UKC

Restricted Access

No access problems. The area is part of the Eastern Edges SSSI designated for its assemblage of breeding birds - please make sure dogs are under control to protect birds and sheep: the grazier has reported losses.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzel nest sites change quickly and frequently as they often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate. 

8m.

Rockfax Description
A two-move-wonder starting right of First Crack. It has small holds and the odd useful pocket. Low in the grade but a bit bold. © Rockfax

FA. John Parkin 1977.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Grit Top Rope Solo

Feedback

User Date Notes
MJS 10 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Tried to lead this and backed off. Glad I did after top roping it. Felt tenuous and technical.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Tried to lead this and backed off. Glad I did after top roping it. Felt tenuous and technical.
slacky 5 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I'd recommend the direct start (as per old BMC Froggart guide), it makes the route more interesting, but not harder.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I'd recommend the direct start (as per old BMC Froggart guide), it makes the route more interesting, but not harder.
Offwidth 19 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: The slot takes a standard wallnut 1 sideways with a near perfect fit and is VS. The sequence to the pocket is 4c and not as reachy as I expected, just a little tricky to spot.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The slot takes a standard wallnut 1 sideways with a near perfect fit and is VS. The sequence to the pocket is 4c and not as reachy as I expected, just a little tricky to spot.
leon 24 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: the only thing i got in was a number 4 rp in the slot. it didn't look amazing but i rekon it'd hold. a nice route, shames it just a two move wonder.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: the only thing i got in was a number 4 rp in the slot. it didn't look amazing but i rekon it'd hold. a nice route, shames it just a two move wonder.
gooose 15 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: No.2 nut in the little slot and a long reach make this a VS. Fun tho'.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: No.2 nut in the little slot and a long reach make this a VS. Fun tho'.
Monk 11 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Best bit of gear I used was a size 1 BD swedge. A good route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Best bit of gear I used was a size 1 BD swedge. A good route.

Logged Ascents

445 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Burbage North

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 24 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 57
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 55
Votes cast 53
Style of Ascent
Lead
Soloed
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Brooks' Crack

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Burbage South Edge)

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