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Yukon Jack IV 5

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[Yukon Jack Pitch 1 in icy condition, 2 kb]90m. Named after the Canadian Whisky....Three pitches. Climb rightwards from the foot of the buttress to reach a corner. Climb this, hard in thin conditions, up and over small bulge to a stance. Continue up the chimney above to the top of the crag.
M.Sinclair & C Schiller 1993

Photo: Yukon Jack Pitch 1 in icy condition © Jonny Tee 69
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 58 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Jan/14

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Jan/14

Brucemacrosson - AltLd - 16/Jan/14 with David Small

kelliroberts3 - AltLd - 14/Jan/14 with Peter Rigby

Pete Rigby - AltLd O/S - 14/Jan/14 with Kelli Roberts

Lots of snow well banked out. Ewan lead second picth
mzchambers - AltLd O/S - 14/Jan/14 with Ewan

Led pitch 1, route in great condition.
Mike_Watson_99 - AltLd O/S - 12/Jan/14 with Fiona

Led pitch 2. Great conditions. Walk in was brutal but sheltered on the climb.
Fiona Reid - AltLd O/S - 12/Jan/14 with Mike

First pitch then into The Messenger
Tim Rodgers - AltLd - 11/Jan/14 with Chris Down

Adam led P1, Jim led P2. P1 seemed easy in the conditions (although gear consequently buried!)
adam clarke - AltLd O/S - 11/Jan/14 with James Hulme

edmitchell - AltLd O/S - 05/Jan/14 with Phil Wake

Lead 2nd pitch up the chimney.
Elsier - AltLd O/S - 04/Jan/14 with Adrian

olekemi - Lead O/S - 04/Jan/14 with James C

Alastair MacSween - AltLd rpt - 04/Jan/14 with Graham Drinkwater, Phil Warriner

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jan/14

Led P2
bullwinkle - AltLd O/S - 29/Dec/13 with Tom Lambert

Drew M - AltLd - 28/Dec/13 with Fred Lyon

Hidden - Lead - Dec/13

I lead P1 (merging to The Haston Line), Kyle did P2 (to the ledges) and P3. In today's condition, where rocks were very well rimed but ice on rock was not thick enough, P1 was both bold and hard - practically 15 metres run out from the deck up to tech 5, then the crux of tech 5/6 with OK-ish protection higher - solid grade VI. P3 was solid grade IV.
masa-alpin - AltLd O/S - 24/Nov/13 with Kyle

Masa lead pitch one, felt something like VI, 6! Very tenuous hooks and poor gear. I lead pitch two and three, some nice Tech 4/5 bits around the start of pitch three.
Mr. K - AltLd O/S - 23/Nov/13 with Masa Sakano

deep fresh snow and poor bubbled-ice under.seemed harder then Honeypot but great day it was
Wojttek - Lead O/S - 17/Mar/13 with Danii

to finish up hidden chimney via a traverse left.
benkelsey - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/13 with HPC

Storm force winds. Had to belay top pitch with eyes closed! Reasonable ice and good never on middle section. A little thin lower down but great fun.
andybrown114 - Lead - 30/Dec/12 with Jim Watchorn

A bit thin making it a hard Grade IV.
gripped01 - Lead - 30/Dec/12 with Liz Robinson

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/Dec/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Dec/12

Harry did most of the work (clearing) and the lack of ice made this super-duper hard. Nice line though. Finished up the Slant as tine was getting on.
Steven Andrews - AltLd O/S - 04/Dec/12 with Harry

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Dec/12

Fuck. Me. No ice, Tricky going to gain the corner with pish gear. Then harder continuing up the corner, A good nut on left wall in crack system. Got to the corner a few metres away from the easy ground and couldnt top it due to lack of anything for placements. Then struggled to gain the left wall via the crack system on top of the ledge, Definately tech 6 alone for that as it involved a horrid scary mantle, Got a nice chockstone thread with some insitu and just bailed off leaving a biner. If anyone can get to it, you're free to it as im impressed you chose to continue. If however its icy good conditions, I want it back! hah.
sneaks - Lead dnf - 05/Feb/12 with janey

top pitch only (after finishing "Haston Line"
Piers Harley - AltLd - 17/Jan/12 with Jeremy Windsor, Paul Winder

If you want a spicy and enjoyable extra, go left from belay at the top of the corner, then up and right. Enjoy!
Tom Livingstone - AltLd O/S - 04/Jan/12 with Tom Ripley

Top chimney pitch only after coming up Hidden Chimney Direct and linking via the slant. Big hard footless pull on bomber hooks round the back of the (not so?) bomber hollow flake straight off the belay to get established but eased considerably after the first few metres with good gear too.
freudy_love - Lead O/S - 30/Dec/11 with Stewart Munro

telemarker - 2nd O/S - 30/Dec/11 with Paul Freudenthal

Attempted in very thin conditions. Felt very hard and subsequently took a fall and left a nut and quickdraw in place. Not recommended if there's no ice!
willhawkins - Lead dnf - 05/Feb/11

Horrible conditions overhead and underfoot - no ice and lots of powder. Lowered off after 10 metres. Left behind yellow hex and quickdraw (if anyone's feeling kind, i'd like it back....If not, lucky you)
frecro - Lead dnf - 30/Jan/11 with steve

Griff87 - AltLd O/S - 26/Jan/11 with Tom Anderson, Jamie Hawton

Climbed the top two pitches after completing the Haston line.
jhawton - AltLd O/S - 26/Jan/11 with Tom Anderson, Griff

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Jan/11

thin 1st pitch - almost no ice
simondunf - AltLd - 23/Jan/11

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Jan/11

stuart34 - 2nd - 03/Jan/11 with Nic, Stuart Buchan

Hidden - 2011

newtonmore - 2011

Typical Norries IV,5 under powder, ice and crud ;-)
Heike - 21/Nov/10 with Jeremy

MonkeyDawson - AltLd - 20/Mar/10 with Bob Foster

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Mar/10

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Mar/10

akhughes - Lead - Mar/10

Alastair MacSween - AltLd - 12/Feb/10 with Phil Warriner

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - 01/Feb/09

Hidden - 2nd dog - Feb/09

dave_tomlin - Feb/09 with Tom Evans

adw07 - AltLd O/S - 01/Nov/08 with Andy and Neil

lots of deep snow - Did 1st pitch only then backed off, but felt more like V 5/6?
Yourlead - 2nd - 23/Nov/07 with Graham Penny

Hidden - Lead - Feb/02

Hidden - Lead - 1998

Hidden - 2nd - 1994

Voting
Total votes cast 55
hard V1 of 20
V0 of 20
easy V11 of 20
hard IV3 of 20
IV4 of 20
easy IV0 of 20
hard III1 of 20
III0 of 20
easy III0 of 20
hard 60 of 20
61 of 20
easy 61 of 20
hard 513 of 20
52 of 20
easy 51 of 20
hard 41 of 20
41 of 20
easy 40 of 20
3 Stars0 of 15
2 Stars7 of 15
1 Star8 of 15
0 Stars0 of 15
Bag of .....0 of 15
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Style of ascent

Lead13 of 58 (22.4%)
Followed6 of 58 (10.3%)
Alt Leads33 of 58 (56.9%)
Unknown6 of 58 (10.3%)

'Climbed'29 of 58 (50.0%)
clean O/S24 of 58 (41.4%)
clean rpt1 of 58 (1.7%)
dogged1 of 58 (1.7%)
dnf3 of 58 (5.2%)