Rockfax Description
The slanting V-shaped groove gives a well-protected battle that is a complete nightmare if at all greasy, and it nearly always is. © Rockfax

FA. Gerry Rogan early 1960s 1962

Ticklists: Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+.

griffithpatrick 14/Oct Lead G/U

Was feeling well good reaching up for the ledge then it all went pair shaped. Fell pretty much to the bottom so started again from there. Bit of a dingy climb but still fun.

with Iago Thomas
Hidden 03/Aug Lead O/S
Budge 26/Jun 2nd dog
with Ade
Hidden 16/Jun 2nd dog
jonhowson 16/Jun Lead dog
with Maia
JamieSparkes 11/Jun Lead O/S

Agree with below, the crux sneaks up on you just when you think it's going well!

JasonK 17/May -
with Dan Shacklock
cragsman9000 17/May Lead dog
with Neil
bob_cbr 17/May 2nd dog

Most of the time I was pulling on gear and dean was taking in the rope one inch at a time.

Hidden 23/Apr Lead O/S
jonhowson 18/Apr Lead dog

Fell grabbing the mantleshelf ledge as I was pumped and it was covered in owl pellets/shit. Brushed some of said pellets/shit down onto belayer who was not best pleased for some reason. Then went for it and desperately mantled into yet more pellets/shit. I was kind enough to leave some behind for my second to enjoy. Still 2 stars though, amazing route and gear aplenty. Recommend it to a friend and when they've cleaned the owl detritus from it - have a go yourself.

with Chris
Tubs 26/Jul/14 Lead

The crux hit me just as I was wondering what all the fuss was about.

with Simon P
si_pro_83 26/Jul/14 2nd
with Tubs
RKirke 22/Jul/14 Lead O/S
lena.drapella 22/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Benjamin Corbey
Hidden 06/Jul/14 Lead dog
KamilJ ??/2014 2nd dnf
Calum Wadsworth 28/Sep/13 Lead O/S

I agree with Rockfax about the grade E1 5c ... tough

with Ben T
mapperley samurai 17/Jul/13 Lead O/S

My first E1 lead so it will always have a special place. Feels technical and strenuous at the same time. Crux is not as expected.

davidalcock 17/Jul/13 2nd

Took a couple of fifteen footers trying to get onto the desperate ledge. Pulled ropes and Kevin led - great effort. Lovely little route - get it while it's dry. P.s. if this is hvs 5b then Congo Corner is vs 5a!

MPSBunny 14/Jul/13 Lead dnf

First proper fall and first E attempt. Placed my yellow cam just before the mantel shelf, went for the ledge then found myself hanging by my rope half way down the climb, probably took 2m in total. Tried it again just couldn't get the move so left it to John.

Brannock 14/Jul/13 Lead

More like E1.

Dom Cordner 13/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Sam Wimpenny
treg 07/Jul/13 2nd dog
with Patrick
Hardcore Pat 07/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Definitely E1, possibly 5C. No pushover.

with Matt Tregellas
greenclimb 08/Jun/13 Lead dog
Hidden 04/Jun/13 2nd
bclifton ??/2013 Lead
samt ??/2013 -
SamWimpenny ??/2013 Lead

Dom Cordiner

WillDoyle 15/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with Mike
Milnes 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Haydn Jones 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S

soaking, but just added to the fun of it 2 star route!

with pep
sopaz 26/May/12 2nd
WillDoyle 01/Sep/11 2nd
Graeme Hammond 28/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Excellent, if you find it in condition do it!! probably closer to the E1 5c ** in the latest Rockfax guide.

markalmack 16/Apr/11 2nd β
with james marjot
geddicakes 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Fraser
psronan 27/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/10 2nd
ed woods 05/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Ben
Hidden 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
dan gibson 17/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Shaun
Jonathan Hall 31/May/10 Lead dog

Took one drop trying to get established on the mantel. Thought id best try the route as it was actually dry and cleanish for a change.

Hidden 28/Apr/10 Lead
TonyF ??/2010 Lead
Hidden ??/2010 2nd dog
nickcanute ??/2010 Lead O/S
nadeem 11/Aug/09 Lead dnf

The crack was FULL of slugs.

with Tom Foote
Hidden 02/Jul/09 2nd
dannyboy83 07/Oct/07 2nd O/S
with Dad
Apharri ?/May/07 Lead O/S
with Andre Hedger
Rob Davies ?/Apr/07 Lead dog

Some frantic cleaning of sand off ledge was needed

with Phil Ashton
Martin Haworth ?/May/06 Lead O/S
with Richard
cem 03/Aug/03 2nd
with Liam Mark
Dave Bond 09/Apr/03 Lead O/S
with Rich Hatton
Hidden ?/Apr/02 Lead dog
clive-greenwood 16/Sep/98 Lead O/S
with HUMC
Hidden ??/1998 Lead dog
Roget 10/Aug/97 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden 03/Sep/94 Lead O/S
IanD353 ?/Apr/93 Lead O/S
NickJH ?/Jul/90 2nd
with I Smith
BRUCESTRAC ??/1988 -
with Chris Cracknell,Various
John Marsland 29/Apr/84 Lead
with Dave Cousins
Andy Say 12/Jun/83 Lead
Rob Davies 24/Jun/81 2nd

Blew my arms quickly, so Tony finished it

with Tony Welsh
mark-abz 07/Apr/80 TR
with Mick D
Hidden ?/May/79 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/79 Solo O/S
Hidden 23/Sep/78 2nd
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Benn A, PanzerHanzler, Hidden, Hidden
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 28
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 26
Votes cast 23
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set