Rockfax Description
Mild but scary! Climb the slabby wall rightwards to an indifferent set of small runners on the arete, then teeter left away from these along the shelf to join and finish up Pulpit Groove. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List.

pete1993 27/Sep 2nd O/S
with Micki, Tom
Teappleby 27/Sep Lead rpt
MSchobitz 27/Sep Lead β

on toms gear

MysteriousCeorl 29/May 2nd

Low (quite difficult) hand traverse across the ledge with 1 fall, would have been much easier to walk across the top!

Graeme Hammond 29/May Lead O/S

Low traverse method, will be back to do the scarier but easier walk method with a couple of small cams

with Nick Higson, Ben
benkelsey 25/May 2nd O/S

Walking yet precarious

Brown 05/Oct/14 Lead
with John
mike bridges 30/Aug/14 2nd β

Felt good to 2nd clean, very sandy at the end of the traverse. Rob led with a cool head.

dannyboy83 12/Jun/14 Solo O/S
Andy Peak 1 23/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Nice and balincy all over to soon:-)

WillDoyle 14/Mar/14 Lead O/S
ChrisBrooke 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Scary traverse. Enjoyed the focus required. Take small cams.

with John Inkpen
Matthew Ferrier 16/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Pretty cool, crux is pulling onto the ledge then it eases. Plenty of holds when you need them after that, just not necessarily at the right level.

with Will
amccann 16/Nov/13 Lead O/S
willsm11 16/Nov/13 2nd β
with matt
Teappleby 16/Nov/13 2nd

In the dark without a headtorch on, made the traverse abit sketchy

Andy Peak 1 28/Sep/13 Lead O/S

So i thorte this wuld be a nice worm up for better things! It wasent!! Spent the rest of the day pumped! I may of climbed a difrent route to scoop conection by staying low and climbing out to the flakes on the left and then mantaling up on the left most part of the ledge!

with Dan bates
Wayne S 06/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Deacon
deacondeacon 06/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Daniel Heath 11/Jul/13 Solo O/S

Scary, nearly barndoored off trying to chalk-up mid move. Insecure.

Si dH 28/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Neil Furniss
Hidden 17/Apr/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 13/Apr/13 Lead β
James Oakes 13/Apr/13 Lead O/S

A small cam in the slot is useful.

with Liam Brown, Gareth Hooson
bclifton ??/2013 Lead O/S
Dr Toph 01/Sep/12 Solo O/S

Not E3, but nicely delicate and balancy!

Hidden 20/Jun/12 Lead O/S
PAJames ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Nick Sillem ??/2012 Lead O/S
nickmattia 23/Aug/11 Lead O/S
stephenhartley 23/Aug/11 2nd
Dave Foster 14/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Si 2
Hidden 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
crimpy69 02/Jul/11 TR
Brian Rodgers 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S

The lower wall was harder than the traverse. Overgraded.

Hidden 11/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Tamati ?/May/11 2nd
Jonathan Hall 30/Apr/11 Lead

Definitely a thought provoking traverse! Not so bad I couldn't enjoy it though.

with Will Ward
Rachel Slater 18/Mar/11 Lead O/S

too easy for E3 and a little sandy, not particularly nice

Chi Cheng 18/Mar/11 2nd O/S

the traverse is awful on the second, was going to swing into Great Harry if i came off.

joe.91 01/Mar/11 Lead O/S

First E3! It was E2 in my guide and looked easier then Suspense hence this instead of Suspense. A little scared getting on the ledge and then traversing but apart from that fine. Bomber micro-cams on the arete, had to abb for gear

Coel Hellier 17/Sep/10 Lead
robin heath 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Good route, fear wise E3 is the right grade. quite an easy 5b move though. Would be nasty if you fell from the left of the ledge.

Hidden 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
dan gibson 12/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with michael porter
thomasadixon 23/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Never E3 just too easy, especially since the hard moves are near the start of the traverse. V Good though.

with Becca
BeccaSnowden 23/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Tom
AJ007 14/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Dan
dan gibson 14/Mar/09 2nd O/S
with AJ
Nicos 22/Feb/09 Lead O/S
smudge 25/Oct/08 Lead rpt
djp1 25/Oct/08 2nd
with Dan Smith
smudge 24/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Jude and Rob
Somerset swede basher 29/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Thought the runners on the arete were pretty good to be honest. I think you would deck from the far left of the ledge but the moves there arn't hard.

with Laurence Davis
r@bag 29/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jul/08 Lead rpt
joe larner 25/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Similar to 'thank god ledge' on halfdome - Looks like you can walk along the ledge on first appearance but a shuffling crawl seemed more appropriate when up there. Grade depends on what gear youve got. i would imagine a micro-cam in the last slot would make it feel much less bold. The cams in the flared incut on the arete didn't seem solid enough to hold the directional wires in place - in the event of a fall. If these fail the resultant fall ont to the good wires in the dubious block would be very big and scary. Soft E3 without the right micor-cams?

Hidden 25/Jun/08 2nd O/S
roberto18 04/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with Matt Burdekin
Sean Kelly ??/2008 -
Hidden 20/Sep/07 Lead O/S
BenJacobs 20/Sep/07 2nd O/S
with PeakDJ
climbingpixie 13/Sep/07 Lead O/S

Bloody hell, it didn't look that scary from the ground! One good nut, a motley collection of micro-cams borrowed off some randoms and pretending the sloping ledge was 2ft from floor level helped enormously.

with Dan
Hidden 12/Sep/07 2nd RP
Hidden ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Jus 17/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/04 2nd O/S
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Jul/02 Lead O/S
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
nickcanute ??/2000 -
with led or solo -various dates
Hidden 05/Aug/97 Lead
Hidden 31/Aug/92 Lead
Roget 23/Feb/92 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jan/92 TR
Hidden 07/Apr/91 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1990 -
Hidden 24/Jun/86 Lead
Dave Musgrove 26/Jun/85 AltLd
with Kim Greenald
GordonHart ??/1985 TR β
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1985 2nd
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Mark Kemball 22/Oct/83 TR
mark-abz 14/Apr/83 TR
with Andy W
ewar woowar ??/1982 -
Hidden ?/Oct/79 Lead O/S
mike bridges 10/Jun/79 Lead O/S

was HVS 5a in Nunns guide so since Kev had done it in walking boots 2 years before,thought i`d have a go! Nervy but made it ok,

KRB 09/Jun/77 Lead O/S

I think this has turned out to be my first ever extreme though it was graded HVS 5a in the Paul Nunn guide at the time. Did it in my old walking boots protected by one small chock threaded with string.

with Tank
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
aretherenoneleft, Hidden, alexanderjwatts, rocktigger
High E4
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High E3
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High E2
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High 5c
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High 5b
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High 5a
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Votes cast 28
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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