South Yorkshire > Millstone Edge >
 
Shaftesbury Avenue* HVS 5a

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[Getting my hand jam stuck!!, 3 kb]20m. The fist-and-a-bit-width crack at the right-hand side of the wall leads to a small overhang, big cams are an advantage. The wall above the overhang is much easier and the exit is loose. © ROCKFAX
FAA. Peter Biven, Trevor Peck 1956. FFA. Jim Campbell 1967

Ticklists: Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Millstone HVS's.

Photo: Getting my hand jam stuck!! © alexjz
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 152 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

Rest route, just fist jamming with my fat hands. Fell on crux coming out of the little roof
islandlynx - Lead dog - 02/Jul/14 with Dan simonis

jonleighton - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/14

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - 17/Jun/14

Harder than regent street? Classic grit sandbag HVS.
Brannock - Lead - 01/Jun/14

Hidden - 2nd dog - 01/Jun/14

I can't do fist jams very well. Nice route
alexjz - Lead RP - 22/Mar/14 with Murilo Lessa

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/14

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Mar/14

amccann - 2nd β - 06/Oct/13

classic grit hvs
tprebs - 2nd O/S - 05/Oct/13 with John O'Hara, Tim O Hanrahan

Awesome Route..
Lenny - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/13 with Kev

shouter - Lead - 24/Jul/13

Andy Fielding - Lead - 30/Jun/13 with Mike Walton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/May/13

Horrible, brutal
MikeLeeds - 2nd O/S - 19/May/13 with Kevin Bowser

henry peter jenkins - 2nd - 06/May/13 with jake mcmanus, robbie jenkins

will_benfold - Lead dnf - 04/May/13 with Chris Allan

Awesome Crack, got past the roof and fell too many times. Brutal
spacecadetjake - 2nd dnf - 01/May/13 with henry peter jenkins, Robbie jenkins

ejected - 2013

andybirtwistle - Lead - 21/Oct/12

Very good.
Kirill - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/12 with Charles Moreton

As unpleasant as ever
cem - 2nd rpt - 20/Oct/12 with Kirill Spiridonov

sopaz - 2nd - 29/Sep/12

danfitz - Lead dog - 10/Sep/12 with Georgie Smith

R0bbie - 2nd O/S - 11/Jul/12 with Taba, Leighn Chambers

Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 09/Jul/12

One of 'those' HVS'. Butch, Burly, Barbaric - but quite good.
Dave Foster - 2nd O/S - 18/Mar/12 with Robin

What a pig! Awkward.
robin_hackney - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/12 with Dave Foster

mike lawrence? - Lead - 01/Mar/12 with luca

Pete Graham - 2nd - 01/Mar/12 with Malcolm Scott

Dan Mckinlay - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

knicos - Lead - 02/Dec/11 with Paul Salmon

Tryed to lead thinking it looked easyer than it was. Seconded clean.
Paul1 - 2nd - 02/Dec/11 with Nick

Dirk Uhlig - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/11

lozowen - Lead - 01/Jul/11 with Chris Howard

slacky - 2nd rpt - 14/Jun/11 with Andes, Chris Saunders

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 01/May/11

PAJames - 2011

riddle - Lead dog - 09/Oct/10 with Mike Stephenson

a tough climb to crack, "bovine-jams" as the book describes is very accurate! dodgy onsight.
rustaldo - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/10 with Al

Hard
Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Jon Miles and Lawrence

r@bag - 2nd dog - 28/Aug/10 with Dom Sellars

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Aug/10

The Mountain Goat - 2nd dnf - 28/Aug/10

Tightsgirl - 2nd - 17/Aug/10 with German Mountain Joe, Emily Anniballi

Pown - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/10

harold walmsley - 2nd β - 15/Jun/10 with Colin Struthers

I'd give this E1 5c, an absolute pig.
Andrew Sloan - Lead dog - 11/Apr/10

simonp - Lead O/S - Apr/10 with Nate Mcmullen

gronbech - Lead dog - 28/Mar/10 with Tom

Seymore Butt - 2010

TonyF - Lead - 2010

Ewano - TR - 2010

melonmike - 2nd - 15/Oct/09 with Big Steve, Jack Metcalfe

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Oct/09

Pretty pumpy! Shame about the top-out.
PeteH - 2nd O/S - 05/Oct/09 with Brad Cain

jonka - Lead - Sep/09 with mark

mark sadler - 2nd - Sep/09 with john

jchenoweth - Lead dog - 15/Aug/09 with Tash

tigertim - 2nd - 13/Aug/09 with Tony Payne, Dave Reeve

Great jamming, but pretty tough for the grade I thought.
slacky - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Apr/09

metal arms - Lead dog - 11/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/09

summo - 2009

john lynch - Lead - 17/Oct/08 with Lewis Andrew

clive-greenwood - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/08

Rachael Barlow - 2nd - 29/Aug/08 with Phil Robins

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/08

Brian Rodgers - 2nd - 10/May/08 with Neil Hillis

why did I choose this as my first route of the year - horrible
Mick r - Lead dog - 10/Feb/08 with Cragdog al

lead on micks gear burly hvs
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 09/Feb/08 with mick radford

AndrewJenkins - 2008

kingholmesy - 2nd O/S - 2008 with SJD

Sean Kelly - 2008

roberto18 - 2008

marceli - Lead dog - 11/Nov/07 with majkel

Andrew Sloan - Lead dog - 29/Jul/07

timharrison - Lead dnf - 22/May/07 with Hedley Proctor

Whitt - TR RP - 10/Mar/07 with (Shunted)

Richard White - 2007

chrisbevins - Lead O/S - 2007

Big fists and forearms are definitely an advantage for the first crack. Top is very loose.
adam carless - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/06 with SecretSquirrel

SecretSquirrel - 2nd - 29/Oct/06 with adam carless

John Marsland - 2nd rpt - 16/Sep/06 with Goi

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/06 with John Marsland

ChrisJD - 2nd - 22/Jul/06 with rc

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Jul/06

Nicos - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/06 with rich howels

reg_measures - Lead rpt - 14/May/06 with Richard Sharpe

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/06 with helen gibson

Hidden - Lead - 14/Mar/06

ChrisJD - Lead - 11/Feb/06 with rc

Brown - 2nd - 20/Jan/06 with Henry

UndercoverElephant - Lead O/S - 2006

Bern - 2006

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Aug/05

Lead 1st half. 2nd the second half
Adam Potter - AltLd dog - 23/Apr/05

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/05

Hidden - Lead - 18/Sep/04

shark - Lead - 01/Sep/04 with Jon Winter

lukea - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/04 with shannon

Budge - Lead O/S - 13/May/04 with Carl Tiivas

nickdonohue - 2nd - May/04 with Jim Barradale

Rik Dawes - Lead O/S - 2004

Andy Chubb - Lead - 07/Aug/03 with Bill Wheeler

Leofallon - 2nd - 28/Jun/03

nbotting - 2003

one rest
reg_measures - Lead dog - 12/Oct/02 with hugh thomas

Hidden - 2002

martroberts - Lead O/S - Jul/01

cem - Lead dog - 29/Apr/01 with Miles Butteriss

this is a lovely fighting sort of route with new interest each move up.
howifeel - Lead O/S - 2001 with James

Roget - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/00

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2000

marcoleptic - Lead O/S - 2000 with Dave

ArnaudG - 1999

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1996

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/95

ChrisJD - Lead - 28/Apr/94 with AlB

IanD353 - Lead O/S - Jun/93

AB1965 - Lead - 21/Jul/92

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/91

lithos - 2nd - Aug/90 with mark planner

Nick Rundall - 2nd O/S - 1990

surfbish - Lead O/S - Apr/88

BRUCESTRAC - 1988 with Chris Cracknell,Various

Hidden - Lead - 10/May/87

steve taylor - Lead - 1987

Pete Pozman - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/86 with John Byrne

andy gittins - 1985

Tom V - 1984

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 29/May/83

Gezzer - 1983 with Andy Towne

Ian Jones - Lead - 1982 with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc

babymoac - Lead - 13/Jun/81 with MTW

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Apr/80

Hidden - Lead - 02/Mar/80

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/79

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 26/Jun/77

Mark Kemball - Lead - 27/Nov/76

Al Evans - 1976

Jonathan Lagoe - UKC - 1976

petemeads - Lead - 16/Mar/74

Hidden - 2nd - 1967

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
alexanderjwatts, Hidden, SuperLee1985, kim.mulji, Hidden, djdf, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 94
hard E10 of 31
E10 of 31
easy E13 of 31
hard HVS21 of 31
HVS6 of 31
easy HVS1 of 31
hard VS0 of 31
VS0 of 31
easy VS0 of 31
hard 5b0 of 33
5b1 of 33
easy 5b23 of 33
hard 5a6 of 33
5a2 of 33
easy 5a1 of 33
hard 4c0 of 33
4c0 of 33
easy 4c0 of 33
3 Stars5 of 30
2 Stars8 of 30
1 Star16 of 30
0 Stars0 of 30
Bag of .....1 of 30
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 152 (0.7%)
Lead81 of 152 (53.3%)
Followed43 of 152 (28.3%)
Toproped2 of 152 (1.3%)
Alt Leads3 of 152 (2.0%)
Unknown22 of 152 (14.5%)

'Climbed'72 of 152 (47.4%)
clean O/S52 of 152 (34.2%)
clean β2 of 152 (1.3%)
clean rpt4 of 152 (2.6%)
clean RP2 of 152 (1.3%)
dogged15 of 152 (9.9%)
dnf5 of 152 (3.3%)