Mantelpiece Buttress Direct* HVS 5b
[Mantelpiece Buttress Direct, 2 kb]8m. Haul ass' through the crack in the overhang. A great V0+. © ROCKFAX
FA. Howie Darwin 1989

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, Stanage for Crack Apprentices, 'Soft' Peak HVSs..

Photo: Mantelpiece Buttress Direct © hun
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 252 logbooks, and on 11 wishlists.

Angus Taylor - 2nd RP - 18/Oct/14

First trad lead! Using gear placed by Dave before hand. Puntered off after doing the hard bit on the first go, got it the second.
TedT - Lead RP - 11/Oct/14 with Davefro, francesfromedinburgh, Uni

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/14

Top rope solo.
robblowen - TR O/S - 24/Sep/14

Olli-C - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/14 with Chris Waddle

JFORDE - Solo rpt - 17/Sep/14

Hidden - Solo - 27/Aug/14

Hidden - Lead - 26/Aug/14

rpinto - TR O/S - 18/Aug/14

A wet and windy day!
benthomas.online - TR O/S - 17/Aug/14 with Robin Edwards

looks more intimidating that it actually is, confident opening moves to good holds
scarmichael - Lead O/S - Aug/14

alooker - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/14

There should be a did not start option. After watching robs valiant efforts come to nothing I thought better of trying this route and w moved onto Plate Glass.
Puma - 2nd dnf - 23/Jul/14 with Rob Stone

took for ever to work out gear (or rather get it in) then messed about and got too wasted :-(
lithos - Lead dnf - 22/Jul/14

jamesnorton - TR O/S - 20/Jun/14 with Barry

Matthew Ferrier - Solo O/S - 13/Jun/14 with Alex McCann

gavinpeach - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/14 with Hellen

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Jun/14

Bit of a heave over the lip but the holds are all there.
ralphio - 2nd - 14/May/14

jwpil - Lead O/S - 14/May/14 with Deacon

Lawrence Beesley-Peck - Solo - 14/May/14

Lawrence Beesley-Peck - Solo - 14/May/14

Hidden - Solo - 09/May/14

marcduhig - Solo O/S - 03/May/14

Derek Furze - 2nd - 23/Apr/14 with Paul Mitchell

simontyrrell - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/14

Ablewings - TR rpt - 16/Apr/14

Hidden - TR O/S - 16/Apr/14

Hidden - TR - 14/Apr/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/14

Dan Arkle - 2014

toasted - Lead - 22/Sep/13 with Conrad

grakgrak - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/13 with nicktong

harder than I remembered.
JamieSparkes - Solo rpt - 19/Aug/13 with Nick

Nick1812P - Sent β - 19/Aug/13 with Jamie

Fell of this a few years ago on second:-)
Andy Peak 1 - Solo - 19/Aug/13

Hidden - TR - 16/Aug/13

looked fine and was keen to go for it but could not get the gear in.
BJP001 - Lead dnf - 04/Aug/13 with Simon Woodcock

neontiger - Lead dog - Aug/13 with Jed

James Oakes - Sent - 30/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/13

rich_hw - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/13 with gavin_pcc

hamishjoe - Lead - 18/Jun/13

counting this as onsight because I had no memory of having done it before (seems I led it 5 years ago and found it a git then too).
adam carless - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13 with SecretSquirrel

JFORDE - Solo O/S - 06/Apr/13

deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 12/Dec/12

riven - Lead O/S - 11/Nov/12 with James

riddle - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/12 with Tara

Birdo - Lead - 08/Sep/12 with Robb the Sweet Prince

barni - Solo rpt - 28/Aug/12 with Ami

Tom Campbell - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/12

Keith Swainson - Solo - 22/Aug/12

Hidden - TR dnf - 08/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead β - 26/Jul/12

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 26/Jul/12

HVS Challenge
migs493 - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/12 with LO

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - 14/Jul/12

Hannes B - Solo O/S - 12/Jul/12

tomthecoolperson - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/12 with Andrew

mwatson - Solo O/S - 12/Jun/12

Hidden - Solo - 21/May/12

Ewan Russell - Sent x - 22/Apr/12 with Huw

Macleod - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/12 with Mehmet

will909 - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/12

Tom Seccombe - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/12 with tim exley

Thanks to Chris for the a-cheval advice (left knee around the prow).
Falko - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/12 with Les Deakin, Chris Plant, Steve M

Les Deakin - 2nd - 06/Mar/12 with Falko Rech

Sean Kelly - 2012

admackie - 2012

Maybe shouldn't of left it to the end of the day as it required more strength then I thought. Ran out of umph on the first try and had to drop down onto the gear (luckily the nut which didn't look too great, turned out to be bomber). Managed to get it second go by ignoring the flat hold on the left and using the jamming crack instead (although I laybacked it).
charley - Lead RP - 06/Nov/11 with Ange, Kev

Hidden - Lead - 06/Nov/11

Tithe Technique - TR O/S - 06/Nov/11 with Angela Paul, Charley Fell

Charley's lead.Bit of a struggle for me and my pathetically weak upper body especially having wasted all my energies on Gashed Crack before this but got there on second go.
valentinesbabe - 2nd dog - 06/Nov/11 with Charley Fell, Kevin Tithe

Hidden - Sent O/S - 30/Oct/11

Hidden - Solo rpt - 16/Oct/11

Benn A - Lead - Oct/11

andybirtwistle - 2nd - 29/Sep/11 with Ian Birtwistle

tommo1664 - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/11

Took a few falls. Was about to give up, so traversed in above the crux and put in some high gear, then did it with ease. How frustrating I didn't just pull the same move out when I was on lead.
treg - Lead dog - 23/Sep/11 with Sarah Yoga

al123 - Solo - 24/Aug/11

Hidden - Solo O/S - 22/Jul/11

jw231 - Solo O/S - 04/Jun/11 with Alex Skew

wolverine - Solo O/S - 02/Jun/11

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo rpt - 02/Jun/11

john lynch - Solo O/S - 17/May/11 with kela

gingerwolf - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/11

Hidden - Solo - 18/Apr/11

trevor macalonan - Lead RP - 02/Apr/11 with Richy

Hidden - 2nd dog - 02/Apr/11

got it wrong first time and wasted energy trying to remove the wire steve had hung on. Got it second time with style and panache
r_o_b_h2 - 2nd dog - 28/Mar/11 with steve tree

Jonathan Hall - Solo - 22/Mar/11

disturbed_one51 - Solo - 22/Mar/11

ChrisBrooke - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/11 with Duncan Bell

lozowen - Solo - 08/Feb/11

Andy Peak 1 - 2nd - 23/Jan/11 with kenney

thekendo - Lead β - 23/Jan/11 with andy peak 1

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2011

David Smith - 2011

Hidden - Lead - 2011

mwatson - 2011

Dan Mckinlay - 2011

Hidden - Dec/10

tim exley - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/10 with alice

madasten - Solo O/S - 06/Oct/10 with Ethan

jade - 2nd - Oct/10 with andy

ciaran1999 - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/10 with tom, shafman

a stiff little route, gets you very bunched on the jugs.
JamieSparkes - Lead RP - 30/Aug/10

inuklm - 2nd - 29/Aug/10 with Jonny Bull

maybe_si - Solo O/S - 19/Aug/10

Hidden - Sent rpt - Aug/10

Reachy and awkward first move.
Andrew Barker - Solo O/S - 31/Jul/10

wolverine - Lead - 27/Jul/10

geddicakes - Solo O/S - 27/Jul/10 with Mike Hayes

I have once tried this on 03/Sep/2005, but failed. This time I managed cleanly, however I had to use toe-hook at head-height together with small finger edge to get over the crux -- solid 6a move, perhaps because of my very short reach. Involving a 6a crux, this is one of the hardest HVSs I have ever climbed. Still a ground-up ascent!
masa-alpin - Lead rpt - 13/Jun/10 with Andy Rail

drcorbasisgod - Solo O/S - 13/Jun/10

Hidden - Solo rpt - 11/Jun/10

James_D - Lead O/S - 09/May/10 with Rach

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/10

Matt Bennett - Solo O/S - 07/Mar/10 with Sam Corbett, Lewis Grey

sam corbett - Solo - Mar/10

Seymore Butt - 2010

Ram MkiV - Solo O/S - 08/Sep/09

Tried and fell in april 2007 so I came back with Mark to get it clean
Laurence Everitt - Lead RP - 05/Sep/09 with Mark D, Rosie Henstock

Mark D - 2nd O/S - 05/Sep/09 with Laurence Everitt

climbing_rocks1983 - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/09 with Petey

Kyle Rance - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/09 with Chris Cracknell

Hidden - Solo - Aug/09

Mr Wild - Solo - 27/Jul/09

Benn A - TR - Jul/09

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead rpt - 20/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead dog - 06/Apr/09

Alan James - UKC and UKH - Solo - 15/Mar/09

BRUCESTRAC - 2009

Lex Wilkinson - Solo - 29/Dec/08

tallsop - Lead - Dec/08 with Sam T

Graeme Hammond - Lead rpt - 28/Sep/08 with Barra

Brown - Solo O/S - 08/Sep/08

craig d - Solo - 30/Aug/08

Matt Fry - Solo O/S - 26/Aug/08 with Sam Dixon

Oceanic - 17/Aug/08

Jon Dittman - Lead - 17/Aug/08

markbenton - 2nd - 02/Aug/08

Shad - Lead - Aug/08

sketchy!!! involving the odd heelhook.
Franco Cookson OLD - Solo O/S - 16/Jul/08

good honest struggle
adam carless - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/08 with some lass called Louisa

johniebriggs - TR - Jul/08

Tommy G - Solo O/S - 28/Jun/08 with Mark Riley

Mark Riley - Solo - 28/Jun/08 with Tom Greenall

mikeryder - TR - 11/Jun/08 with ben quarmby

Took my first lead fall on this, did it clean on the repeat attempt.
Creep_pea - Lead RP - 18/May/08 with Walsh

jasoncanjuggle - TR O/S - 07/May/08

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Apr/08

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/08

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

TrollJester - AltLd O/S - 2008 with VARIOUS Throughout 80's+90's

Hidden - 2008

LoopyLou - 2nd - 2008

LankyPaddy - Solo O/S - 06/Oct/07

gareth scott borthwick - Lead dog - 06/Sep/07

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo rpt - 04/Aug/07

Hidden - Solo O/S - 12/Jul/07

Somerset swede basher - Solo O/S - 28/Jun/07

Jim Vach - Solo O/S - 11/May/07

Rosie Henstock - 2nd - 10/Apr/07 with Laurence

Merlin - TR O/S - 06/Feb/07

Hidden - 2007

drysori - 2007

Hidden - TR - Sep/06

howlingbaboon - TR O/S - Jun/06 with Rob

baldcoder - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/06 with Little Old Lady

Hidden - Lead dnf - 22/Apr/06

Hidden - Lead dnf - 04/Apr/06

mikecopp - Solo - 04/Apr/06

jamiev - Solo O/S - 29/Jan/06

dan gibson - 2006

Tobias at Home - 2006

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Oct/05

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/05

Pythonist - Solo rpt - 30/Aug/05 with Chris Jennions

reg_measures - Lead O/S - 12/May/05 with Ralph

loonyclimber - Lead O/S - May/05

Alan James - UKC and UKH - Solo - 10/Apr/05

Hidden - Lead - 29/Mar/05

motored up this felt good about ti quite a taxing few moves
Alex Mason - Lead - Jan/05 with jools holland

jonnyboy - Solo O/S - 2005 with Sharon R

Ollie B - Lead O/S - 2005 with A. Grindulis

Chris M - 2005

cem - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/04 with Graham Dolman

Hidden - TR - 12/Apr/04

dan gibson - Solo rpt - 16/Sep/03

dan gibson - Solo rpt - 15/Sep/03

Hidden - Solo O/S - 29/Jun/03

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo rpt - 05/May/03

rapidrich - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/03 with Coni

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - 2nd O/S - 26/Mar/03 with Jon Box

Hidden - TR - 19/Mar/03

Monk - 2003

Hidden - Solo O/S - 06/Nov/02

dan gibson - Solo rpt - 11/Sep/02

DerwentDiluted - Lead - 29/Aug/02 with Tim Stain

Hidden - Solo O/S - 27/May/02

Carl Smethurst - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/02 with Ian Pickles

Hidden - Lead RP - 2002

slacky - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/01 with Gary Shephard

CrashMat Rob - Solo - 26/May/01 with Nicky

Different Steve - Lead O/S - May/01 with Rupert Holbrook

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/00

Hidden - Solo O/S - Sep/00

Hidden - Lead - 2000

tlr - Solo - 2000

Hidden - 2000

Phill Mitch - Lead O/S - 2000 with gaz

lee..ish
rocktigger - Lead O/S - 2000 with chopper

The Pylon King - Lead O/S - 2000

Hidden - Solo O/S - 2000

akhughes - 2000

Hidden - Lead - 08/Aug/99

martroberts - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/99

Hidden - TR - May/99

Simon Pearce - 1999

Strangers were climbing, I went up second to retrieve gear.
CrashMat Rob - 2nd O/S - 19/Sep/98 with Dave, Nev, rob?, Nicky

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Jul/97

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Jan/97

John Southworth - Solo O/S - 16/Jul/95

Hidden - Solo - 1995

CrashMat Rob - Lead O/S - 1995

daprince - 1994

IanD353 - Lead O/S - 1993

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Oct/91

Roget - Solo O/S - 25/Jun/91

steve prior - Lead - Mar/90 with Paul B

Andy Say - Solo - 19/Nov/88

steve taylor - Solo - Jun/88

Hidden - Solo - 02/Apr/88

Hidden - Lead - 21/Feb/88

goi.ashmore - Solo O/S - 01/Jun/86

Dave Musgrove - 02/Apr/86

GordonHart - Solo O/S - 1986

Tom V - 1986

stp - Solo O/S - 16/Feb/85

John Marsland - Solo - 16/Aug/84

Hidden - Solo - 04/Jun/83

johnny20whales - Lead - 18/Apr/81

Mark Kemball - Solo - 22/Aug/79

mikej - TR dnf - 24/Sep/67 with Keith Mcdowel, John Lee

Hidden - Solo - 03/Oct/65

Hidden - Solo - 02/Oct/65

Hidden - Solo - 19/Sep/65

Hidden - Solo - 29/May/65

Hidden - Solo - 04/Apr/65

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Feb/65

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Matt88, richardw87, Steve Waters, Mynydd, JanBella, Matthew Edwards, mikeryder, Protheroe

Voting
Total votes cast 139
hard E10 of 48
E10 of 48
easy E11 of 48
hard HVS5 of 48
HVS28 of 48
easy HVS6 of 48
hard VS8 of 48
VS0 of 48
easy VS0 of 48
hard 5c0 of 48
5c0 of 48
easy 5c1 of 48
hard 5b5 of 48
5b29 of 48
easy 5b7 of 48
hard 5a6 of 48
5a0 of 48
easy 5a0 of 48
3 Stars1 of 43
2 Stars9 of 43
1 Star31 of 43
0 Stars2 of 43
Bag of .....0 of 43
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Style of ascent

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Lead
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Bouldered
Alt Leads
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Clean O/S
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Clean rpt
Clean RP
dogged
dnf