Rockfax Description
Low in the grade and good, though some of the rock is a bit suspect. The steep crack has good jams and runners to a step left where a tricky finger-crack leads to a looser finish. The original finish was up the tottery wall above the prominent scar. © Rockfax

FFA. Paul Grayson 1969

Ticklists: Millstone HVS's.

ndraper1 21/Nov Lead O/S

It was absolutely freezing from the word go. Sam said it was HVS and was our 'warm up'(!). Finished off with a nice bout of hot aches near the top and shuddering belay exposed to the piercing wind. Would be a pleasure in warmer temps. Quite happy with that given the conditions!

with Sam
Hidden ?/Oct Lead O/S
Steve Vincent 19/Sep Lead
Stuart Johnston 05/Sep Lead O/S

Simply superb.

with Lara Kesterton
cem 04/Sep 2nd rpt
Gudge 04/Sep Lead O/S
GregBristol 20/Aug 2nd

Made a mess of getting gear out.

with Chris PCC
CharlieMack 03/Aug 2nd O/S
with Joe Salter
HB1 29/Jun Lead
with NH
djones66 07/Jun Lead

Really nice climb,with lots of good gear. I reckon a 2 star HVS 5a.

kermit_uk 07/Jun Lead O/S
with Michelle
drolex 03/Jun 2nd

Pulled on gear like a proper continental

with Dom
tessa teapot ?/Jun Lead

first E1 but felt like HVS

Joemanglerocks 30/May Lead
charley 30/May Lead O/S

Last climb of the day with tired shoulders and arms. Really great route. Great holds, gear and nice moves. Only felt HVS though but really good fun.

with JackD
Jackwd 30/May 2nd O/S

Great route!

TimKnight 30/May 2nd
jamesturnbull 23/May Lead
with rich howells
pete1993 11/May 2nd O/S
with Alex
amccann 11/May Lead O/S
with Pete B
hipyhop 26/Apr 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Mar 2nd rpt
Luke Brooks 20/Mar -
with Delyth
ralphio 03/Nov/14 Lead O/S

Found middle third quite sustained but plenty of rests before and after so not worth E1 in my book.

with Nik
buxtoncoffeelover 03/Nov/14 2nd
with Ralph
Hidden 26/Oct/14 2nd
alp79 11/Oct/14 2nd rpt
with Mark Proctor
Albert Exley 11/Oct/14 Lead O/S

a little loose around the top..

with Jon
Dan Vaj 02/Oct/14 Lead rpt
with Khalid
khalidq 02/Oct/14 2nd O/S
Andy Peak 1 28/Sep/14 Lead

On the powers gear

with phill ukc
the power 27/Sep/14 Lead rpt
with Andy, deacon
deacondeacon 27/Sep/14 Lead β

Led on Philips gear.

benkelsey 23/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Pumpy but soft

with Shaun Humphreys
Dan Vaj 14/Sep/14 TR O/S
with Matt payne
mark4344 14/Sep/14 2nd
with Matt Payne
simon1965 04/Sep/14 Lead rpt

Great juggy climbing with loads of gear if you can place it.

with Si Willshire
MD 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Very pumpy, better than the one star in the guide book suggested.

with Richard H
Hannes B 24/Aug/14 2nd
with Phil
Stickle Tarn 18/Aug/14 Lead dog

Heavy rain 3/4 way up and I couldn't hold on ! Lowered down to let the rock dry and completed the route after a rest. It was there for the taking !

Matt77 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Had to fight the pump at the top. Decent route, worth 2 stars I'd say.

ashtond6 16/Aug/14 Lead rpt
alp79 16/Aug/14 2nd rpt
rurp 12/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Great line, great climb not loose. Bens first e1!

with ben rowland, bill farmer
Hardcore Pat 04/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Dr Julie
jimbonfire 03/Aug/14 -
Brannock 28/Jul/14 Lead rpt
Nigel Bond 26/Jul/14 Lead
Hidden 18/Jul/14 Lead
Hidden 13/Jul/14 2nd
Robb Bert 13/Jul/14 -
clukins ?/Jul/14 -
Hidden 18/Jun/14 Lead
dannyboy83 17/Jun/14 Solo O/S
George.nunn1993 ?/Jun/14 2nd O/S
cdpuk 31/May/14 Lead dog

Looked dry from below but top crack and surrounding holds sopping wet after a week of poor weather. Next time...

andyevans 31/May/14 2nd

Pumpy, couldn't figure out the traverse and got caught taking out a cam for ages. Top was also wet.

with cdpuk
Bernie L 31/May/14 2nd O/S
Jules Lane 21/May/14 2nd O/S

Great holds and decent rests.

Andy Hardy 21/May/14 2nd O/S
Hoyes 21/May/14 Lead O/S
WillDoyle 15/May/14 Lead
the power 14/May/14 Lead rpt
with rob
treg 14/May/14 2nd rpt

Wow! Felt harder today. How did I ever lead this clean?

with Tim L
the power 04/May/14 Lead O/S


with admackie, chris
Neil R 03/May/14 2nd

Failed to lead

with Ian
Hidden 03/May/14 2nd
rich.manterfield ?/May/14 Lead O/S
with George Nunn
Hidden 19/Apr/14 2nd
Cake 14/Apr/14 2nd O/S
sann1458 14/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S
jshields 29/Mar/14 2nd
Shauna 09/Mar/14 Lead rpt
with Jules
robgixer 09/Mar/14 Lead O/S
oddtoast ??/2014 2nd dog
with Gav
mileshill540 ??/2014 Lead
Jack93 30/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Pumpy but not really any particularly hard moves

with Tom Parkin
gavinpeach 16/Nov/13 2nd O/S
Thinker01 09/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with Kev Stott
MischaHY 28/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Great fun, got a bit pumped at the mid point.

snapperdan 03/Sep/13 TR
chrisbussell 03/Sep/13 2nd
with Tim O'Neill
cragtyke 25/Aug/13 2nd
with john g
rich_hw 15/Aug/13 Lead rpt
john lynch 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Ant King
aking12 09/Aug/13 2nd O/S
WillDoyle 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Mike
Sam Simpson 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
mark4344 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Andreas
Hidden 30/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Dptidman 30/Jun/13 2nd
with Nick Blackburn
Hidden 16/Jun/13 Lead
climberchristy 16/Jun/13 Lead O/S

A good little route

with Ben Cole
Hidden 16/Jun/13 Lead O/S
petegruf 06/Jun/13 2nd
with patrick h
alp79 01/Jun/13 2nd
with Sam Fletcher
Hidden 01/Jun/13 Lead rpt
ashtond6 01/Jun/13 2nd rpt
Hidden 06/May/13 Lead O/S
dr_botnik 28/Apr/13 Lead dog

tough lower section just keeps going.

Fragmod 21/Apr/13 Lead
tsl42 21/Apr/13 2nd dog

Had to stop for some gear but would of got it otherwise.

nigel pearson 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S

very sustained. just when you think it is over there is more climbing.

with Robin
Hidden 17/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Jake Young 17/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Laura
lbarras 17/Apr/13 2nd O/S
with jake
Nevil ??/2013 Lead
with Mike
Hidden ??/2013 2nd
ashtond6 10/Nov/12 Lead rpt
andybirtwistle 21/Oct/12 Lead

An excellent well protected climb with great moves from start to finish Should be 2 or even 3 stars.Top end HVS rather than E1

Colin Scotchford 06/Oct/12 Lead
Bushra Sim 06/Oct/12 2nd
Hidden 28/Sep/12 Lead O/S
chrism225 23/Sep/12 Lead
with Wendy, tom
Hidden 23/Sep/12 Lead β
ashtond6 08/Sep/12 Lead
alp79 08/Sep/12 2nd

First E1 with Jonny

Olli-C 07/Sep/12 Lead O/S

nice big holds and fun moves, only down side is the few loose sounding pieces of rock. gear can be placed in solid rock which is good

with Nige S, Rachel Slater
Rachel Slater 07/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Nigel Slater, Olli Crudge
Hidden 01/Sep/12 2nd rpt
Fragmod 16/Aug/12 2nd
catblack 17/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Felt tough for HVS but never e1 (compare it to dexterity!)nice climb though

with Skippy
chrisbussell 17/Jul/12 Lead
with Tim O'Neill
Graeme Hammond 11/Jul/12 2nd rpt
treg 01/Jul/12 Lead O/S

First clean E1 (Rockfax - I'm having it) lead. Very enjoyable and having previously led plexity, I felt well prepared for the pull up into the final finger jamming crack.

with Lynsey
Hidden 25/Jun/12 Lead rpt
pmurdy 14/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Mike W
mwatson 14/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Mr. K 23/May/12 2nd O/S

Solid lead by James. Found it pumpy at the top after wasting time trying to extract the stuck cam!

James Oswald 23/May/12 Lead O/S

really nice soft e1. the moves through the bulge are really nice, shame about the slightly soft rock.

Matt Cooke 20/May/12 2nd dog

Unsuccessfully tried to extraxt the stuck cam.

with Rosh
Obi-Wan is lost... 12/May/12 Lead
with Calum
Tony Holdsworth 06/May/12 Lead rpt
with Nick Mitchell
climb the peak 12/Apr/12 2nd
Brannock 31/Mar/12 Lead O/S


Hidden 29/Mar/12 2nd
biobuild 29/Mar/12 2nd
marcoleptic 27/Mar/12 Lead O/S

First E1 of the year, red hot, climbing with shirts off on a Tue evening in March! Not too technical but pretty sustained.

climbing_rocks1983 24/Mar/12 2nd O/S
pie_eater_pete 21/Mar/12 Lead O/S
bwestwood 20/Mar/12 2nd
with pete sargeant
Dave Foster 18/Mar/12 Lead rpt

As good as I remember.

with Robin
robin_hackney 18/Mar/12 2nd rpt
Hidden 11/Mar/12 2nd
CRiddiford 19/Feb/12 Lead dog

rope from top as didnt have big enough gear(>3 friend, just a bad/unseen 3 friend for the break before it goes left

with Darren
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Kevster ??/2012 Lead O/S
JaseSSDD 20/Nov/11 2nd
with Ian Barker
DanC1985 30/Oct/11 Lead O/S

At Last!

with Martin
MartinWilliams87 24/Sep/11 2nd O/S
JYates 24/Sep/11 Lead
with Lawrence Ramsey
Hidden 19/Sep/11 Lead
Ollie B 18/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with S.Bennett
Alaric 11/Sep/11 TR dog

Hok 3 rests. Me 2. Ed none ! Excellent route - would like to go back and lead once I am leading E1 again.

with Hok, Ed
hellboundblr 29/Aug/11 2nd
Colin Scotchford 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/11 Lead O/S
danoflynn 27/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Phil Shorten
Coel Hellier 09/Jul/11 Lead
Hidden 07/Jul/11 2nd
shouter 06/Jul/11 2nd
Hidden 03/Jul/11 Lead dog
Hidden 28/Jun/11 2nd
Guy Wilson 16/Jun/11 -
with Andy Wardle, Gavin Moy
Hidden 14/Jun/11 Lead O/S
robin_hackney 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Paul Hackney
chrism225 25/May/11 2nd O/S
with Sheffield Polly
Hidden 19/May/11 2nd
Hidden 17/May/11 Lead O/S
ojp 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Si
cragtyke 22/Apr/11 2nd
with gareth h, john g
Hidden 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Shauna 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Definitely HVS not E1 as far as I could tell. Pretty good rout though.

with Jules
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
jmjw 03/Apr/11 Lead dog

Wussed out running it out to the big ledge, down climbed then got on with it. Good climb just generally a bit thuggy

with Dan P
Hidden 20/Mar/11 2nd β
mark20 08/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Good juggy climbing

mwatson ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
cymjt ??/2011 -
Ahab ?/Dec/10 Lead dog

Did not enjoy despite positive finger locks on bottom section.

Hidden 12/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Guy Atkinson 12/Oct/10 2nd dog
Tony Holdsworth 25/Sep/10 Lead rpt
with Ian Holtby
holters 25/Sep/10 2nd
Graeme Hammond 20/Sep/10 Lead rpt
Abevan 05/Sep/10 2nd
with james walker
Jim Slater 01/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/10 2nd
Graeme Hammond 01/Sep/10 2nd rpt
with Jim
migs493 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S

And Hannah

with Haydn
haydng 28/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Mike, Hannah
Jonathan Hall 17/Aug/10 Lead

Great route whatever the grade. Beware the very first flake, cams make it move, a lot!

Hidden 09/Aug/10 Lead
matt_ringrose 08/Aug/10 2nd
with Matt Harding
Hidden 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Simon_Letman 25/Jul/10 2nd
nai 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Tim
tlr 19/Jun/10 2nd
with Pom
lamma_hippie 21/May/10 2nd
with Jon Lawton
Hidden 28/Apr/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Dan Lane 10/Apr/10 2nd O/S

alright, until the jamming crack high up, that is too small for hand but too big for finger jamming...

Hidden 10/Apr/10 2nd
Adam Potter 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
katyvose1 ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Nov/09 Lead O/S
Sankey 27/Sep/09 2nd
with Luke
Hidden 15/Sep/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
cem 12/Sep/09 2nd rpt
tatz45 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/09 2nd O/S
garywong 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S
GarethHall 25/Jul/09 2nd O/S
nathanlee ?/Jul/09 2nd β
DanC1985 ?/Jul/09 TR O/S
DanC1985 ?/Jul/09 2nd O/S

Damaged hand

DavidR 14/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/May/09 2nd
Hetty 24/May/09 -
teflonpete 24/May/09 2nd dog

Rested on rope twice to use both hands to retrieve rested on gear. Fancy this route as a lead though as I could climb the moves ok.

with Alex
Tony Holdsworth 23/May/09 Lead O/S
with Peter Harris
thomasadixon 07/May/09 Lead O/S

Solid E1 I thought, never really hard but fairly sustained.

with Graeme
Graeme Hammond 07/May/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/May/09 2nd rpt
chris sm 03/May/09 2nd O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
aspyrex 02/May/09 2nd dog
with Tony, Richard
Diggler 25/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Buddle
Dave Rumney 25/Apr/09 -
alicia 24/Apr/09 2nd
with Thea
Hidden 05/Apr/09 Lead
Dave Foster 28/Dec/08 Lead O/S

Great holds, great gear and brilliant climbing. Ran out last section for a good bit of gibber.

with Andy
Hidden 18/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Brown 17/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Henry
RocknRoll 14/Sep/08 2nd O/S

Very tough, bottom bits were committing & top finger crack was wet which made it quite scary, respect to Chris for leading it clean.

with Chris Gooder
Sankey 30/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Luke
Hidden 28/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Claire Taylor 13/Aug/08 2nd dog

rested on the rope to remove gear.

Hidden 25/Jun/08 2nd rpt
joe larner 25/Jun/08 2nd
Hidden 25/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/08 Lead O/S
MikeDowsett 04/Jun/08 2nd
with Jeff Ingman
davidgent ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Lydia
Martin Haworth 03/May/08 Lead rpt
with Marek
Sean Kelly ??/2008 -
mppearson ??/2008 TR O/S
with alex may, carly marples
Phill Mitch ??/2008 Lead O/S
with john d
Kirill 30/Aug/07 2nd
cem 30/Aug/07 Lead rpt
Joe Dove 12/Aug/07 2nd
with paul
PanzerHanzler 07/Jul/07 2nd O/S
with Martin Hore
Different Steve 07/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Steve Gray
Hidden 20/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Andrew Sloan 17/Jun/07 2nd rpt
with Richard
climbingrick 20/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Mr Powly ?/Dec/06 2nd rpt
with George Evans
cem 15/Oct/06 2nd
georgeevans88 ?/Oct/06 Lead dog
with Tom
Cragrat Rich 17/Sep/06 Lead O/S

Enjoyable, steady E1 fare. Adventurous and varied

Hidden 17/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/06 Lead rpt
Nicos 24/Jun/06 Lead O/S
timharrison 30/Apr/06 Lead O/S
trevor macalonan 30/Apr/06 2nd dog
Peter Swift 30/Mar/06 TR O/S


with Trevor
Hidden 10/Aug/05 Lead
Hidden 03/Jul/05 2nd O/S
Laramadness 19/Feb/04 2nd
LoopyLou ??/2004 Lead

Underrated nice climb. Pumpy thin crack finish.

with Chiellie Carroll
Mark A Humphries 13/Aug/03 Lead O/S
with Andy
Hidden 12/Aug/02 Lead
Hidden 29/Jun/02 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/02 Lead
Hidden ??/2002 -
D Tempest ?/Jul/00 2nd
with Rick
tlr ??/2000 Lead
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/99 2nd
ArnaudG ??/1999 -
Hidden ??/1997 2nd
phardman 04/Nov/95 Lead
Hidden 29/Jul/95 2nd
Neil R 23/Jul/95 Lead
with Richard W
D Tempest 18/May/95 Lead
with Rick
Hidden 21/Apr/95 Lead
Hidden 12/Jul/94 2nd
Roget 10/Apr/94 Lead O/S
with jon
IanGilbertJones 16/Oct/93 Lead O/S
Stoney Boy 05/Jun/93 2nd O/S
with Jim Kelly
uphillnow 26/Mar/93 -
leathers ??/1993 -
with Charlotte Evans
Hidden ??/1993 Solo
NickJH ?/May/92 Lead O/S
with MAcari
craig d ??/1992 -
Chris Ellis 12/Sep/91 Lead
with Paul Farmer
Steve Crowe 24/Jun/91 Lead O/S
michael burrows 30/Mar/91 2nd
with tony barnett
steve prior ?/Jul/90 Lead
with Rob W
Hidden 11/Jul/89 2nd
neilh 10/May/88 Lead
with dave croker
Nick Biven 27/Mar/88 Lead O/S
with Martyn Hannan
Hidden ?/Sep/86 Lead O/S
andy gittins ??/1985 -
John Marsland 05/Aug/84 Lead
with Tony Rex
Dave Musgrove 03/Oct/82 Lead

Repeated on 11.6.83 via Vulcan's Variant.

with David
Ian Jones ??/1982 Lead
with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc
ewar woowar ??/1982 -
babymoac 13/Jun/81 Lead
with MTW
Hidden 15/Apr/81 Lead
Rob Davies 24/Jul/80 Lead

Possibly with a rest, as it's strenuous

with Tony Welsh
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Robmwatt ??/1980 -
Robmwatt ??/1980 -
Mark Kemball 24/Nov/79 Lead
with Mark Brewster
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC ?/Aug/77 Lead
with Phil Smith
Al Evans ??/1976 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
ndraper1, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, mapperley samurai, mcb, alp79, Hidden, Hidden, Ragnaar, Alaric, aretherenoneleft, PanzerHanzler
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 88
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 84
Votes cast 76
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set