Rockfax Description
A oddly-named route up the wide crack in the slabby angle. Awkward but large gear, big feet and determination all help. © Rockfax

FA. Jack Macleod 1934

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Eastern Grit Jamming, Northern Grit 100 VD - VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+.

BnB 14/Oct -
Hidden 10/Oct TR
rajeshwarbisht 26/Sep Lead O/S
with Flavio
FlavioL1989 26/Sep Solo O/S
Felix la shat 23/Sep Lead β
libby.southgate 20/Sep Lead
jonhowson 14/Jul 2nd O/S

A fantastic battle. Face climbed the top half with the crack as an 'arete'. Much easier than thrutching. Impressive leader fall from Maia, good lead. Excellent route.

with Maia
Hidden 14/Jul Lead dog
Peakpdr 04/Jul -
benlatham07 04/Jul Lead dog
Chris Oldfield 26/Jun Lead dog

rest at the chockstone, no gear big enough thereafter, plenty of blood!

with James Buckley
TobyA 23/Jun Lead O/S
with SimonW
Hidden 20/Jun 2nd
Hidden 20/Jun 2nd O/S
Georgie25 20/Jun Lead
LakesWinter 24/Apr 2nd
with Cake
Cake 24/Apr Lead O/S

Didn't get enough involved with the crack so it felt scary. Gear out right at the top though, if you do it that way.

with Matt
ptc1 18/Mar Lead
Sam McCarthy 12/Mar 2nd O/S
SJPowderham1 ??/2015 -
willsm11 28/Sep/14 Lead β
with Ben Talbot, Jake
birthers 21/Sep/14 2nd O/S
caroline256 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Tom B
andy.smythe 14/Sep/14 Lead
ralphio 28/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Felt a bit run out without a massive cam but once I had my foot wedged in the crack it was all pretty secure.

with Steve
Oliver Houston 27/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jul/14 2nd
morganator 17/Jul/14 Solo O/S
soph 17/Jul/14 Solo
Hidden 16/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S
pimpy 12/Jul/14 2nd
iainsanderson 11/Jul/14 2nd dog
MrBIond 07/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jul/14 -
Hidden ?/Jul/14 Solo
Nevil 19/Jun/14 2nd
with Mike
Hidden ?/Jun/14 Lead
Steeve 18/May/14 2nd rpt

so much easier than last time. no blood!

Hidden 29/Apr/14 2nd rpt
jimbonfire 21/Apr/14 -
Andy Peak 1 10/Apr/14 Solo O/S

like a easy version of elder crack, felt like i was being suked up the crack, loved it.

alooker 09/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2014 Solo O/S
Jack Loftus 23/Dec/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 22/Dec/13 Lead O/S
climbEdclimb 30/Nov/13 2nd O/S
with Mike Stuart
Hidden 30/Nov/13 Lead O/S
ad111 30/Nov/13 2nd
ianjfsutcliffe 07/Nov/13 TR rpt
DavidPC 09/Oct/13 Solo
Tithe Technique 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S
charley 06/Oct/13 2nd rpt
with JackD, Ange, Kev
Jackwd 06/Oct/13 2nd
sopaz 05/Oct/13 2nd
the power 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with deacon
will_benfold 05/Oct/13 2nd O/S
with Steve Broadbent, Tim Culwick
Hidden 29/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Sep/13 2nd dog
Calum Wadsworth 28/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Ben T
Deezel65 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S
cragtyke 22/Sep/13 2nd
with Ross
Hidden 08/Sep/13 2nd
davidalcock 08/Sep/13 2nd
Hidden 08/Sep/13 Lead O/S
mapperley samurai 08/Sep/13 Lead

Good job I borrowed the big cam before I set off. It was the only bit of gear that fit the crack so had to walk it up.

with David Alcock, Ben Moss
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/Sep/13 Solo
oodie72 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Ian MK 31/Aug/13 2nd
with oodie72
ianstevens 30/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Brown 15/Aug/13 Solo
with Solo
aking12 12/Aug/13 Lead O/S
RosieLynch 12/Aug/13 2nd O/S
DavidPC 10/Aug/13 TR rpt
Hidden 10/Aug/13 2nd
Hidden 09/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Guy Wilson 09/Aug/13 -
with Plum
Jstevens ?/Aug/13 2nd dog
with Ian Stevens
Hidden 24/Jul/13 Lead
jamie ward 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Robbie
althesin 20/Jul/13 2nd
Reds 20/Jul/13 2nd rpt
schristophersmith 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jul/13 2nd rpt
drolex 09/Jul/13 Lead dnf

Not big enough gear...

ian storey 09/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with g rush
DavidPC 08/Jul/13 Lead O/S
DeanWilsonn 08/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Dave
Hidden 07/Jul/13 2nd dog
treg 07/Jul/13 2nd

Hard! Seconded after backing down off lead.

with Patrick
Hardcore Pat 07/Jul/13 Lead β

Not big enough gear.

with Matt Tregellas
ipblake 06/Jul/13 Lead dnf

No big gear so dipped out - probably sensible! Will be back with big hexes...

with simmo, jan
monkeyman79 05/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with David Ashby
mikealexpayne 07/Jun/13 Lead
Mr Messy 01/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Julie
Julie 01/Jun/13 2nd
with Matt
Sam Simpson 30/May/13 Lead O/S
jimmysdead 26/May/13 Lead O/S

Harder than it looks.

with Ade Halliwell
jogh 25/May/13 Lead O/S
with Pete
palmer.jody 25/May/13 TR dog
pete_naylor 25/May/13 2nd O/S
with James
bclifton ??/2013 Lead
Hidden ??/2013 -
AlanPedrick ??/2013 -
adrianscott 16/Nov/12 2nd
with Tom horton
stevetheleg 10/Nov/12 Lead O/S
with Sam Cooke
Sam Cooke 10/Nov/12 2nd

A disheartening DNF for my lead let Steve pluck this one - still struggled on second, mind.

marcduhig 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Found this hard. Size 6 cam OR bigger needed.

with Wayne, Bob
waynem1985 29/Sep/12 2nd
with Marc
Mattyk 05/Aug/12 Lead O/S

felt quite tough for the grade.pretty goey! esp without much big gear

angie 25/Jul/12 TR
Hidden 07/Jul/12 2nd rpt
mjeffery 26/Jun/12 2nd O/S
RichyBOYY 17/Jun/12 Lead
Stuart William 05/Jun/12 Lead dog

Stacked torque nuts or hexes work well as a (very welcome) alternative to large cams towards the top.

with Matt Reynolds
Goose4 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Good moves!!

althesin 27/May/12 Lead O/S

bit of an offwidth number, big cams were very reassuring

with Reds
Reds 27/May/12 2nd rpt
Cat G 27/May/12 Lead O/S

Very glad of Si's massive cam! Fairly thrutchy but kind of pleasant...

with Simon Fowler
alexjz 26/May/12 Lead RP

Long runout! could have done with big cams, but really enjoyed it. Layback most of the way, then got my legs in and amongst the crack to let the thrutch fest begin. I was wearing shorts and destroyed my legs. Good times

franhammond92 24/May/12 2nd
benkelsey 24/May/12 Lead O/S

thrutchy. also, don't throw your shoes off the top. they will go in a big hole and it will take ages trying to get them out with a nutkey.. :/

with Fran Hammond
GermanAlex 19/May/12 Lead dog

didn't like it, green and slimy. to my great shame I rested on gear as the rope somehow got stuck; couldn't get my knee out of the darn crack (also very cold & a little damp). excuses, excuses... size 4 DMM cams are barely big enough, probably wouldn't have held a fall. threading the chockstone leaves you breathless.

with Dan, Robby
Hidden 19/May/12 2nd dog
Hidden 16/May/12 Solo dnf
timmyhobby 06/May/12 Lead O/S
Nick1812P 15/Feb/12 2nd O/S
with Pete
pete1993 15/Feb/12 Lead O/S
with Nick
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
admackie ??/2012 -
Hidden 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Nov/11 2nd O/S
WillDoyle 02/Oct/11 Lead dog

First fall on lead.

charley 03/Sep/11 2nd O/S
with Steve C, Clare
JaseSSDD 21/Aug/11 2nd
with Ian Barker
AlexxelA 09/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Cari
johnself1603 30/Jul/11 -
JamieSparkes 04/Jul/11 Lead β
with Rachel
Oceanic 04/Jun/11 -
chapmand 04/Jun/11 Lead
tompilgrem 03/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Dad
bobpilgrem 03/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Bob/Tom
ben_250 18/May/11 Lead O/S
with Tom
Tamati ?/May/11 2nd O/S
Jonathan Hall 26/Apr/11 Lead
with Will Ward
chris smith 23/Apr/11 Lead
Tom Redmond 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S

knee got properly jammed couple a move from the top, had to put a sling round a very wobbly chockstone, thank god it held. it then fell out when my second touched it, scary stuff :/

with tom ivory
chris smith 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
joscott 22/Apr/11 2nd
ianjfsutcliffe 21/Apr/11 Lead O/S
samfayers 21/Apr/11 TR O/S
with sars, sutty
Sars99 21/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/11 Lead
simon kimber 16/Apr/11 Solo β

Got scared near the top trying to layback it and reversed all the way down. Thrutching felt a lot more secure!

05bwardl 15/Apr/11 TR O/S
dj_brigham05 10/Apr/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 28/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Ollie B 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S

as part of 10 crags 20 routes

with M.Sharpe
Sgt. Vest 21/Mar/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 12/Mar/11 Solo O/S
Different Steve 12/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with Carol Fowles, Steve Gray
keith leonard ??/2011 -
keith leonard ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
DeanD ??/2011 -
DeanD ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
liamoloughlin 24/Oct/10 2nd
Hidden 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S
mbambi 07/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Managed to get my knee stuck in the crack- took me 10 minuites to work it out!

with chris
Guy Wilson 02/Oct/10 -
with Gavin Moy
Hidden 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
tri-nitro-toulumne 06/Sep/10 Lead dog
with Rich Guest
Hidden 06/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hjort 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Ignored guidebook advice regarding trousers. Hemorrhaged knee skin. Quite painful.

with Jake Roberts, Emlyn Roberts
emlynroberts 04/Sep/10 2nd

Toby lead it in shorts, what a grit rash!

with Jacob Roberts, Toby Vye
jacobroberts 04/Sep/10 2nd
Hidden 02/Sep/10 Lead
Climber1806 31/Aug/10 Lead O/S
220bpm 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Harder than it looks but Camalot 4 to the rescue. Forgot sling for upper chockstone....scary top out!

with Dave
Hidden 08/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Mr. K 07/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/10 2nd
Peter Holder 28/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Jim Malo 24/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Barry
fatbuoybazza 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S

In climbing shoes, waders might have been more appropriate..

with jim
Alistair Corbett 09/Jul/10 2nd
James Oswald 09/Jul/10 Lead dog

Felt very committing at the top. Took two falls on the large stone jammed in the crack. Really not that easy

JamieSparkes 03/Jul/10 Lead dnf

fell back down into the footjam, couldn't commit after that so backed off

squidgebob 03/Jul/10 Lead dnf
with jamie
SteWatkins ?/Jul/10 -
Hidden 30/Jun/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 27/Jun/10 2nd dog
John Lewis 27/Jun/10 Lead dnf
with Maureen
mark20 24/Jun/10 2nd O/S
tiga271 24/Jun/10 Lead

Wish I hadn't worn shorts - ouch !

with mark20
willson 17/Jun/10 2nd
with chris
Martin Haworth 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Tony
Tony Holdsworth 05/Jun/10 2nd rpt

Martina first lead after injury

with Martin Haworth
tinyali 02/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Rosie Hadfield
disturbed_one51 31/May/10 Lead
Hidden 23/May/10 2nd rpt
rp318m 22/May/10 Lead
Laurence Everitt 22/May/10 Lead O/S
AndyFrank 22/May/10 Lead O/S
with Mike Burton
Phil West 22/May/10 2nd dog

Dragged kicking and screaming lol

with Shaun Walby
shaun walby 22/May/10 Lead O/S
with Phil West
gethin_allen 18/May/10 Lead

lost a lot of skin on my elbow when the chock-stone I was pulling on spun around in my hand. Harder than it looks.

with Pete V
Steve Waters, Mynydd 17/May/10 Lead

Good training for Goliath's Groove! At one move half way up if couldn't free my left foot from the crack. A loose chock stone provides welcome protection for the upper section.

mtempest 17/May/10 2nd
with Steve Waters, Mynydd
ffdalton 16/May/10 2nd O/S
peaches69 25/Apr/10 2nd O/S

funky struggle up the off width. size 4 camelot/5 tech friend will be usefull when doing this route

with syd
mike lawrence? 13/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with FatRob
Hidden 13/Apr/10 -
will randall ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with sid
migs493 31/Jan/10 Lead dog

Absolutely freezing - probably around 0 in shade with hoar frost on top of edge. Took a fall while trying to reverse. Well held by Kev.

with KP
alancash100 ??/2010 2nd
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
DeanD ??/2010 -
Steeve ?/Nov/09 -
dannyboy83 19/Oct/09 Solo O/S
with Dad
Hidden 21/Sep/09 2nd
Maxim2023 18/Sep/09 Lead rpt
with Mark Bennett
hafiem 18/Sep/09 2nd O/S

quite green, a bit of a struggle to be fair!!

with maxwell
Dan Lane 12/Sep/09 Lead dnf

NEED AT LEAST SIZE 5 CAM, i got to the break, 4 feet above a really badly undercammed cam, no gear, so got a rope lower to me.

Hidden ?/Sep/09 -
Hidden 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S
chrisallan 18/Aug/09 Lead dog
niallk 15/Aug/09 2nd
with Baldric
Pilch 07/Aug/09 Lead rpt
with Graham and Jonathon
jkarran 02/Aug/09 Lead

Looks trivial but looks can be deceptive. No idea how I didn't bin it off this!

with Aly
abreen 15/Jul/09 2nd O/S
with Dominic Breen
Dave Foster 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Alex
Lumbering Oaf 05/Jul/09 2nd

Thuggish and awkward if you've no big gear!

with Simon Caldrick
Dave Rumney 27/Jun/09 Lead

Friend 4 only big enough to protect low down. Is 4c for thrutching? Definitely harder for bridging, laybacking and 2 handed jamming!

with Sean Roberts
Hidden 21/Jun/09 2nd dog
popebenedictus 11/May/09 Lead O/S
with Edd Rab
edd rab 11/May/09 2nd O/S
Rob Davies 09/May/09 2nd
with Phil Ashton
Hidden 25/Apr/09 Lead O/S
colin milton 24/Apr/09 2nd
with ibbo
monsteratt 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Morgan and Maxwell
Maxim2023 11/Apr/09 Lead β

my first lead. really enjoyed it

with monty attwood
swoosh 04/Apr/09 Lead
with Pat Dawson
Hidden 21/Mar/09 Solo O/S
drysori ??/2009 Lead
drysori ??/2009 Lead
drysori ??/2009 Lead
drysori ??/2009 Lead
cymjt ??/2009 -
andi taxi 10/Oct/08 TR
with jay..ravenshead
PondLife 10/Oct/08 TR
with Andi
jcurley 24/Aug/08 Lead O/S
jw231 01/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Al Benson
al99 01/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with James Whitlock
Hidden 22/Jul/08 Lead O/S
gazfellows 25/Jun/08 2nd
Harald 15/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/08 Lead O/S
tomthecoolperson 04/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Louise
Franco Cookson OLD 04/Jun/08 Solo O/S
mattyork2 12/May/08 Lead O/S
with Nina
Pete Horn 11/May/08 -
frankcp87 07/May/08 Lead dnf

Couldn't get started in the crack, but i'll be back and with more cams!

JLS 06/May/08 Lead dnf

backed off

with Jacqui
Hidden 14/Mar/08 2nd
Graeme Hammond 17/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Jools
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/08 Lead
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
mattwyles1 ??/2008 -
Nicos 18/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Somerset swede basher 19/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with John Sargeant
lithos 04/Aug/07 Lead

what a fight ! take big cams

Simon Caldwell 04/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Thrutchtastic :-)

with Carmen
BicepAndrews ?/Aug/07 TR
victim of mathematics 03/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Jim Vach 02/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Marek
Hidden ?/Jun/07 2nd
Pilch 24/May/07 Lead O/S
with Ed
EdShep 24/May/07 2nd O/S
with Pilch
Hidden 23/May/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/May/07 Lead O/S
cmsg 29/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Nice, but a tad hairy for the grade. Laybacked it happily enough, but the gear ran out fast. Had to pause for moment or two, before going for the finish. From the bottom, I was wondering what grade the middle of the slab went at. From two thirds of the way up the crack, it seemed a lot steeper.

with Luke Gannarelli
dan gibson 28/Apr/07 Solo rpt
adam carless 03/Feb/07 Lead O/S

strangely enjoyable for a route which really just a thrutch. Friend 4 is the largest cam needed really, but a 5 might be welcome at the top.

mshorter ??/2007 Lead O/S

only had small cams which dont fit in a large crack

cat22 ??/2007 -
with Mike
Wayne S ??/2007 -
Hidden 24/Sep/06 Lead β
Ian Archer 01/Sep/06 2nd O/S
with Danny Hale
Peakpdr 04/Aug/06 Lead rpt

this route is ace / it eats lge cams size 4 - 5 and a size .5 in break .. sadly we only had one lge cam at the time so had to just grit the teath and go ..bloody brilliant..tip..wear trousers..the route on the right of it (gable route i think ) is graded hvs 4c is much easier than roof route and its graded harder ..the mind boggles on this..

with phill
Joe Costello 20/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Matt
Jack Symmons ?/Jul/06 Lead
with Chris T
mikej 09/Jun/06 2nd
with Rick Naylor
PenJD 03/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Ruth Smitton
Oli 02/Jun/06 Solo O/S
with Jon/Adrian Berry/Nick Smith
Hidden 04/May/06 2nd
mol 22/Apr/06 Lead
with James Wasiak
Mutl3y 25/Feb/06 Lead dnf

Too cold to feel anything. Gear too low to be any good. Fell out of crack.

with Clog
Clog 25/Feb/06 2nd
with Mutl3y
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Reds 17/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with Henry
loonyclimber ?/Jul/05 2nd
reg_measures 21/May/05 2nd rpt
with timmy elson
Sankey ?/Jan/05 -
tommytwotone 19/Sep/04 Lead O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 07/Aug/04 Solo O/S
SteveM 28/Jun/04 Lead
with Regina, Cogie
Skell ??/2004 Lead O/S
petekeron ??/2004 Lead O/S
Neil Curtis 03/Aug/03 2nd
with Alan Barnes
cem 03/Aug/03 Lead O/S
with Liam Mark
samwelli 22/Jun/03 2nd β
with Reuben Brown
Hidden 14/Jun/03 Solo O/S
Hidden 27/Mar/03 2nd
Jon Greengrass ??/2003 -
Peakpdr ??/2003 -
Hidden 06/Oct/02 Solo O/S
five ?/Sep/02 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Apr/02 Lead dog
reg_measures 12/Mar/02 2nd
with peter (slim)
reg_measures 05/Mar/02 Lead O/S
with hugh thomas
Siderunner 28/Jul/01 Lead O/S

Bongo friend essential!

with Steve G
Hidden ??/2001 -
Hidden 21/Oct/00 Lead O/S
DerwentDiluted 16/Sep/00 Lead
with Laurie Smith
FrankW 22/Jul/00 Lead O/S
with Andy R
Monk ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/99 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/99 2nd
clive-greenwood 17/Sep/98 2nd
stokienomad 08/Aug/98 Lead
Hidden 26/Jul/98 Lead dnf
DavidEvans 21/Sep/97 2nd O/S
with Chris Gilligan, adam ellwood
Hidden 22/Aug/97 Lead O/S
martroberts 20/Jul/97 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/97 Lead O/S
r0b 11/Mar/97 2nd
with Ian Huyton
Iain Thow 26/Aug/96 Lead
with Roger Hardon
Hidden 20/Aug/95 TR
Gordon Stainforth 07/Aug/95 2nd
with John Cutcliffe, Chris Thorp, Catriona
cragspud ??/1995 Lead
Hidden ??/1995 Solo
Hidden ?/Aug/94 -
jmr 18/Jun/94 Lead
with Shane Adams
mik1miller ??/1992 Solo
Roget 05/Jul/91 Solo O/S
NickJH ?/Jul/90 TR
goi.ashmore 23/Apr/88 Solo O/S
babymoac 08/Aug/87 Lead
with Chris B
Hidden ??/1986 2nd
John Marsland 04/Nov/84 Lead
John Marsland 12/Nov/83 2nd
with Andy Tickle
Rob Davies 24/May/80 Lead

No big cams in those days

with Graham Wilson
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Solo
Mark Kemball 08/Dec/79 Solo
tapley 22/Sep/79 Lead
with Alison Tapley
Andy Say 04/Aug/79 Solo
mark-abz 24/Jul/79 Lead
with Heidi
Hidden 13/May/79 Lead
Andy Fielding ??/1979 Lead
Dave Musgrove 26/Jun/77 -
Nigel Bond 28/Apr/77 Solo
RichardMc 12/Aug/75 Lead
with Ken Salter, Betty Seifert
Hidden 17/Aug/74 2nd
mikej 01/Aug/71 Solo
with E
mikej 23/Apr/67 Solo
with Nigel Sumner
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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High HVS
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Votes cast 77
High 5a
Mid 5a
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High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
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Votes cast 70
Votes cast 61
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set