Rockfax Description
A two-move-wonder starting right of First Crack. It has small holds and the odd useful pocket. Low in the grade but a bit bold. © Rockfax

FA. John Parkin 1977

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500.

Robin Nichols 16/Nov Solo O/S
with Jemma
Mayaculpa 13/Oct TR dog
with Mike Rotraxion
Hidden 27/Sep 2nd O/S
Ciderslider 06/Sep 2nd O/S
with Ben
Matt Groom 11/Aug Solo
Hidden 15/Jul Solo dnf
pebbles 30/May Lead dnf

gear placement for the crux is now very worn, making protection for the crux unreliable. Second crux move is very reachy - bit of a sandbag for the short. Landing nasty. (said with feeling)

with Alex smith
Hidden 23/May Lead dnf
JamieSparkes 14/May Sent β

Cruel at vs in the bmc guide!

with Nick
Chris M 02/May Lead
with Louise
Hidden 26/Apr Lead RP
MSchobitz 20/Apr Solo O/S
Calum Wadsworth 20/Apr Solo O/S
with micki
amccann 10/Apr Solo O/S
Hidden 05/Apr Lead G/U
theomoore 05/Dec/14 Solo O/S
Mayaculpa 28/Oct/14 TR
with Mike Rotraxion
Hidden 19/Oct/14 2nd dog
markK6 19/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Great climb, though I had to have a word with myself before committing to the crux flakes, good holds for topout.

with Simon
spenser 22/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Cracking little route, having a rope on didn't have much point mind, the gear for the hard bit was rubbish! First Grit HVS.

with Charley
charley 22/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Spenser
benlatham07 31/Aug/14 TR O/S
JasonK 27/Jul/14 Lead
deacondeacon 17/Jul/14 Lead O/S


Durkules 17/Jul/14 2nd
Nick1812P 06/Jun/14 Solo O/S
freemanTom 31/May/14 Lead
with Paul Davies
daviesp2 31/May/14 2nd
with Tom
WillDoyle 30/Apr/14 Solo
adam clarke 15/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Delicate crux protected tenuously by #5 (?) brass offset - wouldn't have wanted to test it! Strong cross wind hampered balance and made the short lived crux feel quite tricky

with Adam Lynch
rurp ??/2014 Lead O/S

alien in pocket one move long stretch to high pocket. 5b/c boulder problem

Hidden 20/Dec/13 Solo
john lynch 16/Nov/13 Lead
with rosie, Ant King
aking12 16/Nov/13 2nd O/S
RosieLynch 16/Nov/13 2nd O/S
Dave 88 10/Oct/13 Solo dnf

Fell off the crux of this. Somehow unhurt but not much fun!

Ben1983 06/Oct/13 Solo β
Hidden 06/Oct/13 Solo O/S
Mowglee 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Ali
rocktigger 23/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Clare
Ron 06/Aug/13 2nd
with Scott
Jack.Beech 30/Jun/13 Lead dnf

Very nasty, decked out from the crux. Gear ripped from the crux. Moves quite nice but I'm one lucky guy. Awful landing.

Hidden 08/Jun/13 2nd
Hidden 05/Jun/13 2nd
Joey C 05/Jun/13 2nd
with Irish Matt, Matt Stevens
Hidden 25/May/13 TR
Tamati 28/Feb/13 Solo O/S
john lynch 02/Feb/13 Solo rpt
AlanPedrick ??/2013 -
Hidden 18/Nov/12 Lead O/S
Carter 21/Oct/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Andy Peak 1 20/Oct/12 Lead
with H washbrook
al jackson ?/Oct/12 Solo
loco wilko ?/Aug/12 Lead
rkipling 28/Jul/12 TR O/S
howden82 28/Jul/12 TR
Hidden 23/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Thunderthighsontheloose 23/Jul/12 2nd
joemallia 15/Jul/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jul/12 2nd O/S
John Lewis 24/Jun/12 TR O/S
with Maureen
Hidden 17/Jun/12 2nd rpt
Hidden 08/May/12 Lead O/S
tradguy 05/May/12 2nd O/S
with Ben Knudson, Rob Munday
stefie c 02/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Mar/12 Lead O/S
tomthecoolperson ??/2012 Lead O/S
with Ben 250
Coel Hellier 06/Nov/11 Lead
lozowen 23/Sep/11 Solo O/S
Skell 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S

one okay nut placement near crux.

with Gary
Hidden 20/Aug/11 Lead O/S
erica 13/Aug/11 2nd
with John
John Brayshaw 13/Aug/11 Lead dog
with Erica
jac.c123 10/Jul/11 2nd
with Alister, andyc123
beckywinn 26/Jun/11 2nd
thomasadixon 31/May/11 Lead O/S
with Ade, Wael, Ian
chrisbussell 10/May/11 Lead O/S

Pretty steady for HVS, but nice climbing which makes you think a little.

with Debbie Porter
Hidden 08/May/11 Solo O/S
Julie Carroll 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Paul Williams
adstapleton 19/Mar/11 2nd
gcandlin 19/Mar/11 Lead RP
with Adam stapleton
Steve Waters, Mynydd 06/Mar/11 2nd

Leading this requires faith in a micro-wire.

mtempest 06/Mar/11 Lead
with Steve Waters, Mynydd
Jim Malo 13/Nov/10 Lead dnf
with Barry
Tony Holdsworth 20/Oct/10 2nd O/S

Decided not to lead after looking at the crux move

with Guido
Hidden 20/Oct/10 -
max_chan 17/Oct/10 2nd rpt
with Phil PCC
Goody 17/Oct/10 TR O/S
with Jane Mellor, Suzie Hughes
Just-James 07/Oct/10 TR
ffdalton 02/Oct/10 Lead
with Dean Dalton
julian allen 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
tri-nitro-toulumne 23/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Rich Guest
parksy986 31/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with chris dovey
Hidden 30/Aug/10 TR O/S
r@bag 21/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Nick Payne, Bernie
Hidden 21/Aug/10 2nd
nai 11/Aug/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/10 2nd O/S
shed_hed 31/Jul/10 Lead β

Attempted this previously on lead and top rope and just couldn't do the moves so it was nice to come back and make a clean ascent with no trouble after a good days climbing!

with Andy Winter
Hidden 29/Jul/10 Lead O/S
mattorford 22/May/10 Lead
mic_b 25/Apr/10 Solo O/S
disturbed_one51 17/Apr/10 Lead
Graeme Hammond 15/Apr/10 Lead O/S

My wires didn't seem to sit in the crack, not that I tried very hard so climbed without any gear to the big pocket, Ok route but nothing special

with Ian
gibbo38 11/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with martin
Mr Sparkle 08/Apr/10 Solo O/S
davidwright 28/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with MJP
MJP 28/Mar/10 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
katyvose1 ??/2010 -
Hidden 12/Dec/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Dec/09 Lead O/S
Whitty2012 19/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hardcore Pat 26/Sep/09 Solo
Hidden 20/Sep/09 2nd
Monkey_Alan 20/Sep/09 Lead dog

First grit HVS attempt. Had to rest on the one piece of marginal gear, which came out as I was pulling up the jugs afterwards.

Hidden 17/Sep/09 Lead
shed_hed 23/Aug/09 Lead dnf
phja 23/Aug/09 TR RP
with darren
simonp ?/Jul/09 Solo O/S
maybe_si 05/Jun/09 Solo O/S
charley 24/May/09 TR O/S
with Kev
Tithe Technique 24/May/09 TR
with Charley
Hidden 03/May/09 TR
Hidden 25/Apr/09 TR RP
markburgin83 25/Apr/09 TR
Hidden 19/Apr/09 2nd
Hidden 13/Apr/09 Lead β
fatbuoybazza 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
bobpilgrem 08/Apr/09 Lead β

climbed on top rope before leading.Decent wire in a crack/pocket protects the crux moves up to the right to gain centre of wall, then a long reach for a big pocket.

with Bob/Tom
tompilgrem 08/Apr/09 TR RP

failed on first attempt clean after watching dad do it nice route-small flake on right good enough to balance up to huge juggy pockets

with Dad
Ollie B 29/Mar/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 20/Mar/09 Solo
Somerset swede basher 10/Mar/09 Solo O/S
jsrous ??/2009 Lead dog
with HPC
paul birch ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 Solo O/S
drysori ??/2009 Lead
drysori ??/2009 Lead
drysori ??/2009 Lead
drysori ??/2009 Lead
Hidden ??/2009 -
Diggler 14/Sep/08 Lead O/S
RCrockford 14/Sep/08 2nd
with Mark D
Hidden 22/Jul/08 Solo O/S
Mark Dennison 24/Jun/08 Lead
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 10/Jun/08 Solo O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/08 Solo O/S
Bruce Kerr 24/May/08 Lead
Hidden 13/May/08 TR O/S
Hidden 13/May/08 TR O/S
john lynch 28/Feb/08 TR
with Bo Robertson
BenJacobs 08/Feb/08 Lead dog
with Luke
Hidden 08/Feb/08 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Feb/08 Solo
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/08 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
sadams 16/Nov/07 Solo
with Catherine Adams
frankcp87 09/Nov/07 Lead dnf

Didn't have the conviction on the crux and backed of...

with Jon Rous
frankcp87 06/Nov/07 TR O/S

might have a go at this on a lead, when its not dark, cold and windy....

with Jon Rous
stooby 04/Nov/07 2nd dog
with Charlie
Hidden 14/Oct/07 TR
erinbastian 14/Oct/07 TR
Hidden 15/Sep/07 2nd
dfbpdave 09/Sep/07 TR dog

One fall after starting too far right. Clean on first attempt at first line. Lead next time.

adam carless 25/Aug/07 Lead rpt

Did the proper route this time, starting in the crack on the left. Slightly less worrying with a bit of decent gear.

with Adrian
bullwinkle 11/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Paul
Jacob Ram 11/Jun/07 TR
with elisa best
Mark_RMC 10/Jun/07 Lead

From the ground we knew this would be a project. The last half of the slab requires an incredibly balancy rock over with no decent hand-holds, and then some very delicate footwork. Hard for the grade, and it took me a number of attempts to get the lead. I felt better after both Claire & Richard Battersby lobbed on the second! Putting a poor number 1 nut in a small hold probably didn't help.

with Claire Smart
Hidden 02/May/07 2nd
Monk 15/Apr/07 Solo
with Matt B, Kylie, Mandy, Sam
The Boy Riley 15/Apr/07 Lead
FrankW 14/Apr/07 Lead rpt
with Jane T
mikej 05/Apr/07 TR
with Rick Naylor
Hidden ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
climbingpixie 03/Feb/07 Lead O/S
with Shaun
adam carless 03/Feb/07 Lead O/S

found it a very worrying route, didn't use the left hand crack for gear though, and missed the first pocket.

Rjukan ??/2007 Lead O/S
with George E
Hidden ??/2007 -
Scott N ??/2007 -
Wayne S ??/2007 Lead O/S
Tom Last 16/Dec/06 Lead O/S
with Dad
Oddjob 16/Dec/06 Solo O/S
Brown ?/Nov/06 Solo O/S
with Henry
Hidden 29/Oct/06 Lead dnf
Col Allott 08/Oct/06 Solo O/S
with Alex Sturrock
Hidden 30/Sep/06 2nd
Hidden 30/Sep/06 2nd rpt
Hidden 30/Sep/06 Solo
Oli 24/Sep/06 Solo rpt
max_chan ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Lou
Hidden 28/May/06 2nd
Hidden 06/May/06 Solo
Paz 15/Apr/06 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
Oli 20/Nov/05 Lead O/S
with Ian Killey
nige pacer 20/Nov/05 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 ?/May/05 Solo O/S
Rampikino 10/Apr/05 Lead
with Rob Wilson
Alex Mason ?/Jan/05 Lead

cant remember it

with keith poskitt, rob lonsdale, andy g
Hidden 11/Jul/04 Lead
leon ?/Jul/04 Lead O/S
darren1 03/May/04 -
Tim W 03/May/04 2nd rpt
with Mark Eaton, Darren Miller
Mark A Humphries 06/Feb/04 Solo
Hidden ??/2004 -
Hidden 07/Dec/03 Lead
Hidden 07/Jun/03 2nd RP
Hidden 31/May/03 Solo O/S
Neil Curtis 22/Mar/03 2nd
with Alan Barnes
loonyclimber ?/Mar/03 Lead
Monk ??/2003 Lead O/S
John Lisle 17/Aug/02 Lead
with NW
Hidden 07/Jun/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Dec/01 Lead
Hidden 22/Oct/00 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/00 Lead O/S
phardman 29/May/00 Lead O/S
with Teresa
cem 14/May/00 Lead O/S
with Mladen
Laramadness 27/Apr/00 Lead O/S
with Matt Lawson
tlr ??/2000 Solo
FrankW 02/Oct/99 Lead O/S
with Alex F
r0b 09/May/99 Solo O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/98 2nd
Hidden 16/Aug/98 TR
stokienomad 14/Jun/98 Lead
with Dave Mountford
Hidden 10/May/98 Lead dnf
Tim W 12/Apr/98 Lead RP
with Pete Apps
ellie macpherson 07/Feb/98 2nd

not too cold

with Ian Holmes
Hidden ??/1998 Lead O/S
martroberts 27/Jul/97 Solo O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/97 Solo
Karl Bromelow 14/Feb/97 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1997 -
Phil West 08/Jun/96 Lead O/S
with David Atherton
BlueJohn 20/Apr/96 Solo
Rog Wilko ?/Jun/95 Lead
with Alan Nuttall
cragspud ??/1995 Lead
Hidden ??/1995 2nd
Phil1967 ?/Aug/94 TR
with Ed
Podling ?/Jun/94 Lead
Hidden 10/Oct/93 Solo
Hidden 04/Oct/93 Solo
Hidden 08/Aug/93 Solo
Mick King 15/Mar/93 Solo
andrewbooth1000 ??/1993 TR dog
with Bruv
IanD353 ?/Sep/92 Solo O/S
Chris the Tall ?/May/92 Solo O/S
steve prior ?/Feb/92 Lead
with Rob B
NickJH ??/1992 -
Roget 26/Dec/91 Solo O/S
Iain Thow 06/May/89 Lead

On LH side of slab. Also top roped a direct version

with Paul Whatley, Steve di Ponio
babymoac 01/May/89 2nd
with MTW & Howard
goi.ashmore 30/Jun/88 Solo β
Hidden 25/Oct/87 Solo
Andy Say 26/Jul/87 Solo
Hidden 14/Jun/87 Solo
John Marsland 26/Oct/86 Solo
Hidden 26/Oct/86 Solo
Mark Kemball 03/Dec/83 Lead
with Chris Jones
Rob Davies 29/Sep/83 Solo

Seemed hard when it was given VS 4b

Anton Eady ??/1983 -
Hidden 14/Nov/82 Solo
Hidden 08/Nov/81 Solo
Hidden 27/Jun/80 Solo
Hidden ??/1980 Solo O/S
Hidden 16/Jun/79 Solo
Andy Fielding ??/1979 Solo
Hidden 05/Nov/78 Lead
Mark Kemball 29/Oct/78 Solo
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, sharpie530, halo, Hidden
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 50
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 49
Votes cast 48
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set