South Yorkshire > Millstone Edge >
 
London Wall*** E5 6a

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[Milstone and London wall, 2 kb]22m. This compelling crack splitting the sheer red wall is an essential hard-core tick - the climbing is safe as houses and hard as nails! The initial leaning fissure is as difficult as anything on the route (feels like 6b) although the leftwards traverse is also taxing. Above this steady climbing leads to a reasonable rest ledge before the breathtaking final crack and shallow groove where many ascents flounder spectacularly. © ROCKFAX
FAA. Trevor Peck 1956. FFA. John Allen 1975

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50, Extreme Rock, Top 20 Gritstone UKC Wishlist Climbs, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, London Wall Training List, Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Trad climbs for sport climbers, Extreme Rock "Wall" Routes, Hard Grit history.

Photo: Milstone and London wall © Lawrie Brand
View all 37 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 64 logbooks, and on 184 wishlists.

Robbed of the onsight by a footslip a meter below the top, gutted doesn't even come close. Did it clean on the second attempt but it's much easier with the gear in place. Classic for a reason.
jacobjacob - Lead RP - 24/Feb/13

Aided up. Lost the onsight but hopefully lead it free one day. An absolutely cracking route.
squicky - Lead - 13/Jan/13 with rg1976

On my first attempt, I fell off the initial crack. I then lowered, and on my second attempt I made it to about a metre below the top of the crag before I ran out of steam, slapping for and missing the last hold. I took a mahoosive whipper and ripped a cam, which left me a little shaken so I bailed. Disappointed to miss out on a classic but I look forward to coming back stronger and cruising it!
Joughton - Lead dnf - 22/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/12

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 15/Sep/12

Fucking yes!!!!! So psyched to get this. The initial crack sapped my energy. Legs started shaking at half way. fired up from the crux to the top with no gear cos i didn't think i could hang around to place any. foot popped off at the top, arms started shaking too. Held on to glory tho. So pleased!!!!! WHOOP WHOOP!!!
markalmack - Lead RP - 15/Sep/12 with gregg capon

soph - 2nd dog - 15/Jul/12 with Andy Reeve

Howard Lawledge - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/12 with Jack

found loads of rests, annoyingly all right next to each other
mwatson - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/12 with johnny

maddy.c - Lead - 2012

wojtt - Solo β - 2012

after finally sticking the first 15ft of hard fingerlocking, got thrown off the top move. brilliant climbing, bit greasy at the moment. one day i hope to meet it on the sharp end!
thomb - TR - 22/Oct/11 with Andrew

Put it off for years, all went well in the end. Stiff little section on the top crack, no footholds!
Adam Long - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/11 with Ben Bransby

cudn't even get to the leftward traverse!! had a few goes an left it as brutilised my fingers from the finger locks!!! bloody hard!!!
peaches69 - TR dnf - 07/Aug/11 with marc lloyd

Hidden - Lead dnf - 15/Jul/11

#32
TomPR - Lead - 21/May/11

Just brilliant. Possibly an ambition since I first started climbing?
alaan - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/11 with tatz45

ali_robb - Lead O/S - Apr/11

Hidden - 2011

Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor - 2011

Hidden - 2011

GeoffG - 2011

Brilliant
Ged Desforges - Lead O/S - 2011

AlKirk - 2nd - 2011

Third go
FlorianCastagne - Lead RP - 22/Aug/10

SImply outstanding! Traverse is nails and then took two monster whippers one hold from the top! Glad i finally decided to try it.
dj_brigham05 - Lead RP - 16/Aug/10 with Thom Simmons

Hidden - 2nd dog - 28/Apr/10

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10 with Neil Pope

Had brief go at bottom crack with Crispin Waddy in 1990 but we didn't get past thefirst runner.
Dave Turnbull, BMC - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/09 with Marcus Payne

Jon Garside - Lead O/S - Apr/09


lukehunt - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/09 with Mark Tolvert

aid
inuklm - 10/Aug/08 with Juha

Laid this ghost to rest 10 years after falling from the top crack. Sweet!
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead - 11/Jul/07 with Andy Cave & Ben Moon

5th time? Still just as good!
Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead rpt - Apr/07

Mark Riley - 2nd O/S - Apr/05

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/03 with ollie

Alan James - UKC and UKH - Lead - 14/Sep/95

fell at the top the evening before, did 1st go today
Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead - 07/Aug/95 with Nick Ashton

Glenn Sutcliffe - 1995 with keefe

1 fall
ste_d - Lead dog - 20/Jun/94 with mik

mikedelderfield - 2nd dog - 12/May/93 with Steven Delderfield

Hidden - Lead dog - 1993

mik1miller - Lead dog - 1992 with derek johnson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/91

Alan James - UKC and UKH - Lead - 04/Jul/91

Hidden - Lead β - Sep/90

Hidden - Lead - 14/Jun/90

craig d - Lead O/S - May/90

Hidden - 1987

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

keefe - 03/Aug/86 with Johnny Adams

Hidden - Lead RP - Oct/85

Hidden - Lead RP - 1985

2nd Bruce Woodley 10/10/84
Mike Owen - 14/Oct/84 with Tom Jones

Mark Kemball - Lead dnf - 11/Aug/83

Hidden - 2nd - 1983

Hidden - Lead - 1983

mark-abz - TR - 1982 with ?

Hidden - 1980

Hidden - 1980

Too hard for me!
Chris Craggs - 2nd - 1980 with Graham Parkes

Hidden - 1980

Hidden - 1980

Al Evans - 1976

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Voting
Total votes cast 87
hard E60 of 33
E60 of 33
easy E61 of 33
hard E58 of 33
E521 of 33
easy E52 of 33
hard E41 of 33
E40 of 33
easy E40 of 33
hard 6b0 of 31
6b0 of 31
easy 6b15 of 31
hard 6a9 of 31
6a7 of 31
easy 6a0 of 31
hard 5c0 of 31
5c0 of 31
easy 5c0 of 31
3 Stars23 of 23
2 Stars0 of 23
1 Star0 of 23
0 Stars0 of 23
Bag of .....0 of 23
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 64 (1.6%)
Lead38 of 64 (59.4%)
Followed8 of 64 (12.5%)
Toproped3 of 64 (4.7%)
Unknown14 of 64 (21.9%)

'Climbed'28 of 64 (43.8%)
clean O/S16 of 64 (25.0%)
clean β2 of 64 (3.1%)
clean rpt1 of 64 (1.6%)
clean RP6 of 64 (9.4%)
dogged6 of 64 (9.4%)
dnf5 of 64 (7.8%)