Rockfax Description
An all-time classic. Climb the arete, past a tricky overlap, to the big roof. Traverse left then grope up for good jams. Swiftly get established on the final wall then finish easily. © Rockfax
FA. Barry Webb 1964.
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User | Date | Notes | ||
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Ariegeois | 22 Nov, 2022 |
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βeta: Seeing Barry Webb solo this most Saturday nights after a skinful in the Scotsman's Pack was one of the highlights of my gritstone youth! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Seeing Barry Webb solo this most Saturday nights after a skinful in the Scotsman's Pack was one of the highlights of my gritstone youth! |
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Ben Rowland | 28 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: My Beta: do traverse quickly, both hands on poor break, high right foot, right hand into full crimp side pull, move left hand right, go for top of crack with right hand. | ||
Show beta
βeta: My Beta: do traverse quickly, both hands on poor break, high right foot, right hand into full crimp side pull, move left hand right, go for top of crack with right hand. |
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Jus | 13 Jun, 2006 |
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βeta: A friend in the lower wall, a nut before you traverse left and a medium cam in the roof below the rockover. Sorted. Best E1 I've done. | ||
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βeta: A friend in the lower wall, a nut before you traverse left and a medium cam in the roof below the rockover. Sorted. Best E1 I've done. |
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MeMeMe | 15 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: The gear on the traverse didn't look all that good to me, I tried to fiddle in a small cam but gave up. I guess you might be able to get one in the best hold on the traverse, but I wanted to use that for my hand! Bomber gear for the crux (small cam in crack and a bigger one in the break above), and fantastic move up from the jams. | ||
Show beta
βeta: The gear on the traverse didn't look all that good to me, I tried to fiddle in a small cam but gave up. I guess you might be able to get one in the best hold on the traverse, but I wanted to use that for my hand! Bomber gear for the crux (small cam in crack and a bigger one in the break above), and fantastic move up from the jams. |
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cem | 16 Mar, 2005 |
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βeta: Is the cam protection that good? I've witnessed someone fall off at the end of the traverse, rip out several cams & do a massive pendulum. His feet were almost scraping the ground! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Is the cam protection that good? I've witnessed someone fall off at the end of the traverse, rip out several cams & do a massive pendulum. His feet were almost scraping the ground! |
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Garan | 10 Jun, 2004 |
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βeta: Did it last night (09/06/04). No thread. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Did it last night (09/06/04). No thread. |
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stow | 22 Apr, 2003 |
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βeta: WARNING - GEAR BETA FOLLOWS: Unsolicited gear beta is bad, but since the last guy broke his ankle... I was able to protect the traverse with an ok small cam in one of the handholds on the traverse (green alien?) and if there is no thread a yellow alien in the crack splitting the roof is bomber, as is a no. 2 red camalot in the big break above the roof. Nice route. | ||
Show beta
βeta: WARNING - GEAR BETA FOLLOWS: Unsolicited gear beta is bad, but since the last guy broke his ankle... I was able to protect the traverse with an ok small cam in one of the handholds on the traverse (green alien?) and if there is no thread a yellow alien in the crack splitting the roof is bomber, as is a no. 2 red camalot in the big break above the roof. Nice route. |
The route numbers of these two routes are switched. Descriptions are fine but Tippler is route 5 line and Paranoid breaks right along the lip as indicated by the route 6 line.
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Stanage Plantation)