UKC

48m, 3 pitches. an entertaining trio of pitches. Start at the foot of the slanting gully, at a small perched pillar leading up to the left end of the ledge system of The Band of Hope.
1. 18m 4b Gain the end of the ledge, and step back left past a block to gain a steep juggy wall. This leads to slabs right of a holly-choked groove and a grassy belay stance left of a sharp arete at the left end of a rectangular wall.
2. 12m 4c Climb the flaky rib behind the stance to a small square roof, just right of a prominent crack. Layback the crack and step left to gain the broad terrace. Belay below the wide right-hand chimney of Inoculation Wall.
3. 18m 4c From just below the chimney, step up and right onto a wide ramp running up rightwards to the foot of a corner. Take the corner past a hollow sounding flake, and layback up to slabs. Belay well back.

I A Jones, D Ferguson Jun/1992.

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Guidebooks for Clogwyn Llo (aka Cwm Glas Facet)

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Route of Interest
Creagh Dhu Wall Direct

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Craig y Castell (Tremadog))

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