South Yorkshire > Millstone Edge >
 
Gimcrack** VS 4c

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[Seconding at Millstone, 3 kb]22m. A good jamming crack leads up the wall left of the right-hand cave to enter a shallow right-facing groove. The exit from this requires care as a hugely unstable slope lurks above. © ROCKFAX
FA. Barry Ingle 1962

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Northern Grit 100 VD - VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+.

Photo: Seconding at Millstone © bendurance
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 342 logbooks, and on 9 wishlists.

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/May/13

MikeLeeds - Lead - 19/May/13 with Kevin Bowser

john_ni - Lead O/S - 07/May/13 with Peak CC

stevelismore - 2nd O/S - 06/May/13 with John PCC

chrisallan - Lead O/S - 04/May/13

will_benfold - 2nd O/S - 04/May/13 with Chris Allan

henry peter jenkins - 2nd - 22/Apr/13 with dale clover

good traditional fun. topout on decomposing rock was interesting - enough solid rock to place protection thankfully
nigel pearson - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/13 with Robin

Tim Rodgers - 2nd - 21/Oct/12 with Mark Anstiss

Kirill - Lead rpt - 20/Oct/12 with Charles Moreton

SPD224 - 2nd - 20/Oct/12 with Jim Hardwick, Martin Smith

cem - 2nd rpt - 20/Oct/12 with Kirill Spiridonov

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/12

Fell off the lower part of the crack.
khalidq - 2nd dog - 14/Oct/12 with Andy Irvine

Edward led. Terrible climb. Terrible topout.
stuaart - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/12 with Martina Savio, Edward Benison

papashango - Lead - 29/Sep/12 with Charlie

Charlie Zephyr Booth - AltLd - 29/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/12

Much harder than it looks, crux felt a good 5a to me - certainly significantly harder than the VSs we did today at Laurencefield (Excalibur and Limpopo Groove)
Toreador - 2nd O/S - 15/Sep/12 with Carmen

Hidden - Solo - 10/Sep/12

danfitz - Lead β - 10/Sep/12 with Georgie Smith

Gambit - 04/Sep/12 with Barney

Nigel Bond - Lead - 03/Aug/12 with Bern Hardman

The top section isnt great.
Scotsken - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/12

DanOsb - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/12 with ben silvestre

One of the few routes that would get more stars if it were shorter!. Good fun lower half and increasingly dirty and loose top half. Still worthwhile though. Nui seconded clean no trouble
martroberts - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/12

Absolutely awful. full of dirt and cobwebs followed by climbing ten metres of what appeared to be rubble and beach.
JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/12 with David Kirsfelds

David Kay - 2nd - 22/Jul/12 with Jamie Sparks

Morwood - 2nd - 17/Jul/12 with gillywillyhoo

gillywillyhoo - Lead - 17/Jul/12 with James Morwood

Nice first half, shame about the second.
treg - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/12 with Lynsey

Nice hand-jamming low down, but second half of the route blocky and filthy.
clipskipper - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Sonia Robins

simeclimb68 - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/12 with Tom Jewel

Blind cam placement to the side, turned out to be bomber
alexjz - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/12 with Matt Hilton-Webb

Hidden - 2nd - 16/May/12

RichyBOYY - Lead - 16/May/12 with Rob Caesar

First half is good clean well protected fun. Second half is mountaineering territory.
djones66 - Lead - 13/May/12 with Steve Bennet

phardman - Lead rpt - 07/May/12 with Mark Incles

Jim Slater - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/12 with Graeme Hammond

Graeme Hammond - 2nd rpt - 26/Mar/12 with Jim

hippymagic - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/12 with Jessica

max_chan - 2nd O/S - 25/Mar/12 with Steve PCC

disturbed_one51 - Lead - 24/Mar/12 with Juliet Bate

JJB - 2nd - 24/Mar/12 with Mark Williams

rich_hw - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/12 with Graeme Hammond

Graeme Hammond - 2nd rpt - 20/Mar/12 with Richard

Hidden - Lead - 11/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/12

David Qualtrough - 2012

ash longreach - 2nd - 2012 with John

Dan Mckinlay - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

LJKing - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/11 with Piers Harley

Pilch - Lead rpt - 15/Oct/11 with Jo, Graham

Ground up (again) after a silly fall on a nut at the first 2 moves off the ground, first time jamming.
Vertigo1 - Lead β - 15/Oct/11 with Oliver Beesley

Paul D Jones - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/11

JYates - Lead - 24/Sep/11 with Lawrence Ramsey

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 02/Sep/11

cragtyke - 2nd - 28/Aug/11 with gareth, john g

If VS is your limit the top isnt for you!
ojp - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/11 with Si

Hidden - Lead rpt - 23/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/11

gregoritos - Solo O/S - 24/Jul/11

Hidden - Solo O/S - 23/Jul/11

Jamming practice for Berry.
Kafoozalem - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/11 with Berry

berry - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/11 with Kafoozalem

Still sandy
Cake - 2nd rpt - 05/Jul/11 with John Cooper

lozowen - Lead - 01/Jul/11 with Chris Howard

bpempire - Lead β - 01/Jul/11

simon1965 - 2nd - 24/Jun/11 with Tim L

loundsy - Lead rpt - 24/Jun/11 with Simon shaw

busdriver - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/11 with Kim

Boran - TR rpt - 14/Jun/11

Hidden - TR - 04/Jun/11

mark20 - Lead O/S - 20/May/11

SteveJCox - 2nd - May/11

shouter - 2nd - 18/Apr/11

Tom Cox - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/11

sambosanquet101 - Lead - 14/Apr/11 with Martin Jones

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Apr/11

bigdan050 - 2nd - 12/Apr/11 with Tosh

brilliant line. good jamming. stinking loose finish.
wishicud climbHVS - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/11 with Big Fat Dan

Roped solo
timofy - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/11

gingerwolf - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/11

pete1993 - Lead - 20/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/11

johniebriggs - Lead O/S - Feb/11

Colin Scotchford - 2nd - 2011

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2nd dog - 20/Nov/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Nov/10

Hidden - Lead rpt - 10/Oct/10

BennoC - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/10 with Barry D

Roger Cruse - 2nd O/S - 02/Oct/10 with Kris & Trevor

really enjoyed this today, more of a top rope than a 2nd though as Phil removed all the gear.
Graeme Hammond - 2nd rpt - 26/Sep/10 with Rosa, Phil Lee

derekb - 2nd - 26/Sep/10 with Kevin

Jamesb55 - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/10

Hidden - AltLd dog - 30/Aug/10

r@bag - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Jon Miles

The Mountain Goat - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/10

great climb until crack ends, then becomes a loose muddy slog.some good technical moves, quite pumpy with good gear .earlier shower made things little trickier. 2* for first half of route
glennofsheff - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/10

mud & sand made it a bit of a chore
josephW - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/10 with Fresher

climbing_rocks1983 - 2nd O/S - 10/Jul/10 with Kieran, Petey

A very dusty route - a shame because it could be very good. A real struggle to get Dave's gear out. The loose rock at the top was unnerving even on second. Got hit in the shin by falling rock whilst belaying.
Emma-Louise Anderson - 2nd O/S - 08/Jul/10 with Dave

John Bagshaw - Lead - 05/Jul/10 with Nigel Boothroyd

Stuart Wildman - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/10 with Dave Shep

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo rpt - 29/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/10

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Jun/10

Polished start, but leads on to a nice route. A very loose run off at the top, and achors consist of a concrete fence post.
Kirsty18 - TR O/S - 22/May/10

Shauna - 2nd rpt - 18/May/10 with Steve

barni - 2nd O/S - 14/May/10 with Paul James

Dizz - Lead O/S - 09/May/10 with paolo

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/May/10

iceaxejuggler - Lead O/S - 09/May/10 with Simon P

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Apr/10

philboy - 2nd - 24/Apr/10 with paul h

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10

Sari Nevala - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/10 with Lucy

Hidden - Lead rpt - 12/Apr/10

Excellent first half, but the last section was VERY unstable.
embob - 2nd - 11/Apr/10 with Alex

Hidden - Lead - 11/Apr/10

hard work
Pilch - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/10 with Graham and Ed

r fizzle - 2nd O/S - 14/Mar/10 with James Moneypenny

Seymore Butt - 2010

TonyF - Lead - 2010

katyvose1 - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2010

Ewano - 2010

Ian Hamer - Lead O/S - 2010 with Steve

buxtoncoffeelover - 2nd - 2010

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Oct/09

melonmike - 2nd - 15/Oct/09 with Big Steve, Jack Metcalfe

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/09

Good climbing, but absolutely filthy. Strangely enjoyable but won't be repreating it ...
bullwinkle - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/09 with Duck Egg

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Oct/09

Craig Howes - TR O/S - 04/Oct/09 with Tim

thrutch - Lead - 03/Oct/09

loundsy - 2nd β - 23/Sep/09

belay bunny turned bad - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/09 with Debbie, loundsy

Hidden - Lead - 12/Sep/09

Pity about the second half
The_Boy_ODwyer - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/09 with Ben

So Sandy!
thecurlyone - 2nd O/S - 31/Aug/09 with James

Fell from 20' like some kind of total idiot. One piece of gear ripped and hit the deck. Cracked my arm. What a cred dive!
johnkevan - Lead dnf - 31/Aug/09 with Matt Johnson

slacky - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/09 with Ben & Dan

Dave89 - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/09 with Laura

Nice, shame about the shitty top out
slacky - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/09 with Tim

Graeme Hammond - Lead rpt - 08/Jul/09 with Patrick Daniel

Jonathan Hall - Lead - 01/Jul/09 with Sam Stringer

tatz45 - Lead O/S - Jul/09 with Katy Vose

DaNo123 - 2nd - 28/Jun/09 with cat

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/09

Cake - 2nd O/S - 27/Jun/09 with Matt

About 1/3 nice chunky jamming crack, 1/3 increasingly sandy ledges, and 1/3 vertical beach. Exciting.
Quiddity - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/09 with Hazel

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/09

tomthecoolperson - 2nd O/S - 04/Jun/09 with Andrew

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/May/09

Andrew Sloan - Lead rpt - 23/May/09 with Tim

Hidden - 2nd rpt - May/09

Graeme Hammond - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/09 with anthony

Hannah Moulton - 2nd - 21/Apr/09 with Gav

Fat Tim - Lead - 05/Apr/09 with Sarah Baker

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/09

Hidden - Lead - 22/Mar/09

Chris Sansum - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/09 with Gary Lewin

summo - 2009

Awkward stuggle low down, and a very chossy top-out, not deserving of its stars!
Sankey - 2nd O/S - 16/Nov/08 with andyebbens

andyebbens - Lead - 16/Nov/08 with Steve E

Sgt. Vest - Solo O/S - 24/Oct/08

john lynch - Lead - 17/Oct/08 with Lewis Andrew

Hard!
JohnHutch - 2nd - 16/Oct/08 with L

The start is great, but the top half is muddy, chossy and generally grim.
Shauna - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/08 with Steve

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/08 with Claire Duffield

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/08

Lewis Andrew - 2nd - Oct/08 with John Lynch

Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/08 with Emma (Rock On)

petellis - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/08 with Jim in Seconding Mode

Quite a technical start - fell off 4 times!! Eventually finished with a hell of a lot of encouragement...
wildeybeast - 2nd - 26/Jul/08

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Jun/08

darren1 - 07/Jun/08

jonka - Lead - Jun/08 with james

atom - 2nd - 11/May/08 with Lee Parker

Jethro - Lead dog - May/08 with Adam Lindley

Martin Haworth - Lead rpt - 13/Apr/08 with Marek

Nicos - Solo O/S - 04/Apr/08 with ryan

Dan 85 - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/08 with Nicos

AndrewJenkins - 2008

Sean Kelly - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/07 with Mike Todd

Frustrating - got my hands wrong & ended up semi-sitting on the rope while I swapped. Bah.
KeithW - 2nd dog - 06/Oct/07 with Bruce

mattpw - Lead O/S - Oct/07

Hidden - Lead - 23/Sep/07

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Sep/07

Dave Foster - 2nd - Sep/07 with Bryn

Kirill - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/07 with Charles Moreton

cem - 2nd rpt - 30/Aug/07 with Kirill Spiridonov

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/07

Paul Tomo - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/07 with Paul Tomlinson

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - Jul/07 with Cat Higgs

Lev - 2nd O/S - 06/May/07 with Emma Ross

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/May/07

Hidden - Lead - May/07

Hidden - May/07

Andrew Sloan - 2nd rpt - 09/Apr/07 with Richard

peter myers - Lead - Apr/07 with Alex May

davidgent - Lead O/S - Mar/07 with Luke

Lukey B - TR O/S - Mar/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

Richard White - 2007

My first outdoor climb
Creep_pea - TR O/S - 2007 with Rob, Alex & Tim

Rampikino - Lead - 29/Oct/06 with Ian Indans

cem - 2nd O/S - 15/Oct/06 with Graham Dolman, Miles Butteriss

Si dH - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/06 with Tom Lambert

pelvoux - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/06 with Mario

Stig - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/06 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

ChrisJD - 2nd - 22/Jul/06 with rc

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Jul/06

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo O/S - 12/Jul/06

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Jul/06

victim of mathematics - 2nd O/S - 29/Jun/06 with crossdressingrodney

crossdressingrodney - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/06 with Jaime, victim of mathematics

Rebecca Buckenham - 2nd O/S - 24/Jun/06 with Andre

simonw1 - 2nd O/S - 17/Jun/06 with Allan Watson

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Jun/06

reg_measures - 2nd rpt - 14/May/06 with Richard Sharpe

rilem - 2nd - May/06 with Ian W

Hidden - Lead - May/06

adam carless - 2nd rpt - 22/Apr/06 with James Rowe

ChrisJD - 2nd - 11/Feb/06 with rc

Jon Greengrass - Lead O/S - 2006

Hidden - Lead - 2006

jake-jones - Lead O/S - 2006

looter - 2006 with lead/second

sdht - 2006

zcapxa5 - Lead O/S - 30/Oct/05 with Dave Ross

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Oct/05

Oddjob - 2nd O/S - Oct/05 with Jez

Hidden - Lead - 16/Aug/05

Adam Potter - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/05

LoopyLou - Lead O/S - Jun/05 with Helen Lear

Hidden - Lead dog - 29/May/05

PenJD - Lead O/S - 2005 with John Helme

Hidden - 2005

Marq - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/04 with Daniel Dennehy

shark - Lead - 01/Sep/04 with Jon Winter

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/04

chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/04 with Chris Bigger

clive-greenwood - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/04 with Ray

Hidden - Lead RP - 12/Jun/04

Stefan - Lead O/S - 22/May/04 with Erik Rask

lukea - 2nd O/S - 07/May/04 with shannon

malc - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/04 with Paul S

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Sep/03

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/Sep/03

Andy Chubb - Lead - 07/Aug/03 with Bill Wheeler

loose85 - 2nd - 11/Jul/03

Brown - Lead O/S - Jul/03

Hidden - 2nd - Jul/03

Laramadness - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/03 with ST

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Nov/02

reg_measures - 2nd O/S - 04/Oct/02 with pete kenyon

Hidden - Lead - 27/Aug/02

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/02

leon - Lead O/S - Jun/02 with Andy Wright

Hidden - 2nd O/S - May/02

chris warner - Lead - May/02 with ben edwards

Hidden - Lead - 31/Mar/02

Hidden - 2002

rlrs - Lead - 2002

Hidden - Lead rpt - 20/May/01

Heisenberg - Lead O/S - 07/May/01 with andy hartley

Different Steve - Lead O/S - May/01 with Rupert Holbrook

Hidden - 16/Apr/01

Hidden - Lead - 11/Apr/01

John Kettle - Lead - 2001

Carl Smethurst - Lead rpt - 22/Oct/00 with Ian Pickles

Howard J - 2nd - 27/Jun/00 with Rob Dixon

Andy S - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/00

JohnHutch - 29/May/00

wadey1973 - Lead - 11/Mar/00 with Jim Colchester

Hidden - Lead - 2000

tlr - 2nd - 2000

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2000

marcoleptic - Lead O/S - 2000

really good route
ellie macpherson - Lead - Sep/99 with Ian Holmes

Nick Smith - UKC - 2nd - Aug/99

ajc - 2nd O/S - 05/Jun/99

Adrian Daniels - Lead - 28/Mar/99 with John Parrott

wadey1973 - Lead - 11/Mar/98 with Jim Colchester

cragspud - Lead O/S - 1998

Iain Thow - TR - 27/May/97 with Alex Doherty

Scott McRae - 2nd O/S - 18/May/97 with Steve Lucas

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1996

BruceW - Lead O/S - 1996

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1996

Hammy - Lead - 02/Jun/95 with Colin Struthers

andybrown114 - 2nd - Jun/95 with Stewart Leitch

ChrisJD - Lead - 1995 with Alex

Phil West - 2nd O/S - 1994 with Steve Wild

nai - Lead - 1994

Rog Wilko - Lead - May/93 with Debbie Wilkinson

adam carless - Lead O/S - 1993 with Someone from YUMC

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/92

Roget - Solo O/S - 25/Apr/92

craig d - 1992

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/91

Chris Ellis - Lead O/S - 26/May/91 with Dave Turner

Hidden - Lead - 05/May/91

whispering nic - Lead - 16/Feb/91

kato'sdad - Lead - 26/Jan/91 with Jerry Mattinson

Andy Say - Solo - 07/Aug/90

lithos - Lead O/S - Aug/90

Richard Weller - Lead - 28/Jul/90 with Richard White

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/90

beaumap - Lead - Oct/89 with Bernie Green

BigHairyIan - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/88 with Tufty (Stewart Moffat)

Hidden - 1987

John Marsland - 2nd - 20/Sep/86 with Dave Cousins

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Jun/85

andy gittins - 1985

GuyM - 1985

Tom V - 1984

Wet rock - Decked out !
shark - Lead dnf - 27/Nov/83 with Paul Hempstock

John Marsland - Lead - 05/Nov/83 with Tony Rex

Ian Jones - Lead - 1982 with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc

mark-abz - Lead - 07/Sep/81 with Andy W

babymoac - 2nd - 13/Jun/81 with MTW

Hidden - Solo - 20/Apr/80

Hidden - Solo O/S - Apr/80

Ghastly Rubberfeet - Lead - 1980

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

Andy Fielding - Lead - 1979

Nigel Bond - Lead - 29/Jun/77 with Tony Cuddy

Mark Kemball - Solo - 24/Apr/77

Hidden - Lead - 22/May/76

Al Evans - 1976

Jonathan Lagoe - UKC - Lead - Mar/74 with Phil Smith

rogerskews - 1972 with Dane Atkins

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 05/Sep/71 with Charlie Vigano, Jim Worthington

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Mountain Spirit, kim.mulji, Hidden, Hidden, Sam Marks, pc1983, Ander, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 168
hard HVS0 of 56
HVS0 of 56
easy HVS2 of 56
hard VS9 of 56
VS41 of 56
easy VS3 of 56
hard HS1 of 56
HS0 of 56
easy HS0 of 56
hard 5a0 of 56
5a0 of 56
easy 5a2 of 56
hard 4c11 of 56
4c39 of 56
easy 4c2 of 56
hard 4b2 of 56
4b0 of 56
easy 4b0 of 56
3 Stars1 of 56
2 Stars15 of 56
1 Star28 of 56
0 Stars9 of 56
Bag of .....3 of 56
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed12 of 342 (3.5%)
Lead194 of 342 (56.7%)
Followed96 of 342 (28.1%)
Toproped7 of 342 (2.0%)
Alt Leads4 of 342 (1.2%)
Unknown29 of 342 (8.5%)

'Climbed'144 of 342 (42.1%)
clean O/S159 of 342 (46.5%)
clean β4 of 342 (1.2%)
clean rpt26 of 342 (7.6%)
clean RP1 of 342 (0.3%)
dogged6 of 342 (1.8%)
dnf2 of 342 (0.6%)