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Gullible's Travels* E1 5b

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[Edd cruises up a little gem!, 2 kb]10m. From the centre of the wall, trend right delicately with hard moves to reach a shallow crack and then easier ground. Pleasantly technical climbing protected by small Friends. © ROCKFAX
FA. Brian Pallet 1963

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, Stanage Routes Graded List.

Photo: Edd cruises up a little gem! © Neil Morbey
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 254 logbooks, and on 10 wishlists.

batterj2 - 2nd dog - 12/Apr/14 with Simon Kimber

Hidden - Lead β - 12/Apr/14

Chris M - AltLd - 09/Apr/14 with Mark H

stephenhartley - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/14 with Burns

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Mar/14

pie_eater_pete - Lead - 05/Mar/14 with bwestwood

fjg123 - Mar/14

Backed off the reachy moves.
Alex Thompson - Lead dnf - 02/Jan/14 with Ben Powrie

Hidden - 2014

Matthew Ferrier - Solo O/S - 17/Dec/13 with Ben, Nick

will_benfold - Lead dnf - 20/Oct/13 with Dan Wilcox

Hidden - TR - 17/Oct/13

dr_botnik - Lead dog - 08/Oct/13 with Andy, Phil Taylor

slack bastad
the power - Lead dnf - 08/Oct/13 with Andy, rob

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/13

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - 05/Oct/13

Well protected with zero cams. Delicate moves up the slab.
gavinpeach - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/13 with Dan

Cams in the break were good but rested on rope before doing crux
grakgrak - Lead - 14/Sep/13 with nicktong

davebrox - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/13 with Fiona

kyaizawa - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/13 with Tim Roe, Sophie Cheng

First done Feb.'97, the break has seen a lot of wear since then making it quite difficult to place small cams.
jshields - Lead - 19/Jun/13 with Paul Tretheway, Ed James

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/13 with Kirsty Kerr

Found most of the difficulty lay in the gear placement rather than the climbing. Worth fiddling in a good zero cam, but significantly more strenuous from one side than the other. Nice moves - providing you're not pumped!
Andy Clarke - Lead rpt - 09/Jun/13 with Alex

Hidden - Lead - 01/Jun/13

A lovely little climb. Done it several times before. Did as 11th and last route of a brilliant sunny Stanage day out.
climberchristy - Lead rpt - 31/May/13 with Ben Cole

colin milton - Lead dnf - 31/May/13 with colin D

Hidden - Lead dnf - 07/May/13

simon1965 - 2nd - 01/May/13 with dom

domskezz - Lead O/S - 01/May/13 with Si

solo above pads, landing much flatter than normal due to snow and Marks efforts at platforming :)
Graeme Hammond - Solo rpt - 06/Apr/13

Snowy landing.
LakesWinter - Solo - 04/Apr/13 with Mark R

mikealexpayne - 2nd - 2013

AlanPedrick - 2013

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Nov/12

Andrew Sloan - 2nd dog - 06/Oct/12 with Martin Haworth

Small cam placements are not great, try a No1 rock light
Martin Haworth - Lead β - 06/Oct/12 with Andy

Mowglee - 2nd O/S - 29/Sep/12 with Sasha, Tom Nichols

Good lead by Steve in the cold. Small cams are a bit crap, Rock 1 or 2 might be better.
Chris Craggs - 2nd - 23/Sep/12 with Steve Cunnington

Gudge - Lead O/S - Aug/12 with Woodsy

mjeffery - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/12

deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/12

Haydn Jones - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/12 with deacon, duncan

Hidden - 2nd dog - 15/Apr/12

Hidden - Lead dnf - 30/Mar/12

friend placements crumbled where they matter. better to press on before you pump out.
rurp - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/12

Higher break now badly scarred - handholds full of grit/sand when I reached where Edd is in Neil Morbey's photo. I used a Friend 2.5 and a small wire to protect the subsequent move up + R. Last route of a '10-star' day, mostly @ 5b - and definitely the hardest.
Falko - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/12 with Al W.

Clay C - 2nd O/S - 10/Mar/12 with Jay

Jay C - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/12 with Clay C

Bruce Houston - Lead rpt - Mar/12

Tony Kartawick - 2012

john lynch - 2nd O/S - 21/Nov/11 with Lewis Andrew

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/11

Hidden - TR - 06/Nov/11

Def harder than it looks.
RiverRoam - 2nd β - 06/Nov/11 with Martin Wing

Ben1983 - Lead O/S - 30/Oct/11

rob wmc - TR O/S - 30/Oct/11 with Alan, Dave

Hidden - 2nd dog - 22/Oct/11

Kyle Rance - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/11 with Scott Purdy

first lead fall a year or so ago, took one fall at crux, got pumped and peeled off. very nice route!1
Tom Redmond - Lead RP - 28/Sep/11 with craig morrison

Aided the crux, seemed incredibly hard, has it lost a hold or something?!?!
Jack Whiteley - 2nd dog - 09/Sep/11 with Scott and Paul

Tamati - 2nd - 09/Sep/11

Shit gear with nasty reachy balancy climbing, tough until a good hold is gained, i wont say where.
Jonathan Hall - Lead - 09/Sep/11 with Will Ward

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/11

tradguy - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/11 with Ed Lamb

ed_1973 - 2nd - 27/Aug/11 with paul highams

al123 - Solo - 24/Aug/11

mic_b - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/11 with Ady

finally did the lead in one push.
leon - Lead rpt - 13/Aug/11 with Andy Bell

Pike - TR dnf - 31/Jul/11

benkelsey - Solo O/S - 22/Jul/11

Sam Cooke - 2nd - 30/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/11

Si Croft - 2nd - 30/Jun/11 with Bernie

Hidden - Lead dnf - 18/Jun/11

adamjeffs - Lead dnf - 16/Jun/11

Rested after placing small cam in the top break, lowered off and tried again, fell on crux above.
Neil Pacey - Lead dnf - 21/May/11 with Tanya Savage

JYates - Lead dog - 19/May/11 with Alan Caley

Bigish fall twice on a 0,2 cam, bomber placement and still really enjoyed!
cheeky - Lead dnf - 07/May/11 with Mark Philipson

psychicbread - 2nd O/S - 29/Apr/11 with Max

mattparratt - 2nd - 28/Apr/11

Took over the lead from Mark who already had placed gear to and for the crux! Still to pumped and needed a rest to make the move! First Atempt at an E1 and I will get this next trip in May
cheeky - Lead dog - 14/Apr/11 with Mark Philipson, Michel

Hidden - 2nd β - 14/Apr/11

Attempted for my first E1 lead. protected with small cams, but forearms screaming before final hard move. matt finished for me. Next time!
mark4344 - Lead dnf - 14/Apr/11 with Michel, Matt Payne

Goose4 - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/11 with Tom Adams

hard apparantly
going going gone - Lead β - 01/Apr/11

rikbattye - Solo O/S - 29/Mar/11

Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/11 with Preston Matt

tomthecoolperson - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/11 with Andrew

Clean
galpinos - 2nd - 06/Mar/11 with Ben T

Fell off at the upper crux first go, then on the initial slab the second go. Getting dark, so another attempt not possible. Hard for 5b I reckon.
Submit to Gravity - TR dog - 03/Mar/11 with Phil Lucas

Hard move up on small slopers.
gazfellows - Lead O/S - 12/Feb/11 with shaun d

thekendo - 2nd rpt - 23/Jan/11 with attila forbaur

Andy Peak 1 - 2nd - 23/Jan/11 with Atila

David Smith - 2011

PAJames - 2011

Hidden - Dec/10

Got footwork a bit wrong...
BeccaSnowden - 2nd dog - 20/Oct/10 with Alan Saul

fatbuoybazza - Lead dnf - 11/Oct/10 with Mikael

Maybe a bit of an ask being my second grit route and in mederterainean heat. Rested once.
geoff.comley - Lead dog - 11/Oct/10 with Antony Mckenzie

damp smears :(
JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Nick

Nick1812P - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Jamie

akhughes - Solo O/S - 27/Aug/10

drcorbasisgod - 2nd O/S - 07/Aug/10 with Mark O'Neill

Dogmusher - Lead - 07/Aug/10 with chris parson

Reachy moves from good handholds and smears.
Andrew Barker - Solo O/S - 31/Jul/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/Jul/10

did realy follow the line came in from the E3 on the left by a funky travese along break.
Marti999 - Lead rpt - 17/Jul/10 with Gary Jackson

cobweb - Lead rpt - 10/Jul/10 with Roger Waterworth

Dave Mason - Lead RP - 06/Jul/10 with Trev Tatler

Dave Mason - Lead RP - 06/Jul/10 with Trev Tatler

Marc Murphy - TR - Jul/10

This route always beats me!!! I just cannot bring myself to have faith in those cams!!!! Retreated before the crux & then did it on top rope. Maybe next time?
leon - Lead - 20/Jun/10 with Chris Munton

Ky - Lead dnf - 17/Jun/10 with Tim

Glad the BD 000 held!
slacky - Lead dog - 15/Jun/10 with Nick Taylor

slacky - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/10 with Nick Taylor

Graeme Hammond - Lead rpt - 11/Jun/10 with Richard

nadeem - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/10 with James Morrison

Backed off - crap gear in the break that i didnt trust
freddieneame10 - Lead dnf - Jun/10

Bern - 2nd - May/10 with Peter Brown

Hidden - Solo O/S - 25/Apr/10

Backed off! Gear wasn't good so wasn't happy. Only third lead (and first E1) of the season.
DavidR - Lead dnf - 06/Apr/10 with Holly Adamthwaite

simonp - Lead O/S - Apr/10 with Annelies Sarrazyn

Hidden - Lead RP - Apr/10

Hidden - Lead - 23/Mar/10

bullwinkle - 2nd rpt - 21/Mar/10 with John

Matt Bennett - Solo O/S - 09/Mar/10 with Sam Corbett

Did it with an injured knee which made them moves feel a bit akward. Gear wasn't great.
Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - 15/Nov/09 with Mike Todd

Cam protecting crux looked a bit iffy but really nice balancy climbing
mark20 - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/09

Hidden - Lead - 04/Oct/09

crimpy - TR O/S - Oct/09

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Sep/09

First E1 onsight! Very bad cam placements in the break before the crux, pulled the cam out as i went past it, fortunately a number 2 offset peenut protects.
sammo247 - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead - 25/Jul/09

slipped off at half hight and landed next to the belayer(the gear was good and stayed in thank god)
raptorheli - Lead dnf - 15/Jul/09

Couldn't find a cam placement I was happy with
Whealiebob - Lead dnf - 09/Jul/09 with Stee

Tim M - Lead O/S - Jul/09 with Nick

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/May/09

Seemed quite tough for E1 - hard 5b and very small gear, good lead by Neil
Si dH - 2nd O/S - 10/May/09 with Neil Furniss

no problems this time, after farcical attempt last year,
Pilch - Lead rpt - 02/Apr/09 with Graham

While the rope was there
Alan James - UKC and UKH - TR - 15/Mar/09

Twisty - 2nd O/S - 01/Mar/09 with Byron Buck

Good tactics on this; climb up, place gear, climb down, climb up, place gear, climb down, repeat until I did it!
Byronius Maximus - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/09 with Alex Twist

Glad to have got this after I bottled it once before. Rested for about a second on a very bad micro. I don't think that the cams are very good on this, wouldn't want to fall off.
Tom Last - Lead - 30/Dec/08 with Denise

Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - 06/Dec/08 with dave

dave_middleton - 2nd O/S - 06/Dec/08 with Marek & Martin

Graeme Hammond - 2nd O/S - 28/Sep/08 with Barra

One fall then sorted it out!
bridget143 - 2nd dog - 10/Sep/08 with Brown

Brown - Solo O/S - 08/Sep/08

Hard delicate section just above the gear, made a scary top end E1.
clive-greenwood - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/08 with Mike Nuttall

MikeLeeds - 2nd O/S - 08/Sep/08 with Clive Greenwood

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/Aug/08

givemetea - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/08 with Craig Jenkins

Stood around for quite a while on the undercuts before finding the decent hold for the crux move. Nice route, wish it was longer.
adam carless - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/08 with James Rowe

First outdoor fall. Got back on and finished.
Submit to Gravity - 2nd dog - 17/Jun/08 with Matt

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/08

dan gibson - Solo O/S - 07/Jun/08

PenJD - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/08 with Heather Swift

Easier to second.
Jon_Warner - 2nd β - 06/Jun/08 with Dave Pattinson

derico - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/08 with Sadact

Franco Cookson OLD - Solo O/S - 04/Jun/08

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Jun/08

Reversed the start for a re-think. Became a pumpy little number mainly due to hangin around on undercuts to contemplate the crux, which was hard in the conditions. Felt more like 5c
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/08

Well, bit of a mess up here, faffed with gear before crux, did not find good hold in thin layaway, rested on gear, went for it , found hold but somehow managed to clip karabiner on cam placement through belay device on muy harness as i moved up, realised that i could not move up, fell on gear which ripped out and ended up dangling a few inches above the ground. Will come and do this again but need a smaller cam.
Pilch - Lead dnf - 15/May/08 with Graham

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Apr/08

Nicos - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/08 with simon shaw

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 10/Feb/08

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/08

Jim Walton - 2008

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Hidden - 2008

LankyPaddy - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/07 with Sophie Price

SKippy5 - 2nd - 06/Oct/07 with Ed Northridge

Hidden - Lead RP - 09/Sep/07

Didn't trust my gear (the friend placements are not as good as the guide suggests), and backed off twice from the final rockover at the end of the crux sequence.
Stuart S - Lead dnf - 31/Aug/07 with Amanda Lyons

Hidden - 18/Aug/07

bullwinkle - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/07 with Paul

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/07

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Jun/07

max_chan - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/07 with Lou

Really pleased with the lead. Got VERY pumped fiddling in gear, and could barely hold on by the time I topped out.
Nick Smith - UKC - Lead rpt - 11/Apr/07 with Amanda Newham

craig matheson - Solo - Apr/07

alaan - Lead O/S - 18/Feb/07 with Dave

Hammy - 2nd - 18/Feb/07

Hidden - 2007

A bit thin to say the least... i wish i was a little bit taller, i wish i was a baller, i wish i had a rabbit in a hat...
loonyclimber - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/06 with Jen Green

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo rpt - 24/Jun/06

Stig - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/06 with Les

howlingbaboon - TR - Jun/06 with Rob

Rampikino - 2nd - 15/Apr/06 with Rob Wilson & Mark Hills

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/06

wasted too long hanging around wishing the gear was better to get the onsight :(. At least I managed to get up the thing on the lead which is more than I was to manage in the years to come!!
leon - Lead dog - Apr/06 with Andy Bell

Hidden - Lead - Apr/06

Boy - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Dec/05

ASchwirtz - 2nd O/S - 25/Sep/05

Pythonist - Lead O/S - Aug/05

Hidden - Lead β - 28/Nov/04

Adam Potter - 2nd - 08/Aug/04

Hidden - TR - 28/Jul/04

darren1 - 04/Jun/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/May/04

Hidden - Lead - 01/May/04

jonnyboy - Lead O/S - 2004 with Daniel Armitage

Coel Hellier - Lead - 2004

Hidden - 2nd - Oct/03

Nick Smith - UKC - 2nd - Aug/03

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo O/S - 19/Jul/03

cem - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/03 with Graham Dolman

Hidden - Lead - 05/Jun/03

Mark A Humphries - Lead O/S - 30/May/03 with dean howard

Daniel Armitage - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/03

Hidden - TR - 08/Aug/02

lithos - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/02 with john byrne

A Crook - 2nd - 22/May/02 with Pat Boothman

chris warner - 2nd - 17/May/02 with ben edwards

chris sm - Lead O/S - 12/May/02

jamiev - Solo O/S - Apr/02

Jon Greengrass - Solo O/S - 2002

mel holmes - 2nd - 2002

Hidden - 2nd - 25/May/01

martroberts - Lead O/S - 07/May/01

Great little climb. Aliens help protect the crux.
Nick Smith - UKC - Lead - Aug/00

Hidden - TR - 06/Jul/00

Nick Smith - UKC - TR - Jun/00

Laramadness - Lead O/S - 01/May/00

tlr - Solo - 2000

Hidden - 2000

The Pylon King - Lead O/S - 2000

Hidden - Lead - 08/Aug/99

Podling - Lead - Jun/99

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jan/98

Phill Mitch - Lead O/S - 1997 with gaz

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 11/Apr/96 with Robert Durran

nai - Lead - 1995

Chris the Tall - Lead dog - Jun/93 with Harry

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/92

Roget - Solo O/S - 25/Jun/91

NickJH - Solo - Jun/90

Marti999 - Lead - 1990

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/89 with Andy Williamson

Andy Say - Solo - 19/Nov/88

steve taylor - Solo - Jun/88 with stumpy

Hidden - Solo O/S - 23/May/87

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 1987

Hidden - Lead - 12/Jun/86

Dave Musgrove - 02/Apr/86

GordonHart - Solo O/S - 1986

stp - Solo O/S - 16/Feb/85

Hidden - Lead - 20/May/84

KRB - Solo O/S - 24/Aug/81

Mark Kemball - Solo - 23/Sep/79

mike bridges - Lead O/S - 13/May/79 with Kevin Bridges

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Will Falder, Keith Swainson, Hidden, Justaname, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, valentinesbabe, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 181
hard E20 of 62
E20 of 62
easy E24 of 62
hard E111 of 62
E139 of 62
easy E18 of 62
hard HVS0 of 62
HVS0 of 62
easy HVS0 of 62
hard 5c0 of 61
5c0 of 61
easy 5c6 of 61
hard 5b9 of 61
5b42 of 61
easy 5b4 of 61
hard 5a0 of 61
5a0 of 61
easy 5a0 of 61
3 Stars0 of 58
2 Stars12 of 58
1 Star43 of 58
0 Stars3 of 58
Bag of .....0 of 58
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Style of ascent

Soloed29 of 254 (11.4%)
Lead140 of 254 (55.1%)
Followed55 of 254 (21.7%)
Toproped13 of 254 (5.1%)
Alt Leads2 of 254 (0.8%)
Unknown15 of 254 (5.9%)

'Climbed'83 of 254 (32.7%)
clean O/S109 of 254 (42.9%)
clean β7 of 254 (2.8%)
clean rpt14 of 254 (5.5%)
clean RP5 of 254 (2.0%)
dogged16 of 254 (6.3%)
dnf20 of 254 (7.9%)