Scarper's Triangle* E2 5b

Rockfax Description
Climb left out of the capped corner and pull back onto the slab. Balance up this to a blind harrowing finishing crack. Originally and still often finished leftwards to English Overhang at HVS 5a. © ROCKFAX

FA. John Fearon 1957

Ticklists: Pete's 150 Peak Extremes.

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This climb is in 75 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/15

spragglerocks - 2nd O/S - 19/Mar/15 with Mike Grant

Got on this thinking it was E2 5b, as in Rockfax. Climbed from under the roof onto the arete which has good gear, then moved up the slab using the arete. Didnt commit to the direct finish and bailed left about half a meter below the top out. Definitely decking out height for the top moves and still pretty hard. Hard E2 5c at least!
MSchobitz - Lead dnf - 25/Oct/14 with Fran Hammond

B-bop - TR O/S - 18/Aug/14 with Matt Grange

Started raining! A very nervy lead if done properly, i.e.not using the left arete. Used left hand start up the arete, some good moves.
mattgrange - TR dnf - 17/Aug/14 with Ben Levey

Ha, E2 5b my arse.
Tommy Moore - TR dog - 06/Oct/13 with Will Whalley, Sally Roberts

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - 06/Oct/13

Stroppy - 2nd dog - 06/Oct/13 with Roger Kirke

Escaped left.
WillDoyle - Lead - 03/Apr/13

really not sure if done correctly, blind crack very hard.
gordonday - TR O/S - 12/Jul/12 with clive

Used the left aret, not sure if that allowed. Desperate otherwise.
jwpil - 2nd O/S - 18/May/12 with Deacon

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/May/12

HVS finish
Stone Muppet - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with sd-l, md

Nicely contrasting sections. E2 5b in Rockfax, which I think is probably fair, if you use the LH arete plus crack. Burly start, then bold and pretty tenuous above, with the only meaningful gear at half-height.
Andy Clarke - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/12 with Ralph

Climbed this thinking it was a VS 5a (Back in the day before I'd reached E grades). Got half way up the top crack and fell/slipped down the slab until toes luckily caught on a horizontal lip. Had a wobbly and got a mate to run up to the top to lower a rope down to me. Guess I'll have to try it again some day but am in no hurry.
Adam Potter - Lead dnf - 2012

disturbed_one51 - 2nd - 02/Dec/11 with Rob Middleton

tonanf - AltLd - Nov/11

couldn't do the upper slab
Kirill - 2nd dnf - 30/Oct/11 with Charles Moreton

But with HVS finish as I didn't fancy the upper crackline without gear
cem - Lead O/S - 30/Oct/11 with Kirill Spiridonov

Ed morris - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/11 with ewan

ewanthomson - 2nd O/S - 16/Oct/11 with Ed morris

Hidden - TR O/S - 30/Jul/11

Can you get a nut or microcam in at 2/3rds?
Robin S - TR O/S - 17/Apr/11

steve_yo - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/11

Brown - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/11 with Lily

harder than i was expecting!
highlux - Solo O/S - 2011

Hidden - Lead RP - 2011

PeteH - Lead O/S - 13/Dec/10 with Mark Watson

highlux - Solo O/S - 26/Nov/10

stephenhartley - 2nd - 25/Sep/10 with nickmattia

Tez29 - 2nd O/S - 15/May/10 with Mousey

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/May/10

mark20 - 2nd O/S - 13/Mar/10

J.Wells - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/10 with Mark Rankine

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 13/Aug/09

markhilton - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/09

not vs5a as book says
Joe Dove - Lead - 24/Jun/08 with paul

Hidden - Lead dnf - 07/Jun/08

Hidden - Solo - 24/May/08

Quite easy but would make a scary unprotected lead.
Nom - TR O/S - 16/Apr/08 with Joe Bream

Hidden - TR O/S - 16/Apr/08

tontopink - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/08

jamesturnbull - Lead - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Used blind crack and left-hand arete at top of slab, thinking it was VS 5a.
JonBray - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/07

Hidden - Solo - May/07

Say's VS in the guide book! Well thin at the top, good start though.
mikehenesy - 2nd O/S - May/07 with fudge

craig matheson - Solo O/S - Apr/07

Hidden - Lead dnf - 26/Mar/07

Hidden - 2007

Nicos - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/06 with rich howels

fizzy_elephant - 2nd O/S - 08/Oct/06 with stu

viking - 2nd O/S - Jul/06 with morgan

reg_measures - Lead rpt - 29/May/05 with allison, angela

SteveM - 2nd - 07/May/05 with Tobs

Pythonist - 2nd O/S - 2005 with Chris Jennions

Decked from the upper slab, got ribs broken, rescued, and hospitalised for 10 days (Thank you for the mountain rescue team!!). My helmet was also significantly damaged, but it must have saved my life. It was graded as VS 5a in the definitive guidebook. So, after the initial hard section, I believed the hard section was over, whereas in reality the upper slab is harder and underprotected. Also, as a VS climber, I didn't have micros, which are supposed to be crucial according to the newer guidebooks (but no mention in the definitive guide). Both the two pieces of gear after the overhang, which I knew were poor, popped out in the fall. Lesson: The given grade in a guidebook can be wrong, maybe to a criminal extentů
masa-alpin - Lead dnf - 29/May/04 with Claudia

Hidden - 2nd - May/03

Hidden - Lead - 09/Mar/03

Rock Fairy - 2nd - May/01 with Carl

tlr - Solo - 2000

Climbed thinking it was VS5a, no chance!
DuckingFesperate - Lead O/S - Apr/99 with Rich Ray

We both failed to lead it - was given VS 5a
Chris the Tall - TR - Jul/98 with Bill G

Hidden - Solo - 24/Jun/97

Hidden - 17/Apr/94

goi.ashmore - Solo O/S - 31/Oct/87

Chris Wright - Solo O/S - 14/Apr/87

Hammy - Solo - 28/Mar/81 with Simon Cardy

Hammy - Solo - 22/Nov/80 with Rob Lawson

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/May/78

Mark Kemball - Lead - 08/Feb/75

Andy Say - Lead - 1974

mikej - Solo - 02/May/70 with E

mikej - TR - 15/Jun/69 with Mike Browne

mikej - Solo dnf - 21/Sep/67 with John Lee

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:

Total votes cast 74
hard E30 of 18
E30 of 18
easy E30 of 18
hard E21 of 18
E22 of 18
easy E27 of 18
hard E18 of 18
E10 of 18
easy E10 of 18
hard 5c0 of 17
5c2 of 17
easy 5c2 of 17
hard 5b10 of 17
5b3 of 17
easy 5b0 of 17
hard 5a0 of 17
5a0 of 17
easy 5a0 of 17
3 Stars0 of 39
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1 Star23 of 39
0 Stars13 of 39
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