South Yorkshire > Millstone Edge >
 
Twikker*** E3 5c

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[Twikker, 2 kb]28m. The right-hand side of the cave leads to the lip of the roof which is passed by powerful moves (stepping in from the ledge on the right is taboo at this grade) to access the upper slab. Pass the cave (seasonal Raven's nest) to the final crack which gives tenuous finger jamming to a grubby exit. © ROCKFAX
FA. Dave Johnson 1956. FFA.Tom Proctor 1975

Ticklists: Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, 50 cracks to Squamish, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age, Cracks And Corners To Greatness.

Photo: Twikker © Dave Foster
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 130 logbooks, and on 19 wishlists.

Brannock - 2nd - 28/Jul/14

mrteale - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/14

Hidden - 13/Jun/14

Hidden - 2nd dog - 12/Jun/14

Had to pull on a wire to get into crack above cave - pretty reachy! Very good.
Duncan Campbell - UKC - 2nd - 11/Jun/14 with Rob Greenwood

Rachel Slater - 2nd rpt - 11/Jun/14 with James Oswald

Really tough. Got through the first crux, trying to get onto the jug to the right of the crack. Very tough. After the cave (sit down rest) I struggled to get over the bulge and ended up resting on the gear. I was always too pumped when I arrived at the pull over the lip. I then lowered off.. One to come back for, amazing route.
James Oswald - Lead dnf - 11/Jun/14 with Rachel Slater

Hidden - 2nd dog - 21/Apr/14

Nick Sillem - Lead rpt - 21/Apr/14

bwestwood - 2nd - 19/Apr/14

pie_eater_pete - Lead - 19/Apr/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/13

Hidden - Lead dog - 06/Oct/13

Nice to finaly get up this in good style, moves are not hard but reqwire you to be acurate when you go for them!
Andy Peak 1 - Lead RP - 29/Sep/13

Dan Bates - 29/Sep/13

Andy Moles - 2nd - 24/Sep/13 with Ferdia, Malc

ferdia - 2nd - 24/Sep/13 with Malc, Andy

Hidden - Lead RP - 14/Sep/13

Great route, really varied climbing and some awesome moves. This is definitely a tough E3 though, there's a lot of hard moves and you really have to work for it!
Joughton - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/13

Hidden - Lead dnf - 31/Aug/13

Hidden - 2nd dog - 31/Aug/13

Tom Livingstone - Lead dog - 20/Aug/13 with Dan Lane

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/May/13

To much for me today but glad i got on it but complete shut down at the top lay back rock over,this shod of bean my second route of the day not fifth!
Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 06/May/13 with Tom Martin

really nice route. cruxy getting in to the first crack system.
henry peter jenkins - Lead O/S - 05/May/13 with jake mcmanus, robbie jenkins

ejected - 2013

Great route defo up for the lead
Stuart Honick - 2nd - 2013 with Kevin avery, Charlie Cartwright

esther - Lead - Oct/12

dominic lee - Lead rpt - 16/Sep/12 with nathan lee

the climbing isn't as hard as it looks, but placing the gear looked to be the crux.
Olli-C - 2nd β - 07/Sep/12 with Nige S, Rachel Slater

Rachel Slater - 2nd O/S - 07/Sep/12 with Nigel Slater, Olli Crudge

Second time on this one after failing to do the crux (went round it) and the top overlap back in March 2009. Almost got the crux on the first go. Wasn't even that hard on the second go - should have had a rest before committing on the first go. Great sequence. Spent a long time at the overlap before I got it sussed - another nice sequence. Horrendous rope drag from the overlap as both ropes got stuck in the crack on the lip of the overhang, should have extended them further. Mark didn't follow. Abbing down for the gear was a bit of a pain as didn't get the ab line quite right.
Misha - Lead dog - 11/Aug/12 with Mark

Chickened out by hanging on the peg at the first overhang and being lowered down to the cave (then moved to Erb). I should have placed my own gear around there, really.
masa-alpin - Lead dnf - 22/Jul/12 with Lee P

Howard Lawledge - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/12 with Jack

pmurdy - 2nd - 14/Jun/12 with Mike W

mwatson - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/12

Wish I'd led it
Apharri - 2nd β - 29/Mar/12 with Lewis Andrew

pie_eater_pete - Lead dog - 21/Mar/12

Dan Mckinlay - 2012

maddy.c - Lead - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Hidden - Lead - 29/Oct/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - 10/Sep/11

chrism225 - 2nd dog - 08/Sep/11 with pete

1 fall at crux - found it hard to reach the holds
BeccaSnowden - 2nd dog - 21/Jul/11 with Mike

Sadly dirty, would be brilliant if clean.
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/11 with Mike, Becca

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/May/11

Brown - Lead - 17/May/11 with Gabrial

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/May/11

Found this again quite a battle, despite just seconding. great route
Ian Broome - 2nd rpt - 02/May/11 with Tim

steve_yo - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/11 with smacks

mwatson - 2011

Speeddemonsi - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead dnf - 21/Aug/10

Gave up too easily
melonmike - 2nd dog - 07/Aug/10 with Jack Metcalfe

Hidden - Lead rpt - 07/Aug/10

drcorbasisgod - Lead RP - 06/Aug/10 with Mark O'Neill

Dogmusher - 2nd - 06/Aug/10 with chris parson

Definitely a couple of 6a moves on this, if you ask me! Great climb though.
PeteH - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/10 with Chris Fox

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/10 with Anna

dj_brigham05 - Lead O/S - 02/May/10 with Rob Tyler

Hidden - Lead - 16/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Mar/10

TonyF - Lead - 2010

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Nov/09

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 09/Nov/09

Hidden - Lead - 31/Oct/09

lukea - Lead - Oct/09 with felix

Hidden - Lead dog - 19/Aug/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Apr/09

Hidden - 05/Apr/09

Feel off at first bit. Got 2nd go. Dodgy peg and old tat. Sat in cave for a rest.
Dan 85 - Lead RP - 03/Apr/09 with Tim

Boy - Apr/09 with Nige Kershaw

Best E3 on the crag? Brilliant.
Adam Long - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/08 with Pete Robins

Loved this route, a neo-favourite. Two great cruxes with susained interest all the way.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/08 with Steve Ramsden

jamesturnbull - Lead - Jun/08 with aiden

alaan - Lead O/S - 08/May/08 with Ian

hard technical butchness! Millstone seems to kick me up the arse! good effort by Al.
Ian Broome - 2nd dog - 08/May/08 with Al

Some cool cranking on solid finger locks.
Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 06/May/08 with Tommy M

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead - 05/May/08 with Rachel Hassall

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/07

Toby Dunn - 2nd - 17/Aug/07 with JulesV

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/07 with john singleton

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 22/May/07 with dave evans

Rob Kennard - 2007

Stepped right onto the ledge
feilx - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/06 with Dan Barbour

dannyboy83 - 2nd O/S - 17/Sep/06 with Felix Coxwell

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

Rich Kirby - 2nd rpt - Aug/02 with Chris Read

Hidden - 2002

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

Hidden - Lead - 29/Mar/98

ChrisJD - Lead - 05/Oct/97 with rc

Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/96

Hidden - Lead - 07/Aug/96

Good value!
Dave Musgrove - 07/May/96 with Paul Dawson

Hidden - 2nd - 1996

ste_d - 2nd O/S - 23/May/94 with mik

nai - Lead - 1994

Roget - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/93

NickJH - Lead O/S - Aug/93 with AGrieve

mattnuttall - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/93 with Alan Holden

mikedelderfield - Lead O/S - 12/May/93 with Steven Delderfield

Hidden - AltLd - Sep/92

Hidden - Lead - 28/Jul/92

Cowflinger - TR - 12/Apr/92 with Andy Sharp

mik1miller - Lead O/S - 1992

sadams - 2nd - 21/Jun/91 with Kev Mellieu

Great climbing and not as hard as expected. Was psyched up to do it on a day years earlier but witnessed Keith Myhill fall off Green Death and decided to pack up for the day.
KRB - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/90 with Neil Gregory

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/May/89

Rich Kirby - Lead - 1989 with Will (S. Williamson)

Hidden - Lead dog - 24/May/87

Billg - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/87 with Dave Gregory

Hidden - 1987

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 1986

Alan James - UKC and UKH - Lead - 29/Sep/85 with Brian Harley

shark - Lead rpt - 18/Jun/85 with Charlie Stripp

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Jun/85

andy gittins - 1985

shark - 2nd dog - 15/Jun/84 with Unknown Cambs Uni student

Gezzer - Lead O/S - 1983 with Merv Dudley

Ian Jones - Lead - 1982 with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc

Hidden - Lead - 1981

Mike Owen - 02/Oct/80 with Al Stewart

Mark Kemball - Lead - 16/Aug/80 with John Jefferies

Hidden - Lead β - May/80

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

jasper11 - 1980

jasper11 - 1980

Al Evans - 1976

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
stuart34, Hidden, ashtond6, jimxxx, Matthew Ferrier, Nick Sillem, Dean177, RFWilkie, Harry Chaplin, mhawk, Dan_Carroll, Hidden, Chi Cheng, richiebongo, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, lukea, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 95
hard E40 of 31
E40 of 31
easy E43 of 31
hard E316 of 31
E311 of 31
easy E31 of 31
hard E20 of 31
E20 of 31
easy E20 of 31
hard 6a0 of 32
6a1 of 32
easy 6a8 of 32
hard 5c18 of 32
5c5 of 32
easy 5c0 of 32
hard 5b0 of 32
5b0 of 32
easy 5b0 of 32
3 Stars28 of 32
2 Stars4 of 32
1 Star0 of 32
0 Stars0 of 32
Bag of .....0 of 32
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Style of ascent

Lead77 of 130 (59.2%)
Followed33 of 130 (25.4%)
Toproped1 of 130 (0.8%)
Alt Leads1 of 130 (0.8%)
Unknown18 of 130 (13.8%)

'Climbed'55 of 130 (42.3%)
clean O/S42 of 130 (32.3%)
clean β3 of 130 (2.3%)
clean rpt8 of 130 (6.2%)
clean RP4 of 130 (3.1%)
dogged14 of 130 (10.8%)
dnf4 of 130 (3.1%)