Derbyshire > Froggatt Edge >
 
Oedipus Ring Your Mother** E4 6b

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<< Oedipus Traverse
 
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[Billy Lawrence on his first e4 Oedipus ring your mother, 2 kb]8m. A taxing traverse from the right, along the sloping finger break, gains a shallow flake. A committing long stretch and ancient chipped hold (lest we forget) reaches the Valkyrie stance. The traverse is often done as a good V3 (6b) problem. There is also an excellent Direct Start using a blatant chipped hold. This is only V2 (6a) and is historically less satisfying. © ROCKFAX
FA. Tom Proctor (solo) 1968

Ticklists: Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, The Peak: past and Present, Big Rons 100 extremes in a day, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties.

Photo: Billy Lawrence on his first e4 Oedipus ring your mother © GuyVG
View all 14 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 105 logbooks, and on 24 wishlists.

Got to the last move to hit the shelf several times but kept bottling it, will be back with a couple of pads, would still be a big fall but more survivable over pads.
Bloke on a Rope - Solo dnf - 01/Apr/14 with Vic, Matt

Hidden - Lead rpt - 19/Jan/14

highball, though heading round the arÍte to top out makes you think twice about where the mates are.
GuyVG - Sent - 15/Dec/13

Hidden - Sent dnf - 15/Dec/13

No pads, cos it's clearly not E4 with them. Pretty pleased, especially after such a long last move. It's not really 6b though is it. . .
Matthew Ferrier - Solo O/S - 04/Dec/13 with Calum Wadsworth

Direct start, took a few goes to get the first move. Pads.
James Oakes - Solo - 30/Nov/13 with Gareth Hooson

Hidden - Solo dnf - 28/Apr/13

Not the best style. Top roped it before solo regret top ropping it top move was easy
Haydn Jones - Solo RP - 03/Apr/13

Flash snowball. 6b+
masonwoods101 - Sent β - 29/Mar/13 with danjimwill

snowballed
birdie1989 - Solo - 29/Mar/13

danjimwill - 29/Mar/13 with masonwoods101

Hidden - Solo O/S - Mar/13

Direct Start (Traverse damp). Ground up. 1 pad.
Ollie B - Solo β - 04/Jan/13 with S.Bennett

ejected - Lead O/S - 2013

Hidden - Sent dnf - 16/Dec/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Nov/12

Hidden - Solo RP - 20/Oct/12

Pads
mark20 - Lead β - 30/Sep/12

J.Wells - Lead β - 30/Sep/12 with Mark Rankine

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/12

One Pad
Daniel Heath - Sent rpt - 16/Sep/12

ground up 2nd try, should of onsighted it.
BRoe - Solo RP - 21/Jul/12 with whitehouse_rhys, Mark Roe

Ground up second attempt, fell off the traverse on my first try. I linked this with the last pitch of Valkyrie which made for an awesome lead. Pads used for Oedipus, a fall from the top crux would still have been nasty though.
MarkRoe - Lead RP - 21/Jul/12 with Rhys Whitehouse, Ben Roe

With the traverse this time. Slipped off the traverse first go, got it second. Didn't climb very well though, feet slipping all over the place. Video here https://vimeo.com/42303017
Daniel Heath - Solo RP - 16/May/12

bouldered the hard part to the ledge of valkarie at half hight and had a rope and harness thrown up to finish through the last pitch of valkarie. I did the bottom of this route as a boulder prob last time i was at the crag so it wasnt a onsight, but did do it first go.
henry peter jenkins - Lead RP - 06/May/12 with jamie standbridge, emilio bachini

Direct start, no mats. Reached the last hard move the day before but got scared and down climbed. Nice to get it done first thing the next day.
Daniel Heath - Lead β - 21/Mar/12 with Remus

For the video (finally got the camera to work) still buzzing off doing it 5 min previous.
Daniel Heath - Lead rpt - 21/Mar/12 with Remus

nice to repeat it. cheers to the lads for the pads and spot. Direct start again
al123 - Sent - 04/Feb/12 with richard

Ground up above a load of pads. great climb. macthed at the break then downclimbed and jumped off, too windy and cold to solo up or down valkyrie. Direct start too
al123 - Solo - 12/Jan/12

Hidden - Solo - 12/Jan/12

And down climbed
Ally Smith - Solo rpt - 15/Oct/11

Ground up above pads, traverse start. Brilliant!
AlistairB - Solo - 15/Oct/11 with Tom Coyne

Hidden - Sent - 15/Oct/11

Direct Start, Ground up.
Chris_barr - Lead - 03/Sep/11 with Chris Lockyer

Can't claim an onsight as I had seen Katy W on the ukc vid. awesome highball though. Did 6b start which seems more hard 5c
akhughes - Solo β - 14/Apr/11

Direct start. Brilliant!
willackers - Solo β - 06/Mar/11 with Ginger Chris

Watched Adam do it first then flashed. Did orginal traverse and down soloed Valkyrie.
Ed Booth - Solo β - 23/Jan/11 with Adam Long, Sean Grady

grady - Solo O/S - Jan/11

Ethan - Solo O/S - 11/Dec/10 with Don Walker

harvie - Solo O/S - 08/Dec/10

Excellent climb! Did it the old fashioned way, never 6b though! Lovely sting in the tail!
dodfoster - Lead O/S - 28/Nov/10 with mark

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Sent - 28/Nov/10

Direct start. Down climbed from last move twice before going for it. Easy when you do. RP fell out when I got to the break, had a bit of a wobble not knowing you have to go to the arete.
Richard Hall - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/10 with Anais

Had done the traverse previously about 3 years ago. Seem to remember climbing part way up the route too before getting scared and climbing back down. Went smoothly today although it was an ungraceful grovel onto the stance!
Somerset swede basher - Solo RP - 29/Aug/10 with Sarah, Bernie and Lawrence

did the direct start, fell off the first move one first go though, then did it straight after. scary scary scary last move! especially not knowing whether the hold would be any good. first e4 and best climbing experience so far!
Bill Lawrence - Solo - 10/Aug/10 with Guy VG, oaksi2

irish paul - Solo O/S - 24/Apr/10

Fairly steady mostly, hard stuff is lower down but still an interesting top move. No pads.
Mike Goldthorp - Solo O/S - 13/Mar/10

mic_b - Sent x - 23/Jan/10 with James Blake

direct start above mats..
drewish - Solo - 23/Jan/10 with SteveE9

Hidden - Solo O/S - 07/Jan/10

Hidden - Solo - 2010

Did the direct start at the beginning of the day. Came back to do the right-hand traverse start at the end of the day and fell off the very top ledge due to fatigue, dislocating my finger and pushing the bone out through the front of my hand. Not recommended.
kingholmesy - Solo - 2010

St0neMonkey - TR O/S - 2010

JulesV - Solo rpt - 20/Oct/09

not 6b , sustained 6a!
mgeek - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/09 with adam hughes

JM - Solo - 18/Sep/09 with Andrew Stripp

dan gibson - Solo O/S - 18/Sep/09

had to slap for the top jug, cracking climbing. Then had to call down for rope to do valkyrie, bowlined round waist. Did a hands-abb off the top. (also soloed sunset slab and reversed sunset crack, seconded strapiombo and the big crack.)
Alex Mason - Solo O/S - 06/Sep/09 with Noaksy, Billy Laurence

Boy - Sep/09

DaveFidler - TR RP - Jul/09

Fell off the last hold! Next time its going to go!
MorganPreece - Solo dnf - 31/Jan/09 with Jim, Monty, Nick, Kylie, Ben moon and Jerry moffat

Simply the best route I've done. Brilliant open face climbing, and to finish up the second pitch of Valkyrie (my second favorite route) was just brilliant!
Twisty - Lead O/S - 17/Jan/09

Hidden - Solo - 2009

Hidden - Solo - 09/Dec/08

Hidden - Solo - 20/Nov/08

Hidden - Solo O/S - 16/Oct/08

Hidden - Solo RP - 10/Oct/08

Hidden - Solo - 03/Oct/08

MYSSAK - Solo rpt - 17/May/08

MYSSAK - Solo β - 05/Apr/08

Hidden - Solo dnf - 11/Nov/07

via the original finger traverse in. Quite knarly - took a few goes.
Ram MkiV - Solo - 07/Oct/07 with Alex B, Alex M, Toby

direct start
Ram MkiV - Solo O/S - 20/Sep/07

Hidden - 2007

Hidden - Solo - 21/Oct/06

tumbling wizard - Solo RP - 16/Oct/06

lukea - Sent β - 15/Oct/06 with dan

Castleclimber - Sent x - 15/Oct/06

Hidden - Solo - 26/Apr/06

Hidden - Solo O/S - 05/Mar/06

Will_he_fall - Solo O/S - 04/Feb/06

John Roberts (JR) - 2006

Birdo - 2006 with Dave Bird

bronsonite - Solo O/S - 27/Sep/05

Hidden - Solo RP - Sep/05

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Solo β - 2005

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo O/S - 15/May/04

I climbed the start of this route as a boulder problem some years before doing the whole route. It was soloed ground up, but as John Mason kindly pointed out this is not an onsight....
Daniel Armitage - Solo RP - 06/Mar/04

Dave Bond - Solo RP - 16/Mar/03

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Solo O/S - Jun/02

tuftynick - Lead - 2000

Roget - Solo O/S - 11/Oct/97

Hidden - TR - 1995

Hidden - Solo O/S - Mar/92

Only went to the top because i was too crap at down climbing to get off it. :)
adi bryant - Solo O/S - 30/May/91

Hidden - Solo - 19/Jan/91

Date a rough guess
andy farnell - Solo O/S - 1990

Hidden - Solo - 1989

shark - Solo β - Oct/88

sadams - Solo - 03/Aug/87 with Guy Townsend

Pedro50 - Solo - 01/Jul/87

Jim Fowler - 1986

Hidden - Lead - 1985

Kept bailing at layaway and scuttling back down with Big Ron egging me on. Never did get back to complete it.
Lone Rider - Solo dnf - May/84

Chris Craggs - Solo - 1980

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Voting
Total votes cast 92
hard E50 of 31
E50 of 31
easy E51 of 31
hard E46 of 31
E422 of 31
easy E41 of 31
hard E31 of 31
E30 of 31
easy E30 of 31
hard 6c0 of 33
6c0 of 33
easy 6c0 of 33
hard 6b2 of 33
6b7 of 33
easy 6b11 of 33
hard 6a13 of 33
6a0 of 33
easy 6a0 of 33
3 Stars17 of 28
2 Stars11 of 28
1 Star0 of 28
0 Stars0 of 28
Bag of .....0 of 28
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Style of ascent

Soloed68 of 105 (64.8%)
Lead17 of 105 (16.2%)
Toproped3 of 105 (2.9%)
Bouldered11 of 105 (10.5%)
Unknown6 of 105 (5.7%)

'Climbed'36 of 105 (34.3%)
clean O/S29 of 105 (27.6%)
clean β12 of 105 (11.4%)
clean rpt6 of 105 (5.7%)
clean RP15 of 105 (14.3%)
dnf7 of 105 (6.7%)