Central Icefall Direct*** VI 6
[Starting out on Central Icefall Direct, 2 kb]3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The one route that everyone wants to do. If it is in condition (rarely) then get up early and get ready to queue. Worth the wait though!
1) 5, 30m. Climb the icefall on the front of the pedestal to a ledge belay
2) 6, 40m. A long, pumpy pitch up the steep icefall above leads to a belay either left or right of the icicle, depending on conditions
3) 6, 30m. Tackle the overhanging icicle direct!
3a) 6, 35m. If the icicle hasn't formed thick enough for your mate to lead it, you can sneak left to join Chequered Wall, which is sometimes 'in nick' when the main icicle isn't. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Cold Climbs, King of the Pass!.

Photo: Starting out on Central Icefall Direct © TonyM
View all 8 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 18 logbooks, and on 15 wishlists.

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Apr/13

Luke Brooks - AltLd O/S - 03/Apr/13 with Glyn Hudson, John Orr

Awesome! First pitch was not as thing as it looked. I Lead middle pitch, steep and sustained with good ice and screws. Top pitch was short but wild and memorable. Great little morning excursion, back in Beris for afternoon coffee!
Glyn - AltLd O/S - 03/Apr/13 with John Orr, Luke

innes - AltLd O/S - 02/Apr/13 with Ralph

adie84 - 2011

centurion05 - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Amazing! Lived up to it's reputation. Climbing the pillar at the top was a dream come true! Second pitch in particular felt pretty spicy - lots of shit ice - but I suppose grade VI is bound to feel spicy unless you're a complete wad.
Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 26/Dec/10 with Yash

A climb that trully lives upto: There is no shame in fear...only in giving into it!
yashvi - 2nd - 26/Dec/10 with Adam Booth

Led pitches 1 and 3
akhughes - AltLd O/S - 06/Dec/10 with Steptoe

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Jan/10

Hidden - 12/Jan/10

stevebarratt - AltLd O/S - 11/Jan/10 with Rob Bryniarski

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Jan/10

pretty exciting in the dark! end to a fantastic two and a half days climbing, cascade the appendix and then this.
phil64 - Lead - Jan/10 with alex

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Jan/97

Pitch 1
phardman - Lead - 04/Jan/97 with Dr Dan

Winter 1985/6
ChrisJD - 2nd - 1986 with PaulMet

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
CM1992, dswansonlow, squicky, Double Knee Bar, Tom Livingstone, Dr Caterpillar
Total votes cast 19
hard VII0 of 6
VII0 of 6
easy VII0 of 6
hard VI4 of 6
VI2 of 6
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V0 of 6
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hard 70 of 6
70 of 6
easy 70 of 6
hard 60 of 6
66 of 6
easy 60 of 6
hard 50 of 6
50 of 6
easy 50 of 6
3 Stars7 of 7
2 Stars0 of 7
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