Access Banned
Climbing is currently banned at this venue - it lies within a local Nature Reserve and a legally designated SSSI. It has been reported that climbers have recently cleared vegetation, placed lower off bolts and the clearance of mature trees to re-develop the site, without consultation or permission from the either land owners (local authority) or the Wildlife Trust, all potentially illegal activities within an SSSI, have led to them to take this action.
30m.
Located on 'Main Wall West' and flanked by the chimneys of Bifid (E1) to the left and The Fugitive (VS) to the right, this route takes the prominent crack and overhangs in the obvious wall. Start by following holds on the wall to the right of the crack before stepping left and then following the crack direct to the overhang. A long traverse left gains another obvious crack which is climbed via a couple of difficult moves to a nice ledge and a welcome break. The overhang you are now faced with to your right is climbed utilizing some reasonable holds (but get your feet sorted) before finishing off to the right and belay.
John Kerry & Clive Horsfield 1970.
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Route of Interest
Cerebellum
Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Morlais Quarries)