Derbyshire > Curbar Edge >
 
Soyuz** E2 5c

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[Soyuz, trying to find a non sloping hold, 3 kb]10m. The cracks in the north-facing side wall lead to a sloping shelf. Before you pump out, stretch awkwardly right and reach for the top, or go direct. Low in the grade and a good first E2. © ROCKFAX
FA. John Allen 1972

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, The Froggatt to Black Rocks into E2 smile list, Big Rons 100 extremes in a day, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age, Ultimate E2 ticklist.

Photo: Soyuz, trying to find a non sloping hold © JPGR
View all 5 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 145 logbooks, and on 24 wishlists.

ASchwirtz - 2nd O/S - 30/Mar/14 with Brian Rogers

Brian Rodgers - Lead rpt - 30/Mar/14 with Ant

dominic lee - Solo - 09/Mar/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/14

Frank the Husky - 2014

bwestwood - 2nd - 25/Nov/13

pie_eater_pete - Lead O/S - 25/Nov/13

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Sep/13

slacky - 2nd O/S - 14/Sep/13 with Mel, Ben

Haydn Jones - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/13 with duncan

Hardcore Pat - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/13 with Chris Vanderz

easy end of e2 and of 5c but good route
climberchristy - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/13 with Ben Cole

dionisys - 2nd - 2013 with pat dawson, vanderz

Bex_M - TR dog - 09/Sep/12 with Duncan Dunbar

Only E1 by Curbar standards. But still not that straight forward.
Dan Geh - 2nd O/S - 03/Aug/12 with Thomas Geh

tgeh - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/12 with dan geh

Dave Foster - 2nd rpt - 15/Jul/12 with Si 2

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/12

sazmaz - 2nd β - 11/Jun/12 with Frank Ramsden

2nd go
robertmichaeladams - Lead - 04/Jun/12 with Andy H

Dogged this almost 6 years ago but couldnt remember any of it. Had to fight quite a bit - snow all over the ground didn't help as I got pumped drying my rockboots! Although it has been downgraded to E1 in the latest BMC guide, I think it is worth E2 - it's short but pretty sharp.
Si dH - Lead rpt - 06/Apr/12 with Mark Derby

Good route. Blew the traverse just after doing Apollo last year still pumped. Still tricky but then realised I was hanging on to the flake with it almost in the bag much to my surprise :)
Graeme Hammond - Lead rpt - 17/Mar/12 with Jim

Pete Graham - Lead - 01/Mar/12 with Malcolm Scott

Tony Kartawick - 2012

intense for such a short route
catblack - 2nd - 03/Sep/11 with Si

Speeddemonsi - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead dnf - 01/Sep/11

DaveFidler - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/11

Chris M - 2nd - 15/Aug/11 with trystan

Hidden - 2nd β - 15/Aug/11

got to the traverse right then lowered off as i didnt have the right size gear for the breaks. really annoying as i could have done it in one. nice route though.
al123 - Lead - 07/Aug/11 with alex

Hidden - Lead β - 20/Jun/11

Katya - 2nd O/S - 05/Jun/11 with Paul Phillips

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead rpt - 05/Jun/11 with Katya Sourkova

Needed a rest on the rope to get all the gear out of the top break.
Mr. K - 2nd dog - 10/May/11 with Pete Dollman

Buggered up the gear but the topoot wasn't as bad as the guidebook suggests.
Jonathan Hall - Lead - 26/Mar/11 with Rob Middleton

Cracking route
Rob84 - 2nd dog - 14/Mar/11 with Rob Adie

James Oakes - Lead O/S - 28/Jan/11 with Sam Hamer, Steve Ramsden

Hidden - 2nd dog - 2011

Hidden - Lead - 2011

bigdrew - Lead dog - 30/Oct/10 with Mark R

mark20 - 2nd O/S - 30/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/10

wolverine - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/10 with James Graham

Hidden - Lead dog - 25/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead dnf - 25/Sep/10

Pumped silly and slumped on cams. Pulled rope and managed it clean second go. Not very enjoyable climbing and tough at new grade of E1 5c.
Dave Foster - Lead rpt - 25/Sep/10 with Andy

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/10

JPGR - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10

Fun route, good gear.
highlux - Lead O/S - Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/May/10

Faffed up and down 4 times before committing to the jug (easy in the end) but didn't like the feel of the slopers above and bailed. Good value pump-per-meter, one to come back to when fitter.
Owen W-G - Lead dnf - 23/Apr/10 with Simon Denison

Fergus Cuthill - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/10

naffan - 2nd - 15/Apr/10 with Fergus Cuthill

Not the greatest conditions but after much faffing on last move, managed to get it sussed in time. Never got too pumped, felt in control.
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 28/Oct/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Oct/09

Cake - Lead dnf - 17/Oct/09 with Matt

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Oct/09

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Sep/09

Ketu - Lead dog - 16/Sep/09 with Nigel

GrantB - 2nd - 12/Sep/09

mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/09 with Grant Brewer

Brown - 2nd O/S - 23/Jul/09 with John

Maybe low in the grade as there are no hard moves... but goodness it's pumpy. Struggled a bit to be honest.
chris sm - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/09 with Pippa Froggatt

bullwinkle - 2nd O/S - 23/May/09 with John

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Mar/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/09

dan gibson - 2nd O/S - 21/Mar/09 with tio

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/08

Rested on the cams
Misha - Lead dog - 16/Aug/08

ASchwirtz - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/08 with Mike Todd

Got to just below the sloping horizontal break, and bottled the move up to it (after multiple tries). Horribly hot and sweaty day. Ended up topping it to retrieve gear. Was glad to have not gone for the move on lead!
DavidR - Lead dnf - 10/May/08 with Holly Adamthwaite

DavidR - TR O/S - 10/May/08 with Holly Adamthwaite

Hidden - 2nd dog - 10/May/08

Andrew Sloan - 2nd dnf - 05/May/08 with Martin Haworth

Martin Haworth - Lead dog - 05/May/08 with Andy, Richard

Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/08 with Ant

jamesturnbull - Lead - 2008

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Ethan - Lead O/S - 2008 with Don Walker, Matt Fry

Nice route, soft for the grade. Must get fitter! Still pumped from L'Horla.
joe larner - Lead O/S - 03/Nov/07

cem - Lead β - 07/Oct/07 with David T, Rob Truckle

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/07

Hidden - Lead - 04/May/07

Coel Hellier - Lead - 01/Apr/07

fairly soft for E2, but the top moves are pretty reachy.
adam carless - 2nd O/S - 04/Feb/07 with James Rowe

shark - 2nd - 03/Feb/07 with Simon Shaw

soft E2 pumpy in the top break and a big reach for the top
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/06 with dan holdsworth

Madly pumpy. 1 rest.
Stig - Lead dog - 27/Aug/06 with Karl Walton

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/06 with Mike Hayes

Got pumped silly placing gear at the top of the crack and ended up needing two rests. Not too abd if you've got good stamina I don't think, but the whole route is slightly overhanging, which I didn't realise till I was on it!
Si dH - Lead dog - 28/May/06 with Tom Lambert

Hidden - 2nd - May/06

Boy - 2006

Hidden - 2006

frost - Lead O/S - Sep/05 with D Garry

John Pickles - 2nd - 08/Aug/05 with Zac Poulton/Kieran Hodgson

johnboyrevel - Lead O/S - Apr/05 with Eddie

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2005

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/04

Very pleased with this onsight. I really struggled with the final few moves, but fortunately there are reasonable rests available while you work it out.
Nick Smith - UKC - Lead O/S - Jul/03 with Thea Williams

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/03

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/03 with Phil Bent

did the long stretch off undercuts direct finish 'cos that's how it was described in my guide.
Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 2003 with Dan Holdsworth

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2003

tuftynick - 2003

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Oct/02

Hidden - 2000

Hidden - 2000

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 27/Jul/99

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Jul/99

Hidden - Lead - 09/May/99

Jon Read - Lead O/S - 1999 with Dave Edmunds

Rich Kirby - 2nd - Apr/98

PaulTanton - Lead O/S - Sep/97 with Dave Taylor

craig d - 1997

r0b - 2nd - 13/Oct/96 with Ian Huyton

Roget - Lead rpt - 09/Jul/96

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Jun/96

mikedelderfield - 2nd O/S - 16/May/96 with Steven Delderfield

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/96

Chris Ellis - 2nd - 18/Jul/95 with Greg Cunningham

Hidden - Lead - 06/Jul/95

John Southworth - Lead O/S - 20/May/95

ste_d - Lead O/S - 17/May/95 with mik

Billg - Lead O/S - Oct/94 with Simon Cox

Rich Kirby - 2nd - 03/Oct/93

Hidden - Lead rpt - 03/Oct/93

Hidden - Lead - 16/Aug/92

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/91

Hidden - 1990

phardman - 2nd - 11/Mar/89 with Roger Gibbs

Hidden - Lead - 05/Nov/88

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/87 with Keith Milne, Ian Milne

Hidden - Lead - 15/Aug/87

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 16/Apr/87 with Neville Elstone

Hidden - 2nd - 1987

stp - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/83

Mark Kemball - Lead - 13/Feb/82 with Dave Abbey

nbotting - 1982

Hidden - Lead - 07/May/81

andy gittins - 1972

Hidden - Lead dog - 01/Jul/69

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
dr_botnik, Hidden, Hidden, adie84, SamWimpenny, gavinpeach, Graham Booth, mfisher, Hidden, Hidden, a13x, rurp, Dean177, Hidden, Chris_barr, aretherenoneleft, BWoodward, RFWilkie, Owen W-G, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, JLS

Voting
Total votes cast 91
hard E30 of 32
E30 of 32
easy E30 of 32
hard E20 of 32
E27 of 32
easy E220 of 32
hard E15 of 32
E10 of 32
easy E10 of 32
hard 6a0 of 30
6a0 of 30
easy 6a0 of 30
hard 5c0 of 30
5c17 of 30
easy 5c12 of 30
hard 5b1 of 30
5b0 of 30
easy 5b0 of 30
3 Stars2 of 29
2 Stars24 of 29
1 Star3 of 29
0 Stars0 of 29
Bag of .....0 of 29
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 145 (0.7%)
Lead86 of 145 (59.3%)
Followed44 of 145 (30.3%)
Toproped2 of 145 (1.4%)
Unknown12 of 145 (8.3%)

'Climbed'50 of 145 (34.5%)
clean O/S63 of 145 (43.4%)
clean β4 of 145 (2.8%)
clean rpt9 of 145 (6.2%)
dogged13 of 145 (9.0%)
dnf6 of 145 (4.1%)