Rockfax Description
12m. The thin crack provides an awkward start (primes the pump) then step right to a flake in the bulge. Climb leftwards to a grasping final move. Originally started from the chimney to the right which is easier but less satisfying. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb the crack in the corner (same start as Bird's Nest Variation', till it is possible to traverse right to a flake in the bulge. Up this and move left and tackle the bulges above to a stiff finish. OK, if you know where the hold is.

Ticklists: A day out with Dolphin, The Complete Dolphin Collection, ARD Yorkshire Grit, The 3 star way to yorkshire gritstone's heaven, Ultimate HVS ticklist.

Mike Todd 31/Oct Lead rpt

Damp break so even pumpier than normal.

hipyhop 25/Oct Lead RP

Fell, lowered, beta from above, fell, pulled back on found the hold, clean next attempt

with cheque
Hidden 25/Oct 2nd dog
georgenvk 17/Oct 2nd O/S
thetradlad 03/Oct Lead rpt
with James Woodman
Jackwd 03/Oct Lead rpt

One of the three!

with Guy Chater
bomtall 20/Sep Lead
Hidden 20/Sep Lead dog
jeddb 19/Sep Lead O/S
dashed 19/Sep 2nd
Hidden 17/Sep Lead rpt
DBoothroyd 09/Sep Lead G/U

Clean second go

with Josh Taylor, Chris Marsden
JoshT91 09/Sep 2nd dog
with David Boothroyd
kenneM 24/Aug Lead O/S
ianjfsutcliffe 24/Aug 2nd
with Laura, Kenny
GPN 23/Aug 2nd
TobyA 23/Aug 2nd O/S
with Tom R
redshapedfriday 23/Aug Lead O/S
monkeyman79 17/Aug Lead rpt

Finally slayed the demon!

with Rick Kerr
Hidden 01/Aug 2nd
PeteH 18/Jul Lead rpt
with Rob Boyle
robman 18/Jul 2nd rpt
shaunhumphreys 16/Jul Lead O/S
Teappleby 16/Jul 2nd
Hidden 15/Jul 2nd
PaulTanton 14/Jul Solo rpt
Dan Geh 11/Jul Lead G/U

Fell a few times desperately trying to find a hold on top. Pulled ropes through and lead clean. A lot easier when you know how!

PaulTanton 09/Jul Solo rpt
tim newton 30/Jun Lead O/S
Rachel Slater 30/Jun 2nd rpt
Mike505 25/Jun Lead dnf

Made it clean up to the top break but didn't realize the route moved left onto the other break, pumped out after 4 falls trying to move straight up from the right hand one. I'll be back!!!

Hidden 16/Jun Lead
Hidden 12/Jun Lead rpt
Georgie25 17/May 2nd
Hidden 17/May Lead β
Hidden 13/May Lead rpt
Jmpollard 13/May Lead O/S
DPaul 13/May Lead O/S
with pete
davebrox 12/May -
Rachel Slater 09/May Lead O/S

Cool little route.

with Rosie Slater
ebf 09/May 2nd dog
pastep 09/May Lead
with Anneka, ebf
jon22 04/May Lead
with si frost
frost 04/May 2nd
with John Sealy
stickonthewall 01/May Solo

First time I've soloed it.

charley 22/Apr 2nd O/S
with Tom
Jackwd 19/Apr Lead O/S

Seriously pumpy!

with Scott
DavidR 16/Apr Lead rpt
spragglerocks 15/Apr 2nd
with Tom Evans
freemanTom 15/Apr Lead dog

Few rests, weak effort, still waiting for ego boosting start to trad this year

with Rach
mrplastique 15/Apr 2nd
with JR
Dave Musgrove 05/Apr Solo
with Paul Dawson
kelliroberts3 02/Apr 2nd
scottcoates ?/Apr Lead rpt
with Will
Mike Todd 28/Mar Lead rpt


Teappleby 24/Mar 2nd

Such a good route, also good lob by max, full commitment!

with max
Alex the Alex 21/Mar Lead rpt

Finally lead it clean! Third time's something.

with Pete N.
pete_naylor 21/Mar 2nd dog
with Alex
Callum_Johnson 20/Mar Solo O/S

Good climbing, stretchy!

with Dayni_
bwestwood 15/Mar Lead
Hidden 15/Feb Lead O/S
jack01 09/Feb Lead G/U
Hidden ??/2015 Solo G/U
lloydrees91 29/Dec/14 Lead
Hidden 04/Dec/14 Lead O/S
Alex the Alex 04/Dec/14 Lead G/U
with Dan, Nils
adam.wood 22/Nov/14 TR dog
Teappleby 09/Nov/14 Lead

Really amazing, I had built this up to be really hard with Max backing off from the flake a good couple of times in the past. Actually found it pretty easy, but as with all the Dolphin routes, I get scared before hand, because of so many years of being told they are well 'ard!

Hidden 09/Nov/14 2nd
CallumC 17/Oct/14 Solo O/S
Duncan Campbell 11/Oct/14 2nd

Tricky to locate top jugs

with Flo, Bubbles
robertmichaeladams 05/Oct/14 Lead

On Chris' gear

with Chris Down, Bex
ruairidhwad 04/Oct/14 Lead
with Morgan plain
Morgan P 04/Oct/14 Lead rpt

So glad I finally lead this clean.

samwillo 30/Sep/14 Lead
with LUUMC
RKirke 30/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Alex T
Alex the Alex 30/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Rog
Alex Hallam 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Really blind, mega flash pump, so pumped. So pumped in fact I didn't do anything harder the rest of the day.

rustaldo 27/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Good lead from Alex.

with Alex
Bron H 25/Sep/14 Lead RP
Morgan P 25/Sep/14 2nd rpt
WillDoyle 24/Sep/14 Lead O/S
poigol5043 24/Sep/14 2nd
CallumSmith 18/Sep/14 2nd
papashango 16/Sep/14 Lead rpt
with Simon
Coel Hellier 11/Sep/14 Lead
PeteWilson 08/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with John P, Dave
Hidden 07/Sep/14 Solo dnf
Hidden 01/Sep/14 2nd dog
robertmctague 30/Aug/14 Solo rpt
david morse 26/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with KT, josh
Hidden 26/Aug/14 2nd dnf
Hannes B 22/Aug/14 Solo dnf

went right

nick ferro 13/Aug/14 Lead rpt
with Oli Birkill
PaulTanton 12/Aug/14 Solo rpt
papashango 12/Aug/14 Solo rpt
scarmichael ?/Aug/14 Lead β

reach into the unknown for the side pull finish and your sorted

markfairbank 30/Jul/14 Lead rpt
DavidR 29/Jul/14 Lead rpt
Keith Swainson 27/Jul/14 Lead
with James Turner, david stevens
David Stevens 27/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with James Turner, Keith
stickonthewall 23/Jul/14 Lead RP

First HVS :)

PaulTanton 23/Jul/14 Solo rpt
Hidden 23/Jul/14 Lead
Hidden 23/Jul/14 TR
nick ferro 22/Jul/14 2nd O/S
DavidR 22/Jul/14 Lead dog
tsjx 02/Jul/14 2nd
with John Mc
Tom Peeper ?/Jul/14 -
Hidden 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/14 2nd
Luke Jones 17/Jun/14 2nd dog
with Will
Hidden 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
ashtond6 14/Jun/14 2nd O/S
richardw87 12/Jun/14 Lead dnf

Pumpzilla...will be back!

with Tom
fjg123 ?/Jun/14 -
Nick Russell 26/May/14 Lead O/S

Never knew that 10m of climbing could be so pumpy... high in the grade.

Didymus 26/May/14 2nd
1poundSOCKS 26/May/14 Lead β

Hard to find the hold on the top, I asked a friend who just happened to be close by to point it out. Not that reachy (if you can find it), I'm only 5'6" with a negative ape, but being lanky would make it a bit easier. No real hard moves, just steep.

SMThompson1 26/May/14 Lead dog
with Meg H
KatherineWard93 26/May/14 2nd
Hidden 22/May/14 2nd dog
Hidden 18/May/14 -
Olli-C 14/May/14 Lead β

Cant deny that I haven't seen pictures and heard tales of the hidden holds so cant really claim the onsight. Not as bad as I expected.

with Swanny
joe_lancs 05/May/14 2nd
CragDog ?/May/14 Lead RP
Hidden 30/Apr/14 Lead dog
monkeymyster 27/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Dave Mayes 27/Apr/14 Lead O/S
K Mckay 24/Apr/14 2nd
with Ed Hutchings
robman 05/Apr/14 Lead RP
robertmichaeladams 09/Mar/14 Lead


with Bex
ebf 02/Mar/14 Lead dog

Had to rest below the crux to clear my head of the voices arguing whether to try it or not. It's called Demon Wall for a reason! Hard to believe I put up a new E1 two weeks ago and then....this! :) Very committing. Lovely.

spidermonkey09 23/Feb/14 Lead dnf

A last ditch attempt to tick the third classic when already pumped backfired spectacularly. Massive reach at the top, 5a my arse. Took brilliant whipper from top of the crag.

theomoore 13/Jan/14 Lead β
Nez ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 Lead dog
Climbster 26/Dec/13 2nd rpt
with Ian
Bloke on a Rope 26/Dec/13 Lead O/S

Nice climbing top section wasn't as hard as i thought.

with Matt
kenneM 14/Dec/13 Lead
Compo 16/Nov/13 Lead dog
with Gareth
Brian Rodgers 10/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Mike Todd ?/Nov/13 Lead rpt

Easy when you know how, nails when you don't!!

with Kevin
Will_Mac 26/Oct/13 2nd
Zumoid 20/Oct/13 TR dog

First time trying a HVS grade and I think it will be a while before I lead it! All went well save for a very stretchy move to a tiny tiny pocket at the top where I had to lean on the rope to figure out where I was trying to go. Paul also tried to top-rope it but gritstone got the better of his hands which looked very sore afterwards!

paulmck 20/Oct/13 TR
kyaizawa 19/Oct/13 Lead β

Finally returned to do it - definitely worth the trip to Almscliff!! Top hold very hard to find, and much appreciated the beta from the ground. Awesome route, but very hard to onsight!!

BLodge 19/Oct/13 2nd
ianjfsutcliffe 05/Oct/13 Lead rpt
Richard P Coates 01/Oct/13 2nd rpt
lanky and weak 24/Sep/13 Solo O/S
with John McCune
Hidden 22/Sep/13 2nd
PaulTanton 21/Sep/13 2nd rpt
ralphio 14/Sep/13 Lead dog

My first trad fall. Quite strenuous and crimpy moves to the top then I got pumped out searching for the final jug. Rested on the rope for 5 mins then climbed it second time round. Good gear throughout, will lead it clean next time now I know where the jug is.

Hidden 14/Sep/13 2nd dog
greenclimb 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Sarah
ianjfsutcliffe 12/Sep/13 Solo rpt
Tom.Priestley 08/Sep/13 2nd dog
Hidden 04/Sep/13 2nd
GPN 18/Aug/13 2nd
with Neil Harvey
smithjmw46 16/Aug/13 Lead dog

Some of the most brutal climbing i've done. Pull hard on the first break, and on the second for a dodgy rest and then pull harder on the slopey finish. Got a super flashpump and took a nice flyer. Hard to call it more than HVS 5a but this is probably the most physically demanding climb i've tried.

dainbramaged999 16/Aug/13 2nd dog
cat22 10/Aug/13 2nd
with Mike
spragglerocks 07/Aug/13 2nd rpt
with Jon Morgan
morganator 07/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/13 Lead rpt
oread 01/Aug/13 Lead β

Tried originally once in 2012, Tried again in April claiming my first trad fall from the top, missed the jug! Climbed clean today.

Hidden ?/Aug/13 TR RP
Chris Reid 30/Jul/13 Solo
munch88 17/Jul/13 Lead dnf
with rob
DaveB61 16/Jul/13 TR
Chris Reid 09/Jul/13 Solo
spragglerocks 08/Jul/13 2nd dog
pebbles 03/Jul/13 Lead rpt

have seconded a fair few times before, but still nervous so very chuffed to have finally led it. and yes, lots of gear beta! really enjoyed if after finally getting on the lead, will deffo repeat it for pure pleasure

with paul s
papashango 03/Jul/13 Lead
with Simon
Roberttaylor 27/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Dumb warmup number 2 of peak trip

Liam Ingram 27/Jun/13 2nd O/S

Awful warm up. Felt hard.

Graham Booth 25/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Not lead before but seconded 15 years sgo

with Peri
pebbles 25/Jun/13 2nd
Hidden 18/Jun/13 Lead dnf
Alex Thompson 05/Jun/13 Lead dnf

Two more lobs off the top moves... Absieled to retrieve my gear with my tail between my legs.

MikeLeeds 04/Jun/13 Lead rpt

Placed all the gear got pumped, downclimbed the whole climb, then climbed it again clean with the gear in

with Neil Redgrave
PaulTanton 04/Jun/13 Solo rpt

Three times in one night

tsjx 04/Jun/13 2nd rpt
with Garry
Andrew Wilson 03/Jun/13 2nd rpt
Alasdair88 01/Jun/13 2nd dog
with Mike
braders94 30/May/13 2nd O/S
with Rob Cooper
Hidden 17/May/13 Lead dog
tommytwotone 30/Apr/13 2nd O/S

Seconded after cocking up the onsight lead...

with Mike
Calum Wadsworth 30/Apr/13 Lead rpt

Got up it clean this time. Still a bit pumpy though.

with Harrogate club
MeMeMe 30/Apr/13 Lead
with Tom
Andy Peak 1 28/Apr/13 Lead

The holdes take a bit of finding but easey

with Tom Martin
cobweb 13/Apr/13 Lead
with Roger Waterworth, martyn hopson
riven 07/Apr/13 2nd rpt
with Neil Stabbs
Dave Musgrove 05/Mar/13 -
with Nigel Baker
Hidden 03/Mar/13 Solo
Matthew Ferrier 19/Feb/13 Lead O/S

Got ridiculously pumped searching for a hold for the top out. Really nice though, short yet interesting.

Glenn Sutcliffe 17/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with Charl
georgedunton 03/Jan/13 Lead dog
Goose4 07/Nov/12 Lead O/S
nick ferro 20/Oct/12 -
tobyk 20/Oct/12 Lead

fell from crux.

with Stew
stewart100 20/Oct/12 2nd dog
with Toby Knights
Dickon151 18/Oct/12 Lead O/S
petekeron 18/Oct/12 2nd rpt
a13x 14/Oct/12 Lead RP
with Pierre Bouilhol, Matthew Gibbings
Hidden 14/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Julian Cooper 14/Oct/12 2nd O/S
with Stuart Knott
climbingpixie 06/Oct/12 2nd O/S

Pumpy, slopy and reachy!

Morgan P 06/Oct/12 2nd β

So, so good! Very pumped but drove through it without stopping for long which made it possible. So pleased with this tick.

with Lawrence Ian Furse
James Oswald 06/Oct/12 Lead O/S

A sandbag. E1 5b and a fairly pumpy one too. Shame it couldn't be a bit longer

with Andy Hobson, Julie Mair
Tim Rodgers 29/Sep/12 Lead
with David Forster
Hidden 29/Sep/12 Lead β
victim of mathematics 29/Sep/12 2nd dog

Foot popped just below the top. Failgasm.

with Andy
MartinWilliams87 29/Sep/12 Lead β
deacondeacon 18/Sep/12 Lead O/S

A little stiff for an HVS. Why 3 stars though? a wandering line up a short bit of rock.

dainbramaged999 16/Sep/12 2nd
with Edward Hutchings
Dibdawg 16/Sep/12 Solo O/S
with Scott Haslam
Hidden 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
The Big Sender 06/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Sep/12 Lead dog
Hidden 05/Sep/12 Lead dnf
cragtyke 01/Sep/12 2nd
with john g
Hidden 28/Aug/12 2nd β
belay bunny turned bad 28/Aug/12 Lead
with loundsy
SPD224 23/Aug/12 2nd
with Martin Smith
williamsd79 22/Aug/12 Lead dog

Easy when you know where the holds are. Good gear in the break before the reachy move for the top

fatbuoybazza 20/Aug/12 Lead dog

Don't try to finish left..

with daveyw
g1m147 18/Aug/12 Lead dog
with Steve
Rachel Somerville 12/Aug/12 Lead RP

How not to climb it!

Marq 08/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Nico, James Rowe
Rachel Somerville 02/Aug/12 Lead dog

First trad fall!!

Harry Holmes 30/Jul/12 Lead rpt
with Oli Read
RFWilkie 30/Jul/12 Lead dog

All there but very pumpy for such a short route.

with Sarah
Thinker01 30/Jul/12 Lead RP
with Becster
becster 30/Jul/12 2nd
DavidR 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S
SPD224 26/Jul/12 2nd
with Martin Smith
tsjx 25/Jul/12 Lead rpt
with Wayne
Harry Holmes 25/Jul/12 Solo O/S
tsjx 24/Jul/12 Lead dog

Went to far right going for hold beneath top out. Nothing there - popped off.

Calum Wadsworth 22/Jul/12 Lead dog

could do it now i know where the holds are

with Ruairidh Wadsworth
grubes 21/Jul/12 Lead RP

previously did it second

with ian ukb
nai 21/Jul/12 2nd rpt
with Luke
grubes 15/Jul/12 2nd
with Haydn
Hardonicus 15/Jul/12 Lead dog
with Luke Donaldson
Chriswallis2 15/Jul/12 Lead rpt
with Joe
pastep 08/Jul/12 2nd
with Tibor
PaulHermes 08/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with Tibor
Charlie Zephyr Booth 07/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with martin broadhurst
GrantB 03/Jul/12 2nd
with James
jkarran 03/Jul/12 Lead


with Grant
mike.moss ?/Jul/12 Lead dog
Steven Andrews 04/Jun/12 Lead

Wow, the pump....damnit, made it up after a fall. Great climb.

with Arjan
bazthomas 29/May/12 TR O/S

RLT Course (SPA Training)

with Sarah Yates
Hidden 29/May/12 TR O/S
alias dave 06/May/12 2nd O/S
with Sam.EB
Sam Simpson 06/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/12 Lead
crispycodd 13/Apr/12 2nd rpt

Clean this time; warm enough to feel my fingers.

Andrew Wilson 06/Apr/12 Lead dog
John Brayshaw 06/Apr/12 2nd dog
Will Hunt 25/Mar/12 Lead rpt
with Lubos Klepac
Hidden 25/Mar/12 2nd dog
Si dH 18/Mar/12 Lead rpt

Failed on this several years ago. Done today after chris lowered off it. Felt fine.

with Chris Foster
Matt Cooke 18/Mar/12 2nd rpt
with Rosh
Mark Grist 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Lee Hamilton
Hidden 17/Mar/12 Lead dog
Hidden 17/Mar/12 2nd
TRFrost 12/Mar/12 Lead rpt
with D. Armstrong
Hidden 11/Mar/12 2nd dog
kyaizawa 11/Mar/12 Lead dnf

Decked after gear behind flake popped... plus it turns out we were both moving right after the bulge to the pocket, rather than left to the more positive break, as the route should go. Definitely one to come back and do!!

with Henry Hakkinen
Hidden 11/Mar/12 Lead dnf
ianjfsutcliffe 18/Feb/12 Lead rpt
with Coatesy
Richard P Coates 18/Feb/12 2nd rpt
crispycodd 17/Feb/12 2nd

After a fail at leading because too far left.

Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
robertmctague ??/2012 Lead
JonG ??/2012 -
mikekeswick ??/2012 -
ERH ??/2012 -
josh_robertson ??/2012 -
Hidden 19/Nov/11 Lead O/S
ianjfsutcliffe 12/Nov/11 Lead rpt
with Coatesy
mark20 12/Nov/11 Lead O/S
bigdrew 12/Nov/11 2nd O/S
with Mark R
Richard P Coates 12/Nov/11 2nd dog
David Kay 05/Nov/11 Lead dnf

Got too pumped out placing cams in the break - being hungover probably didn't help either. Sam went up on my gear, placed the cams and then took a series of rather spectacular wingers from the wet holds on top! Felt steady on second.

with Sam Houlker
Tom Keaveny 31/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Esther, Olly Roberts
jacobjacob 29/Oct/11 Solo β


falcus911 16/Oct/11 TR

The final move on this route had defeated me on a previous visit

with Noddy Crouch
TRFrost 27/Sep/11 Lead dog
with D. Mckinlay
Hidden 25/Sep/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 20/Sep/11 Lead
Hidden 19/Sep/11 2nd
Alex Thompson 15/Sep/11 Lead dnf

Not sure what possessed me to climb this... Awesome moves, but got pumped and decided to slump on the gear and come back another day. :/

with Vix
kitch22 12/Sep/11 2nd rpt
with Marc Wise
cobweb 10/Sep/11 Lead
with martyn hopson
Hidden 10/Sep/11 Lead dog
Matt Cooke 08/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Andrew Cooke
ojp 04/Sep/11 2nd O/S
with Robin
Dino Dave 04/Sep/11 Lead dog

Had to rest on gear... one to come back to for the clean ascent!

with Dad
robin_hackney 04/Sep/11 Lead O/S
beds74 03/Sep/11 2nd
with neil mackay, Craig Hartley
hartleycsh 03/Sep/11 2nd
Hidden 03/Sep/11 -
andysroom 02/Sep/11 Lead RP
with Paul, Lizzie
Pike 28/Aug/11 TR dnf
andy jennings 22/Aug/11 2nd β
with dannyboy, Floris
dannyboy83 22/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Floris
Hidden 14/Aug/11 2nd β
petekeron ?/Aug/11 Lead β
with Hugh Bradley
Mowglee 30/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with Ali
Hidden 04/Jul/11 -
Hidden 17/Jun/11 Solo rpt
Will Hunt 16/Jun/11 Lead rpt

Felt harder than last time.

markfairbank 11/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with Ian Moore
Hidden 11/Jun/11 Solo
David Kay 07/Jun/11 2nd
with Jamie Sparks
JamieSparkes 07/Jun/11 Lead O/S

interesting route, top break takes some bomber gear F3.5 or similar, but you can't see it from below.

fast eddie ?/Jun/11 Lead dog

A lot harder than any of the other 5a climbs I've done on the cliff.

Hidden ?/Jun/11 Lead β
gmatthew 16/May/11 Lead O/S
Jack00 12/May/11 Solo rpt
with Andy Graham
Anthony Dixon 03/May/11 Lead
Hidden 28/Apr/11 2nd
pudding 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S

easy to go off route on if you dont read the guide and just set off from the bottom of it, found the way in the end though - much easier

with john phethean
Peter Holder 22/Apr/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 12/Apr/11 Solo rpt
Dan Lane 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Brilliant route, too hot for slopers though. took me a couple of goes to do the move out of the big break, then Chris kindly directed me to the finishing jug, think i'd have been off otherwise!

with Steve Bowker
Hidden 10/Apr/11 Solo rpt
Luke Brooks 09/Apr/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead dog
Hidden 07/Apr/11 Solo
David_Gledson 07/Apr/11 Lead
timmsy 07/Apr/11 2nd
monkeyman79 05/Apr/11 Lead dnf

I couldn't get any gear in the middle break. Last gear was behind the flake. I couldn't find the pocket at the top after my second look and peeled off. The rope tangled my leg and turned me upside down ripping the flake cam. Upside down ground fall! Luckily i had my helmet on. Just nackered my shoulders and knocked myself out for a wee while. Valuable lesson learned though. ALWAYS WEAR A HELMET OUTSIDE!

with David Edmondson
clive-greenwood 27/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with Anna
Mowglee 26/Feb/11 Lead rpt
with Ali
Mowglee 08/Feb/11 Lead rpt

Final of the 'trilogy in a day' with Great Western and OHG

with Tom Nichols
bwestwood ??/2011 2nd O/S
danny33 ??/2011 Lead
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
Theeni 27/Nov/10 Lead β

1 rest after attaining John's high point and then lead on from there. Freezing cold with snow on the ground didn't help holding on to the slopers for long periods.

with John McEvoy
petegunn 25/Nov/10 Lead
with Davina
Hidden 25/Nov/10 2nd O/S
thetradlad 20/Nov/10 TR dog
Harry Thorpe 20/Nov/10 Lead dog

Fell off the last move, standard

with Adam Jordan
AMJ098 ?/Nov/10 2nd
Adam Lincoln 28/Oct/10 Solo O/S
with Peter Hurley
Danny Crump 23/Oct/10 TR O/S
LiL Saz 23/Oct/10 -
jimmatthews 20/Oct/10 Lead β
with simon kimber
Dave Musgrove 13/Oct/10 Solo
Hidden 10/Oct/10 TR
Hidden 20/Sep/10 Lead dnf
jhardwick 10/Sep/10 Lead O/S

pumpy as usual

with dave collier
MikeLeeds 08/Sep/10 Lead O/S
clive-greenwood 08/Sep/10 2nd
DaveFidler 22/Aug/10 Lead dog

1 fall near top...bad beta+tiredness from a week of capming.

MikeDowsett 22/Aug/10 TR
TonyF 22/Aug/10 TR
nick ferro 14/Aug/10 -
Hidden 10/Aug/10 -
middlevern 09/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Jon Read 08/Aug/10 Solo
Hidden 30/Jul/10 Lead rpt
pebbles 25/Jul/10 2nd
RobSimmo 22/Jul/10 Lead dnf

Fell off last move, reaching for slopers! Went up and down several times to find the hold before this on increasingly pumped arms. Did on top rope after and found the hold! This has to be E1 on sight and a grade easier if you know where the hold is, (or maybe that's because I fell off!)

al_robinson76 22/Jul/10 TR dog
Chriswallis2 07/Jul/10 Lead rpt
with Pete
DorsetGareth 25/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Mike Lloyd
hellorichie 21/Jun/10 Lead dnf

Fell attempting a sloper topout. Will go for the jug next time :P

nai 02/Jun/10 2nd rpt
with Cal
andrew300169 02/Jun/10 Lead rpt

Nice climb low in the grade

with Pom
markfairbank 02/Jun/10 Lead dog

Dam finishing move, slap, slap, where is it? Off!

with Mick D
Boj S 31/May/10 Lead
roberto18 31/May/10 Lead
with Tom Nickols
Hidden 31/May/10 Lead β
Hidden 31/May/10 Lead dnf
sten 30/May/10 Lead O/S
with Alec Rycroft/Amy Gustin
Jack00 27/May/10 2nd rpt
with Olly
ollyroberts 27/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 25/May/10 2nd dog
Hidden 25/May/10 Lead O/S
Tez29 23/May/10 2nd β
with Ivan
mattyork2 15/May/10 2nd
with Johnny Richard
Hidden 12/May/10 Lead O/S
Dafydd Llywelyn 12/May/10 2nd
simon kimber 04/May/10 Solo
Hidden 03/May/10 2nd
Hidden 03/May/10 Lead
simon kimber 03/May/10 2nd
with Fabrizio Della Rossa
dkd 03/May/10 2nd
with karly54
akhughes ?/May/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/10 2nd
Hidden 08/Apr/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 03/Apr/10 2nd O/S
dan gibson 03/Apr/10 Lead
with michael porter
simon kimber ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
andy mcc ?/Apr/10 2nd
with Robin Nicholson
Hanski ?/Apr/10 2nd
PeteH 27/Mar/10 2nd O/S

I can see how it would be really easy to get just slightly off route, which would make things feel a lot harder.

NaomiHart 27/Mar/10 2nd O/S
with Noel Peatfield, Peter Hart
Mowglee 13/Mar/10 2nd rpt
with Ewan
Mowglee 13/Mar/10 Lead rpt
with Ewan
Ewan Russell 13/Mar/10 Lead O/S
markalmack 11/Mar/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 11/Mar/10 2nd dog
Jack00 09/Mar/10 2nd rpt
with Rob
Kirks01 09/Mar/10 2nd rpt
with Rob
Hidden 13/Feb/10 2nd β
Peter Holder 11/Feb/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Feb/10 Lead
Hidden ?/Jan/10 -
PaulHermes ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
RossG ??/2010 -
Matthew Robinson ??/2010 2nd
philw ??/2010 -
pie_eater_pete ??/2010 Lead O/S
with bwestwood
Mowglee 13/Dec/09 Lead dog

Fell off searching for the top-out hold. Found it second try slightly further right. Need to go back to clean it, sweet route!

with Ali
petellis 28/Nov/09 2nd dog

Can't believe I've ever lead this clean!

mattyork2 28/Nov/09 Lead

Think I pumped out and fell off this years ago but got it done today. Could be e2 in the peak?

nick ferro 08/Nov/09 -
Rowansb ?/Nov/09 Lead β
Hidden 17/Oct/09 Lead dog
Graeme Hammond 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S

much better holds than i expected from the ground, Excellent

with Pete aka Dad
Hidden 04/Oct/09 Lead O/S
simonp ?/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Neil Stabbs
Hidden 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Martin Davies 08/Sep/09 Lead O/S
mikeyg 01/Sep/09 Lead dog

Had a nightmare on the upper section, stepped right above the flake not left

adam coxsell 01/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Gadd
pebbles 20/Aug/09 2nd

was just dismantling belay when we saw clare and kirk, so mantled it up again for them

coombsy 18/Aug/09 Lead β
with Neil D
Reaver2k 12/Aug/09 Lead dog

Absolutely gutted about this, did most of it really nice, just got pumped nearing the top, reached over, only to find a completely sloping topout, took a fall of a metre or two with a soft landing thanks to matt. Took a rest, went back up again out slightly right aswell, reached over the top and found a perfectly good hold probably 6 inches to the left of where I was groping the previous time! Should have had it, really silly!

matthewjames 12/Aug/09 2nd O/S
James Oakes 06/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Bill Lawrence 06/Aug/09 Lead dog
with oaksi2
duzinga 05/Aug/09 Lead

climbed up and down twice. Too chicken to commit to the move above the flake. Bob demonstrated me that the gear is good by taking a fall, so I did it afterwards.

with Bob
BobPorter 05/Aug/09 Lead dnf

Tuve started and placed gear under flake, I went up and got to top break, couldn't do finishing move, took proper fall but cam held

with Tuve
BobPorter 05/Aug/09 2nd

Tuve led on well tested gear, I seconded, still couldn't do top. I will beat this climb one day!

with Tuve
Hidden 02/Aug/09 2nd
AlistairB 27/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Excellent, classic Almscliff route in great conditions put a huge smile on my face.

with Bridgett
pebbles 10/Jul/09 2nd rpt
Hidden 08/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jul/09 2nd rpt
clive-greenwood 08/Jul/09 Lead
with Kevin
Hidden 03/Jul/09 Lead
Alex Winter 02/Jul/09 Lead
al99 30/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with James Whitlock
jw231 30/Jun/09 2nd O/S

Hard climbing in the rain, lucky was on second.

with Al Benson
leepip 16/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with big rob
Hidden ?/Jun/09 Lead
jadm2 28/May/09 TR
with Helen
Dave Foster 23/May/09 Lead O/S
with Andy
Toby Dunn 21/May/09 Solo
Hidden 03/May/09 Solo O/S
Misha 02/May/09 Lead

Had to try the crux section after the flake a few times, downclimbing to the rest below the flake each time. Eventually it all came together and felt about right for a tough HVS 5a.

timbo58 25/Apr/09 TR

may be oneday

pebbles 22/Apr/09 2nd
Stig 18/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Chris
Lou Kennedy 17/Apr/09 2nd
Adam Potter 17/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Louise Kennedy
jonny taylor 15/Apr/09 Lead dog

Pumped out and fell while searching for the finishing holds

with Andy B
oliwarlow 12/Apr/09 2nd
with Ian
jimstanton 12/Apr/09 Lead dnf
Hidden 02/Apr/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 02/Apr/09 2nd rpt
chrishedgehog ?/Apr/09 2nd rpt
with James
alexrafferty1986 30/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Ryan Perry
Hidden 29/Mar/09 2nd
Hidden 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
wahniel 10/Mar/09 Lead RP

had tried before when I ran out of courage/power. A size 3.5 cam should make it safe as houses - don't know what my problem was..

with Hugh Squire
AndyL 28/Feb/09 Lead dog

Knackering-found it pretty pumpy and had to rest a few times, but still pretty fun.

with dan missen
CalumC 28/Feb/09 Lead dnf
DMiss 28/Feb/09 2nd dog
with Andy L
odox ??/2009 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2009 Lead RP
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
kingholmesy ??/2009 2nd O/S
with SteveOc
CragDog ??/2009 Lead dog
cymjt ??/2009 -
Marti999 20/Dec/08 Lead rpt
with Chris Rollins
GPN 22/Nov/08 2nd
Shaw Brown 22/Nov/08 Lead

Slipped off on first attempt

Martin Haworth 15/Nov/08 Lead rpt
with Marek
Will Hunt 15/Nov/08 Lead rpt

Great lead.

with Tom Nichols
Jim Slater 05/Oct/08 Lead dog

Hard climb on steep rock. Fell (more than once!!) when on last couple of moves, but felt great when I finally cracked it.

Hidden 05/Oct/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/08 TR
Simonj 21/Sep/08 TR
with james
JWB 13/Sep/08 Lead β

Couldnt do the final move a year ago. Found it quite easy this time.

Hidden 13/Sep/08 2nd
jonka ?/Sep/08 Lead
with mark
Toby Dunn ?/Sep/08 -
jonny taylor 17/Aug/08 Lead dnf
pebbles 23/Jul/08 2nd
RedFox 23/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Tom K
Hidden 14/Jul/08 Lead dnf
Hidden 14/Jul/08 2nd
kitch22 13/Jul/08 Lead RP
Hidden 03/Jul/08 Lead RP
cem 29/Jun/08 Lead dog

1 rest

with Rob Truckle
Hidden 27/Jun/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/08 2nd dog
Hidden 12/Jun/08 Lead rpt
Hidden 12/Jun/08 Lead dog
petellis 12/Jun/08 Lead

done many times before. fell off trying to link DW start with he top of dolphinian. Pulled the ropes and just went for demon wall.

Monk 08/Jun/08 Lead O/S

A really nice route. I thoroughly enjoyed it.

with RUMC
Peter Smith 07/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Mick Leather
Hidden 04/Jun/08 Lead rpt
Hidden 23/May/08 Lead dog
Will Hunt 20/May/08 2nd O/S
with Sam Leach
banx22 16/May/08 2nd dnf
with Adam Taylor, Dave
pebbles 07/May/08 2nd
with james meredith, dave shield
jadm2 07/May/08 2nd dog
Jon Read 03/May/08 Solo
with Mark Sharrat & Andi Turner
Neal Butterworth 02/May/08 2nd O/S
OffshoreAndy 29/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with UKC Rich
Hidden 16/Mar/08 TR
IanJackson 04/Mar/08 Solo rpt
with Peter
wilchivs 24/Feb/08 2nd dog
Mark Walter 24/Feb/08 Lead dog

got pumped placing gear under the flake

FrankKeogh 20/Feb/08 TR O/S
with Pete Davies
Peter Smith ??/2008 -
Daniel Armitage 31/Dec/07 Lead RP
towdman 31/Dec/07 2nd
JLS 12/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Jacqui
jimdanson 30/Sep/07 2nd
with Owen Samuels
bpmclimb 26/Sep/07 2nd O/S


with John A
bpmclimb 26/Sep/07 2nd O/S


with John A
alexyoung 22/Sep/07 2nd rpt
Chad123 15/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

Tough warm up route! Almscliff grades seem a little on the tough side, this one is fine once you go left and not try a silly direct finish!

with Rik
furry 09/Sep/07 2nd rpt
with Paul W
alexyoung 05/Sep/07 2nd dog
with Steve
furry 05/Sep/07 Lead RP
with Alex Young
Hidden 04/Sep/07 Lead rpt
Hidden 04/Sep/07 Lead O/S
NickST ?/Sep/07 TR dog
jonnyboy 19/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Tom C
Jack00 07/Aug/07 Lead rpt
with Dan Short
Hidden ?/Aug/07 2nd
DavidR 29/Jul/07 Lead dog
Hidden 29/Jul/07 2nd rpt
IanJackson 22/Jul/07 Lead

Another Beating, second time round, was going for the wrong holes. I will return and solo this.

with Big Ian
Jack00 18/Jul/07 2nd RP
Hidden 28/Jun/07 Lead β
alaan 26/Jun/07 Solo rpt
Hidden 23/Jun/07 2nd dog
Mark Walter 23/Jun/07 2nd
with Ben D
Chriswallis2 19/Jun/07 Lead rpt

Cool. Seconded al a year ago, thought i knew where the jug was. I didnt.

with Will
alaan 16/Jun/07 Lead rpt
with Grant
markfairbank 06/Jun/07 2nd dog

Just tough, could do the moves but just couldn't link them.

with Harry Middleton
popebenedictus 28/Apr/07 TR dnf
edd rab 28/Apr/07 TR dog
with Phil Leng
Powder Puff Girl 28/Apr/07 TR dog
with Ben H
mje1398 26/Apr/07 2nd dog
with John M
Hidden 21/Apr/07 Lead dog
dave o 21/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with James R
furry 14/Apr/07 TR RP

Stuffed it up on lead - TR'd to get gear

with Alex Young
joe larner 25/Mar/07 Lead RP
Hidden 11/Mar/07 2nd rpt
storky 18/Feb/07 TR
Xav 18/Feb/07 Lead O/S
with sean jacobs
Andrew Sloan 04/Feb/07 2nd O/S
Mattyk 02/Feb/07 Lead β

Down climbed from gear and then went up again.. pumpy!

robman 28/Jan/07 Lead dog

twating bollocks

with Tim
davetigger ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2007 Lead rpt
Sean_J ??/2007 Lead dog
Hidden 12/Nov/06 Lead O/S
Northen Vince 01/Nov/06 Lead O/S

Had to do a bit of uping and downing but no rests on gear which was good.

with Zoe & Oliver
Alaister Nurse 26/Sep/06 TR
Nick Beckett ?/Sep/06 Lead
with various
Nick Beckett ?/Sep/06 Lead
with various
robman 29/Aug/06 Lead dog

want to redo.. when fit!!!

with Tim
Ram MkiV 12/Aug/06 Solo

Fulfilled a relatively long held ambition in soloing this.

Hidden 15/Jul/06 Lead β
Hidden 12/Jul/06 Lead rpt
MeMeMe 29/Jun/06 Lead rpt
with Simon
Sankey 25/Jun/06 2nd dog

One hang, got the poor holds in the top break, won't spoil the suprise of where the better ones are...

with Luke
Hidden 09/Jun/06 Lead
Elsier ?/Jun/06 2nd dnf
with John, Ian
Hidden 10/May/06 2nd rpt
alaan 04/May/06 Lead rpt

Had a big fall on this route many a month ago, couldn't avoid having another go (for fear of beiing humiliated by yet another almsliff route) any longer.

with Chris
Hidden ?/May/06 2nd O/S
shark 11/Feb/06 Lead rpt
with Bruce Woodley
Hidden 29/Jan/06 2nd
Hidden 29/Jan/06 AltLd
King Rat ??/2006 Lead O/S
with A
oldmanrivers ??/2006 Lead
Karl Bromelow ??/2006 -
markalmack ??/2006 Lead
spoony84 ??/2006 2nd
Hidden ??/2006 2nd
alicia ?/Nov/05 2nd
with Tom Gilbert
Hidden 29/Oct/05 Lead
Shaw Brown 09/Sep/05 2nd
with David Jones
reg_measures ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with timmy elson
Hidden 23/Jul/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Apr/05 2nd O/S
Alex Mason ?/Apr/05 Lead O/S

hard did a slopey mantle to find a deep pocket by my hand

Brown 16/Jan/05 Lead
sdht ??/2005 -
RossG ??/2005 -
bigphil 15/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with Nick
WB 26/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with Ross
Hidden 11/Jul/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/04 2nd
antroy 25/Apr/04 Lead
Lev 06/Mar/04 Lead RP

Managed to fall off looking for the final hold, had someone point it out the second time around

with Matt Taylor
Hidden ?/Feb/04 Sent x
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
Ram MkiV ??/2004 Lead

had failed on this route at some stage earlier in my career. was satisfying to bag it. hardest of the 3 great almscliff HVS 5a's

with Alex Mason
adam carless ??/2004 2nd O/S

That last move is very long and very blind.

petellis ??/2004 Lead
Urgles ?/Oct/03 Lead O/S
with Fiend
Strong Steve 02/Aug/03 Lead O/S
Simon Caldwell 30/Jul/03 2nd RP
with Rich
Mark Collins 26/May/03 Lead O/S
with Mark & Justin
Hidden 26/May/03 Lead dnf
Hidden ?/Apr/03 Lead O/S
Matt Rowat 16/Mar/03 Lead O/S


with Lewis
Hidden 02/Mar/03 Lead β
Hidden ??/2003 2nd dog
Hidden ?/Oct/02 Lead
Nigel Coe 22/Aug/02 -
with Tim Dunsby
Just Another Dave 06/Jul/02 Lead dog

Like many others, fell off groping for that final blind hold! Very difficult to onsight if you've not seen it from above!

with sam kendrick
cem 29/Jun/02 TR
Hidden 04/Jun/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/May/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/May/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Apr/02 Lead rpt
Pete Pozman 17/Apr/02 Lead rpt
with PAUL
shoulders 07/Apr/02 Lead
with jim, paul
lithos ?/Apr/02 Lead
with john byrne
whispering nic ?/Mar/02 Solo
Hidden ??/2002 Lead dnf
Hidden ??/2002 2nd
Hidden ??/2002 Lead
Climbster 25/Nov/01 Lead O/S
adamwesthead ?/Nov/01 2nd O/S
with Hoult
pezzerrr 28/Oct/01 Lead O/S
ando227 ?/Aug/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2001 2nd dog
Paul Figg 11/Jun/00 -
Hidden 26/Mar/00 Lead
Whealiebob ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Robin
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Bug ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Solo
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 Solo
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
Jonathan Richardson ??/2000 Lead
Rich ??/2000 -
Tenko 08/Apr/99 2nd O/S
with Mick Bradley
ellie macpherson ?/Mar/99 2nd
with Ian Holmes
kato'sdad 24/Aug/98 Lead
RobSimmo 24/Aug/98 2nd
Hidden ?/Aug/98 Lead O/S
chrishedgehog 11/Jun/98 Lead O/S
with Dan Bailey
innes ?/May/98 Solo
jfmchivall ??/1998 -
jameshiggins ??/1998 -
nickdonohue 03/Jun/97 Lead
andrew300169 ?/Apr/97 Lead O/S
with Pom
Phill Mitch ??/1997 Lead O/S
with gaz
Hidden 10/Aug/96 2nd O/S
Neil R 23/Jul/96 Lead
with John CMC
Trobbo 15/Jun/96 2nd
with john blower
jcw 08/Jun/96 2nd
with Martin Harris
Hidden ?/Jun/96 Lead O/S
Russell Lovett 13/May/96 Lead O/S

Had tried to solo this before, but backed of top moves. Easy with rope and gear.

with andrew haigh
leathers 08/May/96 Lead O/S
with Julian Simmons
craig h 30/Mar/96 Solo rpt
rob.grafton 10/Sep/95 Solo
with Bruce
Rich Kirby 28/May/95 Solo
Roget 27/May/95 Lead O/S
with jon
nickdonohue 30/Apr/95 2nd
with John Proctor, Dave Chapman
rob.grafton ??/1995 -
dazbarker 28/Jul/94 Solo O/S
Chris Reid 30/Oct/93 Lead O/S
rob.grafton 27/Apr/93 2nd
with Bruce
Hidden ??/1993 -
Hidden ?/Sep/92 Solo
crater 31/Jul/92 2nd
Hidden 02/Jul/92 Lead rpt
Pete Pozman 21/Jun/92 2nd
with John Byrne
rob.grafton 20/May/92 Lead
with Bruce
Hidden 17/May/92 Lead
John Southworth 04/Mar/92 Solo RP

Had just failed to lead - pumped placing gear. Soloing is far easier.

nai ??/1992 Lead
Hidden ??/1992 Lead
Hidden 17/Oct/90 2nd
John Marsland 24/Jul/90 Lead dog
with Eduardo Martinez
jfletcher 06/May/90 Lead
Pete Pozman 27/Mar/90 Lead rpt
with John Byrne
Rich Kirby ?/Feb/90 -
Marti999 ??/1990 Lead
Hidden ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1990 Lead
craig h 04/Jun/89 Lead
Dave Musgrove Jnr 28/Jan/89 -
with Dad
Dave Musgrove 28/Jan/89 -
with David
Hidden ??/1988 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 09/Jul/87 Lead O/S
Pete Pozman 04/Apr/86 Lead rpt
with Mark Gray
Andy Say 11/Sep/85 Lead O/S
bullybones ??/1985 Lead
Roy Stuart ??/1984 Lead
hazeysunshine ??/1983 2nd O/S
charlesmfrench 27/Feb/82 2nd O/S
with Ian Milne
Hidden 03/Jun/79 Lead
uphillnow ??/1979 -
Mark Kemball 20/Nov/77 Lead dnf
Dave Musgrove 14/Nov/76 Lead

Significant in that this was my 100th visit to Almscliff. Several other regular VS classics climbed.

Hidden ??/1971 Solo O/S
greenbuoy 19/Jul/70 2nd
Dave Musgrove 10/Oct/68 2nd
with Tom Morrell
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High E1
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High HVS
High VS
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Low VS
Votes cast 100
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
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Votes cast 91
Votes cast 87
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set