40m. Straight up top crack instead of traversing left on jugs.

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales E3's.


ClimberDateStyle
Alex Mason 17/May Lead O/S

Sublime! Obviously.

with Jack lawledge
soph 16/May Lead rpt
with Tash Ottley
deacondeacon 14/May Lead O/S

Expecting a hard section to come along but thankfully it never came. Was a little concerned by the exposure though. Mega route!

w.pettet-smith ?/May -
with andy west
Shawty 24/Apr Lead O/S
with Aggi
mcgovern 22/Mar Lead

Superb pitch

with AMY l3
AMY l3 22/Mar 2nd
Hidden 22/Mar Lead G/U
Hidden ??/2016 -
anguskille 02/Nov/15 Lead rpt
Tom Livingstone 02/Nov/15 2nd rpt
Hidden 03/Oct/15 TR
MarcinGobczynski ?/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Rachel Slater 26/Sep/15 Lead O/S

OS the finish bit. Doesn't feel any harder than LW if you aren't pumped.

tim newton 26/Sep/15 2nd rpt
Hidden 19/Sep/15 Lead
Hidden 10/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jul/15 2nd β
Brian H 03/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Onsight for top bit - have done Left Wall original route before. Direct finish is well protected and not much harder.

bede.west 23/Jun/15 Lead O/S

felt good at the end of left wall so went direct up the "true-er" line. improves the route, nice to see it makes it a grade harder to, it does add to it :). Really please to get this ticked before leaving Bangor and uni... :')

Owain Llewelyn 23/May/15 2nd
with Gareth E
Hidden 15/May/15 2nd rpt
soph 12/May/15 2nd
with Klemen Zumer
Hidden 06/Apr/15 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/2015 -
kingholmesy ??/2015 2nd O/S
with Brian H
Hidden ??/2015 2nd
waynekinrade ??/2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S
shed_hed 22/Sep/14 2nd rpt

Looked at escaping out right and finishing the normal way this time but it didn't look as good so continued straight up. Great route.

with Rob Partridge
bigdrew 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Cam
kermit_uk 14/Sep/14 2nd dog
wi11 10/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Helen G
wolf.leeb 05/Sep/14 2nd O/S

with nic
Ed morris 08/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Alice Thompson 04/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Miles
Hidden 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/14 Lead
dr_botnik 18/Jul/14 2nd dog

Quite sustained. i found it difficult to recover after the crux traverse and had to rest on the rope to retrieve gear and work the final few moves.

with Andy
Andy Peak 1 17/Jul/14 Lead

Hard until you find the pockets which make it much essayer than trying to fingerlock the crack

Hidden 25/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Sarah Black 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
steveb2006 15/May/14 Lead

Done normal route a few times but the direct finish adds a bit - good stuff

Jay.Carr 15/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Malin Kvist
samwillo 14/Apr/14 Lead
with The Bear
DavidPC 13/Mar/14 2nd
Matt.c.Warner 13/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Dave
Dan724 12/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Not much harder than the original, but still harder than most E2's I've been on! Superb route though and probably better than the normal finish. Felt great to be out trad climbing in the sun again after 4 months of rain. Have definitely lost some fitness!

mr mills ??/2014 -
with ioan d
Tom Livingstone 28/Aug/13 Lead β

Had seconded Left Wall a while ago, but never been on this bit. Soft.

with Calum Muskett
Matt Harle 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Justin T 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Hadn't intended to do the direct finish but didn't spot the traverse off. Brill!

Hidden 19/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/13 2nd
Daniel Heath 08/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Good to get this classic done. E3 finish is superb.

Hidden 08/Jul/13 2nd O/S
dswansonlow 06/Jul/13 2nd rpt

Better than the Left Wall finish. Incredible climb.

jacobjlloyd 06/Jul/13 Lead dog

fluffed the last move, disco legged off the foothold. I am never going to get over the frustration, falling off the warm-up

with Dougie
jacobjlloyd 06/Jul/13 Lead rpt

had to do it again.

with Dougie
centurion05 ?/Jul/13 2nd
with patch
Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
andyinglis 25/May/13 Lead O/S

Found out I had (unintentionally) done the direct finish when I got back to the ledge! Maybe should read the description next time! Brilliant pitch, with climbing getting more difficult the higher you get!

with James Wheater, Steve Addy
shed_hed 02/May/13 Lead O/S

Amazing.

dan ely 07/Apr/13 2nd rpt
with dan
Hidden 31/Mar/13 2nd O/S
Bruce Houston 18/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Mike
Michael Allday 18/Sep/12 2nd rpt
Ed Babs 06/Sep/12 2nd O/S

Only a couple of moves, but very nice.

Hidden 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby 23/May/12 Lead O/S

Wow, forgotten how good LW is.....

with Ruth
Stone Muppet 22/May/12 Lead O/S

Probably not harder than the low crux of Left Wall, for the tall

with cc
Luke Brooks 15/Mar/12 Lead rpt
with Konrad Doyle
Hidden ??/2012 -
alice fuller ??/2012 2nd O/S
with woj
dan ely 27/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with helen
halfmanhalfbiscuit ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
zero six ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
dan ely 30/Jun/11 2nd rpt
with terry
Hidden 30/Jun/11 Lead dog
david morse 14/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with Dan B
dan ely 14/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with ben (the heights)
al99 07/Jun/11 Lead O/S
centurion05 07/Jun/11 2nd
with benji
markalmack 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with james marjot
dan ely 19/Apr/11 Lead rpt
with tim, tony (army)
willoates 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Amazing! going to do it again... and again..

Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
centurion05 ??/2011 -
Ed Booth 01/Sep/10 2nd O/S

Never been up the direct finish. Not really much worse than the main crack. Perhaps better than the original.

dan ely 11/Aug/10 2nd dog

rested on the crux of direct finish. Pumped!

with rich
greenclimb 03/Jul/10 Lead rpt
HIGHTOWER 15/Jun/10 2nd
centurion05 15/Jun/10 Lead
Hidden 31/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/May/10 2nd
Hidden 27/Apr/10 2nd
masa-alpin 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S

I felt quite rusty, particularly my head was awful, but I was pleased to have managed to flash it. It was not easy but never desperate. Superb route! I did not mean to do this direct finish, but just ended up. Definitely this is the more natural line than the original!

with Doug S
Hidden 24/Apr/10 2nd
samrad 21/Apr/10 Lead O/S

really great climbing! i was plannin on just doing left wall but saw the direct finish an thought it looked like better climbing, than escaping off left on the jugs. so thought what the hell and went 4 it.

farmus21 06/Mar/10 Lead dog

Cocked it up.

smallerrich 06/Mar/10 2nd
with James
givemetea 27/Sep/09 Lead dog

took a lob from two metres below the top on the direct finish ... v pumped and fluffed the move. got the move second go. fantastic climb! excellent gear all the way up. bring lots of small wires

Hidden 27/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Glyn 11/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Barni
Hidden 23/Apr/09 Lead dnf
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2009 -
Hidden ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
tumbling wizard ??/2008 -
tumbling wizard ??/2008 -
Hidden 28/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Dave Bond 04/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Rich Hatton
Hidden 19/Apr/07 Lead rpt
Hidden 19/Apr/07 2nd
Tim M ??/2005 -
Ched ??/1998 2nd O/S
with Grant Farqhuar
switch ??/1997 Lead O/S

finish of True Grip - adds another 5b move onto the top of Left Wall (maybe E3 5c if you're short)

FATBOYFAT ??/1992 -
phardman ??/1989 -
Hidden ??/1985 -
Hidden ??/1985 Lead O/S
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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 19
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 19
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set