A tough route, and one that is steeped in traditional climbing. Start below the horrific-looking overhanging chimney groove.
1) 5b, 30m. Move up into the chimney until you are forced to back-and-foot and continue to where the chimney closes. Escape into a crack on the right wall, and follow this up to a groove. When you are level with the top of the chimney/crack, make a wild move down and left to a hidden jug. Step across onto the steep slab on the left, and pull into the groove that is the continuation of the chimney. Move up this for a few metres and then traverse across the slab to below a smaller groove and ascend this to a small stance. A long pitch that eats as much gear as you can throw at it.
2) 4c, 15m. Follow the easier groove to the grassy ledge.
3) 20m. Traverse right across the ledge as for The Hustler P3.
4) 35m. As for Nightride P4. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
THe wide overhanging chimney left of Scavenger.
Peter Crew and Jancis Baldock 1966
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
|Ally Baba||08/Aug||Lead O/S|
|Duncan Campbell||26/May/14||Lead O/S||
Erghh very wet but in better nick than yesterday and still climbable. Did the direct groove finish which makes it a solid E1 I reckon. Take lots of cams if this is near your limit!
Led 2nd pitch. Tough 1st pitch, E1.
Down as E1 in our guide and felt hard for that! Had to sit on the rope to get a quickdraw off some tat in the back of the chimney - not quite sure how Will managed to clip it on lead! Led P2.