Restricted Access
Easy access but tidal. Lots of conservation interest including nesting birds and a very rare flower - the South Stack Spathulate Fleawort - a nationally rare endemic species that grows along the cliff edges. No gardening or placing of any additional belay stakes allowed anywhere on this coastline.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 February to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Refer to current guide book (Gogarth South by Ground Up) for individual seasonal route access info - however these have been slightly amended since 2018. The dates for each section are different due to the different bird species present :-
Seasonal restrictions apply to the following cliffs and routes :
Botox Zawn - restriction for "Salute of the Tengu" to "RAF Brown Slab" Feb 1st to June 30th.
One Stack Zawn - Restriction amended and reduced to include "Angel of the West" only (nest is in the cave to the right. Feb 1st to June 30th.
Anvil Porus Area - as in guidebook, All routes restricted, Feb 1st to July 31st (Razorbill Colony)
Ementhal Zawn - as in guidebook, all routes restricted, Feb 1st to July 31st
Housetrap Zawn - as in guidebook, the whole zawn is restricted due to nesting Choughs Feb 1st to June 30th.
Pooh Bay - as in guidebook - Nesting Choughs, Feb 1st to June 30th.
Dichotomous Wall- as in guidebook, nesting Choughs Feb 1st to June 30th.
The Fortress (Dinas) - as in guidebook 2 pairs of Choughs nesting here Feb 1st to June 30th.
Rockfax Description
A Dream of White Horses for The Range. A stunning outing with space-walking moves across the lip of a roof. Best done at high tide. Start at a ledge that overlooks the ramp.
1) 4c, 20m. Traverse out across the abyss to a groove. Go around the rib to gain a slab leading down to a large corner - possible belay. Move around a prominent spike and down to a corner and traverse out to a good belay below a roof.
1a) Low Tide Start, VS 4c, 20m. It is possible to bypass the tricky traverse on P1 at low tide.
2) 4b, 20m. Move up to the roof and traverse left to where a wild step up gains a slab. Continue onwards until another big step can be made onto a pink-coloured ramp. Follow the ramp up and left to a belay on a rib just below the top. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Rab 'Pocket a Prize' Competition: Libby's Lines, Lesser-Known North Wales Classics , The Range - Recommended By Climber Magazine , 3 Star - North Wales HS - HVS
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| paulinepavlova | 9 Aug, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: I believe the Ground Up Gogarth South guidebook topo misses out the first pitch? I was confused as it shows route immediately going up and then descending yet the description says to traverse across sea-level. Think just follow the description, and go pretty much horizontal for first pitch. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: I believe the Ground Up Gogarth South guidebook topo misses out the first pitch? I was confused as it shows route immediately going up and then descending yet the description says to traverse across sea-level. Think just follow the description, and go pretty much horizontal for first pitch. |
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| Butty | 3 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Superb route.... First pitch is the crux, I'd probably solo it again as gear wont stop you going in the drink. Be careful topping out as the rock is loose, placed 6 pieces of gear for anchor as dubious rock. Overall fantastic day and would repeat in a heartbeat | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Superb route.... First pitch is the crux, I'd probably solo it again as gear wont stop you going in the drink. Be careful topping out as the rock is loose, placed 6 pieces of gear for anchor as dubious rock. Overall fantastic day and would repeat in a heartbeat |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for The Range
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Britomartis
Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)