South Yorkshire > Millstone Edge >
 
Lorica* VS 4c

Adjacent Climbs
<< Sex Dwarves
 
Cake Walk >>
[Lorica, 2 kb]20m. Climb the grubby crack near the right edge of the slab (or better via Great Slab) and the short but gripping curving flake above - who says it is detached? Finish up the short crack. © ROCKFAX

Photo: Lorica © Jamie
Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 128 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Nice moves over the flake. Don't bother with the normal Great Slab route. Do this with the Great Slab start.
cdpuk - 2nd O/S - 31/May/14 with Bernhard Lozowski, Andrew Evans

Do great slab first as the right side is dull. Good jams/laybacks on crux though!
andyevans - 2nd - 31/May/14 with cdpuk

Bernie L - Lead O/S - 31/May/14 with Chris Peka

WOW! Hard, definitely the hardest route I've ever lead clean. But awesome stuff. It's all about the top section. I'd recommend the Great Slab start as this combines the best bits of both routes. I did the regular start (Stevie having previously lead great slab). This start is basically a 15m, thin, grubby, unprotected slab climb. I ended up following the arete rather than the true line of the crack and got a side runner in the crack to the right of the arete. The top section is what it is all about though. I did a bit of yo-yoing before i managed to work out the moves. There is a really nice left facing layback crack right next to the bottom of the flake, i went up this first, got my left foot on the good hold and rocked over, transfering to the flake but then I was a bit stuck. Decent holds for my right arm and left foot but nothing for my left arm and a sloping hold for my right foot meant i felt like i was going to barndoor if I committed to the move. i downclimbed to the ledge and had a couple more attempts. In my final and sucessfull attempt i stayed in the good layback crack till higher and then, keeping my body to the right got a jam in the bottom of the flake. This allowed me to get my left foot on the sloping hold and step my right up to the crucial right food hold. However just before i got my right on, my left foot slipped and i cut loose, somehow I managed to hold myself on the two jams i had and re-place my feet. I then thugged my way to the top of the flake and did the worlds most inelegant desperate mantleshelf/bellyflop to gain the ledge on top of the flake. The rest of the route was straightforward.
SuperLee1985 - Lead O/S - 05/May/14 with simon gale, stevie lee

StevieLee - 2nd dog - May/14 with Simon Gale, Lee Cammann

Combined with the Great Slab start, makes a well worthwhile climb. The layback is fine once you get into it, it was just getting the right foot up that caused problems.
treg - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/13 with Bird

Laybacking up the flake felt very off balance, maybe not the ideal warmup route. Very nice otherwise!
GermanAlex - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/13 with Robby

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Sep/13

chrisbussell - Lead - 03/Sep/13 with Tim O'Neill

therat - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/13

gavster - 2nd - 14/Jul/13 with kev

nickosteo - Lead O/S - Jul/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead - 09/Jun/13

ajc - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Morri

This is well worthwhile route, just for the flake bit. Better than many routes that get stars in the guide books. Finish is a bit grotty but you can't have it all.
djones66 - 2nd O/S - 26/May/13 with Stve mc D

Al Urker - 2nd - 17/May/13

RossT - Lead - 17/May/13 with Tim Bee

beth.westonhoward - 2nd - 28/Apr/13 with Verity Cross

fantastic delicate but bold move when changing layback diretion and tiptoeing up the small footholds
hlegge - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/13 with Beth Howard

Hidden - Lead dog - 28/Apr/13

pbuggy91 - Lead dog - 21/Apr/13

Had to go on rope to get cam out. Think would of got otherwise.
tsl42 - 2nd dog - 21/Apr/13 with Pete MUMC

kitkat78 - 2nd O/S - 20/Apr/13 with SteveM

SteveM - Lead - 20/Apr/13 with Kat

Jake Young - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/13 with Laura

lbarras - 2nd dog - 17/Apr/13 with jake

Mongoose - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/12 with Katharina Gers-Barlag

Hidden - Lead - 09/Sep/12

taff raymond - Lead - 09/Sep/12

First part of Great Slab, then across for the good bit of Lorica.
Binder - 2nd O/S - 18/Aug/12 with Khalid Q

Started on Great Slab - excellent then moved over to Lorica. Had to down climb once to do the flake but got there in the end!
khalidq - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/12 with George Margesson

Nigel Bond - 2nd - 09/Aug/12 with Bern Hardman

There was me faffing around, failing to make the hard bit's gear easy to deal with and then Mol just stormed it, landing on the ledge with a grin.
adi bryant - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/12 with Molly-George

Cool and intimidating bit of lay backing but on bomber gear
Deezel65 - Lead O/S - 28/May/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/May/12

Hidden - 2nd - 26/May/12

Fragmod - Lead - 13/May/12

The flake is all bark and no bite- once you can reach to the top or the back, basically a pullup. Wiped out on the slab as my first move. Smooth. Knees still hate me for wearing shorts.
AlexKervyn - 2nd RP - 13/May/12

nrhardy - Lead O/S - 17/Mar/12 with paul29uk

3rd
the power - 2nd - 17/Mar/12 with paul29uk

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Mar/12

CSmithy - Lead O/S - 2012

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Sep/11

Oceanic - 28/Aug/11

lozowen - Lead - 01/Jul/11 with Chris Howard

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 04/Jun/11

Danny Boy Dunbar - 2nd - 18/Sep/10 with Dave Gleave, Danny Bucknole

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/10

via Great Slab then traversed onto flake. Flake needs the right approach & balance, backed down a few steps for rest after placing gear then led. A stiff VS.
john_ni - Lead dog - 03/Jul/10 with Bryan Lewis

Great Slab with Lorica finish.
hellboundblr - 2nd - 03/Jul/10 with John Bayliss

hard for the grade - great route!
MikaelW - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Jo

Hard start. Only 2 places for marginal protection high up at the start and almost non-existant "holds" on he slab start. Satisfying to complete but would have been very scary leading it!
RockaJo - 2nd dog - 05/Jun/10 with Mikael

Jonathan Hall - Solo - 04/Jun/10

Anthony mccourt - 2nd β - 23/May/10

Anthony mccourt - 2nd β - 23/May/10

smolders - Lead O/S - 15/May/10 with Phil G

The flake was tough to work out but the moves were nice once I had
philgeorge999 - 2nd dog - 15/May/10 with Martin Oldham

Hidden - Lead rpt - 06/May/10

Wet and Dirty and Wet
tomthecoolperson - 2nd - 06/May/10 with Andrew

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Apr/10

The start of this is fairly straight forward, the flake section however is something else. Well protected but very committing, and a lot of fun. quite a pumpy series of moves to climb the flake and get on top. Once you have the climbing is thankfully straightforward again. compared to other VS climbs, including at Millstone this is high in the grade. A good intro to HVS routes.
matt.jj - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Apr/10

gripping crux
Dave Mahon - 2nd - Apr/10 with Matt Jackson

Oliver Houston - 2nd - 19/Mar/10

Ollie B - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/10

katyvose1 - 2010

tjhare1 - 2010

smallerrich - Solo O/S - 12/Sep/09 with Ollie Wragg

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/09

Also did the Great Slab start with traverse right to Lorica flake. A worthy route in its own right and a little bit easier than the direct route, which is a (hard) VS, although not HVS!
ebf - 2nd O/S - 05/Sep/09 with Paul Stephenson

stevepotter - Lead - 28/Jun/09 with ken

Oceanic - 26/Apr/09

psronan - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/08

slacky - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/08 with Gary

Did Great Slab start and traversed R to Lorica crux.
JohnHutch - 2nd - 20/Jun/08 with HC, SC, L

roberto18 - 2nd - 15/May/08 with Dad (Mike Bridges)

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Sean Kelly - 2008

PanzerHanzler - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/07 with Martin Hore

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Jun/07

Nice route, with a great move up the flake, found hard compared to previous VS routes but plenty of gear about.
Eccentric - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/07 with Bunchuk

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Apr/07

Hidden - Lead - 30/Sep/06

andybeanland - 2nd O/S - 23/Sep/06 with Graham Withers

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - Sep/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/06

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Aug/06

greg101 - Lead - 29/Jul/06 with Matt O'Connor

liamoloughlin - Lead - Jun/06

Sidekick - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/06

sdht - 2006

Adam Potter - 2nd - 11/May/05

Hidden - 2nd - 2005

Smelly Fox - Solo O/S - 03/Aug/04

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - 2nd O/S - 16/Sep/03 with Steve Clark

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/02

cem - 2nd - 18/Jul/02 with Rod Strachan

DerwentDiluted - Lead - 08/Jul/02

Hidden - 2002

tuftynick - Lead - 2000

marcoleptic - Lead O/S - 2000 with Banjo

ArnaudG - 1999

Phill Mitch - Lead O/S - 1999

cragspud - Lead O/S - 1998

Sometime in the 90's
BruceW - Lead O/S - 1997

thinair48 - 1995

craig d - 1992

Chris Ellis - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/91 with Paul Farmer

tapley - Lead - 01/Oct/89

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/86

steve prior - Lead - Aug/86 with Paul L

Ian Clare - 1986

Neil R - 2nd - 02/Jun/85

andy gittins - 1985

Tom V - 1984

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 28/Mar/82

Ian Jones - Lead - 1982 with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc

babymoac - Lead - 13/Jun/81 with MTW

Ghastly Rubberfeet - Lead - 1981

mark-abz - Lead - 16/Sep/80 with Rob S

Andy Fielding - 2nd - 1980

JohnHutch - 2nd - 27/May/78 with BA

Mark Kemball - Lead - 09/May/78 with Sarah Bridge

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Jun/77

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/77

Al Evans - 1976

Jonathan Lagoe - UKC - Lead - 1974

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
alp79, Hidden, SuperLee1985, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 72
hard HVS0 of 26
HVS0 of 26
easy HVS1 of 26
hard VS8 of 26
VS17 of 26
easy VS0 of 26
hard HS0 of 26
HS0 of 26
easy HS0 of 26
hard 5a0 of 25
5a0 of 25
easy 5a1 of 25
hard 4c19 of 25
4c5 of 25
easy 4c0 of 25
hard 4b0 of 25
4b0 of 25
easy 4b0 of 25
3 Stars0 of 21
2 Stars15 of 21
1 Star6 of 21
0 Stars0 of 21
Bag of .....0 of 21
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed4 of 128 (3.1%)
Lead62 of 128 (48.4%)
Followed47 of 128 (36.7%)
Alt Leads1 of 128 (0.8%)
Unknown14 of 128 (10.9%)

'Climbed'66 of 128 (51.6%)
clean O/S49 of 128 (38.3%)
clean β2 of 128 (1.6%)
clean rpt1 of 128 (0.8%)
clean RP1 of 128 (0.8%)
dogged8 of 128 (6.2%)
dnf1 of 128 (0.8%)