South Yorkshire > Millstone Edge >
 
Eros* E1 5b

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[dave kenyon eros millstone derbyshire 1977, 3 kb]14m. Low in the grade, the steep crack in the left wall of the bay has good holds and runners though some of the rock is a bit suspect. Finish with care. © ROCKFAX
FFA. Paul Grayson 1969

Ticklists: Millstone HVS's.

Photo: dave kenyon eros millstone derbyshire 1977 © brian cropper
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 264 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead - 18/Jul/14

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Jul/14

Robb Bert - 13/Jul/14

clukins - Jul/14

Hidden - Lead - 18/Jun/14

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - 17/Jun/14

George.nunn1993 - 2nd O/S - Jun/14 with rich man

Looked dry from below but top crack and surrounding holds sopping wet after a week of poor weather. Next time...
cdpuk - Lead dog - 31/May/14 with Bernhard Lozowski, Andrew Evans

Pumpy, couldn't figure out the traverse and got caught taking out a cam for ages. Top was also wet.
andyevans - 2nd - 31/May/14 with cdpuk

Bernie L - 2nd O/S - 31/May/14 with Chris Peka

Great holds and decent rests.
Julian Lane - 2nd O/S - 21/May/14 with Mynydd Andy Hardy

999thAndy - 2nd O/S - 21/May/14

Hoyes - Lead O/S - 21/May/14 with Andy H, Julian L

WillDoyle - Lead - 15/May/14

the power - Lead rpt - 14/May/14 with rob

Wow! Felt harder today. How did I ever lead this clean?
treg - 2nd rpt - 14/May/14 with Tim L

Horn
the power - Lead O/S - 04/May/14 with admackie, chris

Failed to lead
Neil R - 2nd - 03/May/14 with Ian

Hidden - 2nd - 03/May/14

rich.manterfield - Lead O/S - May/14 with George Nunn

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Apr/14

Cake - 2nd O/S - 14/Apr/14

sann1458 - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/14 with Owen Smith

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/14

jshields - 2nd - 29/Mar/14 with Jeff Ingman

Shauna - Lead rpt - 09/Mar/14 with Jules

robgixer - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/14

Pumpy but not really any particularly hard moves
Jack93 - Lead O/S - 30/Nov/13 with Tom Parkin

gavinpeach - 2nd O/S - 16/Nov/13 with David Sherratt

mop449 - Lead dnf - 16/Nov/13 with Jimbo

Thinker01 - Lead O/S - 09/Nov/13 with Kev Stott

Great fun, got a bit pumped at the mid point.
MischaHY - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/13

snapperdan - TR - 03/Sep/13

chrisbussell - 2nd - 03/Sep/13 with Tim O'Neill

cragtyke - 2nd - 25/Aug/13 with john g

rich_hw - Lead rpt - 15/Aug/13 with John_PCC

john lynch - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/13 with Ant King

aking12 - 2nd O/S - 09/Aug/13 with john lynch

WillDoyle - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/13 with Mike

Sam Simpson - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/13 with Tom Doldon

mark4344 - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/13 with Andreas

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/13

Dptidman - 2nd - 30/Jun/13 with Nick Blackburn

Hidden - Lead - 16/Jun/13

A good little route
climberchristy - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/13 with Ben Cole

slacky - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/13 with Ben

petegruf - 2nd - 06/Jun/13 with patrick h

alp79 - 2nd - 01/Jun/13 with Sam Fletcher

Hidden - Lead rpt - 01/Jun/13

ashtond6 - 2nd rpt - 01/Jun/13

alp79 - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Sam Fletcher

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/May/13

tough lower section just keeps going.
dr_botnik - Lead dog - 28/Apr/13 with Phil Taylor

Fragmod - Lead - 21/Apr/13

Had to stop for some gear but would of got it otherwise.
tsl42 - 2nd dog - 21/Apr/13 with Pete MUMC, Gaz Hooson

very sustained. just when you think it is over there is more climbing.
nigel pearson - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Robin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/13

Jake Young - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/13 with Laura

lbarras - 2nd O/S - 17/Apr/13 with jake

Hidden - Lead - 2013

Hidden - 2nd - 2013

ashtond6 - Lead rpt - 10/Nov/12

An excellent well protected climb with great moves from start to finish Should be 2 or even 3 stars.Top end HVS rather than E1
andybirtwistle - Lead - 21/Oct/12

Colin Scotchford - Lead - 06/Oct/12

Bushra Sim - 2nd - 06/Oct/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/12

chrism225 - Lead - 23/Sep/12 with Wendy, tom

Hidden - Lead β - 23/Sep/12

ashtond6 - Lead - 08/Sep/12

nice big holds and fun moves, only down side is the few loose sounding pieces of rock. gear can be placed in solid rock which is good
Olli-C - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/12 with Nige S, Rachel Slater

Rachel Slater - 2nd O/S - 07/Sep/12 with Nigel Slater, Olli Crudge

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 01/Sep/12

Fragmod - 2nd - 16/Aug/12

Felt tough for HVS but never e1 (compare it to dexterity!)nice climb though
catblack - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/12 with Skippy

chrisbussell - Lead - 17/Jul/12 with Tim O'Neill

Graeme Hammond - 2nd rpt - 11/Jul/12 with Pete Wimbush

First clean E1 (Rockfax - I'm having it) lead. Very enjoyable and having previously led plexity, I felt well prepared for the pull up into the final finger jamming crack.
treg - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/12 with Lynsey

Hidden - Lead rpt - 25/Jun/12

pmurdy - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/12 with Mike W

mwatson - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/12

Solid lead by James. Found it pumpy at the top after wasting time trying to extract the stuck cam!
Mr. K - 2nd O/S - 23/May/12 with James Oswald

really nice soft e1. the moves through the bulge are really nice, shame about the slightly soft rock.
James Oswald - Lead O/S - 23/May/12 with Kyle Wood

Unsuccessfully tried to extraxt the stuck cam.
Matt Cooke - 2nd dog - 20/May/12 with Rosh

Obi-Wan is lost... - Lead - 12/May/12 with Calum

Tony Holdsworth - Lead rpt - 06/May/12 with Nick Mitchell

climb the peak - 2nd - 12/Apr/12

Pumpy!
Brannock - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/12

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Mar/12

biobuild - 2nd - 29/Mar/12 with Mark wood

First E1 of the year, red hot, climbing with shirts off on a Tue evening in March! Not too technical but pretty sustained.
marcoleptic - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/12 with Andy Shep

climbing_rocks1983 - 2nd O/S - 24/Mar/12 with Ruth, Kieran, Petey

pie_eater_pete - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/12

bwestwood - 2nd - 20/Mar/12 with pete sargeant

As good as I remember.
Dave Foster - Lead rpt - 18/Mar/12 with Robin

robin_hackney - 2nd rpt - 18/Mar/12 with Dave Foster

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Mar/12

rope from top as didnt have big enough gear(>3 friend, just a bad/unseen 3 friend for the break before it goes left
CRiddiford - Lead dog - 19/Feb/12 with Darren

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Kevster - Lead O/S - 2012

JaseSSDD - 2nd - 20/Nov/11 with Ian Barker

At Last!
DanC1985 - Lead O/S - 30/Oct/11 with Martin

MartinWilliams87 - 2nd O/S - 24/Sep/11 with Richard Williams

JYates - Lead - 24/Sep/11 with Lawrence Ramsey

Hidden - Lead - 19/Sep/11

Ollie B - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/11 with S.Bennett

Hok 3 rests. Me 2. Ed none ! Excellent route - would like to go back and lead once I am leading E1 again.
Alaric - TR dog - 11/Sep/11 with Hok, Ed

hellboundblr - 2nd - 29/Aug/11 with Jon Stewart

Colin Scotchford - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/11

danoflynn - 2nd O/S - 27/Jul/11 with Phil Shorten

Coel Hellier - Lead - 09/Jul/11

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Jul/11

shouter - 2nd - 06/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead dog - 03/Jul/11

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Jun/11

Guy Wilson - 16/Jun/11 with Andy Wardle, Gavin Moy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/11

robin_hackney - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11 with Paul Hackney

chrism225 - 2nd O/S - 25/May/11 with Sheffield Polly

Hidden - 2nd - 19/May/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/May/11

ojp - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/11 with Si

cragtyke - 2nd - 22/Apr/11 with gareth h, john g

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/11

Definitely HVS not E1 as far as I could tell. Pretty good rout though.
Shauna - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/11 with Jules

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11

Wussed out running it out to the big ledge, down climbed then got on with it. Good climb just generally a bit thuggy
jmjw - Lead dog - 03/Apr/11 with Dan P

Hidden - 2nd β - 20/Mar/11

Good juggy climbing
mark20 - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/11

mwatson - 2011

PAJames - 2011

Did not enjoy despite positive finger locks on bottom section.
Ahab - Lead dog - Dec/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/10

Guy Atkinson - 2nd dog - 12/Oct/10 with Ben Dorey

Tony Holdsworth - Lead rpt - 25/Sep/10 with Ian Holtby

holters - 2nd - 25/Sep/10

Graeme Hammond - Lead rpt - 20/Sep/10 with Richard Williams

Abevan - 2nd - 05/Sep/10 with james walker

Jim Slater - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/10 with Graeme

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Sep/10

Graeme Hammond - 2nd rpt - 01/Sep/10 with Jim

And Hannah
migs493 - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Haydn

haydng - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Mike, Hannah

Great route whatever the grade. Beware the very first flake, cams make it move, a lot!
Jonathan Hall - Lead - 17/Aug/10 with Rob Middleton

Hidden - Lead - 09/Aug/10

matt_ringrose - 2nd - 08/Aug/10 with Matt Harding

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/10

Simon_Letman - 2nd - 25/Jul/10

nai - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/10 with Tim

tlr - 2nd - 19/Jun/10 with Pom

lamma_hippie - 2nd - 21/May/10 with Jon Lawton

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 28/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/10

alright, until the jamming crack high up, that is too small for hand but too big for finger jamming...
Dan Lane - 2nd O/S - 10/Apr/10 with Norm Gilman

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Apr/10

Adam Potter - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/10

Seymore Butt - 2010

katyvose1 - 2010

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Nov/09

Sankey - 2nd - 27/Sep/09 with Luke

Great knee-bar for a hands free rest :-)
slacky - Lead rpt - 15/Sep/09

Almost fell off on the final finger jamming crack near the top. Feet slipped, but somehow caught myself on two finger locks and regained the footholds.
Ant Man Bee - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/09 with Charles Moreton

cem - 2nd rpt - 12/Sep/09 with Paul Bolton

tatz45 - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/09 with Katy Vose

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/09

garywong - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/09 with Gareth Hall

GarethHall - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/09 with Gary Wong

nathanlee - 2nd β - Jul/09

DanC1985 - TR O/S - Jul/09

Damaged hand
DanC1985 - 2nd O/S - Jul/09

DavidR - 2nd O/S - 14/Jun/09 with Holly Adamthwaite

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/09

Hidden - 2nd - 30/May/09

Hetty - 24/May/09

Rested on rope twice to use both hands to retrieve rested on gear. Fancy this route as a lead though as I could climb the moves ok.
teflonpete - 2nd dog - 24/May/09 with Alex

Tony Holdsworth - Lead O/S - 23/May/09 with Peter Harris

Solid E1 I thought, never really hard but fairly sustained.
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 07/May/09 with Graeme

Graeme Hammond - 2nd O/S - 07/May/09 with Thomas Dixon

slacky - 2nd rpt - 06/May/09 with Owen

chris sm - 2nd O/S - 03/May/09 with Pippa Froggatt

aspyrex - 2nd dog - 02/May/09 with Tony, Richard

Diggler - 2nd O/S - 25/Apr/09 with Buddle

Dave Rumney - 25/Apr/09

alicia - 2nd - 24/Apr/09 with Thea

Hidden - Lead - 05/Apr/09

Great holds, great gear and brilliant climbing. Ran out last section for a good bit of gibber.
Dave Foster - Lead O/S - 28/Dec/08 with Andy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Oct/08

Brown - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/08 with Henry

Very tough, bottom bits were committing & top finger crack was wet which made it quite scary, respect to Chris for leading it clean.
RocknRoll - 2nd O/S - 14/Sep/08 with Chris Gooder

Sankey - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/08 with Luke

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/08

rested on the rope to remove gear.
Claire Taylor - 2nd dog - 13/Aug/08 with Chris Vanderhoven

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 25/Jun/08

joe larner - 2nd - 25/Jun/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/08

davidgent - Lead O/S - Jun/08 with Lydia

Martin Haworth - Lead rpt - 03/May/08 with Marek

Sean Kelly - 2008

mppearson - TR O/S - 2008 with alex may, carly marples

Phill Mitch - Lead O/S - 2008 with john d

Kirill - 2nd - 30/Aug/07 with Charles Moreton

cem - Lead rpt - 30/Aug/07 with Kirill Spiridonov

Joe Dove - 2nd - 12/Aug/07 with paul

PanzerHanzler - 2nd O/S - 07/Jul/07 with Martin Hore

Different Steve - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/07 with Steve Gray

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/07

Andrew Sloan - 2nd rpt - 17/Jun/07 with Richard

climbingrick - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/07

Mr Powly - 2nd rpt - Dec/06 with George Evans

cem - 2nd - 15/Oct/06 with Graham Dolman

georgeevans88 - Lead dog - Oct/06 with Tom

Enjoyable, steady E1 fare. Adventurous and varied
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/06

Hidden - Lead rpt - 28/Aug/06

Nicos - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/06 with rich howels

timharrison - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/06 with Trevor Macalonan

trevor macalonan - 2nd dog - 30/Apr/06 with pete swift

enjoyed.
Peter Swift - TR O/S - 30/Mar/06 with Trevor

Hidden - Lead - 10/Aug/05

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/05

Laramadness - 2nd - 19/Feb/04

Underrated nice climb. Pumpy thin crack finish.
LoopyLou - Lead - 2004 with Chiellie Carroll

Mark A Humphries - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/03 with Andy

Hidden - Lead - 12/Aug/02

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Jun/02

Hidden - Lead - Jun/02

Hidden - 2002

tlr - Lead - 2000

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Jul/99

ArnaudG - 1999

ChrisJD - 2nd - 1997 with rc

phardman - Lead - 04/Nov/95

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Jul/95

Neil R - Lead - 23/Jul/95 with Richard W

Hidden - Lead - 21/Apr/95

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Jul/94

Roget - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/94 with jon

Stoney Boy - 2nd O/S - 05/Jun/93 with Jim Kelly

leathers - 1993 with Charlotte Evans

NickJH - Lead O/S - May/92 with MAcari

craig d - 1992

Chris Ellis - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/91 with Paul Farmer

michael burrows - 2nd - 30/Mar/91 with tony barnett

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Jul/89

neilh - Lead - 10/May/88 with dave croker

Nick Biven - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/88 with Martyn Hannan

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/86

andy gittins - 1985

John Marsland - Lead - 05/Aug/84 with Tony Rex

Repeated on 11.6.83 via Vulcan's Variant.
Dave Musgrove - Lead - 03/Oct/82 with David

Ian Jones - Lead - 1982 with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc

ewar woowar - 1982

babymoac - Lead - 13/Jun/81 with MTW

Hidden - Lead - 15/Apr/81

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

jasper11 - 1980

jasper11 - 1980

Mark Kemball - Lead - 24/Nov/79 with Mark Brewster

Jonathan Lagoe - UKC - Lead - Aug/77 with Phil Smith

Al Evans - 1976

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
alp79, Hidden, Hidden, Ragnaar, Alaric, aretherenoneleft, PanzerHanzler

Voting
Total votes cast 191
hard E20 of 68
E20 of 68
easy E20 of 68
hard E11 of 68
E121 of 68
easy E121 of 68
hard HVS24 of 68
HVS1 of 68
easy HVS0 of 68
hard 5c0 of 65
5c0 of 65
easy 5c0 of 65
hard 5b1 of 65
5b35 of 65
easy 5b20 of 65
hard 5a9 of 65
5a0 of 65
easy 5a0 of 65
3 Stars5 of 58
2 Stars36 of 58
1 Star16 of 58
0 Stars1 of 58
Bag of .....0 of 58
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 264 (0.4%)
Lead137 of 264 (51.9%)
Followed100 of 264 (37.9%)
Toproped5 of 264 (1.9%)
Unknown21 of 264 (8.0%)

'Climbed'105 of 264 (39.8%)
clean O/S114 of 264 (43.2%)
clean β3 of 264 (1.1%)
clean rpt26 of 264 (9.8%)
dogged15 of 264 (5.7%)
dnf1 of 264 (0.4%)