London Wall*** E5 6a
[American Josh on London Wall, 2 kb]22m.

Rockfax Description
One of the finest finger-cracks in the country sees many attempts and many failures. The initial leaning fissure is as hard as anything on the route (feels like 6b ) although the leftwards traverse is also taxing. Above this steady climbing leads to a reasonable rest ledge before the breathtaking final crack where many attempts flounder. An essential E5 tick. © ROCKFAX

FAA. Trevor Peck 1956. FFA. John Allen 1975

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50, Extreme Rock, Top 20 Gritstone UKC Wishlist Climbs, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, London Wall Training List, Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Trad climbs for sport climbers, Extreme Rock "Wall" Routes, Hard Grit history, World Graded List, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Cracks And Corners To Greatness, 50 of the Best, Summer 2015, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, WideBoyz Crack School, Ultimate E5 ticklist.

Photo: American Josh on London Wall © Niall Grimes
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This climb is in 88 logbooks, and on 231 wishlists.

Bit of a battle after getting flash pumped at the start. crux was probably getting round to doing it after 7 years of putting it off
malx - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/15

Hidden - Lead dnf - 03/Jun/15

Led on aid, 44 mins, cleaned in 16. Easy to aid. Put in as DNF so as not to screw up logbook!
philhilo - Lead dnf - 15/Feb/15 with Helen E

C1 training today
ashtond6 - Lead dog - 14/Feb/15

Totally mega. Damp and humid, pinged off the start placing a runner first go. Top crack is mega and it keeps going right to the top. Perfect!
Alex Mason - Lead β - 15/Sep/14 with Dave brown

really happy to do this one. got on 4th go i think after taking some heffty whippers.. such good climbing. placed first piece on abb as i didnt want to brake my back again!
henry peter jenkins - Lead RP - 31/May/14 with paul jones

Hidden - Lead dnf - 15/May/14

Hidden - TR RP - 21/Apr/14

mike mo - 2nd - 2014

At Last!. After a psyche sapping damp morning at curbar, the weather brightened and gave really nice conditions. The lead went smoothly, allowing me to really enjoy it and savour those last few moves which proved such a struggle last week. A perfect Birthday Treat!
samt - Lead RP - 07/Oct/13 with Mark H

Fell from the last moves TWICE. Very frustrating.
samt - Lead dnf - 01/Oct/13 with Andrew Hart, Nic Kidd

Finally ran out of excuses
JulesV - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/13 with Shauna

Blew the on-site - got spat off the first crack several times. Conditions were a bit smeggy. Got from there to a few feet from the top and took the whipper, it had gone dark by that point.
samt - Lead dnf - 23/Sep/13 with Graham Hughes

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Sep/13

Access denied - The first attempt at getting some gear in the first section killed my left hand and it was all downhill from there on the other attempts.
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead dnf - 16/Jun/13

Yes, after years of waiting, finally went for it and didn't fall! First crack was so pumpy placing gear, nearly fell. Down climbed twice. After the traverse I was increasinly relaxed to the good rest. Ditched all the gear and the top section was much better than I'd hoped. Only one thin pull on a mono but most of the finger locks were really good. Massive weight off my shoulders today :)
Daniel Heath - Lead β - 04/Jun/13 with Dave Weston

Hidden - Lead dog - 27/May/13

Hidden - 2nd dog - May/13

Robbed of the onsight by a footslip a meter below the top, gutted doesn't even come close. Did it clean on the second attempt but it's much easier with the gear in place. Classic for a reason.
jacobjacob - Lead RP - 24/Feb/13

Aided up. Lost the onsight but hopefully lead it free one day. An absolutely cracking route.
squicky - Lead - 13/Jan/13 with rg1976

Hidden - 2nd - 2013

On my first attempt, I fell off the initial crack. I then lowered, and on my second attempt I made it to about a metre below the top of the crag before I ran out of steam, slapping for and missing the last hold. I took a mahoosive whipper and ripped a cam, which left me a little shaken so I bailed. Disappointed to miss out on a classic but I look forward to coming back stronger and cruising it!
Joughton - Lead dnf - 22/Sep/12

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 15/Sep/12

Fucking yes!!!!! So psyched to get this. The initial crack sapped my energy. Legs started shaking at half way. fired up from the crux to the top with no gear cos i didn't think i could hang around to place any. foot popped off at the top, arms started shaking too. Held on to glory tho. So pleased!!!!! WHOOP WHOOP!!!
markalmack - Lead RP - 15/Sep/12 with gregg capon

soph - 2nd dog - 15/Jul/12 with Andy Reeve

Howard Lawledge - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/12 with Jack

found loads of rests, annoyingly all right next to each other
mwatson - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/12 with johnny

maddy.c - Lead - 2012

Hidden - Solo β - 2012

after finally sticking the first 15ft of hard fingerlocking, got thrown off the top move. brilliant climbing, bit greasy at the moment. one day i hope to meet it on the sharp end!
thomb - TR - 22/Oct/11 with Andrew

Put it off for years, all went well in the end. Stiff little section on the top crack, no footholds!
Adam Long - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/11 with Ben Bransby

cudn't even get to the leftward traverse!! had a few goes an left it as brutilised my fingers from the finger locks!!! bloody hard!!!
peaches69 - TR dnf - 07/Aug/11 with marc lloyd

Hidden - Lead dnf - 15/Jul/11

TomPR - Lead - 21/May/11

Just brilliant. Possibly an ambition since I first started climbing?
alaan - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/11 with tatz45

ali_robb - Lead O/S - Apr/11

Marcus - 2011

Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor - 2011

Hidden - 2011

GeoffG - 2011

Ged Desforges - Lead O/S - 2011

Hidden - 2nd - 2011

Third go
FlorianCastagne - Lead RP - 22/Aug/10

SImply outstanding! Traverse is nails and then took two monster whippers one hold from the top! Glad i finally decided to try it.
dj_brigham05 - Lead RP - 16/Aug/10 with Thom Simmons

Hidden - 2nd dog - 28/Apr/10

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10 with Neil Pope

Had brief go at bottom crack with Crispin Waddy in 1990 but we didn't get past thefirst runner.
Dave Turnbull, BMC - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/09 with Marcus Payne

Jon Garside - Lead O/S - Apr/09

lukehunt - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/09 with Mark Tolvert

inuklm - 10/Aug/08 with Juha

Laid this ghost to rest 10 years after falling from the top crack. Sweet!
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead - 11/Jul/07 with Andy Cave & Ben Moon

5th time? Still just as good!
Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead rpt - Apr/07

Mark Riley - 2nd O/S - Apr/05

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/03 with ollie

Alan James - UKC and UKH - Lead - 14/Sep/95

fell at the top the evening before, did 1st go today
Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead - 07/Aug/95 with Nick Ashton

Glenn Sutcliffe - 1995 with keefe

1 fall
ste_d - Lead dog - 20/Jun/94 with mik

mikedelderfield - 2nd dog - 12/May/93 with Steven Delderfield

Hidden - Lead dog - 1993

hands on top... pumped and top sandy... WOW! am off...Gaz round corner lighting a fag with rope slack - hit him on the stretch! serves him right - near ground fall off well protected route, hilarious!
mattnuttall - Lead dog - 25/Jul/92 with Gareth Parry

mik1miller - Lead dog - 1992 with derek johnson

Robmwatt - Lead - 1992

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/91

Alan James - UKC and UKH - Lead - 04/Jul/91

Hidden - Lead β - Sep/90

Hidden - Lead - 14/Jun/90

craig d - Lead O/S - May/90

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1989

Hidden - 1987

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

keefe - 03/Aug/86 with Johnny Adams

Hidden - Lead RP - Oct/85

Hidden - Lead RP - 1985

Mike Owen - Lead rpt - 14/Oct/84 with Tom Jones

Mike Owen - 2nd β - 10/Oct/84 with Bruce Woodley

Mark Kemball - Lead dnf - 11/Aug/83

Hidden - 2nd - 1983

Hidden - Lead - 1983

mark-abz - TR - 1982 with ?

Marcus - 1980

Marcus - 1980

Too hard for me!
Chris Craggs - 2nd - 1980 with Graham Parkes

Marcus - 1980

Marcus - 1980

paul__in_sheffield - Lead - 1980

Al Evans - 1976

A1 aid version
mikej - Lead dog - 30/Jan/72 with E

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Total votes cast 110
hard E60 of 41
E61 of 41
easy E61 of 41
hard E512 of 41
E524 of 41
easy E52 of 41
hard E41 of 41
E40 of 41
easy E40 of 41
hard 6b0 of 39
6b2 of 39
easy 6b17 of 39
hard 6a12 of 39
6a8 of 39
easy 6a0 of 39
hard 5c0 of 39
5c0 of 39
easy 5c0 of 39
3 Stars30 of 30
2 Stars0 of 30
1 Star0 of 30
0 Stars0 of 30
Bag of .....0 of 30
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Style of ascent
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP