Rockfax Description
From the centre of the wall, trend right delicately with hard moves to reach a shallow crack and then easier ground. Pleasantly technical climbing protected by small cams. © Rockfax

FA. Brian Pallet 1963

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes.

Dave Warburton 25/Oct Lead O/S
K Farrell 25/Oct 2nd
martinbettridge06 17/Oct Lead
Ian Saxton 17/Oct 2nd dog
with martin, dave
david harvey 17/Oct 2nd O/S
with martin,Ian
Hidden 11/Sep -
Steven1993 11/Sep Lead O/S

Nice route, would've liked to have had a smaller cam.

Hidden ?/Sep -
alex goodall 29/Aug Lead dnf

Micro cams in break before the crux are very sketchy, crack is very worn. Fell on the crux moves above, cam ripped and ended up with my ass around 20cm above the floor. Clean pants needed

with Shannyb
Gambit 27/Aug 2nd O/S
with Mark Leicester, Royston
Hidden 27/Aug 2nd β
rajeshwarbisht 16/Aug 2nd dog
with Flavio
FlavioL1989 16/Aug Lead O/S
adam clarke 15/Aug TR
with Adam Lynch
CaelanB 02/Aug 2nd dog

seconded in the dark without a head torch or chalk, hence the dogging

with Sachi
jsmcfarland 02/Aug Lead O/S

Led it in the dark. Had to borrow Caelan's chalk bag which pretty much sandbagged him when he climbed up after me, plus he didn't have a headtorch. Sorry mate! Protection is a little sparse and not totally solid, crux move is also a bit tenuous. My first E1 5b on grit and it had to be this!.....

with Caelan
watson.b 21/Jul 2nd O/S
with Mark
Jimbo C 11/Jul Lead dog

Damn. Took a rest at the mid height break due to less stamina and less bravado than expected. Steepr and thinner than it looks. I'll be back.

with Chris
cragsman9000 04/Jun Lead O/S
with Neil
bob_cbr 04/Jun 2nd dog

So close, just did the crux move wrong. Easy once I got my right foot more under me and my left hand on the correct hold.

andyob 25/May Lead O/S
with Ste, Calder
Calder 25/May 2nd
with Andy OB, Ste
stemill 25/May 2nd
Mowglee 24/May Lead rpt
with Antonio
Budge 15/May 2nd rpt
with Ade
buxtoncoffeelover 07/May 2nd
with Ralph
ralphio 07/May Lead G/U

Fell on this last year. Went easy this time.

with Nik
Mark Warnett ?/May Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Apr 2nd
Chris M 15/Apr -
Hidden 15/Apr 2nd rpt
Angus Taylor 14/Apr Lead dog

dogged the first attempt, then fell and ripped a cam in an effort to RP, so left it

James rogers86 14/Apr Lead β

Tricky little climb you get pumped when your trying to place gear in the second break.

Mark Duncan 14/Apr Lead β

on preplaced gear. A few hard moves, but over quickly

Smelly Fox 13/Apr Lead O/S
islandlynx 15/Feb TR

didn't like the look of the cams in important the break

waydan 23/Nov/14 Lead

Lovely stiff climb, crap gear on second break.

Hidden 09/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Sam Simpson 03/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Nov/14 2nd O/S
Lenny 01/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with Kev
Radical-G 31/Oct/14 Lead RP
Hoyes 27/Sep/14 Lead dog
Batt 27/Sep/14 2nd β

Seconded dean having failed to lead. Fairly safe with little cams but tick fingers in the hole, not gear!! Another time maybe.

mark4344 12/Sep/14 Lead rpt
with derek, Matt Payne
scarmichael 07/Sep/14 Lead rpt

if you can ignore the sketcy gear this is a very enjoyable route. getting away from the midges was an added incentive to send the route

sibluer 28/Aug/14 Lead
callum2806 28/Aug/14 2nd
Hidden 24/Aug/14 2nd RP
Jake Young 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Ondrea, Alex Banks
Albachoss 16/Aug/14 Lead β
robblowen 09/Aug/14 2nd β
with Jonny
ashtond6 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Surprisingly pumpy! Great moves

Hidden 04/Aug/14 Lead dog
Neil R 03/Aug/14 2nd
with Tim
Hidden 03/Aug/14 Lead RP
robman 22/Jun/14 Solo O/S
Matthew Ferrier 13/Jun/14 Solo rpt
Trixster 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S

First E1 for a while, only second trad session of the year. Felt a little sketchy but went ok after some faff with the cams. Good climbing.

with Tara Cochrane
Jenny Clarke 26/May/14 2nd
Chriswallis2 26/May/14 Lead O/S
with Jenny
the power 13/May/14 Lead dnf

Fell off then it pissed down so I couldn't try again

with rob
NickstaDB 04/May/14 Lead dnf

I prepared my rack for this one with small cams at the front either side. I placed a DMM Demon 1.5 cam in the first break before climbing up and down to the second break repeatedly trying to work out the holds and the second gear placement whilst getting insanely pumped. I ended up placing a desperate Demon 2.0 from below which gave me the confidence to work through some of the nicest moves I've done on a trad route before hitting the crux and struggling to move up whilst so pumped out. I yelled "take" to watch the second cam pop and desperately tried to climb down before taking my first trad fall. It wasn't high at all but it was still terrifying! I opened my eyes to find that Demon 1.5 holding strong but that was enough climbing for me that day. I will be back!

marcduhig 04/May/14 Solo O/S
WillDoyle 02/May/14 Solo
Derek Furze 23/Apr/14 Lead
with Paul Mitchell
batterj2 12/Apr/14 2nd dog
with Simon Kimber
Hidden 12/Apr/14 Lead β
Chris M 09/Apr/14 AltLd
with Mark H
stephenhartley 09/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Burns
Hidden 04/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Mar/14 2nd O/S
pie_eater_pete 05/Mar/14 Lead
with bwestwood
fjg123 ?/Mar/14 -
Alex Thompson 02/Jan/14 Lead dnf

Backed off the reachy moves.

Hidden ??/2014 -
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
Matthew Ferrier 17/Dec/13 Solo O/S
with Ben, Nick
will_benfold 20/Oct/13 Lead dnf
with Dan Wilcox
chrisbartlett 17/Oct/13 TR
dr_botnik 08/Oct/13 Lead dog
the power 08/Oct/13 Lead dnf

slack bastad

with Andy, rob
Hidden 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 05/Oct/13 Solo O/S
Kim M 05/Oct/13 Lead RP
with Nige
gavinpeach 28/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Well protected with zero cams. Delicate moves up the slab.

with Dan
grakgrak 14/Sep/13 Lead

Cams in the break were good but rested on rope before doing crux

with nicktong
davebrox 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Fiona
kyaizawa 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Tim Roe, Sophie Cheng
jshields 19/Jun/13 Lead

First done Feb.'97, the break has seen a lot of wear since then making it quite difficult to place small cams.

with Paul Tretheway, Ed James
tobydunford 16/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
Andy Clarke 09/Jun/13 Lead rpt

Found most of the difficulty lay in the gear placement rather than the climbing. Worth fiddling in a good zero cam, but significantly more strenuous from one side than the other. Nice moves - providing you're not pumped!

with Alex
Hidden 01/Jun/13 Lead
climberchristy 31/May/13 Lead rpt

A lovely little climb. Done it several times before. Did as 11th and last route of a brilliant sunny Stanage day out.

with Ben Cole
colin milton 31/May/13 Lead dnf
with colin D
Hidden 07/May/13 Lead dnf
simon1965 01/May/13 2nd
with dom
domskezz 01/May/13 Lead O/S
with Si
Graeme Hammond 06/Apr/13 Solo rpt

solo above pads, landing much flatter than normal due to snow and Marks efforts at platforming :)

LakesWinter 04/Apr/13 Solo

Snowy landing.

with Mark R
mikealexpayne ??/2013 2nd
AlanPedrick ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden 18/Nov/12 Lead O/S
Andrew Sloan 06/Oct/12 2nd dog
Martin Haworth 06/Oct/12 Lead β

Small cam placements are not great, try a No1 rock light

with Andy
Mowglee 29/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Sasha, Tom Nichols
Chris Craggs 23/Sep/12 2nd

Good lead by Steve in the cold. Small cams are a bit crap, Rock 1 or 2 might be better.

with Steve Cunnington
Gudge ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Woodsy
mjeffery 27/Jun/12 Lead O/S
deacondeacon 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Haydn Jones 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with deacon, duncan
Hidden 15/Apr/12 2nd dog
derekb 30/Mar/12 Lead dnf

Tired - one of those days !

with Nick
rurp 20/Mar/12 Lead O/S

friend placements crumbled where they matter. better to press on before you pump out.

Falko 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Higher break now badly scarred - handholds full of grit/sand when I reached where Edd is in Neil Morbey's photo. I used a Friend 2.5 and a small wire to protect the subsequent move up + R. Last route of a '10-star' day, mostly @ 5b - and definitely the hardest.

with Al W.
Clay C 10/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Jay
Jay C 10/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Clay C
Bruce Houston ?/Mar/12 Lead rpt
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
john lynch 21/Nov/11 2nd O/S
with Lewis Andrew
Hidden 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Nov/11 TR
RiverRoam 06/Nov/11 2nd β

Def harder than it looks.

Ben1983 30/Oct/11 Lead O/S
rob wmc 30/Oct/11 TR O/S
with Alan, Dave
Curly Rich 22/Oct/11 2nd dog
with Kyle
Kyle Rance 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Scott Purdy
Tom Redmond 28/Sep/11 Lead RP

first lead fall a year or so ago, took one fall at crux, got pumped and peeled off. very nice route!1

with craig morrison
Jack Whiteley 09/Sep/11 2nd dog

Aided the crux, seemed incredibly hard, has it lost a hold or something?!?!

with Scott and Paul
Tamati 09/Sep/11 2nd
Jonathan Hall 09/Sep/11 Lead

Shit gear with nasty reachy balancy climbing, tough until a good hold is gained, i wont say where.

with Will Ward
Hidden 09/Sep/11 Lead O/S
tradguy 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Ed Lamb
ed_1973 27/Aug/11 2nd
al123 24/Aug/11 Solo
mic_b 17/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Ady
leon 13/Aug/11 Lead rpt

finally did the lead in one push.

Pike 31/Jul/11 TR dnf
benkelsey 22/Jul/11 Solo O/S
Sam Cooke 30/Jun/11 2nd
Hidden 30/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Si Croft 30/Jun/11 2nd
with Bernie
adamjeffs 16/Jun/11 Lead dnf
Neil Pacey 21/May/11 Lead dnf

Rested after placing small cam in the top break, lowered off and tried again, fell on crux above.

JYates 19/May/11 Lead dog
with Alan Caley
cheeky 07/May/11 Lead dnf

Bigish fall twice on a 0,2 cam, bomber placement and still really enjoyed!

psychicbread 29/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Max
mattparratt 28/Apr/11 2nd
cheeky 14/Apr/11 Lead dog

Took over the lead from Mark who already had placed gear to and for the crux! Still to pumped and needed a rest to make the move! First Atempt at an E1 and I will get this next trip in May

with Mark Philipson, Michel
Hidden 14/Apr/11 2nd β
mark4344 14/Apr/11 Lead dnf

Attempted for my first E1 lead. protected with small cams, but forearms screaming before final hard move. matt finished for me. Next time!

with Michel, Matt Payne
Goose4 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S
going going gone 01/Apr/11 Lead β

hard apparantly

rikbattye 29/Mar/11 Solo O/S
Owen W-G 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S
tomthecoolperson 25/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Andrew
galpinos 06/Mar/11 2nd


with Ben T
Yanis Nayu 03/Mar/11 TR dog

Fell off at the upper crux first go, then on the initial slab the second go. Getting dark, so another attempt not possible. Hard for 5b I reckon.

with Phil Lucas
gazfellows 12/Feb/11 Lead O/S

Hard move up on small slopers.

with shaun d
thekendo 23/Jan/11 2nd rpt
Andy Peak 1 23/Jan/11 2nd
with Atila
uphillnow ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ?/Dec/10 -
BeccaSnowden 20/Oct/10 2nd dog

Got footwork a bit wrong...

Reaver2k 20/Oct/10 Lead
fatbuoybazza 11/Oct/10 Lead dnf
with Mikael
geoff.comley 11/Oct/10 Lead dog

Maybe a bit of an ask being my second grit route and in mederterainean heat. Rested once.

with Antony Mckenzie
JamieSparkes 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S

damp smears :(

with Nick
Nick1812P 28/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Jamie
akhughes 27/Aug/10 Solo O/S
drcorbasisgod 07/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Dogmusher 07/Aug/10 Lead
with chris parson
Andrew Barker 31/Jul/10 Solo O/S

Reachy moves from good handholds and smears.

Hidden 17/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Marti999 17/Jul/10 Lead rpt

did realy follow the line came in from the E3 on the left by a funky travese along break.

with Gary Jackson
cobweb 10/Jul/10 Lead rpt
with Roger Waterworth
Dave Mason 06/Jul/10 Lead RP
with Trev Tatler
Dave Mason 06/Jul/10 Lead RP
with Trev Tatler
Marc Murphy ?/Jul/10 TR
leon 20/Jun/10 Lead

This route always beats me!!! I just cannot bring myself to have faith in those cams!!!! Retreated before the crux & then did it on top rope. Maybe next time?

with Chris Munton
Ky 17/Jun/10 Lead dnf
with Tim
Hidden 15/Jun/10 Lead dog
Hidden 15/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 11/Jun/10 Lead rpt
nadeem 02/Jun/10 Lead O/S
freddieneame10 ?/Jun/10 Lead dnf

Backed off - crap gear in the break that i didnt trust

Bern ?/May/10 2nd
with Peter Brown
Hidden 25/Apr/10 Solo O/S
DavidR 06/Apr/10 Lead dnf

Backed off! Gear wasn't good so wasn't happy. Only third lead (and first E1) of the season.

simonp ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Annelies Sarrazyn
Hidden ?/Apr/10 Lead RP
Hidden 23/Mar/10 Lead
bullwinkle 21/Mar/10 2nd rpt
with John
Matt Bennett 09/Mar/10 Solo O/S
with Sam Corbett
Brian Rodgers 15/Nov/09 Lead O/S

Did it with an injured knee which made them moves feel a bit akward. Gear wasn't great.

mark20 08/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Cam protecting crux looked a bit iffy but really nice balancy climbing

Hidden 04/Oct/09 Lead
crimpy ?/Oct/09 TR O/S
Hidden 13/Sep/09 2nd
sammo247 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S

First E1 onsight! Very bad cam placements in the break before the crux, pulled the cam out as i went past it, fortunately a number 2 offset peenut protects.

Hidden 25/Jul/09 Lead
raptorheli 15/Jul/09 Lead dnf

slipped off at half hight and landed next to the belayer(the gear was good and stayed in thank god)

Whealiebob 09/Jul/09 Lead dnf

Couldn't find a cam placement I was happy with

with Stee
Tim M ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Nick
Hidden 10/May/09 Lead O/S
Si dH 10/May/09 2nd O/S

Seemed quite tough for E1 - hard 5b and very small gear, good lead by Neil

with Neil Furniss
Pilch 02/Apr/09 Lead rpt

no problems this time, after farcical attempt last year,

with Graham
Alan James - UKC and UKH 15/Mar/09 TR

While the rope was there

Twisty 01/Mar/09 2nd O/S
with Byron Buck
Byronius Maximus 01/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Good tactics on this; climb up, place gear, climb down, climb up, place gear, climb down, repeat until I did it!

Tom Last 30/Dec/08 Lead

Glad to have got this after I bottled it once before. Rested for about a second on a very bad micro. I don't think that the cams are very good on this, wouldn't want to fall off.

with Denise
Martin Haworth 06/Dec/08 Lead O/S
with dave
dave_middleton 06/Dec/08 2nd O/S
with Marek & Martin
Graeme Hammond 28/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Barra
bridget143 10/Sep/08 2nd dog

One fall then sorted it out!

with Brown
Brown 08/Sep/08 Solo O/S
clive-greenwood 08/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Hard delicate section just above the gear, made a scary top end E1.

MikeLeeds 08/Sep/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/08 2nd O/S
givemetea 24/Jul/08 2nd O/S
with Craig Jenkins
adam carless 29/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Stood around for quite a while on the undercuts before finding the decent hold for the crux move. Nice route, wish it was longer.

Yanis Nayu 17/Jun/08 2nd dog

First outdoor fall. Got back on and finished.

with Matt
Hidden 17/Jun/08 Lead O/S
dan gibson 07/Jun/08 Solo O/S
PenJD 06/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Heather Swift
Jon_Warner 06/Jun/08 2nd β

Easier to second.

derico 04/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Sadact
Franco Cookson OLD 04/Jun/08 Solo O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/08 2nd
Cragrat Rich 02/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Reversed the start for a re-think. Became a pumpy little number mainly due to hangin around on undercuts to contemplate the crux, which was hard in the conditions. Felt more like 5c

Hidden 02/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Pilch 15/May/08 Lead dnf

Well, bit of a mess up here, faffed with gear before crux, did not find good hold in thin layaway, rested on gear, went for it , found hold but somehow managed to clip karabiner on cam placement through belay device on muy harness as i moved up, realised that i could not move up, fell on gear which ripped out and ended up dangling a few inches above the ground. Will come and do this again but need a smaller cam.

with Graham
Nicos 14/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with simon shaw
Hidden 10/Feb/08 2nd rpt
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/08 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
LankyPaddy 06/Oct/07 Lead O/S
SKippy5 06/Oct/07 2nd
Hidden 09/Sep/07 Lead RP
Stuart S 31/Aug/07 Lead dnf

Didn't trust my gear (the friend placements are not as good as the guide suggests), and backed off twice from the final rockover at the end of the crux sequence.

Hidden 18/Aug/07 -
bullwinkle 02/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Paul
Hidden 27/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/07 2nd
max_chan 04/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Lou
Hidden 11/Apr/07 Lead rpt
craig matheson ?/Apr/07 Solo
alaan 18/Feb/07 Lead O/S
with Dave
Hammy 18/Feb/07 2nd
Hidden ??/2007 -
loonyclimber 06/Aug/06 Lead O/S

A bit thin to say the least... i wish i was a little bit taller, i wish i was a baller, i wish i had a rabbit in a hat...

with Jen Green
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 24/Jun/06 Solo rpt
Stig 06/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Les
howlingbaboon ?/Jun/06 TR
with Rob
Rampikino 15/Apr/06 2nd
with Rob Wilson & Mark Hills
Oli 04/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Ian Killey
leon ?/Apr/06 Lead dog

wasted too long hanging around wishing the gear was better to get the onsight :(. At least I managed to get up the thing on the lead which is more than I was to manage in the years to come!!

Hidden ?/Apr/06 Lead
Boy ??/2006 -
Hidden 11/Dec/05 Lead O/S
ASchwirtz 25/Sep/05 2nd O/S
Pythonist ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Nov/04 Lead β
Adam Potter 08/Aug/04 2nd
Hidden 28/Jul/04 TR
darren1 04/Jun/04 -
Hidden 09/May/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/May/04 Lead
jonnyboy ??/2004 Lead O/S
Coel Hellier ??/2004 Lead
Hidden ?/Oct/03 2nd
Hidden ?/Aug/03 2nd
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 19/Jul/03 Solo O/S
cem 08/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/03 Lead
Mark A Humphries 30/May/03 Lead O/S
with dean howard
Daniel Armitage 23/Mar/03 Lead O/S
skygodley 16/Mar/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/02 TR
lithos 07/Jul/02 Lead O/S
with john byrne
A Crook 22/May/02 2nd
with Pat Boothman
chris warner 17/May/02 2nd
with ben edwards
chris sm 12/May/02 Lead O/S
jamiev ?/Apr/02 Solo O/S
Jon Greengrass ??/2002 Solo O/S
mel holmes ??/2002 2nd
Hidden 25/May/01 2nd
martroberts 07/May/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/00 Lead
Hidden 06/Jul/00 TR
Hidden ?/Jun/00 TR
Laramadness 01/May/00 Lead O/S
tlr ??/2000 Solo
Hidden ??/2000 -
Urgles ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/99 Lead
Hidden 09/Jul/99 Lead
Podling ?/Jun/99 Lead
Hidden 11/Jan/98 Lead O/S
Phill Mitch ??/1997 Lead O/S
with gaz
Bruce Kerr 11/Apr/96 Lead
with Robert Durran
nai ??/1995 Lead
D Tempest 31/Oct/93 Solo
with Rick
Chris the Tall ?/Jun/93 Lead dog
with Harry
Hidden 06/Jun/92 Lead O/S
Roget 25/Jun/91 Solo O/S
NickJH ?/Jun/90 Solo
Marti999 ??/1990 Lead
goi.ashmore 02/Oct/89 Lead O/S
with Andy Williamson
Andy Say 19/Nov/88 Solo
steve taylor ?/Jun/88 Solo
with stumpy
Hidden 23/May/87 Solo O/S
Rob Davies 25/Apr/87 2nd
Hidden ??/1987 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/86 Lead
Dave Musgrove 02/Apr/86 -
GordonHart ??/1986 Solo O/S
stp 16/Feb/85 Solo O/S
Hidden 20/May/84 Lead
KRB 24/Aug/81 Solo O/S
Mark Kemball 23/Sep/79 Solo
mike bridges 13/May/79 Lead O/S
Canyak ??/1973 -
Hidden 02/Oct/65 TR
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Geoff82, NickstaDB, Will Falder, Hidden, Justaname, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, valentinesbabe, Hidden, Hidden
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 82
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 80
Votes cast 74
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set