Rockfax Description
The steep arete is technical as far as a band of crusty rock. Step right and climb the difficult slanting groove, and the headwall. Holds were chipped off after the first ascent but it is still climbable at the same grade. Some ancient bolts provide much-needed protection. © Rockfax
FA. Johnny Dawes 09/Jul/1985.
Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Peak Rock/16/Eighties Gritstone :The Shape of Things to Come , Consumed , 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , crimperE6 , Dawes’ finest grit routes , The Festival Of Shite , Best Before 2025
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Tom Randall - Lattice Training | 2 Sep, 2006 |
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βeta: Possibly one of the finest routes at Millstone. Oustanding climbing and situation - it will bring a smile to your face! IMO the crux is in the upper groove. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Possibly one of the finest routes at Millstone. Oustanding climbing and situation - it will bring a smile to your face! IMO the crux is in the upper groove. |
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Graham Hoey | 12 May, 2003 |
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βeta: I would think that more holds were improved than destroyed, although some of the chipped holds pre-dated Johnny's ascent by years. A 'two foot' sling placed on the old bolt head on the left-hand side of the arete up and left of the crucial Rock 7 can be clipped en-route and offers some (body weight?) psychological back-up protection. The bolts on the upper wall seem fine for the force of a likely fall, being thick in diameter and appear not to be badly corroded. The top one needs a wire over it. Has been repeated without pre-placing the Rock 7, although my ascent wasn't on-sight. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I would think that more holds were improved than destroyed, although some of the chipped holds pre-dated Johnny's ascent by years. A 'two foot' sling placed on the old bolt head on the left-hand side of the arete up and left of the crucial Rock 7 can be clipped en-route and offers some (body weight?) psychological back-up protection. The bolts on the upper wall seem fine for the force of a likely fall, being thick in diameter and appear not to be badly corroded. The top one needs a wire over it. Has been repeated without pre-placing the Rock 7, although my ascent wasn't on-sight. |
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Grade: E6 6b ***
(Burbage South Edge)