75m, 3 pitches. A neglected classic, which was restored in 2016. The obvious soaring crack-line has committing climbing in exposed positions. Take plenty of big cams/hexes for the chimney section (cams 5 and 6 useful but not essential). Belay at a short corner where the approach traverse exits the cave.
1 27m 5b/c Traverse right between the overhangs to a niche (often damp) and make urgent moves up the crack and right wall. Bear left to join Moonraker and follow this to its stance.
2 13m 5c Move up, then right beneath an overlap (essential smallish cam and nut protection) then make reluctant moves to gain the big flat hold in the main crack. Tiring moves lead up to a stance in a chimney (Cam 4, plus other gear higher up).
3 33m 5b Continue to the roof and grab the horizontal fang out left without dislodging any loose rock. A welcome thread rewards your bravery. Continue to join Moonraker at a niche via a hard jam/layback. Step right and jam/layback another diagonal crack and follow the groove above more easily to the top.

Pat Littlejohn & Frank Cannings (3 pts) 13/4/69 FFA Littlejohn & C King 28/Oct/1977

Brian H 11/Sep AltLd

Bit of a battle on p2! Great route.

Hidden 07/Sep/86 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/80 Lead O/S
pete osullivan ?/Aug/78 Lead O/S

2nd free ascent on sight. Got my arm stuck in long crack, panicked then realised it was the perfect rest. Tremendous tussle with enormous Blackberry bush.

with Cathy Woodhead
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