Shaftesbury Avenue* HVS 5b
[Working the fist crack before sending, 3 kb]20m.

Rockfax Description
The off-width crack at the right-hand side of the wall leads to a small overhang - big cams and big hams help. The wall above the overhang is much easier and the exit is loose. © ROCKFAX


FAA. Peter Biven, Trevor Peck 1956. FFA. Jim Campbell 1967

Ticklists: Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Millstone HVS's, WideBoyz Crack School.

Photo: Working the fist crack before sending © islandlynx
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 175 logbooks, and on 8 wishlists.

max_chan - 2nd O/S - 16/Jul/15 with Graeme Hammond

put this off for year, but really enjoyed, great route worth 2** s
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/15 with Matt Fennelow

rich_hw - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/15 with Mike

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Jul/15

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 28/Jun/15

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/15

Hidden - Lead - 18/Jun/15

Good stuff! But... l have small hands so couldnt get any jams into the lower crack. Had to lay off it to the right - decidedly precarious. Brilliant jams on the 'crux' sequence.
djones66 - 2nd - 07/Jun/15 with Stve mc D

Actually quite good. And great jamming practice . Fell at the overhang but was tired.
MYox - 2nd dog - 05/Jun/15 with Trevor

Unexpected slip and a blown o/s.
Dibdawg - Lead dog - 15/May/15 with Richard Snow

Sam Simpson - Lead O/S - 09/May/15 with Tom Doldon

Really really really good, nice warm up and probably E2 in Wales though haha
ashtond6 - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/15

Went for lead but couldnt get the jams in lowercrack. Laybacked up it on the right on second. Precarious and sustained above.
dr_botnik - 2nd - 20/Mar/15 with andrew mackie, Andy

I found the start distinctly unpleasant. Hung on a cam to remove the nut Jamie fell on - required 2 hands and a proper hammering.
Nick Russell - 2nd dog - 26/Oct/14 with Jamie

Fell on coming through the overhang, once i had a few attempts it wasn't too bad.
zcsharp - Lead dog - 26/Oct/14 with Nick Russell

brutal jamming, felt tough for grade.
mark4344 - Lead dog - 14/Sep/14 with Matt Payne

robgixer - 2nd β - 13/Sep/14

Found this harder than Regent street which I did straight after. Obviously two very different routes. It really shows that I need to get some off width/fist jamming practice!
Leo Woodhead - 2nd dog - 03/Aug/14 with Jim Rogers

Rest route, just fist jamming with my fat hands. Fell on crux coming out of the little roof
islandlynx - Lead dog - 02/Jul/14 with Dan simonis

jonleighton - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/14

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - 17/Jun/14

Harder than regent street? Classic grit sandbag HVS.
Brannock - Lead - 01/Jun/14

Hidden - 2nd dog - 01/Jun/14

I can't do fist jams very well. Nice route
alexjz - Lead RP - 22/Mar/14 with Murilo Lessa

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/14

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Mar/14

uphillnow - 2014

amccann - 2nd β - 06/Oct/13

classic grit hvs
tprebs - 2nd O/S - 05/Oct/13 with John O'Hara, Tim O Hanrahan

Awesome Route..
Lenny - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/13 with Kev

shouter - Lead - 24/Jul/13

Andy Fielding - Lead - 30/Jun/13 with Mike Walton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/May/13

Horrible, brutal
MikeLeeds - 2nd O/S - 19/May/13 with Kevin Bowser

henry peter jenkins - 2nd - 06/May/13 with jake mcmanus, robbie jenkins

will_benfold - Lead dnf - 04/May/13 with Chris Allan

Awesome Crack, got past the roof and fell too many times. Brutal
spacecadetjake - 2nd dnf - 01/May/13 with henry peter jenkins, Robbie jenkins

ejected - 2013

andybirtwistle - Lead - 21/Oct/12

Very good.
Kirill - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/12 with Charles Moreton

As unpleasant as ever
cem - 2nd rpt - 20/Oct/12 with Kirill Spiridonov

sopaz - 2nd - 29/Sep/12

danfitz - Lead dog - 10/Sep/12 with Georgie Smith

R0bbie - 2nd O/S - 11/Jul/12 with Taba, Leighn Chambers

Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 09/Jul/12

One of 'those' HVS'. Butch, Burly, Barbaric - but quite good.
Dave Foster - 2nd O/S - 18/Mar/12 with Robin

What a pig! Awkward.
robin_hackney - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/12 with Dave Foster

mike lawrence? - Lead - 01/Mar/12 with luca

Pete Graham - 2nd - 01/Mar/12 with Malcolm Scott

Dan Mckinlay - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

knicos - Lead - 02/Dec/11 with Paul Salmon

Tryed to lead thinking it looked easyer than it was. Seconded clean.
Paul1 - 2nd - 02/Dec/11 with Nick

Dirk Uhlig - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/11

lozowen - Lead - 01/Jul/11 with Chris Howard

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 14/Jun/11

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 01/May/11

PAJames - 2011

riddle - Lead dog - 09/Oct/10 with Mike Stephenson

a tough climb to crack, "bovine-jams" as the book describes is very accurate! dodgy onsight.
rustaldo - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/10 with Al

Hard
Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Jon Miles and Lawrence

r@bag - 2nd dog - 28/Aug/10 with Dom Sellars

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Aug/10

The Mountain Goat - 2nd dnf - 28/Aug/10

Tightsgirl - 2nd - 17/Aug/10 with German Mountain Joe, Emily Anniballi

Pown - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/10

harold walmsley - 2nd β - 15/Jun/10 with Colin Struthers

I'd give this E1 5c, an absolute pig.
Andrew Sloan - Lead dog - 11/Apr/10

simonp - Lead O/S - Apr/10 with Nate Mcmullen

gronbech - Lead dog - 28/Mar/10 with Tom

Seymore Butt - 2010

Ewano - TR - 2010

melonmike - 2nd - 15/Oct/09 with Big Steve, Jack Metcalfe

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Oct/09

Pretty pumpy! Shame about the top-out.
PeteH - 2nd O/S - 05/Oct/09 with Brad Cain

jonka - Lead - Sep/09 with mark

mark sadler - 2nd - Sep/09 with john

jchenoweth - Lead dog - 15/Aug/09 with Tash

tigertim - 2nd - 13/Aug/09 with Tony Payne, Dave Reeve

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Apr/09

metal arms - Lead dog - 11/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/09

summo - 2009

john lynch - Lead - 17/Oct/08 with Lewis Andrew

clive-greenwood - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/08

Rachael Barlow - 2nd - 29/Aug/08 with Phil Robins

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/08

Hidden - Aug/08

Brian Rodgers - 2nd - 10/May/08 with Neil Hillis

why did I choose this as my first route of the year - horrible
Mick r - Lead dog - 10/Feb/08 with Cragdog al

lead on micks gear burly hvs
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 09/Feb/08 with mick radford

AndrewJenkins - 2008

kingholmesy - 2nd O/S - 2008 with SJD

Sean Kelly - 2008

roberto18 - 2008

marceli - Lead dog - 11/Nov/07 with majkel

Andrew Sloan - Lead dog - 29/Jul/07

timharrison - Lead dnf - 22/May/07 with Hedley Proctor

Whitt - TR RP - 10/Mar/07 with (Shunted)

Hidden - 2007

chrisbevins - Lead O/S - 2007

Big fists and forearms are definitely an advantage for the first crack. Top is very loose.
adam carless - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/06 with SecretSquirrel

SecretSquirrel - 2nd - 29/Oct/06 with adam carless

John Marsland - 2nd rpt - 16/Sep/06 with Goi

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/06 with John Marsland

ChrisJD - 2nd - 22/Jul/06 with rc

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Jul/06

Nicos - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/06 with rich howels

reg_measures - Lead rpt - 14/May/06 with Richard Sharpe

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/06 with helen gibson

AJ007 - Lead - 14/Mar/06 with Dan

ChrisJD - Lead - 11/Feb/06 with rc

Brown - 2nd - 20/Jan/06 with Henry

UndercoverElephant - Lead O/S - 2006

Bern - 2006

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Aug/05

Lead 1st half. 2nd the second half
Adam Potter - AltLd dog - 23/Apr/05

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/05

Hidden - Lead - 18/Sep/04

shark - Lead - 01/Sep/04 with Jon Winter

lukea - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/04 with shannon

Budge - Lead O/S - 13/May/04 with Carl Tiivas

nickdonohue - 2nd - May/04 with Jim Barradale

Rik Dawes - Lead O/S - 2004

Andy Chubb - Lead - 07/Aug/03 with Bill Wheeler

Leofallon - 2nd - 28/Jun/03

nbotting - 2003

one rest
reg_measures - Lead dog - 12/Oct/02 with hugh thomas

Hidden - 2002

martroberts - Lead O/S - Jul/01

cem - Lead dog - 29/Apr/01 with Miles Butteriss

this is a lovely fighting sort of route with new interest each move up.
howifeel - Lead O/S - 2001 with James

Roget - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/00

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2000

marcoleptic - Lead O/S - 2000 with Dave

ArnaudG - 1999

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1996

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/95

ChrisJD - Lead - 28/Apr/94 with AlB

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/93

Hidden - Lead - 1993

AB1965 - Lead - 21/Jul/92

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/91

lithos - 2nd - Aug/90 with mark planner

Nick Rundall - 2nd O/S - 1990

phil64 - Lead O/S - 1990

surfbish - Lead O/S - Apr/88

BRUCESTRAC - 1988 with Chris Cracknell,Various

Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - 16/May/87

Hidden - Lead - 10/May/87

steve taylor - Lead - 1987

Pete Pozman - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/86 with John Byrne

andy gittins - 1985

Tom V - 1984

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 29/May/83

Gezzer - 1983 with Andy Towne

TonyF - Lead O/S - 01/May/82 with George Fowler, Alistair Gordon, Tony Cox

Ian Jones - Lead - 1982 with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc

babymoac - Lead - 13/Jun/81 with MTW

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Apr/80

Hidden - Lead - 02/Mar/80

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/79

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 26/Jun/77

Mark Kemball - Lead - 27/Nov/76

Al Evans - 1976

Jonathan Lagoe - UKC - 1976

petemeads - Lead - 16/Mar/74

Hidden - 2nd - 1967

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
gavinpeach, Leo Choi, alexanderjwatts, SuperLee1985, kim.mulji, djdf

Voting
Total votes cast 108
hard E10 of 36
E10 of 36
easy E14 of 36
hard HVS25 of 36
HVS6 of 36
easy HVS1 of 36
hard VS0 of 36
VS0 of 36
easy VS0 of 36
hard 5c0 of 38
5c0 of 38
easy 5c0 of 38
hard 5b0 of 38
5b3 of 38
easy 5b26 of 38
hard 5a6 of 38
5a2 of 38
easy 5a1 of 38
3 Stars5 of 34
2 Stars9 of 34
1 Star19 of 34
0 Stars0 of 34
Bag of .....1 of 34
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