Rockfax Description
Layback the curving black flake and swing around the corner to a ledge. The delicate upper arete is a worrying contrast. The lower arete can be climbed on the right to give a tough direct start, Too Good to be Forgotten, f6A. © Rockfax

FA. John Allen 1971

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes.

Stefan_Morris 01/Nov Lead rpt
with James Sailsbury
Tommy Moore 17/Oct Lead dog

Had a couple of slumps on the rope, nice moves, just wish I was fitter, stronger, better coordinated, more flexible etc etc etc.

with Hallam
Sam Husband 10/Oct Lead rpt

Climbed with superfresher. The rock was nicer than two weeks ago but it was still a struggle.

with A.Freshman
Felix la shat 04/Oct Lead O/S
Sam Husband 27/Sep Lead dnf

I fell off. Ed fell off and dogged it. I fell off in second and dogged it. Top end E1.

with Ed
Stroppy 27/Sep Lead dog
buxtoncoffeelover 22/Sep 2nd

Athletic/strenuous start, then off-balance/strenuous to get onto arete, easy finish. Excellent challenge

cragsman9000 02/Aug 2nd RP

Couldn't commit to crux rockover, to get established on the slab, on lead. Did it first attempt on second.

with Neil
Hidden 25/Jul Lead O/S
DanChad 23/Jul Lead O/S
Hannes B 23/Jul Solo β
CharlieMack 23/Jul 2nd O/S
with Joe Salter
Hidden 19/Jul Lead O/S
A Jackson 19/Jul Lead O/S
Fraser hill-casey 11/Jul Lead G/U
Hidden 04/Jul Lead β
kermit_uk 21/Jun Lead G/U

After escaping into the gully previously manned up this time.

with Phil Parkin, Michelle
Michelle_250 21/Jun 2nd
with Phil, kermit_uk
morganator 19/Jun 2nd
with Dave Hollinger, Stan Halstead
Louishmouis 05/Jun Solo O/S
marconi 03/Jun Lead O/S
with Chris
Lukem6 24/May Lead O/S
Tom Redmond 21/May Lead O/S
with kelly campbell
Sam McCarthy 20/May 2nd RP
ralphio 17/May Lead O/S
with Martin
dom94 13/May Lead G/U

Had a mare on this a year or so ago, glad to get it done today

vinni 10/May Lead O/S
PenJD 04/May Lead dnf

Climbed flake and on to ledge ok but then couldn't commit to top slab, escaped off to the right. Pretty disappointed. One to go back for when I've got more routes done this year and my head's in the right place.

with Rachel Briggs
Hidden 26/Apr TR rpt
cem 23/Apr Lead rpt

More precarious than I remembered.

with Peter Debbage
Neal Jobling 09/Apr 2nd

Backed off the balancy moves to gain the upper arÍte on lead and let Gavin take over. Done the moves seconding using a small pebble to stop the barn door, felt hard!

with Gavin Singleton
JimboWizbo 06/Apr Lead O/S

With Beth's cams in the first flake. Great varied route with some really weird off balance moves.

with Beth
Hidden 06/Apr 2nd dog
Hidden 06/Apr Lead dnf
Albachoss 04/Apr 2nd β


jack01 02/Apr Lead G/U

Felt great to top out

with charley
charley 02/Apr 2nd rpt
with Jack
TonyF ?/Apr 2nd
with John Shields, Paul Threthewey
Lukem6 22/Mar Lead dnf
with sam w
robgixer ??/2015 Lead
MarcinGobczynski ??/2015 Lead O/S
Stefan_Morris 06/Dec/14 Lead O/S
with Laura G
WillDoyle 04/Nov/14 Solo O/S
bencoope 26/Oct/14 Lead O/S
pc1983 12/Oct/14 Lead dog

Topped out the climb on Andy's gear that he placed in the final break after Andy backed off. The bottom crack and swing out onto the face seem OK, but not very graceful. The top moves require a bit of balance but with a side pull for the right hand and a high left foot, the arete becomes a little more balanced. Then once established the top out is fine.

HaleAlex 12/Oct/14 2nd β
Stroppy 05/Oct/14 2nd O/S
with Roger Kirke, Sky Lee Si Kai
Stroppy 05/Oct/14 2nd rpt
with Liam
RKirke 05/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Freshers
lday 05/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Took a while to find how to approach the second section. It's delicate and committing. Tricky but nice moves

Matt Shepherd 02/Oct/14 Lead RP
mop449 28/Sep/14 2nd RP

Took a fall on the hand traverse and hit the deck. Got it clean second go though.

with Sam Carr
kyaizawa 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Emma Reynolds 31/Aug/14 2nd O/S
mark12345 30/Aug/14 Lead
with julian
georgenvk 17/Aug/14 Lead dnf
Hidden 09/Aug/14 Lead β
Hidden 22/Jul/14 2nd O/S
charley 06/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Hard & a bit scary but lovely route even with the minor epic. Was expecting the first half to be tricky & was worried I would pump out so didn't bother extending the gear (stupid mistake), found the moves straight forward and pulled around onto the ledge easily but then had a stupid amount of drag (single rope as well). Thought that's all I needed when pushing my grade and then the weather turned as well and it got bloody windy really quickly. Spent awhile (AGGESSS) going up and down, trying to work out the crux & trying to avoid the barn-door. Even getting the cam in was tricky, the wind really didn't help. Couldn't even cheat with height on this one. Came close to escaping off right and got angry with both myself & the route however did it in the end. Was very balancy & tenuous but excellent. Felt closer to 5c the way I did it but could of been the conditions? Really pleased to have stuck with it but didn't appreciate the added spice of the drag and wind.

with JackD
Jackwd 06/Jul/14 2nd
shouter 19/Jun/14 TR
kenneM 14/Jun/14 Lead
with Henry Crosby
Theeni 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Mike Kennedy
simon1965 31/May/14 Lead rpt

Never feels not scary!

with Scot slim boy
Hidden 31/May/14 Lead dnf
dean79 23/Mar/14 Lead dnf

managed to get the final cam in but could not work out crux onto arete! felt very unbalanced. frustrating.

robblowen 19/Feb/14 Solo O/S

Top rope solo, only just made the move round onto the ledge everything I grabbed was green and damp!

spidermonkey09 19/Jan/14 Lead β

Led through Jack's gear. Felt bloody hard for E1. Did the arete with use of heels and pebbles, necky!

john lynch 19/Jan/14 2nd
with ed luke
Jack93 19/Jan/14 2nd RP

Fell off twice on the lead stepping up off the ledge before giving up, Jim led through my gear.

brownie mike ??/2014 Lead
andyman666999 ??/2014 Lead dnf

Lead DNF. Pete sportingly states I backed off. I fell off. Multiple times, gear placements are good :-), the arete felt tricky and off balance, not my forte.

curlycarl 10/Nov/13 Lead β
JasonK 06/Oct/13 Lead

Took a while to work out how to get established on the lay-back arete.

justinboynton 06/Oct/13 TR dog
with Paul
Calum Wadsworth 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Side runner out right

with micki
amccann 05/Oct/13 Lead dog
MSchobitz 05/Oct/13 2nd O/S
Gabe Oliver 07/Sep/13 Lead O/S

1st grit E1; no soft touch!

robaj 16/Aug/13 2nd dog

Shaun escaped right. Difficult arete..

Hidden 12/Aug/13 Solo
dr_botnik 28/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with deacon
deacondeacon 28/Jul/13 Lead

Possibly seconded this previously but not sure, it seemed a little familiar.

climberchristy 07/Jul/13 Lead rpt

Pleased to lead this clean on a VERY hot day, having failed to get it clean a year or so ago. Tricky crux takes a bit of working out.

with Keith Swainson
Hidden 05/Jul/13 2nd dog
Hardcore Pat 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with CJ Carter
Bowzle 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S
mrteale 29/Jun/13 Lead dog

Spent a long time trying to gain the upper arete but couldn't work out the tricky move up and took a short, silly fall. As soon as I got back on, I cracked the move and topped out! bugger. Good but hard climb.

Hidden 29/Jun/13 2nd dnf
Hidden 25/Jun/13 Lead dnf
philboy 31/May/13 2nd
Cake 31/May/13 Lead O/S

I couldn't figure out the barn-door lay back, but eventually managed a tenuous rock-over using a good pocket low on the right, stretching to a hold on the left with a bit of jabbering. Excellent route though. Hard E1, perhaps 5c the way I did it.

with Phil B
Sam Simpson 22/May/13 2nd O/S
with Sam Stephenson
Haydn Jones 22/May/13 2nd O/S
with the captain
tomthecoolperson 08/May/13 2nd
with Andrew
angie 03/May/13 2nd
Paul Eckton 03/May/13 Lead O/S
with steve read
leglesslizard ?/May/13 Lead RP
Hidden 20/Apr/13 2nd
will_benfold 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Aileen
danny33 ?/Mar/13 Lead
Kyle Rance 17/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with Ollie Hoffman
Hidden 17/Feb/13 2nd
wrapped in bacon 13/Nov/12 Lead RP

First half of the climb was very fluid and straight forward. Fell off the 'barn door' people have mentioned TWICE! Third time went well. I suggest others don't do the same - it hurts!!!

with Daryl
Hidden 10/Nov/12 Lead
Daniel Heath 03/Nov/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Nov/12 2nd rpt
ashtond6 21/Oct/12 Lead dog

hard hard hard! biggest barn door ever took a fall ended up about 3 ft off the ground! Surely 5c????

Ewano 14/Oct/12 Solo O/S

Quite hard, a cheeky solo. Awkward and committing moves. Watch out for the barn door!

Hidden 09/Sep/12 2nd
hotfeet 26/Aug/12 2nd
with Iain Gray
oodie72 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
waynem1985 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Rampikino 22/Jul/12 Lead
with Cat
kermit_uk 24/Jun/12 Lead dnf

Finished up the chimney on the right. Bottled it from ledge. Next time be braver!

with Jen Dearden, Billy Gwinnutt
thetradlad 24/Jun/12 Lead O/S

a little puzzling

yarrow 24/Jun/12 2nd dog
oliver.ghill91 20/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Zardoz
Alkis 20/Jun/12 2nd rpt
lcullum7 17/Jun/12 2nd
Amy Kilpin 04/Jun/12 2nd
JenDear ?/Jun/12 2nd dog

Couldn't get round the corner! Tough move for me.

Hidden 21/May/12 Lead O/S
Oliver Houston 21/May/12 Lead β

Lead on Steve's gear, he won the coin toss! V. complicated moves on the upper arete.

mbradberry2008 12/May/12 Lead dnf
jwpil 09/May/12 Lead O/S
with Deacon
Fraser hill-casey 05/May/12 Lead dnf

Harder than it looks. I took my first Trad fall on this, proceeded to top rope and complete it. looking forward to coming back and trying this again!

gingerwolf 05/May/12 2nd rpt
hamishjoe 05/May/12 TR
benkelsey 16/Apr/12 Lead β

lead on chris' terrible gear after he backed off it. sketchy off balance move, numb fingers. harder thna LTS by some margin.

Dave 88 14/Apr/12 Lead dnf

Bloody hell. Bottled soloing this a few months back and I'm glad I did. Could not get established on the upper arete to save my life! Had to scurry up the grotty corner. It's a never...'till next time.

with Kemics
Kemics 14/Apr/12 2nd dog

Fell off the first move. Got the crux clean but had to really yard on a crimp. Would be an unpleasant lead.

with Dave 88
chrisbussell 27/Mar/12 2nd
with Tim O'Neill
Michael Aylen 23/Mar/12 2nd dog
with SI
Matt Cooke 17/Mar/12 2nd dog
with Rosh
edmitchell 10/Mar/12 Lead dog
Hidden 10/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Adam Booth 10/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Nick Russell 25/Feb/12 Lead O/S
SJS 25/Feb/12 2nd
with Nick
mattgrange 19/Feb/12 Lead dnf

That didn't go very well, much harder and less obvious than I thought, but mainly illustrates the folly of getting straight on an E1 after six months of no grit climbing...

sid_himself ??/2012 -
big djw ??/2012 2nd
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Solo
Nick Sillem ??/2012 Lead O/S
admackie ??/2012 -
mbradberry2008 30/Oct/11 Lead dnf
with Tom Jagger
Richard P Coates 28/Oct/11 2nd dog
ianjfsutcliffe 28/Oct/11 Lead dog
with Coatesy
AielSavage 26/Oct/11 Lead O/S
joe.91 20/Oct/11 Lead dnf

Got up to the ledge fine but found the next move onto the arete really hard and awkward! Went up and down a few times until i whipped off!

Olli-C 20/Oct/11 Lead dnf


Dibdawg 16/Oct/11 Lead dnf
with Jeph Stewart
pie_eater_pete 14/Oct/11 Solo rpt
nepsoi999 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with nadeem
nadeem 01/Oct/11 2nd
barni 29/Sep/11 -
with Ami
jack89 15/Sep/11 Lead dnf

I think phased at the grade-a first for me, resulting in fear induced tunnel vision and my first big wipper! Quality climbing

with Mark20
Hidden 11/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/11 Lead O/S
pmurdy 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
tmawer 13/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Jaime Robertson
Neil Rodgers (PCC) 04/Aug/11 2nd dog

Nice first half up the flake, crux is very unbalanced, slipped a little but got there. Lead by Steve

with Steve Carty, Marilyn
MeMeMe 31/Jul/11 Lead
Goose4 24/Jul/11 Lead β
drysori 09/Jul/11 Lead
with Andy Gray
JamieSparkes 30/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Nick
Nick1812P 30/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Jamie
Alex.M-M. 21/Jun/11 Lead RP
Hidden 06/Jun/11 2nd β
Hidden 21/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/May/11 Lead
AndyFunnell 02/May/11 2nd
with Duncan Bell
adam carless 28/Apr/11 Lead O/S

great route, loads of variety in a short space - layback, jam, haul, mantle, smear, rockover, arete. Top sequence seemed fine once I'd finished faffing with the gear.

with AdrianS
stvredmond 25/Apr/11 Lead

the thuggy bottom section followed by the biggest barn dooring sensation in the world. loved it and terrified me at the same time

Chris M 25/Apr/11 Lead
with Graham R
Helnorris 25/Apr/11 2nd
Rob Laird 24/Apr/11 Lead dnf

First climbing day of the year and set my sights a bit too high. Struggled getting established in the upper face. Next time!

chrisbrown_023 23/Apr/11 2nd dog
flashpanther 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/11 TR O/S
gavster2405 09/Apr/11 TR
Mr Sparkle 07/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Skell 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Jules
gazfellows 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Brilliant route, quiet a move off the ledge tho but a classic tick... worth more than 1 star..

Hidden 12/Mar/11 Lead dnf
sam corbett 23/Jan/11 -
with Alistair Corbett
bigdrew 20/Jan/11 Lead O/S
with James
Goodstuff 20/Jan/11 2nd
sam corbett ??/2011 Lead O/S
with Alistair Corbett
jfane ??/2011 Lead O/S
mwatson ??/2011 -
DeanD ??/2011 -
DeanD ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
mark20 13/Nov/10 Lead O/S
gingerwolf 07/Nov/10 2nd O/S
Ffej 06/Nov/10 TR dnf
98%monkey 06/Nov/10 TR rpt

Top-roped as my cams didn't fit. I should have gone for it on the wnadering cam but it never feels like that at a time.

with Jeff
sasmojo 30/Oct/10 Lead
with Richard A
Hidden 30/Oct/10 Solo O/S
cliffrad 27/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Harri777 24/Oct/10 2nd

Well, sort of. Horribly dogged and finished up nextdoor HVD due to darkness.

with Liz
Dizz 24/Oct/10 Lead dnf

Interesting! First bit harder than it looks - fell off a bit. Got it after, but by then a bit dark so ran away up the chimney - green and slimy :) Much muttering from second but cheered up for the last bit :)

ffdalton 17/Oct/10 Lead dog
with Dean Dalton
kevp 13/Oct/10 Lead
JonBrown 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S
katiep 10/Oct/10 TR dog
with Jon Brown
riddle 10/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with Mike Stephenson, Tom Elliot
dswansonlow 10/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with John Brown
searla 10/Oct/10 2nd O/S
Gazleah 06/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with paul jones, tom ireson
Hidden 04/Oct/10 Lead O/S
galpinos 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Mark
Hidden 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S
melonmike 02/Oct/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Sep/10 Lead dnf
FlorianCastagne 16/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Guillaume Lion
metal arms 07/Aug/10 Lead
pie_eater_pete 31/Jul/10 Lead O/S
davewsargent 31/Jul/10 2nd
peaches69 29/Jul/10 Lead O/S

brown trouser moments on the upper half. pebble pulling and blind foot placements, ahhhhhhh. found harder than setinal

with sarah
roberto18 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S

surprisingly awkward

with Dad (Mike Bridges)
mike bridges 25/Jul/10 2nd O/S

tricky to stop yourself barndooring to get established on the top arete.Done after both of us passed our SPA awards.

Hidden 22/Jun/10 Lead dnf
gordonday 17/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with clive
tomthecoolperson 14/Jun/10 Lead O/S
ben_250 14/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Andrew, Tom
Hidden 14/Jun/10 2nd O/S
jshields 02/Jun/10 2nd

Led on site 1994 approx.

with Paul Tretheway, Tony Fidler
TonyF 02/Jun/10 Lead
coombsy ?/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Danny C
najki_2000 31/May/10 2nd O/S

Mato's second day on Grit; had a go myself seconding it, pumpy bottom, scary top

with Chris Rose
nigel pearson 30/May/10 Lead O/S

The arete was a real puzzle and the climb name summed up how I felt.

with Yoko
odox 15/May/10 2nd rpt

Fell off the first transfer from crack to ledge (wasn't thinking) did the balancey slab but it felt hard for 5b!

Oliver Branagan 15/May/10 2nd O/S

Should have lead it, super commiting crux move, powerful on a delicate hold.

with Mikey B
tom144807 15/May/10 Lead O/S

Felt hard for 5b, maybe 5C? Found the move up the arete v committing and didn't have the right sized cam to protect it! Lovely route.

tom144807 15/May/10 Lead O/S
RobSimmo 09/May/10 TR rpt

After bottling it on the lead. Got to the ledge but couldn't leave it!

with Will Slater
Chris_barr 05/May/10 2nd O/S
with Jim
Jonathan Hall 05/May/10 Lead

Balancy, wish I had my own rack that day as I was a bit short on bomber protection with what I had. I got worried when I had to use a couple of small pebbles for balance, definately a easier way than that!

psychomansam 05/May/10 2nd

tricky balancey moves off ledge. Would i "throw" on lead?

tinyali 05/May/10 TR dog
with Sam Stringer, Johnny
geddicakes 24/Apr/10 Lead
with Fraser
jamiev 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S

spent about 15 mins standing on the ledge working out how to do it. Lovely thoughtful balancy grit action.

with Sean Lynch
robin_hackney 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Paul Hackney
mark20 17/Apr/10 Lead dnf
Fergus Cuthill 16/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
cem 11/Apr/10 2nd rpt
theotherpetehill 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Andrew Barker 09/Apr/10 Solo O/S

Powerful moves to the ledge and interesting moves to leave it. I found a good non-precarious method as I didn't fancy barn-dooring with no rope. Felt about 5b that way.

Ketu 08/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Graeme Hammond 08/Apr/10 Lead O/S

felt hard (and harder than the sentinel), 5c or was it the heat, the lack of a warm up, crap technique and after work?? never mind after a couple of moments dithering getting the not so great cam in and working out what to do I got up it.

with Rob
willoates 14/Mar/10 Solo O/S
ciaran1999 07/Mar/10 Lead rpt
with tom kelly
Ali.B ?/Mar/10 Lead dnf

single hard reachy move

ross hold ??/2010 Lead O/S
williamsd79 ??/2010 Lead O/S
stephenhartley ??/2010 2nd
DeanD ??/2010 Lead
james999 ??/2010 2nd
Hidden ??/2010 Solo O/S
garywong 31/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Mark Shale 31/Oct/09 2nd dog
with Gary
LoopyLou 30/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Great climb. Crafty footwork/moves will avoid barn door and open up an easy finish up the arete. Bold and committing, a route with a personality and wink. A nice route to end the year.

with Helen Lear
Byronius Maximus 25/Oct/09 2nd dog

Fell off the arete towards the top which was a bit annoying as I had done the crux. I thought this was harder technically than Sentinel, although I was only seconding.

Hidden 25/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Trefo 18/Oct/09 2nd O/S

Hard for the grade.Swinging onto the arete is the hardest move, Si used the arete, I made the most of the tiny pebbles on the slab.Great route!!!

with Si Litchfield
r@bag 18/Oct/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Jim Slater 24/Sep/09 2nd O/S

Bloody hard move from the ledge!!5c!!

with Trevor Wilson
Em66 19/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Mat
Hidden 17/Sep/09 TR dnf
Ollie B 16/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with T Nichols
GeorgeArmstrong 14/Jun/09 Lead dnf

Struggled on the move from the ledge to the top, fell off once.

with Rob Harrison
Hidden ?/Jun/09 Lead dnf
Hidden 12/May/09 2nd
jibberingwreck 03/May/09 -
themax16 ?/May/09 2nd O/S

Both seconded this route as a tricky finish. to lead next time.

Hidden 25/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Steerpike 15/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Tommo
ewen 13/Apr/09 Solo O/S
ewen 13/Apr/09 Lead O/S
tommytwotone 06/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Nigel
krikoman 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S

My first E1, a good struggle on the first section. Needed to calm down and get my head together for the commiting final section.

Hidden 04/Apr/09 Lead rpt
Si dH 04/Apr/09 2nd RP

Fell off this on lead a qhile ago. Flashed it seconding today, only just though! Definitely 5c and hard for it.

with Neil Furniss
Hidden 21/Mar/09 -
Diggler 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with jonah
Harry Thorpe 11/Mar/09 2nd O/S
with Phil
thomasadixon 01/Mar/09 Lead rpt

Very tricky upper crux, nice when you do it but I climbed up and down before committing loads of times!

with andy
sdht ??/2009 -
Domin ??/2009 2nd dnf

Never. well maybe another day. spent 20mins standing on my mates shoulders trying to get a cam out, that hard walked into the crack

Dunx 07/Dec/08 Lead rpt
with Adam
Hidden ?/Dec/08 Lead
feilx 19/Oct/08 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/08 2nd
tlr 27/Sep/08 Lead
with Pom
andrew300169 27/Sep/08 2nd dog

I didn't find the move right from the flake to bad, but that could be different on lead. I made a mess of the crux though when I actually sussed out the move it wasn't that bad. Good lead by Tim though

with Tim
john lynch 25/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Lewis Andrew
beeson_paul 16/Aug/08 2nd

soggy gear :(

Rampikino 02/Aug/08 Lead
with Cat
cem 02/Aug/08 Lead rpt
PeteH 30/Jul/08 Lead O/S

Lovely stuff! Diciest bit for me was moving out right from the top of the flake; I spent a lot of time faffing at "the crux", trying to get gear in from a very awkward position (that shown in the photo in the Rockfax guide, I'm ashamed to admit) before I realised it's actually a lot easier (for me) to just move on up! Great climb though.

sce8 27/Jul/08 2nd dog
with George Taylor
The Mountain Goat 27/Jul/08 2nd dog
with George Taylor
briar4012 26/Jul/08 TR RP
Hidden 26/Jul/08 TR O/S
Will Hunt 25/Jul/08 Lead O/S

An aptly named route. Nearly fell off the hand traverse with no protection in. Told my belayer I was off and spotted my landing but thought I had best commit. Dithered and dithered about the crux before doing it a very odd way (staying very close to the arete, pinching it high up, rocking up and then swivelling before crossing my foot through!). Felt about 5c that way.

with Sean Jacobs
Jeronimo 24/Jul/08 Lead dnf

couldn't do the crux. the cam placement isn't great, fumbled around doing it and was too pumped. Backed off.

Hidden 08/Jul/08 Lead β
Hidden 08/Jul/08 Lead dnf
Hidden 08/Jul/08 2nd dog
jl 01/Jul/08 Lead dnf
with Penny
pennyb 01/Jul/08 2nd dog
with Jon
98%monkey ?/Jul/08 -

Had to back off as opposing nuts in a cam crack really didn't inspire me and when I backed the gear up the drag was enormous. Before cams this would have been ok with nuts but the rock looked worn from use of cam :(

with Annabel
Karl Wooffindin 15/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Ollie Hemstock
Tom Eagle 13/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Took a while to figure out the crux, but got it in the end - glad to find the friend slots! Great route.

with Dave Greenald
bridget143 09/Jun/08 2nd dog
with Brown
Brown 09/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Bridget
dread-i 02/Jun/08 Lead O/S

First E1

with Chris Tan
riddle 17/May/08 Lead O/S
with Yasmina
MD 10/May/08 2nd dog
with Misha
Hidden 07/May/08 Lead O/S
kfowler141 26/Apr/08 Lead
Hidden 08/Feb/08 Lead dnf
BenJacobs 08/Feb/08 2nd
with Dw
Martin Haworth 06/Jan/08 Lead O/S
with Andy
Andrew Sloan 06/Jan/08 2nd dog
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/08 Lead
daveagriff ??/2008 TR
Somerset swede basher 06/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Sarah Stirling
MeMeMe 04/Nov/07 2nd
with Nick and Andy
Ben Harper 27/Oct/07 Lead dog
with joe sargent
Cragrat Rich 24/Oct/07 Lead O/S

Hard going to reach the ledge and then taxingly technical above

Hidden 24/Oct/07 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 20/Oct/07 Solo O/S
SteveM 07/Oct/07 Lead rpt
with Kat
kitkat78 07/Oct/07 2nd dog
with SteveM
Hidden 20/Sep/07 Lead
nai 11/Sep/07 2nd rpt
with Simon Shaw
nai 25/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Slipped at the crux but held the slot dangling around the left of the arete. Managed to reverse back to the ledge and complete the route.

with Rob & Rik
climbingrick 19/Jun/07 Lead dnf

Nice climb but top section hard for the short!

Hidden 08/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/07 -
Pythonist 14/Mar/07 Lead O/S

Cracking route with a little of everything at the grade.

with Teddington
Hidden 14/Mar/07 2nd
Pete Graham ??/2007 Lead O/S
with James Fleming
Nicos 04/Nov/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Oct/06 Lead dnf
Hidden 30/Sep/06 Solo
Joe Costello 26/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Liam
Hidden 06/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Steve Vincent 25/Jun/06 2nd
Ram MkiV 03/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Alex
timreynolds 27/May/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/May/06 Lead
dan gibson 11/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with AJ
Hidden ??/2006 Lead
Hidden ??/2006 2nd
Hidden ??/2006 -
ASchwirtz 02/Oct/05 Lead dnf
Phil West 29/Aug/05 2nd dog
with Chris Tan
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 21/May/05 Lead O/S
BruceW ?/May/05 Lead O/S

Well named!

with Jen
Hidden 24/Apr/05 Solo rpt
Chris M ??/2005 -
Peakology ?/Sep/04 Lead O/S

Easy for the grade

with rich 2nd
Hidden 03/May/04 Lead dog
LankyPaddy 25/Apr/04 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Jon Greengrass ??/2004 2nd O/S
with reeeve
Hidden ??/2004 -
Daniel Armitage 01/Oct/03 Lead O/S
Phil West 21/Sep/02 Lead dnf

Looking like never....

with Chris Tan
AJ007 ?/Sep/02 Lead O/S
cem 17/Aug/02 Lead rpt
with Mark Lim
cem 07/Oct/01 Lead dog
with Miles Butteriss
Hidden 08/Jul/00 2nd
Hidden 08/Jul/00 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/00 2nd
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
clive-greenwood 22/Mar/99 Lead
kato'sdad ?/Jun/98 Lead
RobSimmo ?/Jun/98 2nd
Hidden ??/1997 -
Hidden 16/Jun/96 2nd O/S
Phil West 08/Jun/96 Lead dnf
with David Atherton
Hidden 29/Oct/95 Lead
John Southworth 12/Sep/95 Solo O/S
Charles Arthur 16/Jul/95 Lead O/S
with Rick of MMC
Hidden 01/Jun/95 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/95 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/94 Lead
Hidden 29/May/94 Lead
GrahamHP ??/1994 Lead dnf

Fell off, gear gave way, Ouch !!!!

with David Stynes
Roget 16/Oct/93 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/93 Lead
NickJH ?/Aug/92 -
Hidden 31/May/92 Lead
mik1miller ??/1992 Solo
Hidden ?/Sep/90 -
Chris the Tall ?/Sep/89 Lead

Used a runner off to to the right

with Dave Gurney
Stoney Boy 20/Jun/89 Lead O/S
with Colin Hughes
goi.ashmore 03/Jul/88 Solo β
stp ??/1988 Solo O/S
Michael Hood 09/Mar/85 Lead
mark-abz 19/Sep/82 2nd
with Andy W
nbotting ??/1980 -
KRB 13/Aug/79 Solo O/S
Andy Fielding ??/1979 TR
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Sam Husband, BAdhoc, ashtond6, Sam McCarthy, Geoff82, hellboundblr, Alex Hallam, hirving, Hidden, Larey, Hidden, RBonney, Hidden, hamishjoe, iliff, Dave 88, Justaname, crag_hopper_Jay, misskebab, Graham C, crazy pierre, Hidden, PebblePusher, ajc, AndyFrank, Hidden, petellis, Scott McRae, Hidden, PanzerHanzler, JLS, blancbleu
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 122
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 120
Votes cast 107
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set