Great West Road*** E2 5b
[Will on Great West Road, Millstone, E2 5b, 2 kb]34m, 2 pitches. Fine climbing with two impressive and contrasting pitches. 1) E2 5b, 18m. Layback up the huge flake to a tiny ledge. The upper part is steeper and leads to a massive terrace. Escape or: 2) E3 5b, 16m. The upper arete is delicate and effectively unprotected. The ancient golo should not be trusted! © ROCKFAX
FAA. Dave Johnson 1957. FFA. Al Evans 1965

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties.

Photo: Will on Great West Road, Millstone, E2 5b © blackegg
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 171 logbooks, and on 34 wishlists.

lead in one pitch, top part felt at least E3, going on E4 with the fall potential.
Nick1812P - Lead O/S - 03/Oct/14 with Dan, Ben

foot slip on the green on the last move on p1. looked like a scary arete, well lead by Nick
benkelsey - 2nd dog - 03/Oct/14 with Dan Barbour, Nick Priestley

Previously failed to lead first pitch. Two brilliant pitches and might be better than Regent Street! Led both. I didn't have much chance to think about the BIG fall potential as trying to get a move on so Richard didn't get eaten to badly by midges. Caution: some loose rock right at the top just where you don't want to fall off!
Graeme Hammond - Lead rpt - 02/Sep/14 with Richard Williams

p1 only, then rain
Hannes B - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/14 with John Br

Going to have to come back for the lead on this! 2 contrasting sections, great value, awesome route!
Leo Woodhead - 2nd β - 03/Aug/14 with Jim Rogers

Hard and scary
dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/14 with John Gallant

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Jul/14

Dogged pitch 1, seconded pitch 2.
Coel Hellier - Lead dog - 02/Jul/14 with Pat

Onsighted the first pitch. Climbed through into the second pitch, past the bolt but didn't have anything left to fit in the last gear placement so bottled the last layback.
deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 16/May/14

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

Both pitches, lead the first, seconded the other.
Jus - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/13

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Sep/13

Hidden - AltLd dog - Sep/13

Just the first pitch.
Tony Holdsworth - 2nd O/S - 04/Jul/13 with Peter Harris

Simon Davis - 2nd - Jul/13 with Tim P

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/13

Fell from last move wrong handed
Andy Peak 1 - Lead dnf - 25/Jun/13 with Simon huges

Second of shame to retrev gear:-(
Andy Peak 1 - 2nd - 25/Jun/13 with Simon huges

Hidden - Lead rpt - 25/Jun/13

The E3 finish, very scary! None of my gear fitted in the slot for the final moves. You need a cam narrower than a WC Zero!
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/13 with Ben Meakin

Hidden - 2nd - 06/May/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/May/13

First pitch went 2nd go, top pitch clean OS (Narrow head cams useful) This is not a gift for the grade.
Kevster - Lead O/S - 05/May/13

the story of the lost master cam!
john lynch - 2nd O/S - 03/May/13 with Lewis Andrew

Nick Sillem - 2013

ejected - 2013

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Jul/12

Pitch 1 only
Apharri - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/12 with Dave Fiddler

dropped the last move. P1 only
DaveFidler - 2nd dog - 11/Jul/12

maddy.c - Lead - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2012

Matt Cooke - Lead O/S - 19/Nov/11 with Tom Jagger

Hidden - 2nd β - 24/Sep/11

belay bunny turned bad - Lead dog - 24/Sep/11 with loundsy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/11

Tough route. Glad I was on a top rope for the top pitch. Moves felt OK, but exposed & run out on the lead!
robin_hackney - 2nd O/S - 10/Sep/11 with Si

2nd pitch
steve_yo - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/11 with smacks

terrifying, bottled it and put side runners in.
tonanf - AltLd - Aug/11 with Pep

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Jul/11

Butch first pitch followed by a scary second pitch (which I strung together). Pretty much all you could want in a grit route.
Andrew Barker - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/11 with Wormatron

fookin nails! polished footholds, greasy locks, semi blind placements and 5b on nearly every move. great though. slipped off low down, so got it second go, had to really dig in at top though! let out gutteral ug while popping a bit for final jug. most undignified.
w.pettet-smith - Lead - 22/Apr/11 with wiggy

Hidden - 2nd β - 22/Apr/11

Minimal beta. saw Jim do it, but didn't pay attention. good route... be wide!
willoates - Lead β - 21/Apr/11 with Jim Burton

Hidden - Lead - 18/Apr/11

dj_brigham05 - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Thom Simmons

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd β - 03/Apr/11

Shauna - 2nd - 27/Mar/11 with Jules

JulesV - Lead rpt - 27/Mar/11 with Shauna Cunningham

Hidden - Solo O/S - 2011

Hidden - Lead - 2011

Dan Mckinlay - 2011

first pitch is a good E2 and the top pitch is worth E3 in its own right.
akhughes - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/10

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Jun/10

Did the 1st onsight, quite hard. 2nd pitch spooky.
Tez29 - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/10 with Ivan

first only
greenclimb - Lead rpt - 11/Apr/10

Seymore Butt - 2010

TonyF - Lead - 2010

i had to dyno 3 times and had a heel hook above head-height! just because im short! still managed it clean tho... just! awesome route!
CharlieMack - 2nd O/S - 05/Oct/09 with Rik Battye

Brown - 2nd O/S - 18/Aug/09 with Henry

Preplaced Gear
Madblock - Lead β - 16/Jul/09 with Charles

Me too weak - Pete slipped and took skin of little finger - ab for gear. RSPCA
Tony Holdsworth - Lead dnf - 03/Jun/09 with Peter Harris

Hidden - Lead dog - 21/May/09

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - AltLd rpt - 10/May/09 with Eric Hildrew

Led pitch 1, Nige led pitch 2
Boy - Apr/09 with Nige Kershaw

eastley - 2nd - 2009

Pitch 1 only, it was a bit wet.
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/08 with John Nightingale

Hidden - Lead dog - 21/Sep/08

greenclimb - Lead - 21/Sep/08 with Sarah

greenclimb - Lead RP - 21/Sep/08 with Sarah

Seconded the first by the skin of my teeth, then lead the second, eventually by cutting loose and slapping twice as was necessary
Paz - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/08 with TS, SC

Tim Steward - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/08 with James Parrot

dan gibson - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/08 with AJ

Ian Parnell - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/08 with Adrian Berry

Took the second pitch - quite interesting!
alaan - AltLd O/S - 23/Apr/08 with Mat

Had this climb on the wishlist for some time because it called out to me. An absolutely bomber friend O placement also made me very happy! Great top pitch also but glad wasn't leading. Fantastic line! 3 stars
mattyork2 - AltLd O/S - 23/Apr/08 with Alan Royle

lowersharpnose - 01/Jan/08

1 pitch
Docent - 2nd - 22/Sep/07 with juras

Toby Dunn - Lead rpt - 22/Aug/07 with Tom Randall

Pitch 1, but only after holding Ted fall a total of twice the height of the route over 4 attempts!
Pythonist - Lead O/S - 05/May/07 with Teddington

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Feb/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

Bottom pitch only
kingholmesy - 2nd dog - 2007 with random!

TomHaigh - 2nd dog - 2007 with James Turnbull

feilx - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/06 with Dan Eastley & Seb

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/06

Bern - 2006

Holly R - 2nd - 2006 with Jorg

Hidden - 2nd - Aug/05

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

Hidden - 2005

1 fall. pitch 1 only
shark - Lead - 01/Sep/04 with Jon Winter

Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd O/S - Jun/02 with Joe Brown

Hidden - 2002

ian caton - Lead O/S - 2001 with Matt

John Marsland - Lead dog - 12/Aug/00 with Allen Newby

Hidden - Lead - 01/Aug/00

ChrisJD - Lead - 12/Jun/00 with rc

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/00

tuftynick - Lead - 2000

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Jun/99

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/99

ArnaudG - 1999

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/May/98

Obi-Wan is lost... - 2nd - 15/Feb/98 with Calum

Very little recolection of this but told we definately did it, need to go beac again and do it to claim a retroflash!!
Gambit - Lead RP - 1997 with Barney

Top pitch only
Chris the Tall - TR - Jun/96 with Bill G

nacnud - 2nd - 12/May/96

phardman - Lead - 04/Nov/95

Hidden - 2nd - 07/May/95

Hidden - 2nd - 1995

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 02/Sep/94 with David

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Aug/93

Hidden - Lead - 03/Aug/93

NickJH - AltLd O/S - Jun/93 with JOwen

IanD353 - Lead O/S - Jun/93

ste_d - Lead O/S - 12/May/93 with mik

Roget - Lead O/S - 08/May/93 with JT

craig d - 1992

mik1miller - Lead O/S - 1992 with elliot blaylock

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/91

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Oct/90

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/90

Hidden - Lead - 23/Sep/89

Rich Kirby - AltLd - 1989 with The General (P.Henderson)

Hidden - 1989

Billg - Lead O/S - 1989 with Dave Gregory

Chris Ellis - 2nd - 03/Jul/88 with Nige Shaw

Neil R - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/88

Hidden - Lead dog - 17/Apr/88

BRUCESTRAC - 1988 with Chris Cracknell,Various

steve taylor - Lead - 1987

GordonHart - Lead O/S - 1987

John Marsland - Lead - 12/Oct/85 with Dave Mould

Hidden - Lead dog - 28/Sep/85

Mike Owen - 18/Sep/85 with Simon King

Led pitch 1 15-6-1985
Alan James - UKC and UKH - Lead - 28/Aug/85 with Matt Snape

amstel - 2nd - 28/Aug/85 with Alan James - UKC

Thought I was going to die on the top arete
shark - AltLd - 23/Jun/85 with Phill Dickens

Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - 1985 with tim wright

andy gittins - 1985

Hidden - 1985

Hidden - Lead - 07/Oct/84

Dave Musgrove - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/84 with Dave Gregory

probably only the 1st pitch on this date
John Marsland - Lead - 17/Jun/84 with Dave Mould

Ian Clare - 1984

Gezzer - Lead O/S - 1983 with Merv Dudley

Did only 1st pitch.
charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/82

Hidden - Lead - 09/Oct/82

mark-abz - Lead - 14/Sep/82 with Andy W

Ian Jones - Lead - 1982 with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc

Ghastly Rubberfeet - Lead - 1982

nbotting - 1982

ewar woowar - 1982

Also soloed the leftwrads variation a month later
KRB - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/80 with Mike Bridges

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

Hidden - 11/Aug/79

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 10/Jul/79

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/79

Hidden - Lead - 19/Jun/78

Mark Kemball - Lead - 24/Apr/77 with Paul Clark

Jonathan Lagoe - UKC - AltLd - 1977 with Al Baker

Al Evans - 1976

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Ash Sayers, alexjz, jimxxx, rurp, Matthew Ferrier, Nick1812P, Dave 88, robin_hackney, Michael Hood, richardr, coupy, alexanderjwatts, Emma-Louise Anderson, richiebongo, Jonathan Hall, dashitboarder, prinny, Scott McRae, petellis, looter, Siderunner, climbingrick, timo.t

Voting
Total votes cast 87
hard E30 of 32
E30 of 32
easy E312 of 32
hard E217 of 32
E23 of 32
easy E20 of 32
hard E10 of 32
E10 of 32
easy E10 of 32
hard 5c0 of 28
5c0 of 28
easy 5c4 of 28
hard 5b19 of 28
5b5 of 28
easy 5b0 of 28
hard 5a0 of 28
5a0 of 28
easy 5a0 of 28
3 Stars22 of 27
2 Stars5 of 27
1 Star0 of 27
0 Stars0 of 27
Bag of .....0 of 27
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Style of ascent

Soloed
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean rpt
Clean RP
dogged
dnf