Rockfax Description
The superb soaring central crack-line is compelling and hard work, but less so than you might be expecting. Big gear needed. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1950

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Wide Cracks, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Joe Brown's Three-Star Grit-List, Ultimate HVS ticklist.

nrhardy 22/Nov Lead O/S
the power 22/Nov Lead

Just shite

with neil
georgenvk 01/Nov 2nd dog
admackie 11/Oct Lead O/S

not as hard as i thought it was going to be

with andy
Gudge 25/Sep 2nd O/S
vigroovian 19/Sep TR O/S

Struggled to start - pretty heavy and committing moves to begin with then some beautiful climbing. Loved this climb - glad i top roped it first as out of jamming practice. Will definitely give it a lead next time :)

with Ellie Cotterill
amccann 13/Sep Lead O/S
Dan Mckinlay ?/Sep Lead
poeter210 02/Aug Lead dog

Enjoyable but brutal, the move off the ground is quite strenuous for 5a

druss 02/Aug 2nd O/S
Andy Peak 1 09/Jun Lead rpt

good worm up but

Louishmouis 30/May Lead O/S
with Felix
gavinpeach 30/May Lead O/S

Really nice climbing with bomber jams and gear throughout.

with Max Pendleton
belay bunny turned bad 04/May Lead O/S
with soph, CJC
soph 04/May 2nd rpt
with Clare Jane carter, Becky Lounds
Hidden 01/May 2nd O/S
clairejane ?/May 2nd
with Sophie
Hidden ?/May 2nd O/S
ashtond6 21/Mar Lead O/S
the power 12/Feb Lead
with Andy
dr_botnik 12/Feb Lead O/S
Andy Peak 1 12/Feb -

Good efort from phill

with phill ukc
Felix la shat ??/2015 TR O/S
with Louis
hailtryfan ?/Nov/14 2nd
with Andrew Porter
DavidPC 28/Oct/14 2nd
with Johnny D
tsjx 05/Oct/14 2nd
with Dave C, John Mc
soph 05/Oct/14 2nd rpt
with Tony Stone
TobyA 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Tom R
PeteH 24/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Chris Fox
rurp 23/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Fantastic. No 6 cam and big bros placed for the first time!

with bill farmer
Hidden 13/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Joemanglerocks 12/Jul/14 Lead
with Satoshi Kimura
Kirill 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S

HVS in Curbar grades.

with EeFu
EeFu 14/Jun/14 2nd dog
R0bbie 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Taba
dannyboy83 31/May/14 2nd O/S
with Floris
Matt Cooke 26/May/14 2nd rpt
with Rosh
deacondeacon 22/May/14 Lead O/S

Green, wet lower crack and then raining for the rest. Quite bold if you haven't saved a big cam for the top half. Great route though.

kyaizawa 11/Jan/14 Lead O/S
with Sophie Cheng
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
madasten 21/Dec/13 2nd

Was bloomin windy!

with Gaz
gazfellows 21/Dec/13 Lead

Cracking route, proper old school HVS. 5 stars !!

with Billy
Matt Cooke 16/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with Sam Taylor
valentinesbabe 05/Oct/13 TR dog

And oh my god did I have to work this one. Came off the burly start moves about six times before finally getting it clean. The initial jam just being a little too sloppy to feel really comfortable and have grit rash to prove it :D The rest of the climb is great with some really nice moves and it was definitely worth perservering.

Jackwd 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Just get on it! Not as hard/imposing as it looks.

charley 05/Oct/13 2nd RP

Tough start, especially when there's cam blocking the hidden holds in the crack...

with JackD, Ange, Kev
Hidden 01/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/May/13 2nd O/S
Dan Geh 17/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Brilliant stuff! Climbed surprisingly elegantly.

tgeh 17/Apr/13 2nd O/S

amazing climb, standard HVS and standard 5a

with dan geh
nick ferro 06/Apr/13 -
Hidden 06/Apr/13 2nd
Gambit 02/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Barney
dionisys ??/2013 2nd
with pat dawson, vanderz
Nevil ??/2013 Lead
with Vince
Vincej ??/2013 2nd
with Nevil
patsaunders ?/Oct/12 2nd
Tony Holdsworth 29/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with Tom Reed, Nick Mitchell
Reedymc 29/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Nick Mitchell, Tony Holdsworth
Hidden 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
ranga 11/Aug/12 2nd
stuaart 21/Jul/12 2nd

Neil led. Quality route---must lead it myself next time.

with Dave Payne, Neil Redgrave
pie_eater_pete 25/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with bwestwood
bwestwood 25/Jun/12 2nd
harold walmsley 06/Mar/12 Lead rpt

Struggled unexpectedly on the start

with Colin Struthers
Hidden ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Bob Windsor ?/Nov/11 Lead
bigdrew 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Mark R
mark20 16/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
marcoleptic 13/Oct/11 Lead dog

Thought I was quite good at jamming until today. Took 2 rests at 2M then managed to grind it out to the finish. Thought I might have to aid it at one point. Oh the shame!

with Tommo
Hidden 17/Aug/11 2nd β
andybirtwistle 02/Aug/11 Lead

A superb JoeBrown classic,can't understand why Iv'e left it so long.Beware limestone crimpers :)

with Keith Lonsdale
Hidden 03/Jul/11 Lead
TerryLines 02/Jul/11 2nd
Mr. K 10/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Apr/11 Lead rpt
jkarran 02/Apr/11 Lead

An embarrassing fight! This can it seems be done quite smoothly with sufficient ability

with Aly, Pete
petellis 02/Apr/11 2nd O/S
disturbed_one51 26/Mar/11 Lead
Dave Turnbull, BMC 14/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Rob Dyer, Rob Adie
Rob84 14/Mar/11 2nd dog

Brutal! My offwidth technique has been shown up as sorely lacking by this

with Dave Turnbull
bigie bob 16/Feb/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
DeanD ??/2011 -
DeanD ??/2011 -
Jonathan Hall 16/Nov/10 2nd
stuart34 14/Nov/10 Lead dog
crispyboy 14/Nov/10 2nd
with inchley
HamishD 06/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Beth UNUMC
Diggler 06/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Calder
Calder 06/Nov/10 2nd
with Mark
Birdo 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S


The Mountain Goat 02/Oct/10 2nd dog
Abevan 02/Oct/10 2nd
with james walker
joese7en 30/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Jim Slater 19/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/10 2nd rpt
Tony Holdsworth 31/Jul/10 Lead rpt
with Martin Haworth
jtree03 25/Jul/10 Lead
with Tony, Brother Al
Hidden 02/Jul/10 Lead O/S
helios 09/May/10 2nd

V impressive lead by Matt. Found this v tiring on the arms!

with Mathew Cantrill
Onion magnet 09/May/10 Lead dog

Unfortunately had to rest on this one, great gear but a bugger to place as most of the first moves are on powerful jams. Great route though

with Jenny
burto 15/Apr/10 Lead β
with fergus, lyndsey
Fergus Cuthill 15/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Graeme Hammond 20/Feb/10 Lead O/S

brutal but excellent and essential. The lower crack ate part of my hand and lots of dripping blood was involved :o abseiled to get gear but had to climb back up after forgetting to pick up my helmet which i took off to enter the upper crack. Small wires would have bee useful above here if i hadn't forgotten them.

Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
buxtoncoffeelover ??/2010 2nd
MikeDowsett ??/2010 2nd
TonyF ??/2010 Lead
david morse 28/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with steve+cliff
Hidden 26/Oct/09 2nd dog
Pete Graham 26/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Oct/09 2nd O/S
Ketu 16/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Nigel
GrantB 12/Sep/09 Lead
mattyork2 12/Sep/09 2nd O/S
ed woods 18/Aug/09 2nd
with Adam
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 09/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/May/09 2nd
Adam1973 25/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Big Ian
nige 05/Apr/09 2nd
with richard kirby
Rich Kirby 29/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Nige
Hidden 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Si dH 28/Feb/09 Lead O/S

Good stuff, traditional fist-jamming :) Left a few grazes on my hand...

with Neil Furniss
hrgcb ??/2009 Lead
with Joe Prinold
keith leonard ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 -
Bristoldave 18/Dec/08 Lead β
with Helen
nadeem 03/Dec/08 Lead O/S

Second Lead

Martin Haworth 16/Nov/08 Lead O/S
with Andy
Andrew Sloan 16/Nov/08 2nd dog

What a ball buster!

btc 28/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Ben Harper
Ben Harper 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with ben cole
Toby Dunn 03/Sep/08 Solo
OffshoreAndy 22/May/08 2nd
with Works Simon
Pilch 10/May/08 2nd O/S

Graham led, hard to get started, fist jam then reach into the crack for holds,doesnt ease of , although less sustained.

with Graham and Ed
EdShep 10/May/08 2nd O/S
with Pilch and Graham
mje1398 16/Feb/08 2nd O/S
with Emily S + John M
jamesturnbull ??/2008 Lead
Sean Kelly ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
stephenhartley ??/2008 2nd
jimbonfire 15/Oct/07 Lead O/S
colin milton 10/Oct/07 2nd
with pep
Chris Ellis 01/Sep/07 2nd
with Nige Shaw
Oliver Sherman 05/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Sophie Whyte
Hidden 28/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Adam Potter 02/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Feb/07 Lead rpt
adam carless 04/Feb/07 Lead O/S

The first 10ft were a real battle, apparently I missed some good holds hidden in the crack. After that it was great. A true Curbar style climb.

Nicos 28/Jan/07 Lead O/S
steve taylor ??/2007 -
Hidden 03/Nov/06 2nd
John Marsland 07/Oct/06 Lead β

Pre-placed gear

goi.ashmore 07/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with John Marsland
Hidden 23/Sep/06 Lead O/S
fizzy_elephant 23/Sep/06 2nd O/S
with stu
Stig 27/Aug/06 2nd O/S

Only just 'clean onsight'!

with Karl Walton
Hidden ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
reg_measures 24/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Jorge
Hidden ?/May/06 Solo
cragdan 16/Apr/06 2nd
with Dan Gibson
dan gibson 16/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with AJ
AJ007 16/Apr/06 Lead
with Dan
Hidden ??/2006 -
shark 23/Aug/05 Solo O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/05 Lead
Hidden ??/2005 -
Ram MkiV ??/2004 Lead O/S
with Alex Mason
Hidden ?/Jul/03 Lead
Hidden 20/Apr/03 Lead
Hidden 06/Oct/02 Lead rpt
Hidden 05/Oct/02 Lead O/S
shoulders 12/May/02 Lead
with joules
Alastair Hudson 03/Mar/02 Lead
with Mia Stacey
Hidden 15/Jul/01 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 05/Jun/01 2nd
Hidden 08/Oct/00 Lead O/S
Rich Malcolm 15/Apr/00 Lead O/S
with Matt Brennan
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/99 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Dec/97 Lead O/S
ste_d 30/Jun/97 Lead O/S
with mik
Hidden ??/1997 -
Hidden 03/Nov/96 Lead
mikedelderfield 16/May/96 2nd O/S
daprince ?/Jun/92 -
Hidden ??/1992 Lead
Roget 13/Oct/91 Lead O/S
with colin
Neil R 13/May/90 Lead
with Sharon
Hidden ??/1990 -
John Marsland 30/Apr/89 2nd
with Dave Mould
Hidden 05/Nov/88 2nd
charlesmfrench 18/May/86 2nd O/S
Tom V ??/1986 -
stp 02/Oct/83 Solo O/S
Mark Kemball 13/Feb/82 2nd
with Dave Abbey
Andy Fielding ??/1981 2nd
babymoac 01/Jun/80 Lead
with MTW
Mark Kemball 23/Feb/80 Solo
uphillnow ??/1980 Lead
with Dave Booth
Nigel Bond 23/May/78 Lead
with Martin Crosby
Hidden 16/Jul/77 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/77 Lead
Derek Ryden ??/1976 Lead O/S
with Glynne Andrew
Dave Musgrove 11/Oct/70 -

Plus several other routes on Froggat and Curbar

Hidden 26/May/68 2nd
mikej 01/Sep/67 Lead
with John Lee
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High E1
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High HVS
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High 5b
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High 4c
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Votes cast 48
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
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