Rockfax Description
The middle finger-crack leads to the cave - worthwhile at solid HVS 5b. A tricky traverse left and technical wall gain a ledge on the arete. Trend rightwards more easily to finish. © Rockfax

FFA. Steve Bancroft 1976

Ticklists: Monopoly.

Sam Simpson 16/Nov Lead O/S
ndraper1 16/Nov 2nd O/S

sam showed the jammy way (pffft!), face climbing was awesome

with Sam
soph 01/Oct Lead rpt

In one pitch, started up left crack, super hot!

with Fabrizio Della Rossa, Heliya
David Kay 26/Aug Lead O/S

The lower crack is fairly stiff at HVS 5b. Got some good gear in at the left end of the cave before teetering out into the unknown. Got half way through the crux sequence and decided I didn't want to go much further without placing some gear. I faffed around for ages on the poor finger locks placing a nut and getting quite pumped in the process. I then instantly regretted this when I made one more move up into a much better balanced position. Realising how pumped I was I spent a while here shaking out on the half rest before making one more easy move to the ledge and hands off rest. The climbing was great but an epic faff for me today.

Hidden 31/Jul 2nd rpt
max_chan 16/Jul 2nd O/S

P2 only

Graeme Hammond 16/Jul Lead rpt

Via Oxford Street this time

ian d f 11/Jul Lead O/S
with Mark S, Tor
Hidden 11/Jul 2nd
Hidden 11/Jul 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Jun Lead O/S
bigdrew 27/Jun 2nd rpt
with Eve
tim newton 21/Jun 2nd rpt
Rachel Slater 21/Jun Lead O/S
Alistair Corbett 06/Jun Lead O/S
with Sam hamer
MYox 04/Jun AltLd O/S

Led the 5c pitch (first E2?). Found the step out worrying, but relatively mild. The crux for me was pulling on the finger jam through the crack - still not sure of my technique. Good, but not great, climbing.

with Trevor
Dibdawg 15/May Lead O/S
with Richard Snow
fifth 13/May -

On the second and found it hard but got it clean. The lead would be another matter

with Gav
gavinpeach 13/May Lead

Great route. Fell off on my first attempt on the crux as I lost my composure due to the exposure; so close too. Feels run out on the crux but totally safe to fall from with a bomber nut at the start of the traverse. Got the crux moves on the next attempt but still a little scary until I managed to place a nut in the crack. Did in 1 pitch. Part 2 was clean following the fall; So if it's a 2 pitch route effectively an onsight of p1 and a ground up of pitch 2.

with Scott
phil64 10/May Lead rpt

Great jamming on lower followed by tricky pull out on top wall

with mike cox
afern 10/May 2nd O/S
Misha 02/May Lead O/S

Challenging with cold hands! Sheltered from the wind but below 10 degrees so had to keep trying to warm the fingers up on the HVS section. That has two hard bits and seemed pretty hard for HVS, didn't climb it very well, limited finger functionality is my excuse! According to the guide book, I did it to the cave in 2007 but couldn't remember anything about it. Great exposed section going out of the cave, short but exciting and packs some good moves in. I dropped down to foot traverse a little below the level of the cave, then moved up into the thin finger crack. Struggled to fiddle in a couple of micros from a tricky position then made a fairly straightforward move up and got a good hold, typical! Andrew seconded in the drizzle and it got worse after that so we ran away to Chee Dale.

with Andrew
Andy Peak 1 22/Mar Lead

Fantastic never get tired of this:-)

with Kevin Rasin
mapperley samurai 22/Mar 2nd
ashtond6 20/Mar Lead rpt

Really fun!

robertmctague 07/Feb Lead O/S

Pitch 1, HVS.

soph 18/Nov/14 Lead rpt
with Karel Snoek
M_Robinson 09/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with Ian Robinson
rurp 30/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Hard work on crack but solid jams. Traverse quite scary out left, got a bit shaky. Final moves on vs great fun and relief!

with bill farmer
onlyfoddington 07/Sep/14 2nd dog

My real mission was to get to the cave in one - which I managed although I found it tough and tiring (first successful 5b jamming pitch?). With some handy beta from Michael I eventually made a reasonable attempt and barn-doored after getting the other side of the diagonal crack. I was very pleased that I managed it relatively smoothly the second try. Did not finish up the arete.

with Michael
pearson9596 07/Sep/14 Lead dog
dannyboy83 27/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Lena, Ben Corbey, Sky
lena.drapella 27/Aug/14 2nd dog
with Sky, dannyboy
Hannes B 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Phil
French Erick 25/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Alex Heude
Brannock 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Tried this before but wimped out at the cave, this time all the way to the top, good route.

Mattlamb90 05/Jul/14 2nd O/S

Good effort ry

with Ryan
spidey 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with mat lamb
jonleighton 28/Jun/14 2nd dnf

P1 only

Hidden 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
mrteale 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with MrBlond
MrBIond 21/Jun/14 2nd
Serena Lambre 21/Jun/14 2nd dog
with mrteale
deacondeacon 17/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Poor choice for a warm up route, hot, greasy and midge but it went ok. couldn't place gear at the crux as I was greasing off so had to crack on to the arete. Didn't feel like it deserved two stars to me but perhaps in nicer conditions it'll feel better. Ran away from the midgies for a solo/boulder on Owler Tor.

Hidden 12/Jun/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 06/Jun/14 AltLd β
ashtond6 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S

awesome crack section, surely the crack is E1? Sustained and at least 2 5b moves on it. A new ab point has been installed in the cave

Mark Grist 01/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Paul Tanton
PaulTanton 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Led this in one pitch. Quite tough for the grade. Getting established on the top crack is a tricky sequence and then there's a balancey move up the wall. Hard for E2 I'd say.

alp79 01/Jun/14 2nd dog

Found this v hard work, lots of falls and rests

Hidden 25/May/14 Lead rpt
phil64 16/May/14 2nd
with dave
Hidden 03/May/14 TR
WillDoyle 17/Apr/14 Lead
tim newton 15/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with patrick green
Hidden 13/Apr/14 TR
irish paul 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S
nai 13/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Mark
uphillnow ??/2014 -
Brown ??/2014 Lead
with James T
Matthew Ferrier 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Led both pitches but brought Alex up to the cave after the first. 2nd pitch is outrageously good, just ignore the slight spoiling by the ledge on the arete.

Brannock 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S

P1 only, really good, didint fancy second pitch.

Hidden 06/Oct/13 2nd O/S
cobweb 05/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

I did first pitch but freaked out seeing rusty peg to protect hard bit. Roger found bomber nut pro ! Made all the difference! Note to self - keep calm and use your eyes!

with Roger Waterworth
masa-alpin 10/Sep/13 Lead O/S

P2 only, after (HVS) crack of Oxford Street.

with James O
James Oswald 10/Sep/13 2nd O/S

After Masa struggled to reach the holds on Oxford St (hence did 1st pitch of Oxford St). The climbing on the crack was tough.

with Masa
WillDoyle 06/Jul/13 2nd
with Mike
Tony Holdsworth 04/Jul/13 2nd dog

Pulled on gear twice.

with Peter Harris
WB 16/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Guy
JakeWShaw 10/Apr/13 2nd dog

Kept pumping out at the top of the crack I need more stamina! Fell again at the crux as it was a tad damp!

benkelsey 10/Apr/13 Lead O/S

as a warm up. dirty cave, wet crucial holds. sorry to jake pulling him about on the second.

Nick Sillem ??/2013 -
John Gale ??/2013 2nd β
ejected ??/2013 -
jshields 27/Oct/12 2nd
Hidden 27/Oct/12 2nd dog
Hidden 26/Oct/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Oct/12 2nd rpt
Helen Gibson 20/Oct/12 Lead rpt

1st pitch only

with Paul
SPD224 20/Oct/12 2nd
with Jim Hardwick, Martin Smith
Dizz 14/Oct/12 2nd

Harder than it looks!

with Ali, David B
Hidden 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/12 2nd O/S
climbingpixie 22/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Andy
Hidden 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
DavidR 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 18/Jul/12 Lead rpt

In one pitch

with Jim
Hidden 12/Jul/12 Lead
Graeme Hammond 11/Jul/12 Lead dog

completely messed up and fell off as i clipped the gear after the crux. Bugger will have to come back and this is really soft for e2 as well :o

Andy Peak 1 09/Jul/12 Lead
tuftynick 06/Jun/12 2nd rpt
with miles gibson
Hidden 06/Jun/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 20/May/12 -
Dave Turnbull, BMC 24/Apr/12 AltLd

Led 2nd pitch

with Mick Ryan
Howard Lawledge ?/Apr/12 Lead
Shauna 11/Mar/12 2nd rpt
with Jules
JulesV 11/Mar/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 09/Mar/12 Lead O/S
mwatson 21/Feb/12 2nd O/S
with johnny
pmurdy 19/Feb/12 2nd O/S
with Jonny Reay
JRae 19/Feb/12 Lead
drcorbasisgod ?/Jan/12 Lead dnf

Started snowing when I got to the cave!!

with Marc Weisner
maddy.c ??/2012 Lead
Mr Wild ??/2012 2nd
with Greg
Si dH 29/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Placing a nut in that thin crack was a bit intense.

with Olly
Hidden 29/Oct/11 2nd rpt
Joughton 26/Oct/11 2nd O/S
bigdrew 22/Oct/11 2nd O/S
with Mark R
mark20 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Phill Mitch 07/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with gaz
richiebongo ?/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Gwen Thomson
rd20 11/Sep/11 2nd dog

Managed first HVS section cleanly this time, but like the Robert the Bruce's spider needed six attempts at moving from the cave to the arete

GarethHall 11/Sep/11 Lead RP
rd20 10/Sep/11 2nd dog

Came off first HVS section, then came off first attempt at coming out of the cave

Hidden ?/Sep/11 -
Hidden 24/Aug/11 Lead O/S
WillDoyle 20/Aug/11 2nd dog

Hadn't slept.

Coel Hellier 19/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 14/Aug/11 Lead rpt
tonanf ?/Aug/11 Lead
belay bunny turned bad 27/Jun/11 Lead O/S
dan gibson 27/Jun/11 Lead O/S
jamiev 26/Jun/11 2nd β

Very good.

with Audrey Seguy
simon1965 24/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Great route in three distinct sections, hard HVS, delicate crux e2 then super bold vs. Did in one pitch.

with Tim L
Hidden 24/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Shauna 16/Apr/11 2nd rpt
with Jules
JulesV 16/Apr/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 13/Apr/11 Lead
steve_yo 13/Apr/11 2nd
with smooth
Hidden 10/Apr/11 Lead
gingerwolf 03/Apr/11 Lead O/S

P1 only, at HVS

Hidden ??/2011 -
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
Hidden 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Oct/10 Lead rpt
Milne 12/Oct/10 2nd O/S

nice moves out of cave.

Hidden 16/Sep/10 Lead dog
al99 31/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Led in 1 pitch! Thought the bottom crack was stiff for HVS. The moves on the face and the unprotected romp up the arete are awesome!

Hidden 31/Aug/10 2nd
pete87abs 16/Aug/10 Lead O/S

just the hvs to half height

highrepute 07/Aug/10 Lead O/S
mattwyles1 ?/Aug/10 Lead β

First pitch only, with Scotts gear preclipped.

Dave Foster 23/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Lead P1 previously, ran it all into one today. Top section was all a bit gripping, would've ended up at Higgar Tor if I'd've blown it near the top.

with Andy
Jonathan Hall 11/Jun/10 Lead
with Jane Rigby
JRigby ?/Jun/10 2nd
Hidden 31/May/10 Lead O/S
John Pickles 27/May/10 2nd
with Kieran Hodgson
Hidden 09/May/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/May/10 Lead
markalmack 28/Apr/10 2nd β
Hidden 28/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Apr/10 2nd
Adam Potter 22/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Scary coming after the cave

Hidden 20/Apr/10 2nd
Dave Warburton 13/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Lead it one pitch so ran it out to prevent rope drag. Thought the top was pretty good value for HS?

Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
gingerwolf 01/Dec/09 Lead O/S

with gear in

Ben1983 15/Nov/09 AltLd O/S

Jamie p1 me p2

Hidden 28/Oct/09 AltLd
BrettB 23/Oct/09 Lead
Hidden 15/Oct/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Sep/09 Lead
Pete Graham ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
LoopyLou 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Brilliant route. Starting crack has easy to read but pumpy moves up to the cave. Nice rest. The traverse out left and up the finger crack is obvious but fingery asnd committing - not exactly a hand rail! Reward is an easy romp to finish. A good route to try if you are pushing your grade as very safe gear.

with Helen Lear
Hidden 20/Jun/09 TR
Hidden 30/May/09 2nd
mike lawrence? 26/May/09 2nd

slipped on first pitch and fell rushing the 2nd pitch, reversed it and did it clean

with FatRob
Boy 08/May/09 -

Led as one long pitch

with Nige Kershaw
Hidden 21/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Clee 18/Apr/09 2nd
with Steve
Hidden 18/Apr/09 Lead rpt
Different Steve 18/Apr/09 Lead O/S

P1 only - very sustained!

with Clio & Tom
overexposure 05/Apr/09 TR dog

1st pitch only at HVS 5b. Learning to finger jam. went better than expected...

thomasadixon 01/Apr/09 Lead O/S

First section/pitch is nails, second went fairly easily.

with Becca
BeccaSnowden 01/Apr/09 2nd
with Tom
Alex Mason 24/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Quite hard until you step down, nice route

andy gravestock 24/Mar/09 2nd β

i good route to get warmed up with although couldnt feel my fingers tops moves fairly hard.

JWB 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S

1st pitch only at HVS 5b.

with Mike278
mike278 15/Mar/09 2nd O/S

First pitch only

with JWB
Hidden 11/Mar/09 2nd rpt
Hidden 11/Mar/09 Lead dog
Michael Ryan ??/2009 -

To Cave: HVS

with Donna Claridge
Dave Foster 22/Nov/08 Lead O/S

P1 and ab'd off. Great climbing, tough final moves.

with Andy
Hidden 31/Aug/08 Lead dnf
OffshoreAndy 27/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Works Frasier
Hidden 22/Jul/08 2nd O/S
Cragrat Rich 10/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Went ok. First crack needs respect but came easy compared to top half, which was scary to start (despite good friends in cave exit), became insecure and then produced solid wires for top moves to shelf. Got caught out by some bad rope drag. Very pleasing ascent for me

Hidden 10/Jun/08 Lead O/S
mattyork2 07/Jun/08 Lead dnf

Got a little bit scared on this. Lat bit of really solid gear was at the top of the hvs and eventually fell off onto a poor nut that I sketched into the traversing finger crack, as I was trying to rock up poorly onto the ledge. Get back on it Matt.

BenJacobs 06/Jun/08 2nd dog

first pitch only. found this as hard as Regent Street, Probably was just tired. still enjoyable though

with Dave and Nick
morganator 05/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Ivan Green
Tommy G ?/Jun/08 2nd dog
with Tom P
Hidden 29/May/08 Lead rpt
Hidden 23/May/08 Lead rpt
Creep_pea 14/May/08 TR O/S

Too Cave only

with Andy
alaan 09/May/08 Lead O/S
with Oli
Oli 09/May/08 2nd O/S
with Alan
Hidden 08/May/08 Lead
Dan 85 06/Mar/08 2nd O/S
with Nicos
Alex Mason 04/Nov/07 Lead O/S

first pitch warm-up.

with Andy Reeve
Brian Rodgers 21/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 22/Aug/07 Lead rpt
with Tom Randall
lukea 28/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Rich
Hidden 10/Jul/07 Lead
UndercoverElephant ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/May/07 Lead O/S
Nicos 06/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with dan woolnough
Hidden ??/2007 -
datoon ??/2007 Lead O/S
with MJ
Andrew Sloan 29/Oct/06 2nd dog
lukea 14/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with dan
lukea 14/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with dan
Martin Haworth ?/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with Andy
Hidden ?/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May/06 Lead dog
AJ007 14/Apr/06 2nd dnf

1st pitch only

feilx ?/Dec/05 AltLd O/S

lead the 1st pitch

shark 25/Sep/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/05 AltLd
Hidden 30/May/05 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/2005 -
nickdonohue ?/May/04 Lead

Did 1st pitch only to the cave (5b)

with Jim Barradale
Hidden 02/Mar/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/02 Lead
Hidden ??/2002 -
Hidden 16/Aug/01 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/May/01 TR O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
tlr ??/2000 Lead
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
Carl Smethurst 21/Aug/99 Lead dog
with Ian Pickles
Hidden 28/Apr/99 AltLd
chris sm ?/May/97 AltLd dnf

Rained halfway up the route.

with Andy Gill
Roget 21/Apr/96 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden 06/Jul/95 Lead
ste_d 14/May/95 AltLd O/S
with mik
Dave Musgrove 02/Sep/94 AltLd
with David
Hidden 26/Jun/94 Lead O/S
andybirtwistle 02/Oct/93 AltLd
with Steve Brewis
mikedelderfield 12/May/93 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Apr/93 Lead
Stoney Boy 15/Apr/93 Lead O/S

Pitch 1

with Bob Marks
NickJH ??/1993 Lead β
with JOwen
Hammy 19/Apr/92 2nd
with Fai Kwong, Mandy Kwong
Hidden 11/Apr/92 Lead
craig d ??/1992 -
Hidden 20/Jun/91 Lead
Steve Crowe 12/May/91 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/90 Lead
Hidden ?/May/90 AltLd
Alan James - UKC and UKH 18/May/89 Lead
with Nigel Boothroyd
Rich Kirby ??/1989 Lead O/S
with The General (P.Henderson)
Hidden 28/Mar/88 AltLd
Bruce Kerr 01/Nov/87 Lead
with Dave Simmonds
Hidden 31/Aug/87 Lead
John Marsland 13/Jun/87 Lead dnf

1st pitch only

Hidden ??/1987 -
sadams ?/Sep/86 AltLd
with Mark Bonham
keefe 03/Aug/86 -
with Johnny Adams
andy gittins ??/1985 -
GuyM ??/1985 -
Hidden ??/1985 Lead
TonyF 10/Jun/82 Lead O/S
with Steve Andrews
Mark Kemball 22/Feb/82 AltLd
with Bill McKee
Ian Jones ??/1982 Lead
with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC ?/Jul/80 2nd

Date a guess

with Phil Smith
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Robmwatt ??/1980 -
Robmwatt ??/1980 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
leoch01, Hidden, Bernie L, gavinpeach, daWalt, alexjz, Owen W-G, pc1983, whitehouse_rhys, drcorbasisgod, Ragnaar, Hidden, Michael Hood, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, tonanf
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 48
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 46
Votes cast 45
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set