Nice moves over the flake. Don't bother with the normal Great Slab route. Do this with the Great Slab start.cdpuk - 2nd O/S - 31/May/14 with Bernhard Lozowski, Andrew Evans
Do great slab first as the right side is dull. Good jams/laybacks on crux though!
andyevans - 2nd - 31/May/14 with cdpuk
Bernie L - Lead O/S - 31/May/14 with Chris Peka
WOW! Hard, definitely the hardest route I've ever lead clean. But awesome stuff. It's all about the top section. I'd recommend the Great Slab start as this combines the best bits of both routes.
I did the regular start (Stevie having previously lead great slab). This start is basically a 15m, thin, grubby, unprotected slab climb. I ended up following the arete rather than the true line of the crack and got a side runner in the crack to the right of the arete.
The top section is what it is all about though.
I did a bit of yo-yoing before i managed to work out the moves. There is a really nice left facing layback crack right next to the bottom of the flake, i went up this first, got my left foot on the good hold and rocked over, transfering to the flake but then I was a bit stuck. Decent holds for my right arm and left foot but nothing for my left arm and a sloping hold for my right foot meant i felt like i was going to barndoor if I committed to the move. i downclimbed to the ledge and had a couple more attempts.
In my final and sucessfull attempt i stayed in the good layback crack till higher and then, keeping my body to the right got a jam in the bottom of the flake. This allowed me to get my left foot on the sloping hold and step my right up to the crucial right food hold. However just before i got my right on, my left foot slipped and i cut loose, somehow I managed to hold myself on the two jams i had and re-place my feet. I then thugged my way to the top of the flake and did the worlds most inelegant desperate mantleshelf/bellyflop to gain the ledge on top of the flake. The rest of the route was straightforward.
SuperLee1985 - Lead O/S - 05/May/14 with simon gale, stevie lee
StevieLee - 2nd dog - May/14 with Simon Gale, Lee Cammann
Combined with the Great Slab start, makes a well worthwhile climb. The layback is fine once you get into it, it was just getting the right foot up that caused problems.
treg - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/13 with Bird
Laybacking up the flake felt very off balance, maybe not the ideal warmup route. Very nice otherwise!
GermanAlex - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/13 with Robby
Hidden - 2nd - 18/Sep/13
chrisbussell - Lead - 03/Sep/13 with Tim O'Neill
therat - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/13
gavster - 2nd - 14/Jul/13 with kev
nickosteo - Lead O/S - Jul/13
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/13
Hidden - Lead - 09/Jun/13
ajc - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Morri
This is well worthwhile route, just for the flake bit. Better than many routes that get stars in the guide books. Finish is a bit grotty but you can't have it all.
djones66 - 2nd O/S - 26/May/13 with Stve mc D
Al Urker - 2nd - 17/May/13
RossT - Lead - 17/May/13 with Tim Bee
beth.westonhoward - 2nd - 28/Apr/13 with Verity Cross
fantastic delicate but bold move when changing layback diretion and tiptoeing up the small footholds
hlegge - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/13 with Beth Howard
Hidden - Lead dog - 28/Apr/13
pbuggy91 - Lead dog - 21/Apr/13
Had to go on rope to get cam out. Think would of got otherwise.
tsl42 - 2nd dog - 21/Apr/13 with Pete MUMC
kitkat78 - 2nd O/S - 20/Apr/13 with SteveM
SteveM - Lead - 20/Apr/13 with Kat
Jake Young - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/13 with Laura
lbarras - 2nd dog - 17/Apr/13 with jake
Mongoose - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/12 with Katharina Gers-Barlag
Hidden - Lead - 09/Sep/12
taff raymond - Lead - 09/Sep/12
First part of Great Slab, then across for the good bit of Lorica.
Binder - 2nd O/S - 18/Aug/12 with Khalid Q
Started on Great Slab - excellent then moved over to Lorica. Had to down climb once to do the flake but got there in the end!
khalidq - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/12 with George Margesson
Nigel Bond - 2nd - 09/Aug/12 with Bern Hardman
There was me faffing around, failing to make the hard bit's gear easy to deal with and then Mol just stormed it, landing on the ledge with a grin.
adi bryant - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/12 with Molly-George
Cool and intimidating bit of lay backing but on bomber gear
Deezel65 - Lead O/S - 28/May/12
Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/May/12
Hidden - 2nd - 26/May/12
Fragmod - Lead - 13/May/12
The flake is all bark and no bite- once you can reach to the top or the back, basically a pullup. Wiped out on the slab as my first move. Smooth. Knees still hate me for wearing shorts.
AlexKervyn - 2nd RP - 13/May/12
nrhardy - Lead O/S - 17/Mar/12 with paul29uk
the power - 2nd - 17/Mar/12 with paul29uk
Hidden - 2nd - 17/Mar/12
CSmithy - Lead O/S - 2012
Hidden - 2nd - 11/Sep/11
Oceanic - 28/Aug/11
lozowen - Lead - 01/Jul/11 with Chris Howard
Hidden - 2nd dnf - 04/Jun/11
Danny Boy Dunbar - 2nd - 18/Sep/10 with Dave Gleave, Danny Bucknole
Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/10
via Great Slab then traversed onto flake. Flake needs the right approach & balance, backed down a few steps for rest after placing gear then led. A stiff VS.
john_ni - Lead dog - 03/Jul/10 with Bryan Lewis
Great Slab with Lorica finish.
hellboundblr - 2nd - 03/Jul/10 with John Bayliss
hard for the grade - great route!
MikaelW - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Jo
Hard start. Only 2 places for marginal protection high up at the start and almost non-existant "holds" on he slab start. Satisfying to complete but would have been very scary leading it!
RockaJo - 2nd dog - 05/Jun/10 with Mikael
Jonathan Hall - Solo - 04/Jun/10
Anthony mccourt - 2nd β - 23/May/10
Anthony mccourt - 2nd β - 23/May/10
smolders - Lead O/S - 15/May/10 with Phil G
The flake was tough to work out but the moves were nice once I had
philgeorge999 - 2nd dog - 15/May/10 with Martin Oldham
Hidden - Lead rpt - 06/May/10
Wet and Dirty and Wet
tomthecoolperson - 2nd - 06/May/10 with Andrew
Hidden - 2nd - 25/Apr/10
The start of this is fairly straight forward, the flake section however is something else. Well protected but very committing, and a lot of fun. quite a pumpy series of moves to climb the flake and get on top. Once you have the climbing is thankfully straightforward again. compared to other VS climbs, including at Millstone this is high in the grade. A good intro to HVS routes.
matt.jj - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Apr/10
Dave Mahon - 2nd - Apr/10 with Matt Jackson
Oliver Houston - 2nd - 19/Mar/10
Ollie B - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/10
katyvose1 - 2010
tjhare1 - 2010
smallerrich - Solo O/S - 12/Sep/09 with Ollie Wragg
Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/09
Also did the Great Slab start with traverse right to Lorica flake. A worthy route in its own right and a little bit easier than the direct route, which is a (hard) VS, although not HVS!
ebf - 2nd O/S - 05/Sep/09 with Paul Stephenson
stevepotter - Lead - 28/Jun/09 with ken
Oceanic - 26/Apr/09
psronan - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/08
slacky - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/08 with Gary
Did Great Slab start and traversed R to Lorica crux.
JohnHutch - 2nd - 20/Jun/08 with HC, SC, L
roberto18 - 2nd - 15/May/08 with Dad (Mike Bridges)
daveagriff - Lead - 2008
Sean Kelly - 2008
PanzerHanzler - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/07 with Martin Hore
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Jun/07
Nice route, with a great move up the flake, found hard compared to previous VS routes but plenty of gear about.
Eccentric - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/07 with Bunchuk
Hidden - 2nd - 07/Apr/07
Hidden - Lead - 30/Sep/06
andybeanland - 2nd O/S - 23/Sep/06 with Graham Withers
dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - Sep/06
Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/06
Hidden - 2nd - 27/Aug/06
greg101 - Lead - 29/Jul/06 with Matt O'Connor
liamoloughlin - Lead - Jun/06
Sidekick - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/06
sdht - 2006
Adam Potter - 2nd - 11/May/05
Hidden - 2nd - 2005
Smelly Fox - Solo O/S - 03/Aug/04
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - 2nd O/S - 16/Sep/03 with Steve Clark
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/02
cem - 2nd - 18/Jul/02 with Rod Strachan
DerwentDiluted - Lead - 08/Jul/02
Hidden - 2002
tuftynick - Lead - 2000
marcoleptic - Lead O/S - 2000 with Banjo
ArnaudG - 1999
Phill Mitch - Lead O/S - 1999
cragspud - Lead O/S - 1998
Sometime in the 90's
BruceW - Lead O/S - 1997
thinair48 - 1995
craig d - 1992
Chris Ellis - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/91 with Paul Farmer
tapley - Lead - 01/Oct/89
Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/86
steve prior - Lead - Aug/86
Ian Clare - 1986
Neil R - 2nd - 02/Jun/85
andy gittins - 1985
Tom V - 1984
Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 28/Mar/82
Ian Jones - Lead - 1982 with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc
babymoac - Lead - 13/Jun/81 with MTW
Ghastly Rubberfeet - Lead - 1981
mark-abz - Lead - 16/Sep/80 with Rob S
Andy Fielding - 2nd - 1980
JohnHutch - 2nd - 27/May/78 with BA
Mark Kemball - Lead - 09/May/78 with Sarah Bridge
Hidden - 2nd - 09/Jun/77
Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/77
Al Evans - 1976
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC - Lead - 1974