Rockfax Description
The off-width crack at the right-hand side of the wall leads to a small overhang - big cams and big hams help. The wall above the overhang is much easier and the exit is loose. © Rockfax

FAA. Peter Biven, Trevor Peck 1956. FFA. Jim Campbell 1967

Ticklists: Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Millstone HVS's, Millstone * HVS In a day, WideBoyz Crack School.

FlavioL1989 17/Oct Lead G/U
Hidden 11/Oct Lead
planetmarshall 11/Oct 2nd

Fierce, though Clive made it look easy with his massive off-width hands. I had to layback the lower portion. A bit sandy in places and could benefit from more traffic, which it deserves.

with Clive Betteridge
max_chan 16/Jul 2nd O/S
Graeme Hammond 16/Jul Lead O/S

put this off for year, but really enjoyed, great route worth 2** s

rich_hw 16/Jul Lead O/S
with Mike
Hidden 11/Jul 2nd
Hidden 28/Jun 2nd rpt
Hidden 28/Jun Lead O/S
Nevil 18/Jun Lead
with Mike
djones66 07/Jun 2nd

Good stuff! But... l have small hands so couldnt get any jams into the lower crack. Had to lay off it to the right - decidedly precarious. Brilliant jams on the 'crux' sequence.

with Stve mc D
MYox 05/Jun 2nd dog

Actually quite good. And great jamming practice . Fell at the overhang but was tired.

with Trevor
Dibdawg 15/May Lead dog

Unexpected slip and a blown o/s.

with Richard Snow
Sam Simpson 09/May Lead O/S
ashtond6 20/Mar Lead O/S

Really really really good, nice warm up and probably E2 in Wales though haha

dr_botnik 20/Mar 2nd

Went for lead but couldnt get the jams in lowercrack. Laybacked up it on the right on second. Precarious and sustained above.

Nick Russell 26/Oct/14 2nd dog

I found the start distinctly unpleasant. Hung on a cam to remove the nut Jamie fell on - required 2 hands and a proper hammering.

with Jamie
zcsharp 26/Oct/14 Lead dog

Fell on coming through the overhang, once i had a few attempts it wasn't too bad.

mark4344 14/Sep/14 Lead dog

brutal jamming, felt tough for grade.

with Matt Payne
robgixer 13/Sep/14 2nd β
Leo Woodhead 03/Aug/14 2nd dog

Found this harder than Regent street which I did straight after. Obviously two very different routes. It really shows that I need to get some off width/fist jamming practice!

with Jim Rogers
islandlynx 02/Jul/14 Lead dog

Rest route, just fist jamming with my fat hands. Fell on crux coming out of the little roof

jonleighton 28/Jun/14 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 17/Jun/14 Solo O/S
Brannock 01/Jun/14 Lead

Harder than regent street? Classic grit sandbag HVS.

Hidden 01/Jun/14 2nd dog
alexjz 22/Mar/14 Lead RP

I can't do fist jams very well. Nice route

Hidden 09/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Mar/14 2nd
uphillnow ??/2014 -
amccann 06/Oct/13 2nd β
tprebs 05/Oct/13 2nd O/S

classic grit hvs

with John O'Hara, Tim O Hanrahan
Lenny 08/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Awesome Route..

with Kev
shouter 24/Jul/13 Lead
Andy Fielding 30/Jun/13 Lead
with Mike Walton
Hidden 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/May/13 Lead O/S
MikeLeeds 19/May/13 2nd O/S

Horrible, brutal

with Kevin Bowser
henry peter jenkins 06/May/13 2nd
will_benfold 04/May/13 Lead dnf
spacecadetjake 01/May/13 2nd dnf

Awesome Crack, got past the roof and fell too many times. Brutal

with henry peter jenkins, Robbie jenkins
ejected ??/2013 -
andybirtwistle 21/Oct/12 Lead
Kirill 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Very good.

cem 20/Oct/12 2nd rpt

As unpleasant as ever

sopaz 29/Sep/12 2nd
danfitz 10/Sep/12 Lead dog
with Georgie Smith
R0bbie 11/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Andy Peak 1 09/Jul/12 Lead
Dave Foster 18/Mar/12 2nd O/S

One of 'those' HVS'. Butch, Burly, Barbaric - but quite good.

with Robin
robin_hackney 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S

What a pig! Awkward.

mike lawrence? 01/Mar/12 Lead
with luca
Pete Graham 01/Mar/12 2nd
Dan Mckinlay ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
knicos 02/Dec/11 Lead
with Paul Salmon
Paul1 02/Dec/11 2nd

Tryed to lead thinking it looked easyer than it was. Seconded clean.

with Nick
Dirk Uhlig 04/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/11 Lead O/S
lozowen 01/Jul/11 Lead
with Chris Howard
Hidden 14/Jun/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 01/May/11 2nd dnf
PAJames ??/2011 -
riddle 09/Oct/10 Lead dog
rustaldo 22/Sep/10 Lead O/S

a tough climb to crack, "bovine-jams" as the book describes is very accurate! dodgy onsight.

with Al
Somerset swede basher 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S


with Jon Miles and Lawrence
r@bag 28/Aug/10 2nd dog
Hidden 28/Aug/10 2nd
The Mountain Goat 28/Aug/10 2nd dnf
Tightsgirl 17/Aug/10 2nd
with German Mountain Joe, Emily Anniballi
Pown 21/Jul/10 Lead O/S
harold walmsley 15/Jun/10 2nd β
with Colin Struthers
Andrew Sloan 11/Apr/10 Lead dog

I'd give this E1 5c, an absolute pig.

Hidden 11/Apr/10 2nd
simonp ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Nate Mcmullen
gronbech 28/Mar/10 Lead dog
with Tom
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
Ewano ??/2010 TR
melonmike 15/Oct/09 2nd
with Big Steve, Jack Metcalfe
Hidden 15/Oct/09 2nd O/S
PeteH 05/Oct/09 2nd O/S

Pretty pumpy! Shame about the top-out.

with Brad Cain
jonka ?/Sep/09 Lead
with mark
mark sadler ?/Sep/09 2nd
with john
jchenoweth 15/Aug/09 Lead dog
with Tash
tigertim 13/Aug/09 2nd
with Tony Payne, Dave Reeve
Dave Reeve 13/Aug/09 Lead
Hidden 11/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Rob Davies ?/Jul/09 2nd

Left this to Phil - fist jams seem to get harder. Might be 5a only if you have very big hands, otherwise a struggle

with Phil Ashton
Hidden 25/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Apr/09 2nd O/S
metal arms 11/Apr/09 Lead dog
Hidden 22/Mar/09 Lead O/S
summo ??/2009 -
john lynch 17/Oct/08 Lead
with Lewis Andrew
clive-greenwood 13/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Rachael Barlow 29/Aug/08 2nd
with Phil Robins
Hidden 11/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/08 -
Brian Rodgers 10/May/08 2nd
with Neil Hillis
Mick r 10/Feb/08 Lead dog

why did I choose this as my first route of the year - horrible

Alex Mason 09/Feb/08 Lead O/S

lead on micks gear burly hvs

with mick radford
AndrewJenkins ??/2008 -
kingholmesy ??/2008 2nd O/S
with SJD
Sean Kelly ??/2008 -
roberto18 ??/2008 -
marceli 11/Nov/07 Lead dog
with majkel
Andrew Sloan 29/Jul/07 Lead dog
timharrison 22/May/07 Lead dnf
Whitt 10/Mar/07 TR RP
with (Shunted)
Hidden ??/2007 -
chrisbevins ??/2007 Lead O/S
adam carless 29/Oct/06 Lead O/S

Big fists and forearms are definitely an advantage for the first crack. Top is very loose.

SecretSquirrel 29/Oct/06 2nd
John Marsland 16/Sep/06 2nd rpt
with Goi
goi.ashmore 16/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with John Marsland
Hidden 22/Jul/06 2nd
Hidden 22/Jul/06 AltLd
Nicos 24/Jun/06 Lead O/S
reg_measures 14/May/06 Lead rpt
with Richard Sharpe
dan gibson 14/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
AJ007 14/Mar/06 Lead
with Dan
Hidden 11/Feb/06 Lead
Brown 20/Jan/06 2nd
with Henry
UndercoverElephant ??/2006 Lead O/S
Bern ??/2006 -
Hidden 11/Aug/05 2nd
Adam Potter 23/Apr/05 AltLd dog

Lead 1st half. 2nd the second half

Hidden 28/Mar/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/04 Lead
shark 01/Sep/04 Lead
with Jon Winter
lukea 12/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with shannon
Budge 13/May/04 Lead O/S
nickdonohue ?/May/04 2nd
with Jim Barradale
Rik Dawes ??/2004 Lead O/S
Andy Chubb 07/Aug/03 Lead
with Bill Wheeler
Leofallon 28/Jun/03 2nd
nbotting ??/2003 -
reg_measures 12/Oct/02 Lead dog

one rest

with hugh thomas
Hidden ??/2002 -
martroberts ?/Jul/01 Lead O/S
cem 29/Apr/01 Lead dog
with Miles Butteriss
howifeel ??/2001 Lead O/S

this is a lovely fighting sort of route with new interest each move up.

with James
Roget 28/Aug/00 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Dave
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
ArnaudG ??/1999 -
Hidden ??/1996 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/95 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Apr/94 Lead
IanD353 ?/Jun/93 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
AB1965 21/Jul/92 Lead
Hidden 01/Sep/91 2nd O/S
lithos ?/Aug/90 2nd
with mark planner
Nick Rundall ??/1990 2nd O/S
phil64 ??/1990 Lead O/S
surfbish ?/Apr/88 Lead O/S
BRUCESTRAC ??/1988 -
with Chris Cracknell,Various
Rob Davies 25/May/87 Lead
Steve Crowe 16/May/87 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May/87 Lead
steve taylor ??/1987 Lead
Pete Pozman 07/Jun/86 Lead O/S
with John Byrne
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Tom V ??/1984 -
charlesmfrench 29/May/83 Lead O/S
Gezzer ??/1983 -
with Andy Towne
TonyF 01/May/82 Lead O/S
with George Fowler, Alistair Gordon, Tony Cox
Ian Jones ??/1982 Lead
with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc
babymoac 13/Jun/81 Lead
with MTW
Hidden 20/Apr/80 2nd
Hidden 02/Mar/80 Lead
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Hidden ?/Apr/79 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove 26/Jun/77 AltLd
Mark Kemball 27/Nov/76 Lead
Al Evans ??/1976 -
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC ??/1976 -
petemeads 16/Mar/74 Lead
Hidden ??/1967 2nd
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
gavinpeach, leoch01, alexanderjwatts, Hidden, SuperLee1985, kim.mulji, djdf, Hidden
High E1
Mid E1
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High VS
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Low VS
Votes cast 36
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 38
Votes cast 34
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set