South Yorkshire > Millstone Edge >
 
Mayday* HVS 5a

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<< Cioch Corner
 
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22m. Climb the balancy arete of the Cioch - hard to start - to its tip, and a finish up the exposed arete of Cioch Corner. © ROCKFAX
FA. Alan Clarke early 1960s 1962

Ticklists: Millstone HVS's.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 252 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/14

looks more difficult than what it is, the left edge of the start arete is the key
drsdave - 2nd - 24/Aug/14 with Mat

Found it hard to put wires into the crack at the start - difficult to get in balance. The sequence up to getting established on the first big jug felt quite hard and precarious. After that, unfortunately a little too easy. However, the arete on the second half is fun. Worth doing.
djones66 - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/14 with Stve mc D

P2
ashtond6 - Lead rpt - 18/Aug/14

Top rope solo. Got it 2nd go after slipping off a rather greasy foothold about 3-4 metres off the ground!
robblowen - Solo RP - 09/Aug/14

PenJD - Lead rpt - 11/Jun/14 with Chris Vanderhoven

To top of Cioch then escaped down ledges.
Andrew Barker - Solo O/S - 28/Apr/14 with Si

RosieLynch - 2nd O/S - 26/Apr/14 with Anthony King

john lynch - Solo - 26/Apr/14

aking12 - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/14 with Rosie Lynch

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Apr/14

Binder - 2nd O/S - 13/Apr/14 with Hugh T

dazwan - 2nd - 30/Mar/14

Yeah, it's all about the start. Very nice S/HS grade finish up the exposed upper arete.
ebf - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/14 with Will Poulter

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Mar/14

drobin - Lead - 05/Mar/14

Calum Wadsworth - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/13 with micki

MSchobitz - 2nd O/S - 06/Oct/13 with Calum

Rested, finished up the severe above.
Tradical - Lead dog - 05/Oct/13 with Sally Roberts

Colin Scotchford - 2nd - 05/Oct/13

ricky6386 - 2nd dog - 24/Sep/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/13

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 22/Sep/13

Climbster - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/13 with Julia

Pleasant, short lived difficulties low down
morganator - 2nd - 21/Sep/13 with Sophie Whyte

Hidden - 2nd dog - 21/Sep/13

soph - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/13 with jon morgan

Rob Laird - 2nd O/S - 08/Sep/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/13

Backed off start, but without a fall, after getting pumped placing the second runner. Started up again and lead it clean.
therat - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/13

mrteale - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/13

tough start.
mark4344 - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/13 with Andreas

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/13

Fall/take just before getting on arete. Messed up sequence.
tsl42 - Lead dog - 29/Jun/13 with Dylan

quickdrawmcraw - 2nd - 22/Jun/13

alooker - 2nd O/S - Jun/13 with Paul, Ed

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/May/13

A boulder problem, albeit nice, into a Severe
Siderunner - Lead rpt - 06/May/13 with Andrew P

Fragmod - 2nd - 24/Apr/13

john lynch - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/13 with ed luke

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead RP - 24/Apr/13

ashtond6 - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/13

rachelpearce01 - TR O/S - 10/Apr/13

Jake Young - Lead rpt - 10/Apr/13 with Jem

Hidden - TR O/S - 10/Apr/13

bclifton - Lead - 2013

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Oct/12

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Oct/12

HarryB - 2nd O/S - 08/Sep/12 with Si

Nice to route
ojp - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/12 with Harry

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/12

goddamm7 - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/12 with tim green

Hidden - Lead dog - 18/Aug/12

Adil - 2nd O/S - 18/Aug/12 with John Tomlinson

eduardo - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/12 with Paul Hennelly

Bouldery start is the only tricky section. Easier for the tall (aren't they all)
clipskipper - 2nd - 28/Jul/12 with Steve Cousins

DavidR - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/12 with Andy Asaam

Gambit - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/12 with Barney

chrisbussell - 2nd - 03/Jul/12 with Tim O'Neill

tomthecoolperson - 2nd - 18/Jun/12 with Andrew

Webster - 2nd rpt - 05/Jun/12

Phoebus - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12

Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 23/May/12 with Rosie, john Bramwell

treg - Lead O/S - 20/May/12 with Rachel

Fragmod - Lead - 13/May/12

stev1e.wilso - 2nd - 13/May/12 with Simon, Dylan

simon1985 - Lead - 13/May/12 with Steve Wilson

First part is a lovely, balancy fingerjam and smear. After that, relatively easy, although the traversing part of the arrète was frightening as second.
AlexKervyn - 2nd β - 13/May/12

bigbadbob12345 - 2nd - 13/May/12 with simonhicklin, Steve Wilson

M_W_Court - Lead - 12/May/12 with Dave Luke, Alex Kealy

Theeni - 2nd - 12/May/12 with Ian Sutcliffe

ianjfsutcliffe - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with Henry

pauldr - 06/May/12

Hidden - 2nd - May/12

Daniel Heath - Solo O/S - 07/Apr/12 with Vernon

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Mar/12

Jonathan Hall - Lead - 24/Mar/12 with Rob Middleton

mike lawrence? - Lead - 01/Mar/12 with luca

ash longreach - 2nd - 2012 with John

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Piers Harley - 2nd - 24/Oct/11 with Laurence King

LJKing - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/11 with Piers Harley

climbing_wiggy - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/11 with Leon

Lenny - 2nd O/S - 22/Oct/11 with Paul

Start of super direct into this at about VS
Stone Muppet - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11 with pe

petellis - Lead rpt - 15/Oct/11 with Sideshow Bob, Broomy, Alpha Blue

Nice low moves
ojp - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Dave, Robin

Dave Foster - 2nd rpt - 01/Oct/11 with Robin, Si

rich_hw - Lead rpt - 01/Oct/11 with MartinWilliams87

robin_hackney - 2nd O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Dave Foster, Simon Petty

Marcin78 - 2nd - Oct/11 with Paul Ingate

Really fun moves up the starting bit!
Guy Atkinson - 2nd O/S - 22/Sep/11 with Ben Dorey

Hidden - Lead - 21/Sep/11

tompilgrem - 2nd O/S - 31/Aug/11 with Dad

Nice moves to start climb-crux- once established on arete it eases.
bobpilgrem - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/11 with Bob/Tom

dan gibson - Lead rpt - 01/Jul/11 with helen gibson

Hidden - Lead - 14/Jun/11

In very wet conditions on slab!
tracyclimber - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11

stuaart - 2nd O/S - 21/May/11 with Chris Burn

chris_B - Lead - 21/May/11 with stuart reeves

done before
chris_B - Lead - 21/May/11 with stuart reeves

slacky - 14/May/11 with Nick Taylor, Ben

Kendrick - 2nd - 29/Mar/11 with Mr Hobbs

Tom Redmond - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/11 with jake young

Jake Young - 2nd O/S - 20/Mar/11 with Tom Redmond

Thin moves low down then a romp
mark20 - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/11

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2nd RP - 17/Oct/10

Tony Holdsworth - Lead rpt - 25/Sep/10 with Ian Holtby

holters - 2nd - 25/Sep/10

Alasdair88 - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/10 with Claire

tomthecoolperson - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/10 with Andrew

Craig McMahon - Lead β - 05/Sep/10 with Joe

Ham's led couch corner, followed up the HVS
DaNo123 - 2nd - 04/Sep/10 with mike hams, Hanzler

PanzerHanzler - 2nd - 04/Sep/10 with Dan Simmonds

Start was certainly rather sketchy.
whiting.jp - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/10 with jamesca

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Aug/10

Craig McMahon - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/10 with Mark Hawkins

hawkins321 - 2nd β - 01/Aug/10 with craig mcmahon

Stuart Wildman - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/10 with Dave Shep

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/10

Anthony mccourt - 2nd β - 23/May/10

Anthony mccourt - 2nd β - 23/May/10

Shauna - Lead O/S - 18/May/10 with Steve

joe1979 - Lead - 09/May/10

Andy Peak 1 - Lead O/S - 05/May/10 with pabage

pabbage - 05/May/10

zappa - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10 with Emma Wright

emmafromSB - 2nd - 24/Apr/10 with zappa

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/10

take lots of small wires, micros even if you have them. enjoyable route but dont bother with the severe top out, its shit, absail off of a tree.
Webster - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/10

wilchivs - 2nd O/S - 14/Mar/10 with Dave Webster

TonyF - Lead - 2010

nia - Lead - 2010 with Ben Redgate

Ketu - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/09 with Paul, Charles M

Ant Man Bee - 2nd - 06/Sep/09 with Charles Moreton, Rob Truckle

cem - Lead rpt - 06/Sep/09 with Rob Truckle, Paul Bolton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/09

sammo247 - 2nd - 02/Aug/09

daveclarke5 - 2nd - 27/Jun/09 with Andy

Hidden - Lead - 13/Jun/09

gazfellows - 2nd - 21/Mar/09

nice climbing. fun!
Lewis Andrew - Solo O/S - 18/Mar/09

Very tricky for the first 10ft. Probably 5a if you can figure out the best sequence, 5b if you just go with what seems obvious. It's a romp to the top after that.
adam carless - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/09 with dpmuk

dpmUK - 2nd dog - 15/Mar/09 with Adam Carless

summo - 2009

Technical and quite bold start, easier after swing left on fat pinch.
Dave Foster - Lead O/S - 28/Dec/08 with Andy

Whealiebob - Lead RP - 27/Sep/08 with Stee

dycotiles - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/08 with Matt

BigToe - 2nd - 27/Sep/08 with Whealiebob

Hidden - Lead β - 21/Sep/08

Brown - Solo O/S - 18/Sep/08 with Henry

petellis - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/08 with Jim in Seconding Mode

mel holmes - 2nd - 22/Aug/08 with Tony Reed

mel holmes - 2nd - 22/Aug/08 with Tony Reed

Hidden - 2nd dog - 26/Jul/08

Took a couple of small falls off this, before climbing clean from the ground. Not the best lead style, though, one piece of gear placed while dogging up from the high point, to protect the crux. Would be nice to improve on the style. Nice climbing, though, very technical and a bit tricky in 28 degree heat!
Quiddity - Lead RP - 26/Jul/08 with Curious Yellow

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/08

PenJD - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/08 with Mick Fox

Pete Horn - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/08 with Gerard

Clean ascent this time, but still found it hard and precarious
Pilch - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/08 with Ed

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Jun/08

EdShep - 2nd O/S - 12/Jun/08 with Pilch

Good route
dickie01 - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/08 with and a third, Ross Comfort

Hidden - Lead rpt - 31/May/08

FrankW - 2nd O/S - 26/May/08 with Liz Y

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 25/May/08 with Joe

Hidden - Lead - 13/May/08

Karlos - 2nd O/S - 26/Apr/08 with Paul Lee

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Sean Kelly - 2008

mattwyles1 - 2nd - 2008

Siderunner - 2nd O/S - 08/Sep/07 with Seb P

roberto18 - Lead - 17/Aug/07 with Martin Bridges, Chris Bridges

Joe Dove - Lead - 12/Aug/07 with paul

jamiev - 2nd β - 10/Jul/07 with Kenta

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Jul/07

PanzerHanzler - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/07 with Martin Hore

btc - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/07 with Susannah Ellis

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Jun/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/07

JL's Notes - Nice & Technical. Ab'd for the gear when Steve couldn't manage it. Probably not a wise move trying it - felt guilty.
sjblake - 2nd O/S - 02/Jun/07 with Jon Leighton

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/07

Toby Dunn - 2nd - 24/May/07 with Ruth

tlr - Lead - 22/May/07 with Jez Portman

dicky79 - Lead O/S - 06/May/07 with Pete

coffeepot - 2nd - 05/May/07 with jelaby

Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - May/07 with Andy

Hidden - Lead - 26/Apr/07

dan gibson - 2nd O/S - 26/Apr/07 with AJ

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 18/Apr/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/07

Pete Graham - Lead O/S - 2007 with James Fleming

4 goes at the lower section, to terminal forearm pump. A project.
Hamster - 2nd dnf - 05/Nov/06 with Lundyman

a_radiohead_fan - Sep/06

greg101 - 2nd - 29/Jul/06 with Matt O'Connor

Hidden - Lead - 24/Jun/06

chrisclimber_1986 - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/06 with William Kelsall

Hidden - Lead - Jun/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/May/06

timharrison - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/06 with Trevor Macalonan

Great, love it.
Peter Swift - TR O/S - 30/Apr/06 with Tim H

Having messed around on the start of the route, the 2000mph wind blowing over the top didn't help much. Pretty much got blown up the last 7-8 metres of the climb. End of climbing for the day!
EG - Lead rpt - 13/Apr/06 with Kristy

Usual problems of placing gear where I needed to place my fingers on the first few moves on the cioch; the rest was easy.
EG - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/05 with Kristy

Fantastic sunset - then rain
Chris the Tall - Lead rpt - Aug/05 with Simon Shaw

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/05

Adam Potter - 2nd - 07/Jun/05

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/May/05

Hidden - 2nd - 2005

Hidden - 2005

shark - Lead - 01/Sep/04 with Jon Winter

Different Steve - Lead O/S - Jun/03 with Rupert Holbrook

Reds - Lead dnf - 16/Jun/02 with Rod

Hidden - 2nd O/S - May/02

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Mar/02

Hidden - 2002

Andy S - Lead O/S - Aug/01

Worrying start.Great top half
martroberts - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/01

cem - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/01 with Neil Northrop, Miles Butteriss

DerwentDiluted - Lead - 20/Apr/01 with Laurie Smith

Phill Mitch - Lead O/S - 2001 with steve winter

Carl Smethurst - 2nd O/S - 08/Oct/00 with Ian Pickles

tlr - 2nd - 2000

tuftynick - Lead - 2000

The Pylon King - Lead O/S - 2000

Budge - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/97 with Brian Ottewell

BruceW - Lead O/S - 1996

borderline - 2nd O/S - 1995

leathers - Lead β - 11/Jun/94 with Charlotte Evans

Hidden - Lead - 1994

malc - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/93 with ??

Roget - Solo O/S - 19/Jun/93 with colin, baccy

Chris the Tall - Lead O/S - Jun/93 with Bill G

Very first HVS lead after winter on Wymondham climbing wall. Tricky start and confident finish required. Could not boulder start on a later early season visit!
Scott McRae - Lead O/S - Apr/93 with Steve Jones

craig d - 1992

NickJH - 2nd - Apr/90 with D Townsend

babymoac - Lead - 16/Jul/89 with Alan S

Hidden - Solo O/S - 27/Mar/88

Alan James - UKC and UKH - Solo - 24/Jul/87

steve prior - Lead - Jul/87 with Sam M

GordonHart - Lead O/S - 1987 with Kevin

Andy Fielding - Lead - 1984 with Steve Hartland

Tom V - 1984

mark-abz - Lead - 17/Sep/82 with Andy W

Ian Jones - Lead - 1982 with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc

Hidden - Solo - 18/Jun/81

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Jun/77

Hidden - Lead - 27/Jun/77

Mark Kemball - Solo - 24/Apr/77

Jonathan Lagoe - UKC - 1975

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, arin78

Voting
Total votes cast 158
hard E10 of 55
E10 of 55
easy E10 of 55
hard HVS3 of 55
HVS36 of 55
easy HVS14 of 55
hard VS2 of 55
VS0 of 55
easy VS0 of 55
hard 5b0 of 56
5b0 of 56
easy 5b5 of 56
hard 5a32 of 56
5a17 of 56
easy 5a2 of 56
hard 4c0 of 56
4c0 of 56
easy 4c0 of 56
3 Stars2 of 47
2 Stars8 of 47
1 Star35 of 47
0 Stars2 of 47
Bag of .....0 of 47
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Style of ascent

Soloed11 of 252 (4.4%)
Lead133 of 252 (52.8%)
Followed90 of 252 (35.7%)
Toproped3 of 252 (1.2%)
Alt Leads1 of 252 (0.4%)
Unknown14 of 252 (5.6%)

'Climbed'91 of 252 (36.1%)
clean O/S123 of 252 (48.8%)
clean β8 of 252 (3.2%)
clean rpt16 of 252 (6.3%)
clean RP5 of 252 (2.0%)
dogged7 of 252 (2.8%)
dnf2 of 252 (0.8%)