Rockfax Description
III, 400m, 4 - 5 hours. A nice line with some fun climbing when conditions are good. Follow the Escarra Gully for 20m and then branch off right, hugging the rock buttress.
1) Climb a narrow gully (hopefully ice but usually mixed) for one pitch to where it widens.
2) Follow the wide icy wall above for two pitches (70 degrees initially, kicking up to 80 degrees later on).
3) A final section of steep ice leads to easier-angled ground. Follow this as the gully bends round to the left.
4) Continue up 45 degree mixed terrain to a col at the summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Obvious wide ice filled gully with narrow sometimes dry entrance near to the West Ridge (normal descent route). Crux pitches of 80° ice.
G Bettembourg and J Charlet (Winter J Charlet and D Pugnat 1 March 1980) 15/Jun/1972.
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Grade: TD- 4 ***
(Mont Dolent)