Rockfax Description
One of the finest finger-cracks in the country sees many attempts and many failures. The initial leaning fissure is as hard as anything on the route (feels like 6b ) although the leftwards traverse is also taxing. Above this steady climbing leads to a reasonable rest ledge before the breathtaking final crack where many attempts flounder. An essential E5 tick. © Rockfax

FAA. Trevor Peck 1956. FFA. John Allen 1975

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50, Extreme Rock, Top 20 Gritstone UKC Wishlist Climbs, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, London Wall Training List, Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Trad climbs for sport climbers, Extreme Rock "Wall" Routes, Hard Grit history, World Graded List, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Cracks And Corners To Greatness, 50 of the Best, Summer 2015, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, WideBoyz Crack School, Ultimate E5 ticklist.

malx 06/Jun Lead O/S

Bit of a battle after getting flash pumped at the start. crux was probably getting round to doing it after 7 years of putting it off

Hidden 03/Jun Lead dnf
philhilo 15/Feb Lead dnf

Led on aid, 44 mins, cleaned in 16. Easy to aid. Put in as DNF so as not to screw up logbook!

with Helen E
ashtond6 14/Feb Lead dog

C1 training today

Alex Mason 15/Sep/14 Lead β

Totally mega. Damp and humid, pinged off the start placing a runner first go. Top crack is mega and it keeps going right to the top. Perfect!

henry peter jenkins 31/May/14 Lead RP

really happy to do this one. got on 4th go i think after taking some heffty whippers.. such good climbing. placed first piece on abb as i didnt want to brake my back again!

with paul jones
Hidden 15/May/14 Lead dnf
Hidden 21/Apr/14 TR RP
mike mo ??/2014 2nd
samt 07/Oct/13 Lead RP

At Last!. After a psyche sapping damp morning at curbar, the weather brightened and gave really nice conditions. The lead went smoothly, allowing me to really enjoy it and savour those last few moves which proved such a struggle last week. A perfect Birthday Treat!

with Mark H
samt 01/Oct/13 Lead dnf

Fell from the last moves TWICE. Very frustrating.

with Andrew Hart, Nic Kidd
JulesV 29/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Finally ran out of excuses

with Shauna
samt 23/Sep/13 Lead dnf

Blew the on-site - got spat off the first crack several times. Conditions were a bit smeggy. Got from there to a few feet from the top and took the whipper, it had gone dark by that point.

with Graham Hughes
Hidden 03/Sep/13 2nd
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 16/Jun/13 Lead dnf

Access denied - The first attempt at getting some gear in the first section killed my left hand and it was all downhill from there on the other attempts.

Daniel Heath 04/Jun/13 Lead β

Yes, after years of waiting, finally went for it and didn't fall! First crack was so pumpy placing gear, nearly fell. Down climbed twice. After the traverse I was increasinly relaxed to the good rest. Ditched all the gear and the top section was much better than I'd hoped. Only one thin pull on a mono but most of the finger locks were really good. Massive weight off my shoulders today :)

with Dave Weston
Hidden 27/May/13 Lead dog
alice fuller ?/May/13 2nd dog

Also had a play Aug '12.

jacobjacob 24/Feb/13 Lead RP

Robbed of the onsight by a footslip a meter below the top, gutted doesn't even come close. Did it clean on the second attempt but it's much easier with the gear in place. Classic for a reason.

squicky 13/Jan/13 Lead

Aided up. Lost the onsight but hopefully lead it free one day. An absolutely cracking route.

with rg1976
Hidden ??/2013 2nd
Joughton 22/Sep/12 Lead dnf

On my first attempt, I fell off the initial crack. I then lowered, and on my second attempt I made it to about a metre below the top of the crag before I ran out of steam, slapping for and missing the last hold. I took a mahoosive whipper and ripped a cam, which left me a little shaken so I bailed. Disappointed to miss out on a classic but I look forward to coming back stronger and cruising it!

Hidden 15/Sep/12 2nd dnf
markalmack 15/Sep/12 Lead RP

Fucking yes!!!!! So psyched to get this. The initial crack sapped my energy. Legs started shaking at half way. fired up from the crux to the top with no gear cos i didn't think i could hang around to place any. foot popped off at the top, arms started shaking too. Held on to glory tho. So pleased!!!!! WHOOP WHOOP!!!

soph 15/Jul/12 2nd dog
with Andy Reeve
Howard Lawledge 11/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Jack
mwatson 30/Mar/12 Lead O/S

found loads of rests, annoyingly all right next to each other

with johnny
maddy.c ??/2012 Lead
Hidden ??/2012 Solo β
thomb 22/Oct/11 TR

after finally sticking the first 15ft of hard fingerlocking, got thrown off the top move. brilliant climbing, bit greasy at the moment. one day i hope to meet it on the sharp end!

with Andrew
Adam Long 26/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Put it off for years, all went well in the end. Stiff little section on the top crack, no footholds!

with Ben Bransby
peaches69 07/Aug/11 TR dnf

cudn't even get to the leftward traverse!! had a few goes an left it as brutilised my fingers from the finger locks!!! bloody hard!!!

Hidden 15/Jul/11 Lead dnf
TomPR 21/May/11 Lead


alaan 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Just brilliant. Possibly an ambition since I first started climbing?

with tatz45
ali_robb ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Marcus ??/2011 -
Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Ged Desforges ??/2011 Lead O/S


Hidden ??/2011 2nd
FlorianCastagne 22/Aug/10 Lead RP

Third go

dj_brigham05 16/Aug/10 Lead RP

SImply outstanding! Traverse is nails and then took two monster whippers one hold from the top! Glad i finally decided to try it.

Hidden 28/Apr/10 2nd dog
Luke Brooks 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Had brief go at bottom crack with Crispin Waddy in 1990 but we didn't get past thefirst runner.

with Marcus Payne
Jon Garside ?/Apr/09 Lead O/S
lukehunt 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S

with Mark Tolvert
inuklm 10/Aug/08 -


with Juha
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 11/Jul/07 Lead

Laid this ghost to rest 10 years after falling from the top crack. Sweet!

with Andy Cave & Ben Moon
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/Apr/07 Lead rpt

5th time? Still just as good!

Mark Riley ?/Apr/05 2nd O/S
Dave Bond 13/Mar/03 Lead O/S
with ollie
Alan James - UKC and UKH 14/Sep/95 Lead
Dave Musgrove Jnr 07/Aug/95 Lead

fell at the top the evening before, did 1st go today

with Nick Ashton
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
keefe ??/1995 -
ste_d 20/Jun/94 Lead dog

1 fall

with mik
mikedelderfield 12/May/93 2nd dog
Hidden ??/1993 Lead dog
mattnuttall 25/Jul/92 Lead dog

hands on top... pumped and top sandy... WOW! am off...Gaz round corner lighting a fag with rope slack - hit him on the stretch! serves him right - near ground fall off well protected route, hilarious!

with Gareth Parry
mik1miller ??/1992 Lead dog
with derek johnson
Robmwatt ??/1992 Lead
Hidden 08/Aug/91 Lead O/S
Alan James - UKC and UKH 04/Jul/91 Lead
Hidden ?/Sep/90 Lead β
Hidden 14/Jun/90 Lead
craig d ?/May/90 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1989 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1987 -
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
keefe 03/Aug/86 -
with Johnny Adams
Hidden ?/Oct/85 Lead RP
Hidden ??/1985 Lead RP
Mike Owen 14/Oct/84 Lead rpt
with Tom Jones
Mike Owen 10/Oct/84 2nd β
with Bruce Woodley
Mark Kemball 11/Aug/83 Lead dnf
Hidden ??/1983 2nd
Hidden ??/1983 Lead
mark-abz ??/1982 TR
with ?
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Chris Craggs ??/1980 2nd

Too hard for me!

with Graham Parkes
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
paul__in_sheffield ??/1980 Lead
Al Evans ??/1976 -
mikej 30/Jan/72 Lead dog

A1 aid version

with E
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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 42
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 31
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set