Rockfax Description
The thin peg-scarred crack splitting the front of the Cioch proves tricky at the bulge. No escaping out right! © Rockfax

FAA. Mike James 1959. FFA. Pete Brayshaw 1975

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Millstone HVS's, Millstone * HVS In a day, WideBoyz Crack School.

Hidden 19/Oct Lead O/S
Alex_Derbyshire 19/Oct 2nd
with Lloyd
FlavioL1989 17/Oct Lead O/S
rajeshwarbisht 17/Oct 2nd dog
with Flavio
pulseroom 17/Sep 2nd
djones66 13/Sep Lead O/S

Was pleased to do this clean. Felt hard to me, but such good gear was hard to get too worried. Turns out that when you've got established on the upper slab it gets a lot easier.

with Stve mc D
Hidden 11/Sep Lead
Thunderthighsontheloose 11/Sep 2nd O/S
with Dave
ChrisBrooke 06/Sep Lead O/S

E1 in my old Rockfax. HVS seems much more like it. Cruisy climbing on solid finger lockers.

with Andy, Cat Freeman
KeenClimber 14/Jul Lead O/S
with Ian Dugdale
TobyA 18/Jun Lead dog

Good gear but hanging around long enough to place it is hard!

with Josh
lanky 18/Jun 2nd
with TobyA
Hidden 07/Jun Lead O/S
bryce.dorin 07/Jun 2nd RP
with dunnyg
GregBristol 04/Jun 2nd
with Pete PCC
bryce.dorin 30/May Lead dog
with Craig
jamesturnbull 23/May Lead
with rich howells
sdixon 26/Apr 2nd
ashtond6 11/Apr 2nd
marconi 21/Mar Lead O/S
with Chris
MrBIond 12/Mar 2nd β
mrteale 12/Mar Lead O/S
with MrBlond
john lynch 03/Mar Lead
with Maj
Felix la shat ??/2015 TR O/S
with Louis
MarcinGobczynski ??/2015 Lead G/U
Sam Simpson 09/Nov/14 2nd O/S
Mark Grist 09/Nov/14 Lead RP
with Tom Doldon
john lynch 02/Nov/14 Lead
with Bethan D
RosieLynch 10/Oct/14 2nd dog
with Hannah Asquith, Andy Asquith, Ed Austin, Anthony King
Nick1812P 03/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Dan, Ben
benkelsey 03/Oct/14 2nd O/S


Ollie B 21/Sep/14 Lead β

Bob led, pulled the ropes then I led.

with B.Brewer
cjsheps 18/Sep/14 Lead O/S
phildawson 18/Sep/14 2nd
with Chris Shepherd
robgixer 13/Sep/14 2nd
ashtond6 07/Sep/14 Lead rpt

Thin fingers practise

alp79 07/Sep/14 2nd dog

Direct, had to rest before stepping up through the roof. Would like to do again clean.

Hidden 30/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Stickle Tarn 18/Aug/14 Lead dog

Slipped on the crux. Probably because I was super pumped. Fell on No.4 nut. Wasn't too bad once I'd got the move worked out.

ashtond6 18/Aug/14 Lead rpt
David Mayers 13/Aug/14 2nd
with Stuart Howard
rurp 12/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Hard work, solid climbing, numb fingers

with bill farmer
Brannock 26/Jul/14 Lead rpt

Board line HVS.

Nigel Bond 26/Jul/14 2nd
Hidden 05/Jul/14 Lead rpt
ashtond6 05/Jul/14 2nd

silly pop on easy ground haha

twoshoes127 12/Jun/14 Lead
Ewano 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Was told it was HVS 5a so did it first, seems more reasonable that E1 5b. Bit of a one move wonder.

spragglerocks 31/May/14 AltLd

James led the actual climb. Foot slipped on crux, I just led the easy arÍte to the top.

Batt 31/May/14 2nd dog

Slippy feet on the crux :(

Hoyes 31/May/14 Lead O/S
Mr. K 21/May/14 2nd dog
James Oswald 21/May/14 Lead dog

Yoyo'd after Kyle fell off. Then fell off myself on the crux! Glad this has been upgraded to E1. Tough if you can't get your foot on!

henry peter jenkins 16/May/14 2nd
Hidden 16/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/May/14 Lead RP
j.buckley87 14/May/14 2nd dog
aking12 02/May/14 Lead
Hidden ?/May/14 Lead
Andrew Barker 28/Apr/14 Lead

To top of Cioch. Good moves.

with Si
RosieLynch 26/Apr/14 2nd dog
Hidden 24/Apr/14 Lead dog
Hidden 24/Apr/14 2nd dog
belay bunny turned bad 09/Apr/14 Lead
with Mark w, al
MSchobitz 05/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Really good line and a hard route to practice fingerlocks on. Getting stood up above the bulge is definitely the crux, but the gear is bomber.

with USMC
ClemB 05/Mar/14 2nd
gdjcoleman ??/2014 2nd dnf

Escaped right at the bulge

with Simon
uphillnow ??/2014 -
mileshill540 ??/2014 Lead
Hidden 06/Oct/13 Lead dog
Hidden 08/Sep/13 -
Hidden 08/Sep/13 -
deacondeacon 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Wayne S 01/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with John
Brannock 01/Sep/13 Lead dog

Shamefully had a rest, cold hands/flash pump, more like HVS...

sopaz 18/Aug/13 2nd
with Mackie
admackie 18/Aug/13 -
Lenny 11/Aug/13 2nd β
with john- mers
jon22 11/Aug/13 Lead
with Leon Winchester
Reedymc 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S

nice moves nice finger stacks..

tsl42 29/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Dylan
Hidden 22/Jun/13 2nd O/S
quickdrawmcraw 22/Jun/13 2nd
Hidden 16/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Jun/13 2nd rpt
OliverIF 16/Jun/13 Lead RP

Got it second time

Mr Wild 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hardcore Pat 31/May/13 Lead O/S
with Chris Vanderz
Hidden 06/May/13 Lead O/S
Tom Cox 06/May/13 Lead O/S
SteveJCox 06/May/13 2nd
with Tom Cox
john lynch 24/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with ed luke, Lewis Andrew
Hidden 24/Apr/13 2nd dog
ashtond6 21/Apr/13 Lead rpt
tsl42 21/Apr/13 Lead dog
WillDoyle 20/Apr/13 Lead dog

Went right for a rest.

Jake Young 10/Apr/13 2nd O/S
with Jem
Hidden 10/Apr/13 Lead dog
Hidden 06/Apr/13 Lead rpt
ashtond6 16/Feb/13 Lead rpt
madasten 10/Nov/12 Lead dog

Got pumped placing gear over the bulge so had a cheeky rest. Was gutted to find that the top section is really easy despite looking sustained and intimidating! Should have gone for it first time. Never mind! Cracking little route

with Miquel
Fragmod 03/Nov/12 2nd
Hidden 03/Nov/12 Lead O/S
Curly Rich 14/Oct/12 2nd O/S
with GMC Peter Neden, GMC JohnP
Hidden 14/Oct/12 Lead
Hidden 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
staceyjg 02/Sep/12 2nd

Seconded this, rested just before crux!Pulled through the overlap with a high left rockover, rather strenuous, once at the top of the crux, hands off rest while tendonitus thrummed for a bit! Moved on when this calmed down, chuffed with this effort, but not sure if I'd go as far as it being E1.

Andy Peak 1 02/Sep/12 2nd
Diggler 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Johnny, andyob, Calder
Hidden 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Calder 01/Sep/12 2nd
with Mark
Bry 29/Jul/12 2nd β
with Jim
clipskipper 28/Jul/12 Lead dog

Failed to commit to the crux straight away and got too tired faffing around.

JamieSparkes 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S

awkward, committing, and not actually that much fun!

David Kay 22/Jul/12 2nd

Followed the blood marked holds. You know you enjoyed it really Jamie!...

with Jamie Sparks
DavidR 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Did this as a second a while back...first time on it on lead.

Hidden 25/Jun/12 2nd rpt
disturbed_one51 25/Jun/12 Lead
Tamati 25/Jun/12 2nd
Graeme Hammond 23/May/12 2nd rpt
Hannes B 18/May/12 2nd
with Ash
Obi-Wan is lost... 12/May/12 2nd
with Calum
Hidden 05/May/12 2nd rpt
robin_hackney 05/May/12 Lead O/S
with Si
Hidden 04/May/12 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/May/12 Lead O/S
Daniel Heath 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Thought the crux was bold but I guess the gear was there if I wanted to use it. The top slab had some reassuring footholds.

with Vernon
ajc 31/Mar/12 2nd dog
with Nick
Hidden 24/Mar/12 Lead
the power 17/Mar/12 2nd dnf
Hidden 17/Mar/12 Lead dog
nrhardy 17/Mar/12 2nd dog
Tomprusk 29/Feb/12 Lead O/S
with Hannah P, Rosie
Hidden 07/Jan/12 Lead dnf
Dan Mckinlay ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Kevster ??/2012 Lead O/S
JaseSSDD 20/Nov/11 2nd dog
with Ian Barker
climbing_wiggy 22/Oct/11 TR dog

1 rest. Lovely climb

with Leon
Lenny 22/Oct/11 Lead dnf
with Paul
Stone Muppet 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Start of Mayday into this but probably went too far right so HVS

with pe
GrantB 15/Oct/11 2nd
with Crispin
chrisbussell 28/Jun/11 Lead
with Tim O'Neill
Hidden 14/Jun/11 2nd
Shauna 09/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Jules
Graeme Hammond 31/May/11 Lead O/S

really nice, fortunately much easier than it looks, perfect juggy finger locks and gear. HVS 5b

Hidden 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/11 Lead
tom.e 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Alan
jimmyrua 09/Apr/11 Lead β
with Glaswegian folk
Reaver2k 09/Apr/11 2nd
with tom.e
Hidden 06/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Kyuzo 19/Mar/11 -
mark20 08/Mar/11 Lead RP

After bailing out right last time

Hidden 08/Feb/11 2nd dog
Hidden 23/Jan/11 2nd O/S
Byronius Maximus 23/Jan/11 Lead

Not sure I should claim this as I went too far right at the bulge, didn't read the guide before. Probably more like HVS 5a that way.

cymjt ??/2011 -
Jonathan Hall 30/Oct/10 Lead

Agree it would be HVS if you cheat like a bastard. Otherwise its gotta be E1.

Hidden 17/Oct/10 TR RP
Hidden 17/Oct/10 Lead dnf
mark20 16/Oct/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 12/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Guy Atkinson 12/Oct/10 2nd dog
Milne 12/Oct/10 2nd O/S
DavidR 19/Sep/10 2nd dog

Fell off moving above the overlap.

ojp 21/Aug/10 2nd
with Dave, Si
Dave Foster 21/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Si
chris j 01/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Doug
Hidden 29/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Chris_barr 05/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Oli
Stuart Wildman 04/Jul/10 Lead β

This site say E1 5b, the Voting HVS 5b. I found Mayday easy and this a bugger. After the bulge, bugger all feet, though was last climb of the day.

Hidden 12/Jun/10 Lead dog
joe1979 11/Jun/10 Lead
JeromeT 18/May/10 Lead O/S
Birdo 15/May/10 Lead O/S
with Dave Bird
Hidden 09/May/10 2nd O/S
Dan Lane 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Cool fingerlocks and bomber gear. Move over the overlap wasn't as hard as expected.

with Catherine Elliot
Different Steve 10/Apr/10 Lead rpt
with Emma Hawkins, Martin Hore
nadeem 13/Mar/10 2nd
katyvose1 ??/2010 -
nia ??/2010 Lead
with Ben Redgate
Hidden ??/2010 Lead β
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 2nd dog
Hidden 09/Nov/09 Lead O/S
Cragrat Rich 30/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Very E0! It's everything that's good about Millstone but not long enough

Hidden 30/Oct/09 Lead
belay bunny turned bad 23/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Debbie, loundsy
Coel Hellier 22/Aug/09 Lead
Nicos 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/09 Lead
givemetea 13/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Louisa
Hidden 13/Jun/09 Lead dog
Hidden 13/Jun/09 2nd dog
LoopyLou ?/Jun/09 Lead dog

One to return for.

with Roslyn
gordonday 13/May/09 Lead rpt
with clive
Tony Holdsworth 02/May/09 2nd dog

failed to lead - tired at end of day!

with Richard White
Reaver2k 02/May/09 Lead dog

Attempted this just because it looked really awesome. Turns out its pretty hard aswell! Was fine up to the lip. Placed a pretty poor nut which I wasnt happy with, and pumped out hanging around trying to spy out the next moves. Placed a better piece above which gave me more reassurance and did hard layback/fingerlock moves, no idea what sequence I used but included quite a few fingerlocks - not my forte - and poor footholds! Ran up near the top of the crack and found a bomber fingerlock to place gear with and threw myself up and over the top! Nice, but I found it hard - as is almost always the case with well protected HVS's!

with Tom, Graeme, Michael, Andy
mel holmes 29/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Alex@home
alicia 24/Apr/09 2nd
with Thea
chris sm 24/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
Hidden 21/Sep/08 2nd O/S
masa-alpin 13/Sep/08 Lead dog
with P Luke
w.pettet-smith ?/Sep/08 Lead dnf

bastard. failed on it twice now.i reckon the bulge is well 'ard.

with claire jane carter
Claire Taylor 13/Aug/08 2nd O/S
tom 04/Aug/08 Lead
with Dan Leach
Hidden ?/Aug/08 -
Rob Davies ?/Jul/08 2nd
with Phil Ashton
cem 15/Jun/08 Lead dog

1 rest

mattyork2 07/Jun/08 2nd
petellis 07/Jun/08 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 25/May/08 Lead O/S
with Joe
Hidden 24/May/08 2nd O/S
ksjs 24/May/08 Lead O/S

good fun

Oli 21/May/08 Lead O/S
with Stu
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 18/May/08 Lead O/S
hawkins321 22/Mar/08 Lead rpt
with rosie atkinson
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Sean Kelly ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
mattwyles1 ??/2008 Lead
Hidden 15/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/07 2nd
Hidden 27/Jun/07 Lead O/S
wilchivs 26/Jun/07 2nd
with Dave Ripley
Hidden 26/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Mark Walter 26/Jun/07 2nd
with Jon Bleiker
Cardi 26/Jun/07 2nd
with Ben D
Hidden 02/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/May/07 Lead O/S
doug s 29/Apr/07 2nd
with mike
AJ007 26/Apr/07 2nd
with Dan
dan gibson 26/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with AJ
Brian Rodgers 22/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Ian Bruce
Mark_RMC 31/Mar/07 Lead

An E1 up a thin crack in the wall. Andy started the lead, but backed off at the bulge. After some quite exciting air miles, I managed to finish the climb.

with Andy Redhead
Hidden 14/Jan/07 Lead
Hidden 20/Dec/06 2nd dog
Hidden ?/Dec/06 Lead
Hidden 26/Nov/06 2nd dnf
Hidden 16/Sep/06 Lead dnf
Different Steve 23/Jul/06 Lead dog

What a battle! - and I've still got to go back and do it clean...

with Pete Krug
Alex Mason 24/Jun/06 Lead O/S

good route soft at E1 but quite sustained good little practice.

with mick radford
Hidden 26/Mar/06 Lead dog
Hopevalleypaul 10/Jul/05 2nd

with Henry F
Hidden 03/Jun/05 Lead rpt
Mark Riley ?/Apr/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2005 2nd
Hidden ??/2005 -
shark 01/Sep/04 Lead
with Jon Winter
DorsetGareth 01/Jun/03 Lead O/S
shoulders 16/Mar/03 Lead
with nathan
Hidden 23/May/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Mar/02 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2002 -
Andy S ?/Aug/01 Lead dog
martroberts 01/Jun/01 Lead O/S

amnesia onsight - seconded 4 years previously

skygodley 19/May/01 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/01 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/01 Lead
Carl Smethurst 08/Oct/00 Lead O/S
with Ian Pickles
Hidden 11/Mar/00 Lead
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Dave
ArnaudG ??/1999 -
Phill Mitch ??/1999 Lead O/S
Roget 12/Oct/97 Lead rpt
with Derek Beetlestone, jon
Hidden ??/1997 Lead
adam carless ??/1997 2nd O/S
with uni club
BruceW ??/1996 Lead dog
John Southworth ??/1995 -
Chris Ellis 31/Jul/94 Lead
with Rachel Nicolson
Neil R 15/Jun/94 2nd
with Richard W
Hidden 28/Jul/93 Lead
Chris the Tall ?/Jun/93 TR

Think we'd both failed to lead it

with Bill G
IanD353 ?/Jun/93 Lead O/S
AlanLittle ??/1993 2nd
with Robert Clark
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
John Marsland 05/Sep/92 2nd
with Dave Soles
jamiev ?/Jun/92 2nd β
with Karl
Hidden 31/May/92 2nd O/S
craig d ??/1992 -
Hidden 14/Jul/91 Lead
Hidden 09/Jul/91 2nd dog
leathers 18/May/91 Lead O/S
with Ron Caves
Hidden ?/Apr/90 Lead
NickJH ?/Apr/90 Lead
with D Townsend
Nick Rundall ??/1990 Lead O/S
John Marsland 02/Aug/89 2nd
with Neil Bulloch
babymoac 16/Jul/89 2nd
with Alan S
NickJH ?/May/89 Lead O/S
with D Townsend
Hidden 26/Apr/89 Lead
Rob Davies 25/Apr/87 2nd
steve taylor ??/1987 Lead
Hidden 17/Aug/86 2nd O/S
Billg 21/May/86 Lead O/S
with Nigel Slater
Chris Ellis 19/Apr/86 2nd
with John Kirk
Mike Owen 18/Sep/85 -
with Simon King
Alan James - UKC and UKH 28/Aug/85 Lead
with Si Gee
Simon2005 ??/1985 TR
GordonHart ??/1985 2nd O/S
with Kevin
shark 21/Jun/84 Lead dog
with Tim & Andy
Andy Fielding ??/1984 2nd
with Steve Hartland
Tom V ??/1984 -
Hidden 20/Jun/82 Lead
Ian Jones ??/1982 Lead
with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc
mark-abz 18/Sep/81 Lead
with Richard O
Nic Robinson 04/Jul/81 Solo O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/81 Lead
Hammy 17/Apr/81 Lead
with Jonathon Stacey
Hammy 02/Nov/80 Lead
with Rob Lawson
Robmwatt ??/1980 -
Robmwatt ??/1980 -
Mark Kemball 04/Oct/78 Solo
Al Evans ??/1976 -
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC ??/1975 -
mikej 23/Jan/66 Lead dog

A1 aid version

with Keith Fairburn
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
CJSuttz, mapperley samurai, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hoyes, Hidden, virgil, Hidden, Batt, Michael Hood, Hidden, peppermill, Hidden, PanzerHanzler, Albie
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 76
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 68
Votes cast 58
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set