Rockfax Description
Pumpy climbing up the crack cleaving the wall. Where it thins, go direct, runners and holds keep appearing. Escaping out left before the final section is more like a stiff HVS. From the ledge select a way on/off. © Rockfax

FAA. Harold Drasdo 1957

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Eastern Grit Jamming, Tom Randall's Classic Hand cracks, 50 cracks to Squamish, Get out on Rock, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes, Millstone * HVS In a day, Tick List for 2015/2016, WideBoyz Crack School, Ultimate E1 ticklist.

Hidden 19/Oct Lead O/S
aljones91 18/Oct 2nd dog

found this tough, pumpy and very wet today!! epic lead from Andy!!!

Matt77 17/Oct Lead rpt

Did it clean but took the cop-out HVS finish.

with Dan Parker, Alex Horton, Tom Riddelsdell
TomRiddelsdell 17/Oct 2nd rpt
Ciderslider 16/Oct Lead dog

Absolutely sieged this !!!!!

with charley
charley 16/Oct 2nd rpt

HVS version

with Mark
Lukem6 11/Oct 2nd rpt
with Derrick
Hidden 10/Oct Lead rpt
charlielow 03/Oct 2nd dog

Rested twice, really enjoyable route! I found the top E1 part easier than the bottom half!

Jack93 03/Oct Lead RP

Finally managed to do the direct finish

quickdrawmcraw 01/Oct Lead dog
with steve j
ActionSte 01/Oct -
Stickle Tarn 27/Sep Lead dog

Climbed really well until the upper section which is really thin hands and really difficult. Rested.

pulseroom 17/Sep 2nd
FlavioL1989 13/Sep Lead O/S
rajeshwarbisht 13/Sep 2nd dog
with Flavio
MichaelGallimore 13/Sep Lead O/S
with jon lawson
ChrisBrooke 06/Sep 2nd

Cruised on second. Lovely jams, and the occasional face edge for feet made it feel quite a relaxing experience.

with Andy, Cat Freeman
Gregory 05/Sep Lead rpt
with Jon Morgan
codenamel 24/Aug Lead O/S

Walked past this on my way down from doing a VS and it looked like fun so I gave it a good blast. I think it's a brilliant little jammy crack. In my head it felt like HVS / E1.

with Jodie P
Mowglee 20/Aug Lead O/S

Tough - not been this pumped in a while! Managed to recover a little before the top crack.

with Sarah L, Ian
Ian Hylands 20/Aug 2nd

Tough! Got up to the same place as last time quite efficiently, but top bit of crack gets very thin on footholds! Some decent hand holds though, of varying types. Best in top crack to right to place gear quickly and sprint for the top.

with Sarah Lee, Gareth uglow
fifth 06/Aug Lead dog

Rested below the crux, did not feel too bad on the lead though. Will get it clean

gavinpeach 05/Aug 2nd rpt

Classic jamming crack.

with Scott
Julesthe1st 02/Aug Lead rpt
with Pilar
BAdhoc 30/Jul 2nd dog

Jamming is improving, but still not great. Pumpy.

KeenClimber 18/Jul 2nd O/S
with Jim Nutall
KeenClimber 14/Jul Lead
with Ian Dugdale
robolomassi 27/Jun Lead dnf

pumpy as fuck, got about 10-12m up and then fell, cam popped making for slightly more exciting fall than anticipated. need to do some pullups.

with Peachey
justtoots 25/Jun TR dog
justtoots 25/Jun TR dog
Alex the Alex 21/Jun 2nd dog

Had to rest to take out a nut... Nah only kidding - had to rest because i cant jam and this route is nails.

with Ed
Stroppy 21/Jun Lead dog

Wow, even for E1 (HVS in my guide) this felt really hard, but then speaking to others they found it easy. I guess that mean I need to learn to jam on steeper ground! Great route/line though!

TobyA 18/Jun 2nd rpt

Via the left hand finish (HVS).

with Josh
lanky 18/Jun Lead
with TobyA
Sam McCarthy 11/Jun 2nd O/S
Bernie L 11/Jun Lead O/S
Ian Hylands 04/Jun Lead dnf

No good rests so very pumped. Dropped an important can into the crack half way up and spent lots of time and effort extracting it. Tried to finish but too tired to climb well. Abseiled to retrieve gear.

with John
1poundSOCKS 26/May Lead O/S

Direct (E1) finish. Gets harder near the top, although good holds are available if you hunt around, then relents for the last couple of moves and gives you an easy top-out. Quality route.

jamesturnbull 23/May Lead
with rich howells
Wizzy 04/May Lead O/S
Lukem6 01/May Lead dog
thompsettjack ?/May 2nd O/S
charley 26/Apr 2nd O/S

HVS version....

with JackD
Rafal Malczyk 26/Apr 2nd dog
with Catherine Smith, Martin Bagshaw
Jackwd 26/Apr Lead
Matt Cooke 25/Apr Lead rpt
with Rosh
Martin Bagshaw 25/Apr Lead O/S
with Catherine Smith, Rafal Malczyk
islandlynx 19/Apr Lead G/U

2nd go. Great route. Took the left ending, I'll do the right finish next time

paul79 18/Apr 2nd dog
phil64 11/Apr 2nd

great jamming

with phil baker
Sardien 06/Apr Lead dog

Quite a battle but such amazing jamming. Struggled loads where the crack splits. Managed to take the left hand exit in the end

JPGR 05/Apr Lead
TobyA 30/Mar 2nd O/S
with SimonW
MrBIond 12/Mar Lead O/S
Albert Exley 07/Mar 2nd rpt
Albert Exley 04/Mar Lead O/S

nice route, should have done the direct finish..

with Tom, harry_lewis
john lynch 03/Mar Lead


with Maj
Felix la shat ??/2015 TR O/S
with Louis
Hidden ??/2015 Lead O/S
MarcinGobczynski ??/2015 Lead O/S
Sam Simpson 09/Nov/14 Lead dog

Crack was wet so hand slipped out halfway. took the direct finish. Brilliant but slightly bad idea using it as a warm up

Mark Grist 09/Nov/14 2nd O/S
Guy Atkinson 09/Nov/14 2nd rpt

HVS version, solid on the bottom, gets harder near the top. Proper jamming.

with Tom Butterworth
Tommy Moore 26/Oct/14 AltLd dog

Got to the laybacky bit, gave up, we both sieged it, Conor led it, bit of a top rope play.

with Olly, Ash Sayers, Conor Salisbury
RosieLynch 10/Oct/14 2nd dog
with Hannah Asquith, Andy Asquith, Ed Austin, Anthony King
Dan Vaj 02/Oct/14 2nd dog
with Khalid
khalidq 02/Oct/14 Lead dog
Andy Peak 1 29/Sep/14 Lead
with Andrew Deckon, phill ukc
greenclimb 28/Sep/14 Lead rpt
with Sarah
youwillfindjimbo 28/Sep/14 Lead dog
Hidden 28/Sep/14 2nd
OffshoreAndy 24/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Yanky Pat
Hidden 21/Sep/14 Lead
Ollie B 21/Sep/14 Lead rpt

Fell off trying to clip a wire (Bob didnt give me any slack- thats the excuse anyway). Lowered and did fine second go.

with B.Brewer
cjsheps 18/Sep/14 Lead O/S
phildawson 18/Sep/14 2nd
with Chris Shepherd
robgixer 13/Sep/14 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Sep/14 2nd dog
Hidden 30/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/14 Lead rpt
ashtond6 18/Aug/14 2nd rpt
Teappleby 16/Aug/14 Lead dog

Well this was embarrassing. I should not have fallen off this. Having done the direct finish before I thought I'd try the normal finish, which was nails, I just couldn't get to the ledge and slipped off reaching off the undercuts. First lead fall of the year and on a jamming crack! So annoyed at myself. Pulled back on and finished the direct which was fine, you can jam all the way. . .

Matt77 16/Aug/14 Lead dnf

Felt confident in my jamming after Bond Street, clearly too confident as I got half way up this and was a pumped wreck.

David Mayers 13/Aug/14 2nd
with Stuart Howard
rurp 12/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Pump fest, just made it left!

with bill farmer
Lukem6 26/Jul/14 Lead dog
DavidPC 22/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Solid E1. So pumpy!

with Jamie Lilley
Hidden 21/Jul/14 Lead O/S
pearson9596 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S
onlyfoddington 12/Jul/14 2nd dog

Found the end ok just got a bit stuck in the middle

with Michael
shaunhumphreys 07/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Left hand cop out finish due to being a pumped mess! will have to come back to get direct!

with pete
pete1993 07/Jul/14 2nd rpt

HVS finish as shaun was a pumped mess by the top

with Shaun
ashtond6 05/Jul/14 Lead rpt

really great, first time clean ever!

Mattlamb90 05/Jul/14 Lead RP

Took a lob off below the left hand flake, welcome to jamming.

with Ryan
spidey 05/Jul/14 Lead β

After Mat, great crack climbing

with mat lamb
Cyriaque 03/Jul/14 2nd dnf

Got to go back fresh

alooker 20/Jun/14 Lead O/S

On Ed's gear

with Alex, Ed
Andy Chubb 20/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Solid jams and right hand finish goes fine. Hard bit is moving up where the crack splits where you're on finger locks

with Nick Gregory
mrteale 19/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with alook
Chris M 12/Jun/14 2nd
with John B
Chris M 12/Jun/14 TR
with John B
Chris M 12/Jun/14 TR
with John B
Chris M 12/Jun/14 TR
with John B
Chris M 12/Jun/14 TR
with John B
Chris M 12/Jun/14 TR
with John B
Chris M 12/Jun/14 TR
with John B
Chris M 12/Jun/14 TR
with John B
Chris M 12/Jun/14 TR
with John B
Chris M 12/Jun/14 TR
with John B
Rachel Slater 11/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Right hand finish.

James Oswald 11/Jun/14 2nd rpt

As good as ever, Right hand finish.

Duncan Campbell 06/Jun/14 2nd
with Steve Franklin
Hidden 25/May/14 Lead rpt
Jim Slater 21/May/14 Lead rpt

So happy to get this clean (at last), ran it out at the top which is scary when you are getting seriously pumped.

Mr. K 21/May/14 2nd O/S
Rob Jarratt 18/May/14 2nd

Failed to lead (again)

with Bill McKee
henry peter jenkins 16/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/May/14 2nd β
Hidden 14/May/14 2nd rpt
j.buckley87 14/May/14 2nd dog
TRFrost 04/May/14 Lead rpt
with J. Hulbert
Andrew Barker 28/Apr/14 Lead β
with Si
john lynch 26/Apr/14 Lead rpt
with Ed Austin
Hidden 24/Apr/14 TR
Hidden 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/14 2nd
gavinpeach 16/Apr/14 Lead rpt

Cruised this tonight. Everything flowed and the jams just felt so much better. I used cupped hand jams for the niche which worked perfectly. Placed 1x number 6 nut after the niche.

with Scott
fifth 16/Apr/14 2nd dog

Tried to layback the right hand crack and foot slipped off. Will come back and do this differently on the lead

with Gav
andy.smythe 13/Apr/14 2nd
gavinpeach 13/Apr/14 Lead dog

Rest at crux niche to place bomber gear.

with Andy
Binder 13/Apr/14 Lead dog

Fell off below the fork near the top, and then rested twice. Pretty hard jamming!

with Hugh T
gazfellows 12/Apr/14 Lead

Fell near the top on the left hand finish. Hung around at the crux a little to long. The key for this one is to just go !!

with Nic
belay bunny turned bad 09/Apr/14 2nd
with Mark w, al
Hidden 09/Apr/14 2nd
dr_botnik 09/Apr/14 Lead O/S

direct finish, quite pumpy

with Darren, Andy
Hidden 09/Apr/14 Lead
treg 30/Mar/14 2nd dog

Painful jams with my vapours on. GOt pretty pumped too. Need to do more climbing.

with Ben
Hidden 16/Mar/14 2nd dog
Shauna 09/Mar/14 Lead rpt
with Jules
JHiley 09/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Direct, right hand finish for the full E0! Climbed v quickly but had tired arms topping out.

with Drew
mike mo ??/2014 -
David Sherratt ??/2014 Lead O/S
mileshill540 ??/2014 Lead
hirving 01/Dec/13 TR dnf

3/4 ways up. gave up after 3 attempts of getting to same place.

jordangolding 01/Dec/13 TR dnf
quinn sorabjee 01/Dec/13 TR dnf
Jack93 30/Nov/13 Lead dnf

Tried to go for the direct finish this time but pumped out at the crux

with Tom Parkin
gavinpeach 16/Nov/13 Lead dog

3x laps. Figures destroyed. Struggled at the niche on each occasion; very glassy foot holds on the right side..

alicethwaites 08/Oct/13 2nd dog
Calum Wadsworth 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Did the direct. Top quality most of it is fine as long as you can jam...

with micki
Teappleby 06/Oct/13 2nd
MSchobitz 06/Oct/13 2nd O/S
Cake 01/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Very satisfying. It might be technically easy, but I would call this is a proper E1 all the same

with Matt
Helen Gibson 30/Sep/13 Lead rpt
with Chris. B
Hidden 29/Sep/13 2nd dnf
Ciderslider 29/Sep/13 2nd dog

Really annoyed - almost got it but fell just at the split - went left

taff raymond 28/Sep/13 2nd dog
morganator 21/Sep/13 Lead

Quality jamming, quite pumpy

Rich Kirby 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Helen
soph 21/Sep/13 2nd rpt
Dan Bates 21/Sep/13 -
masa-alpin 10/Sep/13 2nd β

Lovely route!

with James O
James Oswald 10/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Climbed with some dust in my eye... Great jamming with jugs on the top section. Ace.

with Masa
Joughton 10/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Misha 08/Sep/13 2nd O/S

Found this fairly straightforward and pleasant on second - in complete contrast to the horrid pumpfest experience I had leading this back in 2007. Of course seconding is easier but the main difference is that I've learned to jam! I think the crux is the few moves going up to the fork - once you're on the right hand fork, it's pretty easy. E1 for sure.

with Ed
eduardo 08/Sep/13 Lead dog

A bit pumped towards the top (again!)

with Misha
Jack93 02/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Got really pumped at the crux so I bailed out left

CurlyStevo ?/Sep/13 Lead

Did the HVS 5b variation going left at the top. The large triangular block in the crack where the HVS goes left will not be there for ever.

Hidden 19/Aug/13 Lead β
CharlieMack 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Great route! One of the best crack routes i've done. Solid jams all the way up with good holds right where you need them.

with Alice
Lenny 11/Aug/13 Lead dnf
with john- mers
jon22 11/Aug/13 Lead
with Leon Winchester
aking12 09/Aug/13 Lead
john lynch 09/Aug/13 2nd rpt
with Ant King
rpinto 21/Jul/13 Lead dnf
rpinto 21/Jul/13 2nd dog
Reedymc 13/Jul/13 Lead dog

made it half way up with out a rest then it just got tough.. took me three or so attempts to get past this section.

Hidden 04/Jul/13 2nd rpt
nickosteo ?/Jul/13 2nd dog
Julesthe1st 30/Jun/13 Lead dog
with Cathy
Andy Fielding 30/Jun/13 2nd

Right hand (E1?) finish.

with Mike Walton
oddtoast 30/Jun/13 2nd dog

Seconded with rests to get gear/practice jamming. An education!

with Gav
Hidden 30/Jun/13 2nd
cathymiller 30/Jun/13 2nd dog
with Jules
tsl42 29/Jun/13 2nd dog
with Dylan
g1m147 29/Jun/13 Lead
with Steve
Hidden 22/Jun/13 Lead rpt
Si dH 16/Jun/13 2nd rpt
with Neil Furniss
gavinpeach 08/Jun/13 Lead dog

HVS finish. Dogged once I got to the narrow crack. Would like to come back when the friction is better and have another go.

Mr Wild 02/Jun/13 2nd O/S
djones66 26/May/13 Lead dog

Hard and pumpy stuff. Gear is solid; good job, as I fell on it. The top section isn't as hard as the bits that precede itA definite sandbag at the HVS it gets in my (old...) guide book.

with Stve mc D
Hidden 25/May/13 TR dog
Martin Brierley 17/May/13 2nd

Hard. Lost a bit of skin on this. Good though .

Andy Peak 1 06/May/13 -

Super easey this time as a worm up

with Tom Martin
Siderunner 06/May/13 2nd rpt

LH finish this time

with Andrew P
Kevster 05/May/13 Lead O/S

Loads of fun.

spacecadetjake ?/May/13 2nd dnf

Didn't finish this route but will be back!

with henry peter jenkins, Robbie jenkins
john lynch 24/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with ed luke, Lewis Andrew
Hidden 24/Apr/13 2nd O/S
WillDoyle 20/Apr/13 Lead dog
benkelsey 16/Apr/13 Lead O/S

E1 direct finish. technical footwork to take the weight off your arms, a touch pumpy.

with HPC
pete1993 10/Apr/13 Lead

Did the cop out left hand finish, felt really tough

with Fran
franhammond92 10/Apr/13 2nd dog

Very sustained. Not a good choice to warm up on. Cracking route though.

Jake Young 10/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Bomber jams

with Jem
Hidden 10/Apr/13 Lead dog
Hidden 09/Apr/13 Lead
Hidden 09/Apr/13 Lead RP
Hidden 06/Apr/13 Lead rpt
stuart34 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with duncan
ashtond6 16/Feb/13 Lead dnf

still hard!!!

bclifton ??/2013 Lead
Nick Sillem ??/2013 -
ejected ??/2013 -
slugger5uk ??/2013 TR dog
Anna duckett ??/2013 2nd
with Nick Preistly
mapperley samurai 10/Nov/12 TR

Physically hard work. Not a straight forward jam fest as lead to believe. Small pebble on the right before the final diagonal good, stand up on to be positioned for the top jug.

Hidden 20/Oct/12 Lead G/U
climbingpixie 20/Oct/12 Lead dog

Got pumped and ran out of footholds at the top.

with Andy
Hidden 20/Oct/12 2nd O/S
Curly Rich 14/Oct/12 2nd dog
with GMC Peter Neden, GMC JohnP
Hidden 14/Oct/12 Lead
JRae 10/Oct/12 Lead
with Liam P
Hidden 10/Oct/12 Lead O/S
bwestwood 06/Oct/12 2nd
Peter Reynolds 06/Oct/12 Lead
Nick1812P 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Anna
Ahab 29/Sep/12 Lead rpt
sopaz 29/Sep/12 2nd
Hidden 28/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Sep/12 2nd dog
Brannock 22/Sep/12 Lead dog

Stayed with the crack all the way to the top, hard.

Hidden 15/Sep/12 Lead dnf
Hidden 09/Sep/12 2nd
Fragmod 06/Sep/12 Lead dog

Tough! Need to get beta and complete clean

Bloke on a Rope 05/Sep/12 Lead dog

WTF!! Today i realized that i can't jam worth a shite! Sat on me gear twice, boo hoo.

with Matt
Hidden 02/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Calder 01/Sep/12 2nd

Another non-warm-up. I'll learn.......

with Mark
goddamm7 24/Aug/12 Lead O/S

fell at the last hurdle then top roped to finish tough climb definitely E1 5B

with tim green
Joris.Roulleau 18/Aug/12 -

Dan started, fell at the crux. I finished.

manwithacam 18/Aug/12 Lead dog

Lead up to crux then fell. Disappointed, but a brilliant crack. Think I would have got it if I'd had a fried egg for breakfast.

with Joris
ashtond6 12/Aug/12 Lead

hard!!! climbed badly

Bry 29/Jul/12 2nd β

No jams! :-)

with Ash
clipskipper 28/Jul/12 Lead β

Popped off the last but one hold on the first attempt - careless. Otherwise a good route, if a bit short

M_W_Court 26/Jul/12 Lead rpt
JamieSparkes 22/Jul/12 2nd rpt

bit easier than last time!

David Kay 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Jamie Sparks
Graeme Hammond 18/Jul/12 2nd rpt
with Jim
catblack 15/Jul/12 2nd dog
with Jack Symmons
Gambit 15/Jul/12 TR RP

Lead with several falls, top roped clean. lots of crack practice needed, will be back

with Barney
lithos 12/Jul/12 2nd

storming jams, tough though, last route of the day

with Dan McK
Katya 05/Jul/12 2nd β
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 05/Jul/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 25/Jun/12 Lead RP
disturbed_one51 25/Jun/12 2nd
Tamati 25/Jun/12 Lead dnf
tomthecoolperson 18/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with Andrew
Graeme Hammond 11/Jun/12 2nd rpt
with Trevor Wilson
Hidden 04/Jun/12 2nd
moberg 02/Jun/12 Lead dnf

Made it to about 3/4 height ground-up

ash longreach ?/Jun/12 Lead
with John, Chris Hind, jim
tomthecoolperson 29/May/12 Lead dog
with Andrew
deacondeacon 20/May/12 Lead

proper finish having lead the cop-out finish a few years ago.

gavinpeach 20/May/12 2nd dog

Would like to come back and lead this. It's all there, but a very pumpy route.

Matt Cooke 20/May/12 Lead rpt
with Rosh
David Shelmerdine 20/May/12 2nd dog
with Max Pendleton
Hannes B 18/May/12 2nd
with Ash
Andy Peak 1 13/May/12 2nd
with Jone nuttal
climbinmunkey 13/May/12 Lead dnf

My Jamming Sucks! Got stopped by the top section and lowered off. Helen battled though and got to the top.

with Helen
John Nuttall 13/May/12 Lead
with AndyG
helenstuart 13/May/12 Lead dog


with Mike
M_W_Court 12/May/12 Lead
with Dave Luke, Alex Kealy
greenclimb 12/May/12 Lead rpt
Theeni 12/May/12 2nd
with Ian Sutcliffe
Obi-Wan is lost... 12/May/12 Lead
with Calum
JamieSparkes 12/May/12 2nd dog

felt somewhat tricky today!

ianjfsutcliffe 12/May/12 Lead
with Henry
Peakpdr 06/May/12 -
Hidden 05/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/12 2nd dog
JezzaCat ?/May/12 2nd dog
with Richard
alasdair19 ?/May/12 -
Hidden ?/May/12 2nd
williamsd79 08/Apr/12 Lead dog
HIGHTOWER 08/Apr/12 2nd

Got on allright jamming lower down, but struggled and had a tight rope at the top. Just not got the guns!

with Tom Hansford, Dylan Williams
Daniel Heath 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Went left not up. Rock was so cold, had hot aches before I could set up the belay.

with Vernon
ajc 31/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Nick
Olli-C 24/Mar/12 2nd dog

Nice propper jamming, had to rest on the rope to get the nut out :(

with chi
Chi Cheng 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Not sure it was E1 heading direct.

Dave Foster 18/Mar/12 2nd rpt

LH finish.

with Robin
robin_hackney 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S

This was probably a bad choice for my first lead of the season. Challenging...

JamieSparkes 15/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with danA
tom.e 14/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Mar/12 Lead dog
Shauna 11/Mar/12 Lead rpt
with Jules
JulesV 11/Mar/12 2nd rpt
monsteratt 11/Mar/12 2nd O/S

Tough - was starting to run out of juice by the top. Think there would have been a lot of swearing on lead.

with Nick Whimster
nickwhimster 11/Mar/12 Lead dog

fall before the top, finished left

Robbiobaby 25/Feb/12 TR dnf

Got most of the way up. Must repeat!!

Hidden 25/Feb/12 Lead
Charlie Zephyr Booth 08/Jan/12 2nd dog

hard as!

Hidden 07/Jan/12 Lead dnf
maddy.c ??/2012 Lead
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
admackie ??/2012 -
Andy Peak 1 30/Nov/11 Lead
Hidden 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S
lizzie789 06/Nov/11 2nd dnf

Dogged my up this, and got close to the top but due to position of belay took a swing when I fell off, that and general stenuous nature of jamming meant I gave up.

marcduhig 06/Nov/11 Lead dog
marcduhig 06/Nov/11 2nd O/S

Jammed all the way up.

with Lee
AdamBrown 06/Nov/11 2nd
AdamBrown 06/Nov/11 2nd
bigdrew 22/Oct/11 2nd rpt
with Mark R
mark20 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S

E1 finish, great climbing all the way

Dave Foster 01/Oct/11 Lead

Right hand finish. Pump caught me a move or two from the top. Finished after a rest on the rope.

with Robin, Si
ojp 01/Oct/11 2nd

just used the main crack as jamming practice

with Dave
robin_hackney 01/Oct/11 Lead dog

Pump fest! I had a rest on the rope (to free a jammed cam) but I was glad of the excuse. Challenging climbing when the crack starts to trend rightwards.

Matt Cooke 30/Sep/11 Lead O/S
cragtyke 28/Aug/11 2nd
with gareth h, john g
pie_eater_pete 09/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/11 2nd
w.pettet-smith 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Steve J T 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S
y2keable 02/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Fu*&!ng jammy!

with John
Helen Gibson 01/Jul/11 Lead

Direct finish, wish this climb went on forever....first E1 on grit, if quarried counts?!

dan gibson 01/Jul/11 2nd rpt
with helen gibson
TRFrost 27/Jun/11 Lead dog
with T. Bullock, L. Nedevska
Hidden 04/Jun/11 2nd dnf
thomasadixon 01/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Direct finish, felt tough for E1 (harder than Brimstone). Great route.

with Alan
Reaver2k 01/Jun/11 2nd
Apharri ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Marie Richards
bullwinkle 21/May/11 2nd O/S
with John
victim of mathematics 19/May/11 2nd O/S


soph 19/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/May/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 11/May/11 Lead O/S
JRae 11/May/11 Lead

Awesome. Less pumpy than expected. Found the crux to be just after moving right into the thin crack.

with P Latham
Ricky Rocks 01/May/11 Lead O/S
steve_yo 01/May/11 2nd
Neil R 22/Apr/11 Lead dnf
with aih
IAmAStone 18/Apr/11 2nd
with Charlie Jefferson
Hidden 18/Apr/11 Lead rpt
steve_yo 13/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with smooth
jimmyrua 09/Apr/11 Lead β
with Glaswegian folk
jimmyrua 09/Apr/11 2nd
with Glaswegian folk
gordonday 07/Apr/11 2nd rpt
with clive
Hidden 06/Apr/11 Lead RP
ali_robb ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Shauna 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Brilliant route. Went right (no sneaking off left)

with Jules
JulesV 27/Mar/11 2nd rpt
with Shauna Cunningham
cat22 19/Mar/11 2nd
with Mike
highlux 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S

This route totally deserves 3 stars! One of the best cracks I've climbed on grit. Seemed hard for the grade though with the RH (true) finish

with Liam Dangerfield
cliffrad 11/Mar/11 Lead dog

fell off near the top, a cam popped,big fall, lowered down and sent. i need lessons in how to crack climb!!!

jacobjacob 11/Mar/11 2nd β

Oh Dear...

clgladiator 26/Feb/11 2nd β
with Bob
bigie bob 26/Feb/11 Lead O/S
johniebriggs ?/Feb/11 Lead dog

pumped to the max, needed one rest after fork, then easily pushed to top.

Hidden 23/Jan/11 Lead O/S
Byronius Maximus 23/Jan/11 2nd dog

An unsung gem. Hard work as well!

tonanf ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
cymjt ??/2011 -
Steeve 11/Dec/10 Lead dog

sooo so pumped at the crux,took a rest and then ran it out to the top. took the left hand finish. havent been on routes for a while, no endurance any more!

with sam
Ahab ?/Nov/10 Lead

I believe I climbed the HVS variant.

Hidden 17/Oct/10 Lead dnf
Guy Atkinson 14/Oct/10 2nd dog
Jonathan Hall 18/Sep/10 2nd
disturbed_one51 18/Sep/10 Lead

Great jamming at the bottom with a more precarious top. Really annoyed that i slipped off at the top as i felt really comfortable all the rest of the way up. Good honest hard work

with Wee man
Speeddemonsi 16/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Lev 11/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/10 2nd dog
akhughes 03/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Dan Lane 22/Aug/10 Lead O/S

brilliant route, although most of it could be laybacked. I did the HVS version, i'll have to go back for the E1 finish.

with James McHaffie
eazyclimbing 15/Aug/10 Lead dog
with cliff
cliffrad 15/Aug/10 2nd dog

tooo hard to warm up on. struggled getting stuck nuts out. coool climbing tho!!!! u u

with ian
melonmike 07/Aug/10 Lead dog
Hidden 07/Aug/10 2nd rpt
chris j 01/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Doug
Hidden 29/Jul/10 Lead O/S
rob1 25/Jul/10 Lead dog
Hidden 25/Jul/10 Lead dnf
Pilch 23/Jul/10 2nd O/S

hung on rope briefly to get top cam out. Its all there you just need to keep going. HVS really

with Graham
Hidden 08/Jul/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 08/Jul/10 2nd β
Dale ?/Jul/10 2nd dog

very pumpy even more yosmite traing. Jamming getting better found the top hard rested on gear, will come back 4 the lead.

with rob
harold walmsley 15/Jun/10 2nd β
with Colin Struthers
JeromeT 18/May/10 Lead O/S
Birdo 15/May/10 Lead O/S
with Dave Bird
GarethHall 15/May/10 Lead dnf

Ran out of steam!!!

Hidden 14/May/10 2nd dog
Kirk 14/May/10 2nd dog

Tough direct finish.

with P Harris, Crofty
Hidden 09/May/10 2nd O/S
Pown 06/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/10 Lead O/S
dj_brigham05 02/May/10 Lead O/S
zappa 24/Apr/10 Lead dog
emmafromSB 24/Apr/10 2nd
with zappa
Hidden 22/Apr/10 2nd
Hidden 22/Apr/10 Lead
Si dH 11/Apr/10 Lead dog

Closer than I have been before. Rested just above where its possible to escape left. Placing the top nut at that point was the crux - just need to keep climbing! :(

with Tom Lambert
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
TonyF ??/2010 Lead
katyvose1 ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
petegunn 28/Oct/09 Lead
with Davina
Hidden 28/Oct/09 2nd dog
BrettB 23/Oct/09 Lead
metal arms 04/Oct/09 Lead
Hidden 23/Sep/09 2nd β
belay bunny turned bad 23/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Debbie, loundsy
Hidden 19/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Sep/09 Lead dog
cat22 06/Sep/09 2nd
with Mike
Alan James - UKC and UKH 05/Sep/09 2nd
with Donna Claridge, Mick Ryan
Michael Ryan 05/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 27/Aug/09 Lead RP
with Mike Hawkins
highrepute 20/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Aug/09 2nd
Hidden 16/Aug/09 Lead dog
DavidR 16/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Joe Costello 13/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with James
roberto18 ?/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with tom nickals
garywong 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Direct finish. Pumpy upper section.

GarethHall 25/Jul/09 2nd O/S
jeanjacquescarnages 18/Jul/09 TR dog
Hidden 11/Jul/09 2nd
peter myers ?/Jul/09 Lead
with Alex May
Hidden 13/Jun/09 Lead dog
Hidden 13/Jun/09 2nd dog
Hidden 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S
simonp ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Sion
Hetty 24/May/09 -
gordonday 13/May/09 2nd rpt
with clive
thomasadixon 07/May/09 2nd O/S
with Graeme
Graeme Hammond 07/May/09 Lead O/S

direct finish

chris sm 03/May/09 Lead O/S

Easy for E1.....

with Pippa Froggatt
aspyrex 02/May/09 2nd dog
with Martin Haworth
Martin Haworth 02/May/09 Lead β

Direct finish.

with Marek
mel holmes 29/Apr/09 2nd
with Alex@home
Diggler 25/Apr/09 Lead dog

More jamming practice needed

with Buddle
alicia 24/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Thea
Hidden 18/Apr/09 Lead dog
timbanton 05/Apr/09 -
Hidden 05/Apr/09 Lead
Reaver2k 01/Apr/09 Lead dog
with Tom Dixon, Michael, Becca, Andy
tom.ireson 21/Mar/09 Lead dnf
with David Proctor
Lewis Andrew 18/Mar/09 Lead dog

nails for the grade but i'm not much of a jammer :D

with Rich Armour
Hidden 18/Mar/09 2nd O/S
summo ??/2009 -
Tom Hopkinson 29/Dec/08 2nd dog

Hot line, super sweet

with Stuart Honick
JackCarr666 29/Dec/08 2nd O/S

First Outdoor climb ever! Sweeeeet!

Hidden ?/Nov/08 Lead
Jim Slater 18/Oct/08 Lead dog

Bloody hard work.

with Mark Mercer, Phil Lee
ksjs 28/Sep/08 Lead rpt

no pushover - very good E1. youve done all the hard work (aka awkward arm jams) by the time you get to the fork so keep trucking and youll be rewarded with good holds and more bomb-proof gear.

Paz 16/Sep/08 2nd rpt

Felt tougher than remembered.

with TS
Tim Steward 16/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with James Parrot
clive-greenwood 13/Sep/08 2nd O/S
SteveM 13/Sep/08 Lead rpt

After mucking up the left hand finish last time, got the harder right hand finish clean.

with Kat
kitkat78 13/Sep/08 2nd dog

Fewer than the last time I tried it.. maybe third time lucky I'll get it clean.

with SteveM
mel holmes 22/Aug/08 Lead dog
with Tony Reed
mel holmes 22/Aug/08 Lead dog
with Tony Reed
danfitz 19/Aug/08 Lead dog
Claire Taylor 13/Aug/08 2nd dog
Hidden ?/Aug/08 -
Hidden 13/Jul/08 2nd dog
Dave Foster ?/Jul/08 2nd O/S

Scuttled off left.. but only to retrieve Dave's gear of course!

with Dave P
Ian Broome 15/Jun/08 2nd
al99 15/Jun/08 Lead dog
martinazando 15/Jun/08 2nd O/S
goi.ashmore 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with John Marsland
John Marsland 14/Jun/08 2nd dog
with Goi
Hidden 12/Jun/08 Lead O/S
dave_middleton 11/Jun/08 2nd dog

Need to practise jamming - technique poor.

with Martin
Martin Haworth 10/Jun/08 Lead dog
with dave
alaan 07/Jun/08 2nd O/S

Sooo much fun!!

with Matt
mattyork2 07/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Think it probably deserves E1 for direct finish. Great route. Inspired to do it after John Horscroft's review in 'Climber' and like the article, it didn't fail to entertain. ( :

yan ?/Jun/08 -
dannyboy83 25/May/08 Lead O/S
with Cat Higgs
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 18/May/08 2nd rpt
OffshoreAndy 17/May/08 Lead O/S
with NCC Kelvin
kitkat78 15/May/08 2nd dog
with SteveM
SteveM 15/May/08 Lead dog

Reverting back to type: tried to put in too much gear in the section of tight hands and pumped out without committing to the move :-(

with Kat
Hidden 13/May/08 Lead
Jim Slater 03/May/08 2nd dog

direct finish...tough

bfreeman 26/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Tim Marjot
Karlos 26/Apr/08 TR dog
Alex Mason 09/Feb/08 Lead O/S

pumpy and brilliant

with andy g
Hidden ??/2008 -
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Sean Kelly ??/2008 -
Hidden 21/Oct/07 2nd dnf
Hidden 14/Oct/07 2nd dnf
Stig 27/Sep/07 Lead dog

Fell near top while clipping gear. Pumpy.

Siderunner 08/Sep/07 Lead O/S

Finished on R. My sort of climb :-)

with Seb P
ksjs 08/Jul/07 2nd rpt
with sarah
PanzerHanzler 07/Jul/07 2nd dog

Rested after trying for direct finish somewhat unsucessfully. Bailed out to the left.

with Martin Hore
wilchivs 26/Jun/07 2nd
with Dave Ripley
Hidden 26/Jun/07 Lead dog
Mark Walter 26/Jun/07 2nd
with Jon Bleiker
Cardi 26/Jun/07 2nd
with Ben D
Andrew Sloan 17/Jun/07 Lead dog
with Richard
Hidden 02/Jun/07 Lead
Misha ?/Jun/07 Lead dog
nai 25/May/07 Lead
with Tim
tlr 25/May/07 2nd
with Pom
Hidden 20/May/07 2nd
Hidden ?/May/07 Lead
doug s 29/Apr/07 Lead
with mike
AJ007 26/Apr/07 2nd dog
with Dan
dan gibson 26/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with AJ
Mr Powly 25/Apr/07 2nd
Brian Rodgers 22/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Ian Bruce
peter myers ?/Apr/07 TR
Nicos 30/Jan/07 Lead O/S
Pete Graham ??/2007 Lead O/S
tonanf ?/Dec/06 Lead RP

finished left. Straight up looked liked it needed some know-how. And it weas getting dark

with graham
Hidden 12/Nov/06 2nd dnf
Jim Vach 10/Oct/06 Lead

Left hand finish

with Oli Lyon
Si dH 04/Oct/06 Lead dog

One fall, then climbed back up and rested on top piece, then finished leftwards - i.e. wimped out. This is a great little route but its bloody hard work. Perhaps its teh sort of HVS/E1 I'll oly be able to do once Im onsighting E3.

with Tom Lambert
Luke Brooks 21/Sep/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/06 2nd dog
Hidden 20/Sep/06 Lead rpt
Cragrat Rich 16/Sep/06 Lead O/S

Went much smoother than expected. Placed gear under pressure in upper right crack just after the fork (crux), then continued strenously but without worry. Should certainly be done in full if you`re trying to claim E1

Hidden 16/Sep/06 Lead O/S
a_radiohead_fan ?/Sep/06 -

utterly desperate.

John Kettle 29/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 15/Jul/06 Lead dog
Ram MkiV 24/Jun/06 Lead O/S

good warm up

with Mick & Alex
Hidden 24/Jun/06 2nd
Chesh 03/Jun/06 Lead O/S

Mash, Lawrence and Scots Paul seconded, Mash lowered of the other 2 got up with aid of the rope

with ScotsPaul
Oli 31/May/06 Lead O/S

Got pumped and took leftward exit.

with Wayne
reg_measures 14/May/06 Lead O/S
with Ralph
Brown 20/Jan/06 Lead O/S
with Henry
Boy ??/2006 -
Jon Greengrass ??/2006 Lead rpt
with Glen
Si dH 12/Sep/05 2nd dog
with Alex
Hidden 16/Aug/05 Lead rpt
Hidden 14/Aug/05 Lead
Hidden 10/Aug/05 Lead
Hopevalleypaul 10/Jul/05 2nd

Dragged up

with Tony
Hidden 03/Jun/05 Lead O/S
Sam and will 15/May/05 Lead O/S
with Anthony Bennett
Mark Riley ?/Apr/05 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/2005 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 Lead
shark 01/Sep/04 Lead
with Jon Winter
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 25/Aug/04 2nd rpt
lukea 12/Jul/04 2nd O/S
with Al
chrishedgehog 15/May/04 Lead dog
with Mark Gill
MeMeMe ??/2004 Lead O/S
Dave Bond 15/Oct/03 Lead O/S
with Rich Hatton
cem 31/Aug/03 2nd
Leofallon 28/Jun/03 2nd
Hidden ?/Jun/03 Lead O/S
shoulders 22/Mar/03 Lead
with paul
Hidden 02/Mar/03 Lead β
nickdonohue ?/Aug/02 Lead

Brilliant jamming

with Joe Brown
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Jul/02 Lead O/S
with Ian Smith
loonyclimber ?/Jun/02 Lead
Hidden 23/May/02 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/02 2nd dog
Hidden 11/Mar/02 Lead
Hidden ??/2002 -
Carl Smethurst 16/Sep/01 2nd O/S
with Ian Pickles
Hidden 20/Aug/01 Lead
Carl Smethurst 08/Oct/00 2nd O/S
with Ian Pickles
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 05/Aug/00 TR dog
with Craig Cambell
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Dave
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
Mike Parker ?/May/99 TR
with Dan + Dan Dockerty
Hidden ??/1999 TR
cragspud ??/1998 2nd
skygodley 18/Oct/97 Lead O/S
Budge 12/Sep/97 Lead dog
with Brian Ottewell
Hidden ??/1997 Lead
adam carless ??/1997 Lead O/S
with uni club
rob.grafton ??/1997 Lead
with barry maybank
Hidden ?/Apr/96 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Feb/95 TR
John Southworth ??/1995 -
Chris Ellis 31/Jul/94 Lead
with Rachel Nicolson
Hidden 12/Jul/94 2nd
Neil R 15/Jun/94 Lead
with Richard W
WB ??/1994 Lead O/S
with Will G
Hidden 28/Jul/93 2nd
Roget 19/Jun/93 Lead O/S
with colin, baccy
IanD353 ?/Jun/93 Lead O/S
uphillnow 26/Mar/93 Lead

may have done earlier

AlanLittle ??/1993 2nd
with Robert Clark
Tony Little 18/Jun/92 Lead O/S
with Sam
Hidden 23/Apr/92 TR
Hidden 11/Apr/92 2nd
craig d ??/1992 -
adi bryant ?/Apr/91 AltLd O/S
with Tim
NickJH ??/1991 -
samt 01/Apr/90 Lead dnf

My first leader fall

with Scott Willoughby
Nick Rundall ??/1990 Lead O/S

I might have seconded this?

phil64 ??/1990 Lead O/S
Rob Davies ?/Jan/89 2nd


Alan James - UKC and UKH 24/Jul/87 Lead
with Nigel Gregory, Brian Harley
Chris Ellis 19/Apr/87 2nd
with Andy Barker
steve taylor ??/1987 Lead
Hidden ??/1987 -
Steve Crowe 06/Sep/86 Lead O/S
babymoac 19/Jul/86 2nd
with Jon Stone
andy gittins ??/1985 -
John Marsland 05/Aug/84 Lead
with Tony Rex
John Marsland 07/Apr/84 Lead
with Dave Mould
Andy Fielding ??/1984 Lead
with Steve Hartland
Tom V ??/1984 -
Nigel Bond 13/Nov/83 2nd
with Charlie Leverton
mark-abz 07/Sep/82 2nd
with Eric P
Ian Jones ??/1982 Lead
with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1982 Lead
charlesmfrench ??/1982 Lead O/S
ewar woowar ??/1982 -
Hammy 02/Nov/80 2nd
with Rob Lawson
Hidden 11/May/80 Lead
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Robmwatt ??/1980 -
Robmwatt ??/1980 -
Hidden 22/Sep/79 2nd
Dave Musgrove 23/Jun/77 AltLd
Mark Kemball 24/Apr/77 2nd dnf
with Paul Clark
Mark Kemball 02/Mar/76 2nd
with Martin Berzins
Al Evans ??/1976 -
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC ??/1976 -
Derek Ryden ?/Oct/75 2nd O/S
with Glynne Andrew
RichardMc 09/Jun/75 Lead
with Les Gillot
petemeads ??/1975 -
clanger ??/1972 -
Hidden ??/1950 Lead O/S
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High E2
Mid E2
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 148
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 144
Votes cast 133
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set