Rockfax Description
A thugtastic roof-crack. Climb the right-hand thin crack into a cave (threads) then head outwards. A long reach gains the break above the lip where hard pulls are needed to gain easy ground. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1954

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day, Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Joe Brown's Three-Star Grit-List, Cracks And Corners To Greatness, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes, Stanage for Crack Apprentices.

TobyA 10/Oct 2nd dog

2 Falls/rests.

with SimonW
soph 27/Sep 2nd rpt
with Tony Stone
john lynch 10/Sep Lead dog

one fall. missed good hold in break.

with Joe Holden, Lewis Andrew
Hidden 27/Aug Lead O/S
Neil 24/Aug Lead dog

1 fall from a greasy jam in the roof. Strenuous!

Carl Watkins 24/Aug 2nd dog

had to hang to get cam out but did not fall

with Neil
FlavioL1989 11/Jul Lead O/S

See? I can climb roofs too. Nails.

rajeshwarbisht 11/Jul 2nd dnf
with Flavio
Brannock 23/Apr 2nd
Nick1812P 18/Apr Lead rpt
with Tom A
Teappleby 18/Apr 2nd

Did it on crunching jams rather than the long reaches that nick used.

Nick1812P 26/Mar Lead dnf

rounded off a terrible day for trad far too windy to be at stanage.

with speedy
Hidden ??/2015 -
Sam Simpson 02/Nov/14 Lead O/S
markalmack 01/Nov/14 Lead O/S


with little tom
Andy Peak 1 30/Sep/14 Lead

First route of the day to get the blood flowing:-)

dr_botnik 30/Sep/14 Lead dog
with Andy
Hidden 27/Sep/14 Lead β
Hidden 30/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Rachel Slater 18/May/14 Lead O/S
Matt Groom 18/May/14 Lead
Brannock 03/May/14 Lead dog

Reet hard, pumpy on big holds, brutal undercuts, small holds then a battle to mantle on to the break.

Hidden 03/May/14 2nd dnf
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
jrobbings ??/2014 2nd
Hidden 28/Sep/13 Lead rpt
Andy Peak 1 25/Sep/13 2nd
with Eszter
Haydn Jones 08/Sep/13 2nd O/S

didn't use a single jam, really pleasant climbing.

marcduhig 08/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Haydn
stuart34 12/Aug/13 Lead β

Kim's gear

with Kim Ladiges
Simon Davis ?/Aug/13 2nd
with Tim P
lewiz 22/Jul/13 Lead dnf
with Endre Joachim Mossige
deacondeacon 16/Jun/13 Lead

After failing on the unprintable. Had a load of gear in from partners attempt. Much nicer than it looks, don't think I jammed at all.

Dibdawg 27/Apr/13 Lead dnf
JamieSparkes 02/Mar/13 Lead dnf

got a little bit abused by this. despite being a roof crack, it doesn't climb like one at all. definitely one for cranking thugs. came off 3 times, the third resulted in a trip to the hallamshire :(

Hidden 29/Sep/12 Lead β
Joughton 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S

I thought this route was great, loads of fun and not too strenuous. Does thinking this was alright for E2 make me a thug? Didn't jam once.

Mr Wild 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
soph 15/Sep/12 Lead
with Lindy Smith
Ali.B 09/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with RobertCanavan
Andy Peak 1 06/May/12 Lead
pie_eater_pete 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
benkelsey 20/Mar/12 Lead β

lead on johnnys gear, wierdly didn't use a single jam. Good lead from johnny as placing the cams woulda have made it a lot harder for me. pretty pumpy but it does relent if you fight it hard enough.

with JRae
JRae 20/Mar/12 Lead

Really cool 3D climbing. Pretty tough! Went round twice because its so good!

Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
dannyboy83 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hannes B 14/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Tom
barni 04/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Bob, Tapper
Matt Cooke 17/Sep/11 Lead dnf
with Rosh
nige 17/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with mark hounslea
Matt Cooke 15/Sep/11 Lead dnf
climbinmunkey 03/Sep/11 Lead rpt

Done! Nearly got spat out by the crux again.

with Ken
dav 24/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Gill B
climbinmunkey 20/Aug/11 Lead dog

What a route! Fell trying to turn the lip then got back on and turned the lip only to pump out and take a massive fall. Gear at the start of the roof is bomber! Lowered off and climbed to the finish (yoyo style). Not that hard once you know where the holds are! Will be back for the clean lead.

with Andy
akhughes 17/Aug/11 2nd
Tony Holdsworth 17/Aug/11 2nd dog
with Peter Harris
Hidden 24/Jul/11 2nd
belay bunny turned bad 24/Jul/11 Lead
with loundsy
Brown 06/Jun/11 Lead
with Lilifa
Graeme Hammond 07/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Hard work, got to the lip fine, but was fairly pumped and though i was going to have to lob off, (too pumped to place gear + no big gear) then pulled up a bit a got a half jam in and it was game on... YES!!! Thanks to Becky for the belay and James for getting most of the gear out as it got dark and retrieving the abseil gear.

Hidden ??/2011 Lead
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
Tophe ??/2011 2nd O/S
with Dan
Hidden ?/Dec/10 -
Jack Loftus 24/Oct/10 2nd dnf
with Nick
Petarghh 24/Oct/10 2nd dnf

Rope in awkward position dragged me off... grrr !!

Hidden 24/Oct/10 Lead O/S
sam820 09/Oct/10 Lead dnf


with Fresher
Si dH 22/Aug/10 2nd β

After failing to lead (couple of falls, rests, eventually fought my way to the break but then decided to sack it and come down). Moves across the roof felt really hard but once Id got to the first break, on second the rest felt straightforward. Will come back soon to lead properly.

with Neil Furniss
Tightsgirl 16/Aug/10 2nd
with German Mountain Joe
Speeddemonsi 06/Aug/10 Lead
morganator 28/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Si Cooke, Martin Cooper
Hidden 03/Jul/10 Lead
Hidden 03/Jul/10 2nd dnf
Hidden 23/Jun/10 Lead O/S
nepsoi999 02/Jun/10 Lead dnf
with nadeem
datoon 09/May/10 Lead O/S
with K
nadeem 25/Apr/10 Lead dnf

Fucking nails. Will be back for this

mark20 08/Oct/09 2nd dnf
Hidden 08/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Jamie Goodwin 27/Sep/09 2nd
Alex Mason 17/Sep/09 Lead O/S

This absolutely fisted me. First bit of grit in a while, expected to cruise it, got pumped calves under the first roof then made it to the break hung around here for at least 20mins, my wrists got so pumped like jammie dodgers, finally did the move and nearly fell asleep stood in the break through exhaustion. LOLZ Goodbye grit. Also failed on cave eliminate.

feilx 13/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Andy L
Hidden 07/Sep/09 Lead dnf
Hidden 27/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Billg 06/Aug/09 Lead O/S

I put this off for years thinking it would be a fight, but it went without a struggle!

with Dave Gregory
Nicos 03/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Garry Wheeler
Tony Little 21/Apr/09 Lead rpt
with Dan
Hidden 01/Apr/09 Lead
kingholmesy ??/2009 2nd O/S
with Andy S
Hidden 24/Oct/08 Lead dog
French Erick 29/Sep/08 Lead dnf

cool moves but rain stopped my progress... not after I tried very hard to finish nonetheless and took 3 almighty wingers.

Brian Rodgers 02/Aug/08 Lead
with Louise Rodgers
Hidden 06/Jun/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/May/08 Lead RP
Hidden 22/Sep/07 Lead O/S
v.jester ?/Jul/07 Lead dog

Took 3 solid falls on this one. Nice and soft ones but still quite airy.

with Tom
Oceanic ?/Apr/07 -
craig matheson ?/Apr/07 Solo
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Pete Graham ??/2007 Lead
with Rick Graham
jamesturnbull ??/2007 -
Hidden 29/Oct/06 Lead dnf
Ram MkiV 25/May/06 Lead

Scene of previous failure. Not too bad this time.

with Tom
Boy ??/2006 -
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 04/May/05 2nd rpt
with Sam Chinnery
Hidden 22/May/04 Lead O/S
Mark Riley ?/Apr/04 Lead dog
with Richard Ibberson
Rik Dawes ??/2004 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Nov/03 Lead O/S
chris warner ?/Oct/03 2nd dog


with james raitt
shoulders 13/Sep/03 Lead O/S
with paul
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 26/Mar/03 Lead O/S
with Jon Box
Hidden 23/Sep/01 2nd
Hidden 15/Aug/01 2nd
goi.ashmore 19/Mar/00 Lead RP
with Myles Jordan
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
Simon Pearce ??/1999 -
uphillnow ??/1999 Lead

seconded in late 70's and lead it in mid 80's but cant find date. Lead in 1990s with at least three friends following. Cams make the top section easier than it was in the past

CrashMat Rob 02/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with Nicky
CrashMat Rob 18/Jul/98 Lead dog
with Nicky
Hidden 26/Jun/98 Lead
Jon Read ??/1997 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/96 -
Roget 05/Nov/95 Lead rpt
with jon
Cowflinger ?/May/95 Lead
Roget 16/Jan/94 Lead dog
Rich Kirby 06/Jun/93 Lead O/S
with Phil
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
mik1miller ??/1990 Lead O/S
with derek johnson, elliot blaylock
charlesmfrench ??/1990 Lead
Hidden 07/Jun/88 Lead dog
shark 27/Sep/87 Lead
with Seb Grieve
sadams ?/Sep/87 Lead
with Mark Bonham
Rob Davies ?/Jul/87 2nd dog

OK until I got to the lip but then I ran out of strength and ideas. At least my performance gave Boris something to laugh about.

Hidden 23/May/87 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 18/May/87 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
shark 27/Jun/86 Lead dnf
with Seb Grieve
Hidden ??/1986 Lead
Ian Clare ??/1985 -
Dave Musgrove 24/Jul/83 Lead
with Kim Greenald
Hidden ??/1983 Lead
stp 12/Jun/82 Lead

Strenuous - took a few falls

Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1982 Lead
with Bob Higginbotham
Ian Clare ??/1982 -
Hidden 09/Jun/80 2nd
KRB 29/May/80 Lead O/S
with Mike Bridges
mike bridges 29/May/80 2nd O/S
Mark Kemball 01/Mar/80 Lead
paul__in_sheffield ??/1980 Lead
petemeads ??/1974 Lead
Canyak ??/1973 -
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Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
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