Rockfax Description
A fine varied pitch with a lot of good climbing and no nasty surprises along the way. Follow Lyons Corner House to the high ledge then trend right to reach and pass the central overlap awkwardly by finger-jamming and a tough mantelshelf. Finish up the wide gritty crack above. © Rockfax

FA. Alan Clarke early 1960s. FFA. Tom Proctor 1975 1962

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age, Ultimate E2 ticklist.

dom94 17/Sep Lead O/S
with ben stoker
Hidden 05/Sep Lead O/S
David Kay 22/Aug Lead O/S

Good climb however the terrible conditions didn't make the climbing as enjoyable as it could have been. It was baking hot and my hands were super sweaty, not great on the precarious mantle shelf move. In fact it was so hot I even had to bare flesh and take my t-shirt off when stood in the cave. When I got to the top I got attacked by hundreds of flying ants and then the heavens opened just as Dave got to the top. It turns out that flying ants land and stick to whatever is closest to them when it rains, which was unfortunately my bare back. Not nice.

with Dave Gent, Rachael Spraggs
deacondeacon 15/Aug Lead O/S

Only just. Not climbing well today. Didn't have a cam for the last break so had to lower a rope and winch one up. Cool route though, and cool crux.

Hidden 25/Jul Lead
benkelsey 15/Jul 2nd rpt


with Shaun Humphreys
shaunhumphreys 15/Jul Lead O/S

Didnt feel too bad!

Colin Scotchford 05/Jul 2nd
tim newton 21/Jun 2nd O/S
Rachel Slater 21/Jun Lead O/S
Gambit 19/Jun Lead O/S
with Rob Woon, Mark Leicester
paul79 03/Jun Lead
jamesturnbull 23/May Lead
with rich howells
jimbonfire 15/May -
with TT
gavinpeach 10/May Lead O/S

Great varied climbing and well protected. Brilliant fun route.

with Max Pendleton
Brannock 26/Apr Lead rpt
Hidden 26/Apr 2nd O/S
MSchobitz 26/Apr Lead O/S

Seconded this ages ago and remember nothing, so counting this as an onsight. The fun only starts once you leave the HVS, but it gets really good from there!

with USMC
gritnit 21/Apr 2nd

Again an education from Jon who lead the route. Unable to copy his lower crux move using a left hand lay away, but managed with mantel shelf, using a knee (not so flexible these days) and converting right hand hold from pull-up to undercut to step up. Upper hard move again a mantel using foothold to right. Enjoyable stunning route in late evening sunshine. Thanks Jon.

paul79 18/Apr 2nd O/S
phil64 11/Apr Lead


with phil baker
greglad ?/Apr -
Gregory ??/2015 2nd rpt
with Jon Morgan
Hidden ??/2015 -
Louishmouis ??/2015 -
Sam Simpson 09/Nov/14 Lead O/S

Fantastic Route

robblowen 01/Nov/14 2nd β
with Jonny
ashtond6 01/Nov/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 26/Oct/14 Lead O/S
greenclimb 28/Sep/14 Lead rpt
with Sarah
Hidden 28/Sep/14 2nd
benkelsey 23/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Took ages to commit to the upper slab - much easier with a size 2.5 cam - thanks James.

Hidden 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
simon1965 04/Sep/14 Lead rpt

Great! Third time now.

with Si Willshire
Brannock 26/Jul/14 Lead rpt
Nigel Bond 26/Jul/14 2nd
Robb Bert 13/Jul/14 Lead
Hidden 05/Jul/14 Lead β
ashtond6 05/Jul/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 12/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/14 -
Jim Slater 03/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Mike Tutt 03/Jun/14 2nd
with Jim Slater
ashtond6 01/Jun/14 Lead rpt
alp79 01/Jun/14 2nd dog

Fine until final mantle

Brannock 18/May/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 18/May/14 2nd dog
planetmarshall 17/May/14 2nd
with Chris Brooke
ChrisBrooke 17/May/14 Lead O/S

Lovely route. Interesting moves between great rests and perfect gear.

with Andrew Marshall, Duncan Bell
jshields 14/May/14 Lead


with Andy Neath, Jeff Ingman
j.buckley87 14/May/14 Lead O/S

fun climb

robw007 03/May/14 Lead β
Hidden 03/May/14 Lead O/S
rurp 29/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Hardest bit on Lyons corner house!

with bill farmer
Hidden 29/Apr/14 Lead
bwestwood 19/Apr/14 Lead
pie_eater_pete 19/Apr/14 -
Frank the Husky ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
uphillnow ??/2014 -
Matthew Ferrier 15/Nov/13 2nd rpt
amccann 15/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Matthew Ferrier 10/Nov/13 Lead O/S

A gazillion no-hands rests with some good moves between them, kept on wanting to be surprised by a sustained sequence but it never came.

with Micki
MSchobitz 10/Nov/13 2nd O/S
greenclimb 06/Oct/13 Lead rpt
with Gill
Jus 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S
drysori 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Nice, two grades easier than Twikker!

with Andy Gray
climberchristy 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S

A really varied and interesting route. Good move through roof and excellent crux mantle on the top slab. Really enjoyable.

with Ben Cole
Cake 01/Oct/13 Lead O/S

You get to have a proper look at all three hard bits in safety and rest before you commit to them. First proper-length-E2 I've done in ages. Massive epic abbing for gear

with Matt
Chris Reid 28/Sep/13 Lead
Hidden 28/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Dan Bates 24/Sep/13 -
Andy Peak 1 21/Sep/13 Lead

Nice move at the top

with Dan bates
Andrew Wilson 14/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Joughton 10/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Wayne S 01/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with John
Brannock 01/Sep/13 Lead rpt

Seconded before but forgot where the crux was and what gear the upper slab needs. Good route, varied climbing.

Hidden ?/Sep/13 2nd
markfairbank 25/Aug/13 Lead dnf

Blew the crux mantelshelf which was followed by some airtime. Wires in the upper crack were disappointing having used the crucial cam lower down!

Hidden 15/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/13 Lead
Simon Davis ?/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Tim P
Alistair Corbett 18/Jun/13 Lead O/S

way too hot... nearly fluffed the crux but just about shakily made it to the top!

with nick
Hidden 10/Jun/13 Lead
Hidden 31/May/13 2nd
Hidden 31/May/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/May/13 Lead O/S
Siderunner 06/May/13 Lead β

With ridiculous amounts of beta

with Andrew P
henry peter jenkins 05/May/13 Lead O/S

good route.

Jake Young 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Easier than a thought it was going to be and really safe :D

with Jack
jwpil 27/Apr/13 2nd rpt
with Jake
ashtond6 21/Apr/13 2nd O/S
ashtond6 20/Apr/13 Lead rpt
alp79 20/Apr/13 2nd dog

Fear face

Nick Sillem ??/2013 -
ejected ??/2013 -
Seymore Butt ??/2013 -
Shauna 07/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Jules
James Oswald 07/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Not really a soft touch imo. the first mantle onto the ledge is hard, followed by a harder mantle into the crack on the upper wall. The holds get fairly small. Super

Mr. K 07/Oct/12 2nd O/S

Really pleased to second this without too much fuss. Strong lead by young James.

robinsi197 06/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Nick
climbingpixie 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Not quite the soft touch I was expecting! Very good route with lots of varied climbing - I loved the juxtaposition between the really powerful moves pulling over the roof and the technical slab moves above.

with Andy
Hidden 22/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Marti999 13/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Debbie
debbie roberts 13/Sep/12 2nd
leon 16/Aug/12 Lead O/S

A lad from Sheffield seconded me as Ste didn't fancy the look of it. When we got down someone was on the e3 to the right. He took a whipper off the crux, including gear ripping. Very exciting to watch and made my route & effort feel very very tame.

with Steven Davidson
Kevster 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Paul Eckton 12/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with kevin faux, steve read
esther ?/Aug/12 Lead
masa-alpin 22/Jul/12 Lead rpt

After backing off Twikker... DMM Offset nut No.11 (light-blue) got stuck and we failed to retrieve it.

with Lee P, Andy Rich
Hidden 22/Jul/12 2nd dog
catblack 17/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Some lovely moves between good rests, found the crux to be the second mantel, especially as i had already placed the crucial cam that would have protected the move!

with Skippy
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 05/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Katya 05/Jul/12 2nd dnf

It went biblical.

simon1965 25/Jun/12 Lead rpt
John Nuttall 25/Jun/12 2nd
with Simon
jwpil 20/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with Deacon
Dave Foster 20/May/12 Lead rpt
with Si
ojp 20/May/12 2nd
with Dave
Hidden 06/May/12 TR β
Dave Turnbull, BMC 24/Apr/12 Lead
with Mick Ryan
bigdrew ?/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Martin Haworth 31/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Brannock 31/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
pie_eater_pete 14/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with paul sheppard
treg 11/Mar/12 2nd

Very enjoyable. If I can get up this without falls, why on earth did I back down of that HS4b last week?

with Will
maddy.c ??/2012 Lead
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Nick Sillem ??/2012 -
Si dH 29/Oct/11 2nd rpt
with Olly
Hidden 29/Oct/11 Lead rpt
Matt Cooke 30/Sep/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Ollie B 18/Sep/11 Lead β

Previously fallen off at the break, but cleanly this time. ground up

with S.Bennett
M_W_Court 08/Sep/11 Lead O/S
JRae 08/Sep/11 2nd
Dave Rumney 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Tanya Milner
Hidden 01/Aug/11 2nd
tatz45 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Carston
Hidden 24/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Luke Brooks 23/Jul/11 2nd
with Tom Wild
BeccaSnowden 21/Jul/11 Lead O/S

On Mike's gear. Really good mantle moves.

with Tom
thomasadixon 21/Jul/11 2nd rpt
with Mike, Becca
JamieSparkes 01/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Nick
Nick1812P 01/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Jamie
dan gibson 27/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with sam read
jwpil 26/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Gordon
gordonday 26/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with Jack, clive
Hidden 23/Jun/11 2nd
JRae 01/Jun/11 Lead
Rich Malcolm 28/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/May/11 2nd rpt
belay bunny turned bad 02/May/11 Lead β
with Ian, loundsy
Ian Broome 02/May/11 Lead β

should have saved right size friend for top. made do with what i had left. Good climbing

with Becks, Tim
Ricky Rocks 01/May/11 Lead O/S
steve_yo 01/May/11 2nd
Hidden ?/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/11 Lead O/S
ojp 17/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Si
Hidden 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
spidey 03/Apr/11 Lead
with Jimmy
Hidden 27/Mar/11 2nd O/S
busdriver 27/Mar/11 2nd

Crazy fluttery

with Neil
Milnes 26/Mar/11 Lead rpt
masa-alpin 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S

The upper face was harder than the overlap. Nice moves and very well protected.

with Doug S
cat22 19/Mar/11 2nd
with Mike
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
mwatson ??/2011 -
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
Jonathan Hall 30/Oct/10 Lead

Really good route, i ended up humping the first overlap into submission by sitting on the spike, harrowing.

Hidden 30/Oct/10 2nd
melonmike 16/Oct/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
mark20 13/Oct/10 Lead rpt
Abevan 05/Sep/10 2nd
with james walker
Speeddemonsi 03/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 31/Aug/10 Lead rpt

Thought it was longer since I 2nded this. I didn't have the right size cam for the mantel so a little worrying. Good rests between some excellent but taxing moves :)

Hidden 22/Aug/10 Lead O/S
chris j 01/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Doug
DorsetGareth 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S

3rd E2. Marvellous, a great position to be in!

with Pip
lukea ?/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with dan, Al
robw007 ?/Jun/10 Lead β
Owen W-G 30/May/10 Lead O/S

Onsight except for knowing the crucial friend size to reserve for the final horizontal. Nice moves, good gear and not too much effort required, milder end of E2 and plenty easier than Regent St.

with Max
Hidden 09/May/10 Lead
tom.e 26/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Malcolm
Dave Foster 25/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Really good climb. Found getting past the overlap bloody desperate, long legs or lack of technique. Mantel higher up was easy by comparison. Brilliant position on top slab.

with Andy
Ahab 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Apr/10 2nd
john lynch 22/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Lewis Andrew
Hidden 22/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/10 2nd O/S
vanderz 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S
katyvose1 ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 2nd dog
mark20 01/Oct/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Sankey 27/Sep/09 2nd dnf
with Luke
felixthelion 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S
tommytuffa ?/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Luke A, Felix
Nicos 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S
OffshoreAndy 16/Aug/09 2nd
DavidR 14/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 04/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Rachel Hassall
Tony Holdsworth 03/Jun/09 Lead dog

three controlled rests and one rest on the rope and then went OK but slow!

with Peter Harris
Hidden 01/Jun/09 2nd
mbutton ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Alex Adgar
andy gravestock 25/May/09 Lead O/S

good route, good gear remeber that all important size cam.

with steve, ian
thomasadixon 07/May/09 Lead O/S

Felt soft, crux moves probably easier if you're tall (not that I am).

with Graeme
Graeme Hammond 07/May/09 2nd O/S
Si dH 26/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Great route, really enjoyed it, quite easy for the grade though. Thought the overlap was the crux; the mantel was much easier than Id expected, definitely didnt feel 5c. Was glad of the right size cam for the mantel though.

with Neil Furniss
Hidden 26/Apr/09 Lead O/S
metal arms 26/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Apr/09 2nd O/S
drcorbasisgod 25/Apr/09 Lead O/S
alicia 24/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Thea
Hidden 14/Apr/09 Lead
Dan 85 03/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Tim
kingholmesy ??/2009 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
roberto18 27/Sep/08 Lead
with Dad (Mike Bridges)
Pete Graham 23/Sep/08 Lead
with James Fleming
PenJD 21/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Brown 18/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Henry
WB 08/Sep/08 Lead O/S

quite easy for the grade

with Guy
Different Steve 27/Aug/08 Lead dog

Popped off 2nd crux sequence - Sooo close!

with Guy Reid
Alex Mason 03/Aug/08 Lead rpt

Attempted 2years ago, got to the top break (pre-crux) and had no gear to fit, inducing a top rope dropped. Not suprised i didnt do it in hindsight, good climbing.

Hidden 13/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/08 Lead rpt
joe larner 25/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Matt
Hidden 25/Jun/08 2nd rpt
alaan 07/Jun/08 Lead O/S
petellis 07/Jun/08 2nd O/S
Coel Hellier 04/Jun/08 Lead
spacey 26/May/08 Lead O/S
with Clive
ksjs 24/May/08 Lead O/S

good climb with tricky finish

Hidden 14/May/08 Lead O/S
Brian Rodgers 10/May/08 Lead O/S
with Neil Hillis
Ram MkiV 06/May/08 Lead β

After tom on his gear

with Tommy M
bfreeman 26/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Tim Marjot
Chubbard 30/Mar/08 Lead O/S

Brilliant. Really good fun.

JimR ?/Mar/08 -
with Charles H
kingholmesy ??/2008 2nd O/S
with Brian
jude s ??/2008 Lead
with N champion
Hidden 14/Nov/07 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 22/Aug/07 2nd
with Tom Randall
Hidden 18/Jul/07 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/07 Lead
Hidden 20/Jun/07 2nd dog
Hidden 30/May/07 2nd
Hidden ?/May/07 2nd
Liam Dangerfield ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Dave Johnson
datoon ??/2007 Lead O/S
with MJ
datoon ??/2007 Lead O/S
with JB
feilx 17/Sep/06 2nd O/S
dannyboy83 17/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/06 2nd rpt
Andrew Sloan 28/Jul/06 Lead rpt

1st clean E2 lead!

with Tony Ball
Martin Haworth ??/2006 Lead RP
with Andy
Hidden ?/Oct/05 Lead O/S
cem 11/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with David T
johnboyrevel ?/Sep/05 2nd O/S
with Karren
Stig 05/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Karl Walton + Chris
BruceW ?/Aug/05 Lead dog

Dropped gear!

with Al D.
chrishedgehog 05/Jul/05 2nd
with James and Karl
Hidden 03/Jun/05 2nd
Hidden ??/2005 -
shark 01/Sep/04 Lead
with Jon Winter
Cragrat Rich ?/Jul/04 Lead O/S

Hardest onsight to date (2006) on paper during a really good spell of form. Enjoyably varied and technical

Hidden ?/Jul/04 Lead O/S
Mark A Humphries 28/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Jim
Apharri ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Dave Wharton
Hidden 20/Jul/03 Lead O/S
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Ian Smith
Rich Kirby ?/Aug/02 Lead rpt
with Chris Read
nickdonohue ?/Aug/02 2nd
with Joe Brown
Hidden 29/Jun/02 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/02 Lead
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/Jun/02 Lead O/S
with Viv
Hidden ??/2002 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2002 -
Hidden 21/Jun/01 Lead
skygodley 20/Jul/00 Lead O/S
D Tempest ?/Jul/00 Lead
Boy ??/2000 -
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Ben
Urgles ??/2000 Lead O/S
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
craig h 15/Mar/98 Lead O/S
with Janet Hannah
Rich Kirby 22/Feb/98 Lead
Hidden ?/Oct/96 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1996 2nd
Hidden ?/Sep/95 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/95 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/95 Lead
D Tempest 28/Aug/94 Lead
with Rick
Roget 10/Apr/94 Lead O/S
with jon
nai ??/1994 2nd
Stoney Boy 26/Jul/93 2nd O/S
with Bob Marks
IanD353 ?/Jun/93 Lead O/S
ste_d 12/May/93 Lead O/S
with mik
mikedelderfield 12/May/93 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
Hidden 16/Sep/92 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/92 AltLd
Neil R 31/May/92 2nd
with Richard W
craig d ??/1992 -
neilh 12/Jul/91 Lead
with Tom Shenton
gordonday ??/1990 Lead rpt
phil64 ??/1990 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/89 Lead
phardman 20/May/89 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby ??/1989 Lead O/S
with Andy williamson
NickJH ?/Jun/88 2nd O/S
with NGillman
Billg ??/1988 Lead O/S
John Marsland 25/Jul/87 2nd
with Dave Soles
Alan James - UKC and UKH 23/Jul/87 Lead
with Nigel Gregory
Dave Musgrove 17/Jun/87 AltLd
with Kim Greenald
Hidden 24/May/87 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1987 -
GordonHart ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Richard French
Hidden 08/Jul/86 Lead
Mike Owen 18/Sep/85 -
with Simon King
andy gittins ??/1985 -
GuyM ??/1985 -
Hidden ??/1985 Lead
Andy Fielding ??/1984 2nd
with Steve Hartland
Tom V ??/1984 Lead
with Glenn Watson
charlesmfrench 10/Oct/82 Lead O/S
mark-abz 07/Sep/82 Lead
with Eric P
Mark Kemball 28/Aug/82 2nd
with Dave Abbey
Ian Jones ??/1982 Lead
with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc
nbotting ??/1982 2nd
Hammy 04/Oct/81 2nd
with Rob Lawson
Hidden 21/Jun/81 Lead
nbotting ??/1981 -
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Robmwatt ??/1980 -
Robmwatt ??/1980 -
Mark Kemball 11/Aug/79 AltLd
with Paul Clark
KRB 07/Jan/78 Lead O/S

Excellent climb - one of my favourites. Did in the very short period of time when I was a better climber than Martin

with Martin Veale
Al Evans ??/1976 -
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC ?/Aug/75 -
with Phil Smith
Hidden ??/1967 2nd dog
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
ndraper1, ralphio, MYox, Sam McCarthy, Hidden, Bernie L, Sam Watson, schofieldm2, Oddjob, hutchay, simon pape, Hidden, Calum Wadsworth, jimxxx, RFWilkie, Dean177, iceaxejuggler, nigel pearson, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Dr Caterpillar, Hidden, Hidden, beegsyboy, Hidden, Hidden
High E3
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Low E3
High E2
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Mid E1
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Votes cast 77
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
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High 5b
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Votes cast 74
Votes cast 72
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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