UKC

10m.

Rockfax Description
The thin seam splitting the tower is great. Climb to a ledge then finger-jam the central section to a steep finish on flat holds. © Rockfax

FA. Pat Fearnehough early 1960s.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Eastern Grit Jamming , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Popular , Severe Stanage , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

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User Date Notes
Simas87 25 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The obvious jug block is now loose and could come put.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The obvious jug block is now loose and could come put.
MNA123 25 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Found quite easy for the grade, good gear and a bomber nut in the second crack once placed just go for the top!
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βeta: Found quite easy for the grade, good gear and a bomber nut in the second crack once placed just go for the top!
sheffieldchris 30 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: found the crux very hard on my fingers, holding on to figure out the next move should have dropped back to the ledge and rested but went for it on tired arms and fell onto gear
βeta?
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βeta: found the crux very hard on my fingers, holding on to figure out the next move should have dropped back to the ledge and rested but went for it on tired arms and fell onto gear
Richard Hession 31 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Comfortable HVS compared to some others I have done and the hard moves can be protected ok from below to be able to pull through the crux and finish easily
βeta?
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βeta: Comfortable HVS compared to some others I have done and the hard moves can be protected ok from below to be able to pull through the crux and finish easily
leon 16 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: i'd agree that after the initial cracks things ease that you don't really need gear. quality route that seems to end a bit early. it's a bit strenuous around the crux for placing gear so i found myself retreating to the ledge for a quick rest!!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: i'd agree that after the initial cracks things ease that you don't really need gear. quality route that seems to end a bit early. it's a bit strenuous around the crux for placing gear so i found myself retreating to the ledge for a quick rest!!!

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 176
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 174
Votes cast 155
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Cataclysm

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Wildcat)

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