Rockfax Description
A superb and committing arete with the crux, and some rather battered protection close to the top. Often done above pads at a scary f6A+. © Rockfax

FA. John Allen 1975

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes, Ultimate E4 ticklist.

Hidden 04/Oct Solo β
Matt Cooke 04/Oct Solo RP
Louishmouis 06/Sep Lead
with finn
CharlieMack 04/Jun TR RP

Harder than I expected. Quite a long move in the middle for my short arms.

with Shunt
Jackwd 10/May TR dnf

Too sweaty today!

NDD 24/Apr Solo
Nick1812P 17/Apr Solo O/S

above pad.

Ollie B 04/Jan Solo O/S
Stefan_Morris 02/Nov/14 Solo O/S
Ed morris 02/Nov/14 Solo O/S
with harry, stefan
Gaz of Bath 01/Nov/14 Solo G/U

Ground up, 2nd attempt

Hidden 01/Nov/14 Solo
al123 22/Sep/14 Solo
Jay.Carr 12/Jun/14 Solo
WillDoyle 16/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Didn't get any gear.

Hidden 11/Apr/14 Solo β
Callum_Johnson 22/Feb/14 Solo β

Ground up, somewhere between a flash and an onsight

with Sam, Dayni_
samwillo 22/Feb/14 Solo


Jay C 22/Feb/14 Solo dnf

Couldn't commit to last few moves. Will be back

with Sam W
Chris_barr 01/Dec/13 Solo β
with Gus, Guy
Gus 01/Dec/13 Solo
with chris barr
GuyVG 01/Dec/13 Solo

never been able to get the crimp, today I did. Saw John Allen in the evening, chuffed.

with crew
Matthew Ferrier 30/Nov/13 Solo O/S

Took rack and rope optimistically but couldn't find any gear that wasn't terrible. Found the lower crux pretty reachy 6a and the top necky 5c. One pad over the pointy rock.

liamoloughlin 16/Nov/13 Solo RP
James Oakes 06/Oct/13 Solo β

2 big pads, 3 small. Easy for 5c.

with Kyle Wilson, Gareth Hooson
Andy Moles 30/Sep/13 Solo RP
with -
Hidden 20/Sep/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/13 TR
Hidden 18/Jul/13 Lead RP
BRoe 30/May/13 Solo O/S

Very damp, very sketchy.

with Heather O, whitehouse_rhys
mark20 02/Mar/13 Sent β
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/Mar/13 Solo
w.pettet-smith ?/Feb/13 -

with a few pals and mats. steady and fairly safe. proper solo to follow

samt ??/2013 -
ejected ??/2013 -
Sam Lawson ??/2013 -
willsm11 30/Dec/12 Solo G/U

ground up with 2 pads and a spotter

with Twisty
Hidden 15/Nov/12 Solo β
stevetheleg 10/Nov/12 TR O/S
with Jay Conlon
Jay C 10/Nov/12 TR

Will lead it next time

with Steve H, Jack N, Sam Cooke
nathanlee 08/Nov/12 Solo

etch a sketch

BenNorman 08/Nov/12 Solo

Ground Up, 5th attempt. Got the slot as an undercut and committed to the sloper, real scary. Hard for E4 surely?

Ram MkiV 02/Apr/12 Solo rpt
with Nathan
Ethan 12/Mar/12 Solo
with Ted, Bailes, Ed, Kitty
kingholmesy ??/2012 Solo O/S

Wet top-out added extra excitement.

stefie c 25/Apr/11 TR
powellj69 25/Apr/11 TR RP
Hidden 23/Apr/11 TR
Hidden 23/Apr/11 TR
markalmack 16/Apr/11 Solo β
with james marjot
simon kimber 16/Apr/11 Solo O/S

lovely positive climbing, soft for the grade

jimmyrua 10/Apr/11 Solo β

fantastic climbing.

with Glaswegian folk
Chris J Houston 10/Apr/11 Solo β
with The Dumby Team
dj_brigham05 10/Apr/11 Solo β
Hidden 10/Apr/11 Solo O/S
ali_robb ?/Apr/11 Solo β
jacobjacob 20/Mar/11 Solo O/S
cliffrad 13/Mar/11 Solo O/S
Mike Goldthorp 04/Mar/11 Solo O/S

Lovely day on my own at burbage with a couple of pads. A great route to finish off a great week! Once sussed the moves were steady 5c, but easily misread. Probably protectable in that slot, but at the cost of the best hold. Nosferatu next.

Gambit 29/Jan/11 Solo RP

IMO the slot refered to below has always been there, could not get anything to fit myself so don't count on it!

with Rob
Milne 28/Jan/11 TR RP

2nd go. solo soon.

harvie 14/Nov/10 Solo
J.Wells 17/Oct/10 Solo O/S
with Luke Jones
pipof747 08/Oct/10 Solo O/S
daniel hobbs 13/Sep/10 Lead RP

4 attempt on top rope then lead.

dominic lee 09/Sep/10 Solo rpt
MorganPreece 01/Sep/10 TR rpt

Really nice moves when ur not craping ur self, when i did it 2years ago there wasunt a bomber DMM 4CU cam placement at half hight, looks very chiped out, just wondering if anyone else had seen it????

with Jessy and Solo
Climber1806 31/Aug/10 TR RP
FlorianCastagne 18/Aug/10 Lead RP

What a line! Just one gear

Hidden 08/Aug/10 Lead dnf
Pippa 08/Aug/10 2nd
with Jon
Jethro ?/Aug/10 Lead
Jonathan Hall 27/Jul/10 TR

Got it clean after some work, it did feel like a v long stretch for me though.

7om 30/Jun/10 Lead RP

with pads. lovely moves at the top

Hidden ?/Apr/10 TR β
bigie bob 05/Mar/10 Solo O/S
C coldwell-storry 01/Mar/10 Solo O/S
with rob lay
going going gone 02/Feb/10 Lead RP

the most gripped i've been on a trad climb so far. super happy afterwards

St0neMonkey 10/Jan/10 Solo RP
nathanmanc 29/Oct/09 Solo RP
frost 27/Sep/09 Solo O/S
with D Garry
akhughes 24/Sep/09 Solo O/S

awesome route. Basic 5c, but serious climbing.

mgeek 23/Sep/09 Solo β
with adam hughes
sparkass 12/Sep/09 Lead β
with Rob Lovatt
Boy ?/Sep/09 -
with Nige Kershaw
MorganPreece 11/Apr/09 Solo
with Max and Monty
St0neMonkey ??/2009 Solo rpt
stephenhartley ??/2009 2nd
willackers 07/Dec/08 Solo β
with Dan Walker, Chris Houston
Somerset swede basher 07/Sep/08 Solo O/S
MYSSAK 24/May/08 Solo rpt
maybe_si 10/May/08 TR O/S
jamesturnbull ?/Apr/08 Lead
drysori 13/Feb/08 Solo RP

Wish I'd attempted this onsight, but the thought of the landing put me off.

MYSSAK 03/Nov/07 Solo β
lx 29/Oct/07 Solo O/S

one mat and one spotter

with neil
Mark Riley 20/Oct/07 Solo

With mats, after watching Tom, did the top differently though. Great route.

Ram MkiV 02/Oct/07 Solo O/S

had my pad over the sharp boulder. great, exciting route.

Tommy G ?/Oct/07 Solo β


Sidekick 18/Sep/07 Solo RP
Toby Dunn 01/May/07 Solo
with John
tatz45 21/Apr/07 Lead RP
with Aly Robertson
timbanton 14/Mar/07 -
Hidden 11/Mar/07 Solo β
Andrew Jennings ??/2007 Sent
Andrew Barker 24/Oct/06 Solo O/S

Awesome line, dodgy topout.

Hidden 23/Oct/06 Lead RP
alaan 24/Sep/06 Lead rpt

No mats this time :)

with Pete
alaan 18/Sep/06 Lead β

With mats (sorry).

Hidden ??/2006 -
bronsonite 13/Nov/05 Lead RP
with Nathan Lawrence
Hidden ?/Nov/05 Solo RP
joe c ook ?/Oct/05 Lead β
with A. Harrison
Dave Bond 19/Sep/05 Solo
Apharri ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
Ian Broome 12/May/05 TR
with Spence
dannyboy83 ?/Apr/05 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/05 Solo O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 Solo O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/04 Solo O/S
Chris Reid 24/Apr/04 Solo O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 01/Jun/03 Solo G/U
Ropeboy 31/May/01 Solo
middlevern ?/Mar/01 Lead β

Ground Up

tuftynick ??/2001 -
Vince Smedley 09/Oct/00 Solo β
with Anton
Hidden ?/May/00 TR O/S
Hidden 28/Apr/00 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2000 TR O/S
WuDavid ??/2000 -
kevp 17/Oct/99 Lead RP
with Tim Legge
Rich Kirby 16/May/99 Lead O/S
with Hugh Cottam/Tim Bonner
Dave Musgrove Jnr 18/Apr/99 Solo
with Mike Weeks
r0b 27/Mar/99 Solo RP
Dave Musgrove Jnr 18/Jul/98 Lead O/S
with tim russon, James Ibbertson
Hidden 08/Mar/97 Solo
marconi ??/1996 Solo RP
with Richard G, Bingham
Hidden 08/Jul/95 TR O/S
Laramadness 04/Jun/95 TR
robyn1 ??/1995 -
Davros the Psyched ??/1995 Solo O/S
mattnuttall 05/Aug/94 Solo rpt
mattnuttall 17/Jul/94 Solo rpt
ste_d 10/Jun/94 Solo O/S
mattnuttall 12/May/94 Solo O/S
Craig Barton ??/1993 Solo RP
Hidden ?/Sep/92 2nd
IanD353 ?/Apr/92 Lead O/S
mik1miller ??/1992 Solo
Hidden ??/1990 TR
Hidden ?/Sep/89 Solo O/S
Nic_Sandy ?/Apr/88 Solo

fell off crux before there was mats, rolled down hill. Got back up and did it. Really stupid coz I was on my own

Chris Craggs ??/1985 Lead
with Steve Warwick
stp 08/Mar/84 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/1984 Solo
Mark Kemball 14/May/83 Lead
with Chris Calow
Rob Davies 26/Apr/80 2nd dnf
with Martin Moran
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Will Murphy, dashed, harry_lewis, jacob shieldhouse hadley, ashleab, Hidden, hfisher, Ollie Hensman-Crook, mapperley samurai, Joe-98, theomoore, Ollie B, Hidden, Hidden, Timothy Miller, Hidden, Teappleby, Hidden, Hidden, LJC, Alex Norman, Tangerine_Kingdom, Hidden, crag_hopper_Jay, Hidden, angus, Nick Nitro, Hidden, ianjfsutcliffe, Hidden, whitehouse_rhys, Hidden, Hidden, Matt Reid, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Michael Hood, virgil, Hidden, nathan foster, alexanderjwatts, Martin Davies, BWoodward, Hidden, richiebongo, Hidden, drcorbasisgod, LankyPaddy, Hidden, Dan Lane, Ian Paterson, Hidden, colin harvey, Timo Austino, Hidden, oliverthomp, nmwr, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Skell, fennerz, danwaters, Hidden, Karl Wooffindin, Hidden, Oddjob, Hidden, Hidden, wushu
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 42
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 45
Votes cast 71
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set