The Fin* E1 5b
[clipping for the final push on the Chant (HVS 5a), Burbage North, 2 kb]8m.

Rockfax Description
The hanging groove is a struggle to enter though at least it has overhead gear. It isn't much easier above either. Often frigged! © ROCKFAX

FA. Neil Stokes 1971

Ticklists: Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes.

Photo: clipping for the final push on the Chant (HVS 5a), Burbage North © Duncan Bourne
View all 8 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 163 logbooks, and on 13 wishlists.

Alan James - UKC and UKH - Lead - 04/Oct/15 with Dominic Green

Jake Young - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/15 with Roger K

Short and hard. The finger slots were really slippery, with quite long reaches between the best slots, and strenuous placing gear.
1poundSOCKS - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/15

TonyB - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/15 with Matt

Matt250 - 2nd dog - 21/Jun/15

Laybacked the left side, apparently you're meant to get 'hand-jams' or something...
harry_lewis - Lead O/S - 13/May/15 with Nina

Pretty 'ard still felt like a stiff pull off the hand jams
shaunhumphreys - Lead O/S - 13/May/15 with franhammond92

amccann - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/15 with Ben Kelsey

Cold hard as just back from skiing
benkelsey - 2nd dog - 27/Apr/15 with Alex Mccan

Tim Rodgers - 2nd dog - 29/Jun/14 with Mike Lea

Unbelievably Pumpy - had to rest on gear
RichyBOYY - Lead dog - 23/Apr/14 with Aaron Martin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/14

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - 2014

Pissed around in greasy jams at the top of the crack had the wrong hand in the good jam and couldn't change... bit of a beast.
Calum Wadsworth - Lead dog - 15/Dec/13 with micki

MSchobitz - 2nd dog - 15/Dec/13 with Calum Wadsworth

MarkRoe - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/13 with Peter Burnett

deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/13

Hard start in the crack tho easier further up! Better holds if not tired from the crack...
stevo smith - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/13 with deacon

An unremarkable route. Can't see why it gets 2 stars? Tough little fight but short-lived.
climberchristy - Lead rpt - 07/Jul/13 with Keith Swainson

Mr Messy - Lead O/S - 25/May/13 with Jason

john lynch - Solo O/S - 06/Apr/13 with Tom

danny33 - Lead - Mar/13

Nick Sillem - Solo O/S - 2013

pulled on gear and everything, getting into the groove was a struggle but not impossible, but i couldn't stay in it
arandall - Lead dog - 04/Nov/12 with George King

Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 20/Oct/12 with H washbrook

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 14/Sep/12

Cool move moving into the groove but hard to stay in!
geoff.comley - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/12 with Vic Paterson

Fragmod - 2nd - 01/Sep/12

tsl42 - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/12 with Gaz Hooson

Excellent jamming crack climbing!
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 27/May/12 with Lee P

Don't know how but I managed to layback the arete to the left of the crack! The jams just weren't solid enough!
Jackwd - Lead O/S - 06/May/12

The guidebook lied. Found getting into the groove hard but okay. Got to the bomber hand jam, placed a cam (maybe in the wrong place) then got pumped silly trying to get any higher - had to rest once then managed to get to the top. Still a big achievement for me as the two main types of routes I normally avoid are anything steep and jamming cracks. Sooo pleased to have managed it..
charley - Lead - 06/May/12 with JackD

Dan started leading it but got where the crack widens. I went up on his gear and almost got it but took a fall from the top of the crack. A few rests later I managed it, using the right arete. Hard and pumpy.
Joris.Roulleau - Lead dog - 05/May/12 with Dan Metcalfe

Wow, brutal, didnt stand a chance. I'm a gritstone blouse.
manwithacam - Lead dnf - 05/May/12 with Joris

Alex@home - 2nd rpt - 16/Apr/12 with The Doctor

Oceanic - 15/Apr/12

Jasminaberry - TR dog - 15/Apr/12

timmyhobby - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/12

JamieSparkes - 2nd O/S - 29/Feb/12 with Nick

Nick1812P - Lead O/S - 29/Feb/12 with Jamie

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

horrendously dogged! But made for much entertainment for the onlookers
gingerking - 2nd dog - 2012 with Alex Randall

Hard work, but not so bad when you now how. Tried after Kyle backed off. Took a couple of failed attempts to figure out the sequence. The top is sustained but good and you can get your hands jammed in.
James Oswald - Lead O/S - 30/Oct/11 with Kyle Wood

Mr. K - Lead dnf - 30/Oct/11 with James Oswald

Took a few goes to work out how to get off the block and into the hanging groove.
Mr. K - 2nd rpt - 30/Oct/11 with James Oswald

btc - Lead dog - 17/Sep/11 with Phil Davis

Hidden - Lead - 28/Aug/11

Goose4 - Lead β - 24/Jul/11 with Paul Moore

ChrisBrooke - Lead dog - 28/May/11 with Peter Staves, Duncan Bell

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/May/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/May/11

Ground up. Fell off twice.
pmurdy - Lead RP - 04/May/11 with Matt H

tomthecoolperson - Lead dog - 18/Apr/11 with Ben 250

ben_250 - 2nd dog - 18/Apr/11 with Tom

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/11

Had rested on this in 3/10, seem to have learned to jam now!
thomasadixon - Lead rpt - 08/Apr/11 with Alan

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Apr/11

belay bunny turned bad - 2nd - 19/Mar/11 with loundsy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead β - 02/Mar/11

Ground up, 1 fall
mark20 - Lead RP - 02/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead - 2011

Pretty tricky and strenuous laybacking, quite absorbing!
Martin Davies - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/10 with Ollie Lister

kevp - Lead - 13/Oct/10 with Martyn Court

Hidden - Lead dnf - 11/Aug/10

williamsd79 - 10/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead dnf - 20/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/10

Sandy Holford - 2nd - 31/May/10 with Anthony Allsopp

Anthony Allsopp - Lead O/S - 31/May/10 with Mark Darby, Sandy Holford

Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 22/May/10 with Ivan

Barry D - 2nd - 15/May/10 with Norm G, Stacey H, Trish

Alexandre Buisse - Lead - 01/May/10

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Apr/10

DaveFidler - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/10

Rather good, I didn't find the gear (used small wires) didn't use or get in way of the best holds or maybe I didn't put the gear in high enough, so the pull up into the perfect jam was straight forward, soft E1
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/10 with Ian

Made it up to the top of the wider jamming crack second go but then fell and hands were too painful to go again!
BeccaSnowden - Lead dnf - 17/Mar/10 with Tom

TonyF - Lead - 2010

Rain pouring down rock.
TonyF - 2nd dnf - 2010

RossG - 2010

barni - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/09 with Strong Jon

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/09

tough route, to E1 what The Grogan is to HVS. Very windy day, not the best warm up route!
danm - 2nd - 18/Jun/09 with Sion

Hannah Moulton - 2nd - 29/Apr/09 with Gav

bigphil - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/09 with Neil

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Mar/09

shark - Solo - 17/Jan/09 with Mark Shea + Hungry Steve

mikeyjbs - Lead dog - Jan/09 with adam spong, tony bowles, farrow, lachie, davina budd

Was really pleased to get this onsight!
alicia - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/08 with Drew

found gear which sweetened failiure
jimsrankin - Lead dnf - Oct/08 with Adrian

Al Franks - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/08 with Claire

cy - 2nd dog - 27/Sep/08 with Al

Alasdair88 - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/08 with Claire

ended up footless on painful handjams, not enough will to continue, will be back for round two soon
Mr Wild - Lead dnf - 14/Sep/08 with Simon Brown

fizzy_elephant - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/08 with Nick Fletcher

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/08

Hard work
roberto18 - Lead - 24/May/08 with Dad (Mike Bridges)

Hidden - Lead rpt - 07/May/08

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Apr/08

Got to the top but cheated my way up a lot of it, either by going off the the side or pulling up on gear. Retrieving nuts that were thoroughly jammed along with one that fred was hiding inside the cliff. Not enjoyable at all in that wind.
wwykeham - 2nd dnf - 01/Mar/08 with Fred Lyon

tumbling wizard - Lead - 01/Mar/08

Rested on gear about half height before cracking the end sequence.
SecretSquirrel - Lead - 17/Feb/08 with Nick Smith

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 17/Feb/08

third man up after Nick Smith
adam carless - TR O/S - 17/Feb/08 with SecretSquirrel

MikeDowsett - 2nd - 2008 with Paul Tretheway

nacnud - 2nd - 04/Nov/07

sadams - Lead O/S - 03/Nov/07 with Catherine Adams

Anna Horrox - 2nd - 05/May/07 with Clive Greenwood

clive-greenwood - Lead O/S - 05/May/07 with Anna

AJ007 - Lead dnf - 28/Apr/07

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/07 with AJ

tatz45 - Lead β - 18/Apr/07 with Mark Boden

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - Apr/07

jonka - Lead - 2007

Nicos - Lead O/S - 04/Nov/06 with rich howels

Brown - 2nd O/S - Nov/06 with Henry

Hidden - Solo - 30/Sep/06

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/Aug/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/06

Paz - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/06 with CC2

Boy - 2006

dan gibson - 2006

oldmanrivers - Solo - 2006

Hidden - Lead dog - 2006

Rik Dawes - Lead O/S - 2006

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/May/05

LankyPaddy - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/04

Hidden - 2004

cem - Lead rpt - 06/Sep/03 with Pete Atkinson

Hidden - Solo - 13/Oct/02

Carl Smethurst - 2nd - 06/Oct/02 with Dave Pemberton, Ian Pickles

1 rest
cem - Lead dog - 17/Aug/02 with Mark Lim

lithos - 2nd - Aug/02 with Andy Birtwistle

Hidden - 2nd - Apr/02

Luke Gilbert - 2002

Carl Smethurst - 2nd - 02/Sep/01 with Ian Pickles

Cassidy - 2001

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Oct/00

tuftynick - Solo - 2000

John Hubbard, Dick Tong and Richard Sanderson followed I think
uphillnow - Lead - 09/Nov/99

Jon Read - Lead O/S - Aug/99

backed off!
Paul-Michael - Lead dnf - 28/Sep/98 with David Jupp

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Feb/98

ChrisJD - 2nd - 25/Oct/97 with rc

Hidden - 1997

ian caton - Lead O/S - 1997 with Matt

rurp - 1996

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/95 with Simon Coles

Hidden - Lead - 01/Jun/95

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/95

Hidden - Lead - 1995

cragspud - 2nd β - 1995

Hidden - Lead - 05/Sep/92

NickJH - Lead O/S - Sep/92

WB - 1992

bullybones - 1992

Roget - Lead O/S - 27/Dec/91

Dave Musgrove - Solo - 27/Mar/82 with Kim Greenald, Andy Wild

Mark Kemball - Solo - 29/Mar/81

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
ashtond6, mapperley samurai, OliverIF, gavinpeach, Dave 88, PebblePusher, PanzerHanzler, blancbleu

Total votes cast 117
hard E20 of 42
E20 of 42
easy E22 of 42
hard E133 of 42
E17 of 42
easy E10 of 42
hard HVS0 of 42
HVS0 of 42
easy HVS0 of 42
hard 5c0 of 39
5c0 of 39
easy 5c7 of 39
hard 5b25 of 39
5b7 of 39
easy 5b0 of 39
hard 5a0 of 39
5a0 of 39
easy 5a0 of 39
3 Stars4 of 36
2 Stars24 of 36
1 Star7 of 36
0 Stars1 of 36
Bag of .....0 of 36
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Style of ascent
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP