Rockfax Description
The magnificent scalloped arete is unprotected where it matters although gear can be fiddled in the half-height bore holes. Not for the faint of heart, because from the crux you will hit the ground, gear or not! © Rockfax

FA. Alan McHardy 1974

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, World Graded List, Peak Rock/11/Gritstone in the Seventies., Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist.

phil64 14/Oct 2nd rpt
with matt dean
FlavioL1989 15/Aug Lead O/S

Spent the morning psyching up and practiced placing two tricams one handed which on the climb were useless, Raj could have had lunch instead. no pads, first E5!

Ram MkiV 09/Jun Solo O/S
BenjaminLinneRyn 30/Apr Solo O/S
Louishmouis 29/Apr Lead β
with Dave
NDD 26/Apr Solo O/S
with Howard
malx ?/Apr Lead O/S

been waiting to pluck up the courage for ages. amazing!

Hidden 15/Mar TR RP
phil64 ??/2015 -
spidermonkey09 13/Jun/14 Lead G/U

Ground up, one play a few weeks ago with a pad. Amazing climbing. Last few metres are a definite no fall zone!

Dr Toph 12/Jun/14 Solo O/S

Felt harder than I expected. With no chalk to show the way, it was a bit puzzling at times and momentarily slappy. But then, Im shit at aretes.

Hidden ??/2014 2nd
mike mo ??/2014 2nd
dannyboy83 16/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Terrifyingly easy! Too much time to think about the situation so hardest part was controlling the adrenaline. Great SUMC support!

with Ben Corbey
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/Sep/13 Solo O/S
with Si Verspeak
Hidden 31/Aug/13 2nd β
henry peter jenkins 05/May/13 Lead β

nice climbing, not to hard but committing. got a nut rapped back on itself for protection in the bore holes. saw a chap do it before i did, so not really an onsight.

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 05/May/13 Lead RP

Head pointed it as I was a wuss. Great climbing!

Hidden 17/Apr/13 Solo O/S
ejected ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 TR O/S
peaker16 18/Sep/12 TR
Alex Munnery 16/Sep/12 TR dog
with Alan Caley
Daniel Heath 15/Sep/12 Solo rpt

No pads this time to claim the full grade Video here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dA8BegjLR2I&feature=youtu.be

Daniel Heath 01/Sep/12 Sent β

With Two pads. No one else wanted to climb so they said I should solo something. I set out just to "have a look" and kept going. 2 crux rockovers were fairly steady with good rests to think about the moves. The 3rd rockover felt pretty dodgy but at least there was a nice surprise on the right...

DaveFidler 11/Jul/12 TR O/S
with Adam Harrison
Hidden ??/2012 Solo RP
Nick Sillem ??/2012 Solo O/S
Hidden 23/Oct/11 TR O/S
s.c.white 23/Oct/11 TR dog
with mike thomas
Hidden 29/Jul/11 TR
Hidden 29/Jul/11 TR O/S
alaan 16/Apr/11 Solo O/S

Quite terrifying.

Lewis Andrew 15/Apr/11 Solo O/S

SCARY but bbrilliant :)

Somerset swede basher 08/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with George Taylor
jacobjacob 11/Mar/11 Solo β

in a chain of five ascents, still felt quite lonely on the top moves...

harvie ?/Mar/11 Solo O/S
pipof747 06/Oct/10 Solo RP
Hidden 04/Oct/10 TR
Dave Heaton 04/Oct/10 TR
akhughes 03/Sep/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/10 TR
dan gibson 17/Jul/10 Solo O/S

Calm, composed and scared all at the same time.

with michael porter
Hidden 17/Jul/10 TR β
Andrew Barker 13/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Fantastically atmospheric climbing. I found getting to the shot holes harder than the last couple of moves even though they were more precarious and far more dangerous. No pads.

Shauna 09/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Jules
Hidden ?/Apr/10 Lead RP
Ewano ??/2010 TR

on-sight top rope...not that that means much :P

thrutch 04/Oct/09 -
willoates 14/Sep/09 Solo RP


Hidden 06/Sep/09 2nd
Hidden 06/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Sep/09 Lead
JulesV ??/2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Dec/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 20/Oct/07 Solo O/S
MYSSAK 15/Sep/07 Solo O/S
Toby Dunn 22/May/07 Solo
Hidden 12/Jul/06 TR dog
Hidden 12/Jul/06 TR β
lukehunt ?/Jul/06 Lead RP
with Ian Jackson
Gus 08/May/05 Lead O/S

andi went "grey" from belaying fear

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2005 -
BruceW ??/2004 TR O/S
with Al D.
Jus ?/Apr/03 Lead O/S
Rob Davies ?/Jun/02 TR

Shunt on rope attached a long way back - lots of rope stretch

Roget ??/2002 Lead O/S

alien in shot hole

with baccy, jon
tuftynick ??/2001 Lead O/S
with ben winston
sadams 30/Mar/00 Solo rpt
with unseconded
tlr ??/2000 2nd
with Dave
DavidEvans 30/Apr/99 Lead O/S

Had belayed Ol and co previous to ascent. No top rope practice. Bought alien and tricam. Put sling on top "spike"! It's hard, but not that hard, I've certainly climbed alot harder.

with Oliver Forrest, adam ellwood
Phil West 30/Aug/98 TR O/S
with The Luton Loonies
Mike Owen 10/May/98 -


with Elaine Owen
Chad123 ??/1998 2nd O/S

Definitely a lot easier ( more like an E2) to second, again glad I wasn't leading....

with Will
Dave Musgrove Jnr 01/Sep/96 Solo rpt
with tim russon
switch ??/1996 Lead O/S

no pads

Davros the Psyched ??/1996 Solo O/S
Alan James - UKC and UKH 14/Sep/95 Lead
Hidden ??/1995 2nd
mattnuttall 28/Apr/94 Solo rpt
Dave Musgrove Jnr 22/Mar/94 Lead O/S


with Nick Ashton
Hidden ??/1993 TR O/S
mattnuttall 25/Jul/92 Solo O/S

wow... needs a cool head... note no pads under this in 1992.. perhaps a beer towel!

mik1miller ??/1992 Lead O/S
with elliot blaylock
mark mcgowan01 ??/1988 Solo O/S

felt E6 6a onsight

with Andy Kirk
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
AB1965 10/Jun/86 Lead
GordonHart ??/1986 TR O/S
Chris Craggs ??/1985 Solo

Top roped it once then soloed it. Stood a long time below the crux - psyching up

with Graham Parkes
Hidden 07/Oct/84 TR
steve L 27/May/84 TR
Hidden ??/1984 Solo β
Mark Kemball 08/May/82 TR

Tried to on sight lead it, bottled out of the last move.

mark-abz 26/Apr/82 TR

Lead top pitch 14-Sep-82 with Andy W

with Andy W
Ian Jones ??/1982 2nd
with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc
Hidden ??/1982 TR
Al Evans ??/1976 -
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC ??/1976 -
Hidden ??/1973 -
Hidden ??/1950 Lead RP
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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 37
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 37
Votes cast 31
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set