UKC Logbook - 'Gullible's Travels'

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Derbyshire > Stanage Popular >

Gullible's Travels

E1 5b

Adjacent Climbs
<< Randolf Cheerleader

Al >>

10m. From the centre of the wall, trend right delicately with hard moves to reach a shallow crack and then easier ground. Pleasantly technical climbing protected by small Friends. © ROCKFAX
FA. Brian Pallet 1963

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, Stanage Routes Graded List.

Photo: Edd cruises up a little gem! © Neil Morbey
Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS

This climb is in 223 logbooks, and on 8 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead dnf - 07/May/13

simon1965 - 2nd - 01/May/13 with dom

domskezz - Lead O/S - 01/May/13 with Si

solo above pads, landing much flatter than normal due to snow and Marks efforts at platforming :)
Graeme Hammond - Solo rpt - 06/Apr/13

Hidden - Solo - 04/Apr/13

eel - Lead O/S - 18/Nov/12

Andrew Sloan - 2nd dog - 06/Oct/12 with Martin Haworth

Small cam placements are not great, try a No1 rock light
Martin Haworth - Lead β - 06/Oct/12 with Andy

Mowglee - 2nd O/S - 29/Sep/12 with Sasha, Tom Nichols

Good lead by Steve in the cold. Small cams are a bit crap, Rock 1 or 2 might be better.
Chris Craggs - 2nd - 23/Sep/12 with Steve Cunnington

Gudge - Lead O/S - Aug/12 with Woodsy

deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/12

Haydn Jones - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/12 with deacon, duncan

Hidden - 2nd dog - 15/Apr/12

Tired - one of those days !
derekb - Lead dnf - 30/Mar/12 with Nick

friend placements crumbled where they matter. better to press on before you pump out.
rurp - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/12

Higher break now badly scarred - handholds full of grit/sand when I reached where Edd is in Neil Morbey's photo. I used a Friend 2.5 and a small wire to protect the subsequent move up + R. Last route of a '10-star' day, mostly @ 5b - and definitely the hardest.
Falko - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/12 with Al W.

Clay C - 2nd O/S - 10/Mar/12 with Jay

Jay C - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/12 with Clay C

Bruce Houston - Lead rpt - Mar/12

Tony Kartawick - 2012

john lynch - 2nd O/S - 21/Nov/11 with Lewis Andrew

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/11

Hidden - TR - 06/Nov/11

Def harder than it looks.
RiverRoam - 2nd β - 06/Nov/11 with Martin Wing

Ben1983 - Lead O/S - 30/Oct/11

rob wmc - TR O/S - 30/Oct/11 with Alan, Dave

Curly Rich - 2nd dog - 22/Oct/11 with Kyle

Kyle Rance - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/11 with Scott Purdy

first lead fall a year or so ago, took one fall at crux, got pumped and peeled off. very nice route!1
Tom Redmond - Lead RP - 28/Sep/11 with craig morrison

Aided the crux, seemed incredibly hard, has it lost a hold or something?!?!
Jack Whiteley - 2nd dog - 09/Sep/11 with Scott and Paul

Tamati - 2nd - 09/Sep/11

Shit gear with nasty reachy balancy climbing, tough until a good hold is gained, i wont say where.
Jonathan Hall - Lead - 09/Sep/11 with Will Ward

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/11

tradguy - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/11 with Ed Lamb

ed_1973 - 2nd - 27/Aug/11 with paul highams

al123 - Solo - 24/Aug/11

mic_b - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/11 with Ady

finally did the lead in one push.
leon - Lead rpt - 13/Aug/11 with Andy Bell

Pike - TR dnf - 31/Jul/11

benkelsey - Solo O/S - 22/Jul/11

Sam Cooke - 2nd - 30/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/11

Si Croft - 2nd - 30/Jun/11 with Bernie

Hidden - Lead dnf - 18/Jun/11

adamjeffs - Lead dnf - 16/Jun/11

Rested after placing small cam in the top break, lowered off and tried again, fell on crux above.
Neil Pacey - Lead dnf - 21/May/11 with Tanya Savage

JYates - Lead dog - 19/May/11 with Alan Caley

Bigish fall twice on a 0,2 cam, bomber placement and still really enjoyed!
cheeky - Lead dnf - 07/May/11 with Mark Philipson

psychicbread - 2nd O/S - 29/Apr/11 with Max

mattparratt - 2nd - 28/Apr/11

Took over the lead from Mark who already had placed gear to and for the crux! Still to pumped and needed a rest to make the move! First Atempt at an E1 and I will get this next trip in May
cheeky - Lead dog - 14/Apr/11 with Mark Philipson, Michel

Hidden - 2nd β - 14/Apr/11

Attempted for my first E1 lead. protected with small cams, but forearms screaming before final hard move. matt finished for me. Next time!
mark4344 - Lead dnf - 14/Apr/11 with Michel, Matt Payne

Goose4 - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/11 with Tom Adams

hard apparantly
going going gone - Lead β - 01/Apr/11

rikbattye - Solo O/S - 29/Mar/11

Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/11 with Preston Matt

tomthecoolperson - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/11 with Andrew

Clean
galpinos - 2nd - 06/Mar/11 with Ben T

Fell off at the upper crux first go, then on the initial slab the second go. Getting dark, so another attempt not possible. Hard for 5b I reckon.
Submit to Gravity - TR dog - 03/Mar/11 with Phil Lucas

Hard move up on small slopers.
gazfellows - Lead O/S - 12/Feb/11 with shaun d

thekendo - 2nd rpt - 23/Jan/11 with attila forbaur

Andy Peak 1 - 2nd - 23/Jan/11 with Atila

David Smith - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - Dec/10

Got footwork a bit wrong...
BeccaSnowden - 2nd dog - 20/Oct/10 with Alan Saul

fatbuoybazza - Lead dnf - 11/Oct/10 with Mikael

Maybe a bit of an ask being my second grit route and in mederterainean heat. Rested once.
geoff.comley - Lead dog - 11/Oct/10 with Antony Mckenzie

damp smears :(
JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Nick

Nick1812P - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Jamie

akhughes - Solo O/S - 27/Aug/10

drcorbasisgod - 2nd O/S - 07/Aug/10 with Mark O'Neill

Dogmusher - Lead - 07/Aug/10 with chris parson

Reachy moves from good handholds and smears.
Andrew Barker - Solo O/S - 31/Jul/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/Jul/10

did realy follow the line came in from the E3 on the left by a funky travese along break.
Marti999 - Lead rpt - 17/Jul/10 with Gary Jackson

cobweb - Lead rpt - 10/Jul/10 with Roger Waterworth

Dave Mason - Lead RP - 06/Jul/10 with Trev Tatler

Marc Murphy - TR - Jul/10

This route always beats me!!! I just cannot bring myself to have faith in those cams!!!! Retreated before the crux & then did it on top rope. Maybe next time?
leon - Lead - 20/Jun/10 with Chris Munton

Ky - Lead dnf - 17/Jun/10 with Tim

Glad the BD 000 held!
slacky - Lead dog - 15/Jun/10 with Nick Taylor

slacky - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/10 with Nick Taylor, Tim

Graeme Hammond - Lead rpt - 11/Jun/10 with Richard

nadeem - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/10 with James Morrison

Backed off - crap gear in the break that i didnt trust
freddieneame10 - Lead dnf - Jun/10

Bern - 2nd - May/10 with Peter Brown

Hidden - Solo O/S - 25/Apr/10

Backed off! Gear wasn't good so wasn't happy. Only third lead (and first E1) of the season.
DavidR - Lead dnf - 06/Apr/10 with Holly Adamthwaite

simonp - Lead O/S - Apr/10 with Annelies Sarrazyn

Hidden - Lead RP - Apr/10

Hidden - Lead - 23/Mar/10

bullwinkle - 2nd rpt - 21/Mar/10 with John

Matt Bennett - Solo O/S - 09/Mar/10 with Sam Corbett

Did it with an injured knee which made them moves feel a bit akward. Gear wasn't great.
Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - 15/Nov/09 with Mike Todd

Cam protecting crux looked a bit iffy but really nice balancy climbing
mark20 - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/09

Hidden - Lead - 04/Oct/09

crimpy - TR O/S - Oct/09

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Sep/09

First E1 onsight! Very bad cam placements in the break before the crux, pulled the cam out as i went past it, fortunately a number 2 offset peenut protects.
sammo247 - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead - 25/Jul/09

slipped off at half hight and landed next to the belayer(the gear was good and stayed in thank god)
raptorheli - Lead dnf - 15/Jul/09

Couldn't find a cam placement I was happy with
Whealiebob - Lead dnf - 09/Jul/09 with Stee

Tim M - Lead O/S - Jul/09 with Nick

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/May/09

Seemed quite tough for E1 - hard 5b and very small gear, good lead by Neil
Si dH - 2nd O/S - 10/May/09 with Neil Furniss

no problems this time, after farcical attempt last year,
Pilch - Lead rpt - 02/Apr/09 with Graham

While the rope was there
Alan James - UKC and UKH - TR - 15/Mar/09

Twisty - 2nd O/S - 01/Mar/09 with Byron Buck

Good tactics on this; climb up, place gear, climb down, climb up, place gear, climb down, repeat until I did it!
Byronius Maximus - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/09 with Alex Twist

Glad to have got this after I bottled it once before. Rested for about a second on a very bad micro. I don't think that the cams are very good on this, wouldn't want to fall off.
Southern Man - Lead - 30/Dec/08 with Denise

Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - 06/Dec/08 with dave

dave_middleton - 2nd O/S - 06/Dec/08 with Marek & Martin

Graeme Hammond - 2nd O/S - 28/Sep/08 with Barra

One fall then sorted it out!
bridget143 - 2nd dog - 10/Sep/08 with Brown

Brown - Solo O/S - 08/Sep/08

Hard delicate section just above the gear, made a scary top end E1.
clive-greenwood - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/08 with Mike Nuttall

MikeLeeds - 2nd O/S - 08/Sep/08 with Clive Greenwood

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/Aug/08

givemetea - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/08 with Craig Jenkins

Stood around for quite a while on the undercuts before finding the decent hold for the crux move. Nice route, wish it was longer.
adam carless - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/08 with James Rowe

First outdoor fall. Got back on and finished.
Submit to Gravity - 2nd dog - 17/Jun/08 with Matt

madmats - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/08 with wayne

dan gibson - Solo O/S - 07/Jun/08

PenJD - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/08 with Heather Swift

Easier to second.
Jon_Warner - 2nd β - 06/Jun/08 with Dave Pattinson

derico - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/08 with Sadact

Franco Cookson OLD - Solo O/S - 04/Jun/08

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Jun/08

Reversed the start for a re-think. Became a pumpy little number mainly due to hangin around on undercuts to contemplate the crux, which was hard in the conditions. Felt more like 5c
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/08

Well, bit of a mess up here, faffed with gear before crux, did not find good hold in thin layaway, rested on gear, went for it , found hold but somehow managed to clip karabiner on cam placement through belay device on muy harness as i moved up, realised that i could not move up, fell on gear which ripped out and ended up dangling a few inches above the ground. Will come and do this again but need a smaller cam.
Pilch - Lead dnf - 15/May/08 with Graham

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Apr/08

Nicos - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/08 with simon shaw

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 10/Feb/08

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/08

Jim Walton - 2008

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Hidden - 2008

LankyPaddy - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/07 with Sophie Price

SKippy5 - 2nd - 06/Oct/07 with Ed Northridge

Hidden - Lead RP - 09/Sep/07

Didn't trust my gear (the friend placements are not as good as the guide suggests), and backed off twice from the final rockover at the end of the crux sequence.
Stuart S - Lead dnf - 31/Aug/07 with Amanda Lyons

Hidden - 18/Aug/07

bullwinkle - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/07 with Paul

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/07

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Jun/07

max_chan - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/07 with Lou

Really pleased with the lead. Got VERY pumped fiddling in gear, and could barely hold on by the time I topped out.
Nick Smith - UKC - Lead rpt - 11/Apr/07 with Amanda Newham

craig matheson - Solo - Apr/07

alaan - Lead O/S - 18/Feb/07 with Dave

Hammy - 2nd - 18/Feb/07

Hidden - 2007

A bit thin to say the least... i wish i was a little bit taller, i wish i was a baller, i wish i had a rabbit in a hat...
loonyclimber - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/06 with Jen Green

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo rpt - 24/Jun/06

Stig - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/06 with Les

howlingbaboon - TR - Jun/06 with Rob

Rampikino - 2nd - 15/Apr/06 with Rob Wilson & Mark Hills

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/06

wasted too long hanging around wishing the gear was better to get the onsight :(. At least I managed to get up the thing on the lead which is more than I was to manage in the years to come!!
leon - Lead dog - Apr/06 with Andy Bell

Hidden - Lead - Apr/06

Boy - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Dec/05

ASchwirtz - 2nd O/S - 25/Sep/05

Pythonist - Lead O/S - Aug/05

Hidden - Lead β - 28/Nov/04

Adam Potter - 2nd - 08/Aug/04

Hidden - TR - 28/Jul/04

darren1 - 04/Jun/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/May/04

Hidden - Lead - 01/May/04

jonnyboy - Lead O/S - 2004 with Daniel Armitage