie
dswansonlow 05/Oct/13 2nd O/S
with Dan Barbour
Gudge 20/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Bark is much worse than it's bite! Holds are all there and quite positive - soft for 5c. One to lead next time.

Michael Allday 10/Nov/12 Lead O/S
phil64 18/Oct/12 Lead O/S


with tim neill
Harry Chaplin ?/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Harry Chaplin ?/Oct/12 Lead O/S
redjerry 11/Aug/12 TR O/S
Hidden 14/Jan/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jan/12 2nd dog
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 25/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/11 2nd dog
Milnes 21/Mar/11 2nd dog
jfane ??/2011 Lead O/S
Nick Sillem ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Dec/10 -
Hidden 20/Nov/10 Lead O/S
Cragrat Rich 07/Oct/10 Lead O/S

I'd be very wary of Franco's comments (naughty)... There's lots of worthwhile gear, particularly and crucially before the main difficulties, but also post crux. (beta on request ;) Very nice middle section.. Committing as hell, but felt brill!

Hidden 07/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hannes B 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Emmsi
Hidden 23/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/10 2nd
Rachel Slater 11/Mar/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Andrew Barker ??/2010 Lead O/S

A brilliant route. Year a guess.

natalietanzer 01/Oct/09 2nd
Ram MkiV 17/Sep/09 Lead O/S

wow, great climbing. that nose is a great feature and has lovely holds.

with Al
Alex Mason 04/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Psyched to have done this! great route, one of my favourites on grit. was all dry despite recent rain, gear adequate.

with mick radford
Hidden 06/Jun/08 2nd O/S
TomHaigh 01/May/08 2nd O/S
jamesturnbull 01/May/08 Lead
with aiden
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden 04/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 17/Jun/06 Lead O/S
dan gibson 24/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with martina
Boy ??/2006 -
Hidden ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
shark 07/Nov/04 Lead O/S
with Jon Winter
Hidden 29/Mar/03 2nd O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 12/May/01 Lead O/S
with Viv
Hidden ??/2000 -
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
dominic lee 17/Oct/97 Solo O/S
with Pete O'Donnovan
Roget 13/Oct/96 Lead O/S
with jon
uphillnow ??/1996 2nd

Seconded a number of times

with john stanger
Hidden ?/Jun/94 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/93 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
Mike Owen 18/May/87 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
Hidden ??/1983 Lead
Mark Kemball 12/May/82 Lead
Hidden ?/Oct/80 Lead O/S
Canyak ??/1973 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
MYox, Hidden, ashtond6, Hidden, Gabe Oliver, Ash Sayers, nai, rurp, Hidden, Hidden, Tangerine_Kingdom, Martin Davies, Michael Hood, Chi Cheng, richiebongo, Hidden, climbingrick, andymoin, Mr Powly, tatz45, Hidden
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 18
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 16
Style of ascent
Not Set
Not Set