Derbyshire > Curbar Edge >
 
The Brain** VS 4c

Adjacent Climbs
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Oblongata >>
[James Thacker on the 'Brain' Curbar., 2 kb]18m. Climb the slabby lower wall trending right - no gear - to the base of a groove (possible belay). Climb the groove to finish. An popular alternative finish is to step left onto the arete for more exposure but with no change in grade. © ROCKFAX
FA. Slim Sorrell late 1940s 1947

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans, Chatsworth to Bamford.

Photo: James Thacker on the 'Brain' Curbar. © James Thacker
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 300 logbooks, and on 20 wishlists.

Nick1812P - Solo O/S - 05/Jun/14 with Dom

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 31/May/14 with Floris

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 31/May/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/May/14

john max - Lead - 27/Apr/14 with Jen Maxfield

john_ni - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/14 with Richard Williams (PCC)

max_chan - 2nd rpt - 24/Apr/14 with Andy Jobling

Started on Oblongata as the slab was soaking wet. Finished as per The Brain.
gavinpeach - Lead O/S - 26/Oct/13 with Max Pendleton

tomthecoolperson - 2nd - 01/Aug/13 with Andrew

Brilliant moves up the arete at the top.
victim of mathematics - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/13 with Adam

soloed the traverse because, well, it's a solo. Then tied in and seconded the last bit.
adam carless - 2nd rpt - 24/Jun/13 with victim of mathematics

Jake Young - Lead O/S - 25/May/13 with Jack

jwpil - 2nd O/S - 25/May/13 with Jake

Harri777 - 2nd - 06/May/13 with Matt Kingsley

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/May/13

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Apr/13

nick ferro - 06/Apr/13 with toolboxtim

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Apr/13

AlanPedrick - 2013

Steven Andrews - 2nd O/S - 10/Nov/12 with Lawrence

Jones_d - AltLd O/S - 29/Sep/12 with Roman

Hidden - Lead rpt - 29/Sep/12

delicate & bold low traverse
john_ni - 2nd - 09/Aug/12 with Nick Read

StewartBradshaw - 2nd O/S - 22/Jul/12

Neil led as one pitch. Bottom is surprisingly bold for VS even though the moves are no more than 4c.
stuaart - 2nd - 21/Jul/12 with Neil Redgrave

tiga271 - Lead - 01/Jun/12 with Dave

Bold start on either end of the rope! Great position and moves on the arete.
Monkey_Alan - 2nd - 20/May/12 with Tom Starks, Max Streeton

soloed the slabby wall to start,Max led the route.lovely finish up the arete
tomshanti - 2nd β - 20/May/12 with Max Streeton, Alan Blanchflower

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/May/12

Finished on the arete
charley - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with Steve Fletcher

chumleywarner - 2nd O/S - 12/May/12 with Charley Fell

Nice and varied, arete finish in particular contrast to start.
slacky - 2nd O/S - 31/Mar/12 with Ben

finished on the arÍte this time, Excellent! Still found the slab bold.
Graeme Hammond - Lead rpt - 17/Mar/12 with Jim

harold walmsley - 2nd rpt - 06/Mar/12 with Colin Struthers

Robin Nichols - Lead O/S - 26/Feb/12

ushi - 2012

Hidden - 2012

spragglerocks - 2nd O/S - 29/Oct/11 with Steve M, Matt Box

SteveM - 2nd - 29/Oct/11 with Matt Box, Rachael

Lots of fun, great route, and worth a couple of stars
Lumbering Oaf - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/11 with Steve M, Rachel Spraggs

Just did the top pitch
thomasaneurinsmith - 2nd O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Stuart Reeves

Led only top pitch due to deciding against Birthday Crack.
stuaart - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Thomas Smith

g1m147 - Lead - 15/Oct/11

Posted an RP2 through a thin slot & turned it side on half way across traverse. Finished up arete.
marcoleptic - Lead O/S - 13/Oct/11 with Tommo

shafiq lalloo - 2nd O/S - 03/Oct/11

Fell off from the start of the slab & offered RT the lead. I found the slab to be tough with no meaningful protection. We belayed half way to avoid rope drag and RT led to the top via the aret finish - excellent. Worth doing just for the top crack.
Pete Nugent - 2nd - 23/Sep/11 with Richard Toon

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Sep/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/11

DaveFidler - 2nd O/S - 17/Aug/11

davewsargent - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/11 with dave pellat

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Aug/11

Olli did well to lead this - the start is quite bold. Smears, no gears...Glad I wasn't leading. Gets HVS in my book for this reason.
wahniel - 2nd O/S - 13/Aug/11 with olliver hoffmann

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/11

andybirtwistle - Lead - 02/Aug/11 with Keith Lonsdale

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Jul/11

TerryLines - Lead - 02/Jul/11

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Jul/11

cragtyke - 2nd - 11/Jun/11 with gareth h

Katya - 2nd - 05/Jun/11 with Paul Phillips

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/11 with Katya Sourkova

SteveM - 2nd - 23/Apr/11 with Kat

kitkat78 - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/11 with SteveM

Rain stopped play - Ian's shoulder problem
Tony Holdsworth - 2nd rpt - 03/Apr/11 with Ian Holtby

The slab feels just as bold on second as it would be on lead, good footholds but nothing for your hands.
asmith37 - 2nd O/S - 02/Apr/11 with Matt Todd, Dave Rose

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Apr/11

SteWatkins - Apr/11

Jonathan Hall - 2nd - 26/Mar/11 with Rob Middleton

Hidden - Lead rpt - 06/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2011

richardr - Lead O/S - 2011

Hidden - Lead - 2011

GuyM - 2011

PAJames - 2011

PAJames - 2011

PAJames - 2011

PAJames - 2011

dangerousoldfool - Lead O/S - 2011 with Budge

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Nov/10

pimpy - Lead - 13/Nov/10 with clare muir

mark20 - 2nd O/S - 07/Nov/10

Really really good. Worth three stars and the exposure up the arete is fantastic! Brilliant and varied.
James Oswald - Lead O/S - 07/Nov/10 with Mark Rankine

Delightful balancy slab to begin, with little/no protection, and a juggy exposed arete finish made this a really pleasant route- a lovely way to finish a day. An unusual lack of gear at times for a VS but it would be a remarkably soft HVS, the current grade is probably fair.
melonmike - Lead O/S - 07/Nov/10 with Bart Harris, Fran Pickerill

Hidden - Lead dnf - 30/Oct/10

Fantastic winding route through the Brain
Steven Andrews - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Oct/10

Led as one pitch. Traverse at the start is very balancy. Moved out to the arete near the top.
Jimbo C - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/10 with Pete, Gethin

Lead the bold first pitch. Some of the flakes looked really dubious and theres no gear. Started pitch 2, got out to flake on the arete, placed dodgy weigted sling just as gear in the corner pulled out. Found my self 15m up with only a weighted down sling for pro. Got scared, reversed to the ledge and let Edd do the top pitch. Top end VS i'd say.
popebenedictus - AltLd O/S - 09/Sep/10 with Edd Rab

Lead 2nd pitch moving out to the arete half way up.
edd rab - AltLd O/S - 09/Sep/10 with Ben Harding

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/10

Andrew Sloan - 2nd rpt - 01/Aug/10 with Tony Holdsworth

Tony Holdsworth - 2nd rpt - 01/Aug/10 with Martin Haworth

Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/10 with Tony, Andy

JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/10 with Claire

squidgebob - 2nd O/S - 31/Jul/10 with jamie

ajc - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/10

stephenhartley - 2nd - Jul/10 with Burns

Rachel Slater - Lead O/S - 22/May/10 with Chi Huo Cheng

Chi Cheng - 2nd O/S - 22/May/10 with Rachel Stater

Budge - 2nd rpt - 06/May/10 with Dave Valentine-Hagart

lower slab was harder than it looked, but still nice, and the corner above was excellent
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10 with Tony

Fergus Cuthill - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/10

JRae - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/10 with L Campbell

IAmAStone - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/10 with Charlie Jefferson

Ken Taylor - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Oct/09

Pete Graham - Solo - 26/Oct/09

MD - Lead - 10/Oct/09 with Ian W, Misha

mlmatt - 2nd - 10/Oct/09 with Dan Masterman

snakebite - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/09 with Matt Reynolds

Ketu - 2nd O/S - 16/Sep/09 with Nigel

tri-nitro-toulumne - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/09 with Rob Truckle

Oceanic - 30/Aug/09

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/09

briar4012 - 2nd O/S - 22/Jul/09 with Marti

bullwinkle - Lead rpt - 23/May/09 with John

liamoloughlin - Solo O/S - 09/May/09

Adam1973 - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/09 with Big Ian

Hidden - Solo O/S - 08/Apr/09

MONKEY78 - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/09 with Helen Garrett

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/09

Split into two pitches, led second.
Jim Slater - AltLd O/S - 15/Mar/09 with Mark Mercer

Is this ripe for the upgrade or is it just Curbar? Hmm, I think maybe the former. The 'Brain' slab has nothing but very poor psychological protection and the rock is crumbly. The upper groove is amazing, but the whole route is very insecure at the grade and very runout at the bottom. Lots of 4c moves + crap gear = HVS 4c?
Tom Last - Lead O/S - 28/Feb/09 with Denise

Hidden - 2009

keith leonard - 2009

Hidden - Lead - 2009

Hidden - Lead - 2009

Hidden - Lead - 2009

Hidden - Lead - 2009

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Dec/08

alimckay - 2nd O/S - Nov/08 with vardy

Finished up the arete. Felt exposed!
metal arms - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/08

smudge - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/08 with Will G

Finished up the groove - excellent line, and saves the hardest climbing till last.
Simon Caldwell - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/08 with Carmen

Hidden - Solo - 23/Aug/08

Phil Jennings - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/08 with Anna Jennings

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Apr/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Feb/08

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/08

AndrewJenkins - 2008

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Sean Kelly - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Different Steve - 2nd rpt - 03/Nov/07 with Andy Hansler

What a fantastic little gem of climb and what contrast - ballet like tip toeing across a slab, thrusting up the corner to stepping out onto an arete, this climb has it all - 3 stars definately.
PanzerHanzler - Lead O/S - 03/Nov/07 with Steve Culverhouse

Phil Jennings - Lead O/S - 28/Oct/07 with John Camateras

Awesome
Chris the Tall - Solo rpt - 21/Oct/07

Barry D - Lead - 18/Oct/07 with Dick Williams

jimbonfire - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/07

Andrew Sloan - 2nd rpt - 01/Sep/07 with Steve Grove

AngelaC - Lead - 02/Jun/07 with Dieter Cole

gazfellows - 2nd - May/07

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 29/Apr/07

rob wmc - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/07 with Alan

Andrew Sloan - Lead rpt - 15/Apr/07 with scott

Adam Potter - 2nd - 02/Apr/07

Hidden - Solo O/S - 04/Feb/07

My partner led Oblongata and I soled up the VS to meet up with it and clean the gear. I was a lot more nervous than I thought on the start but the rest of the route was a breeze and really good fun, especially stepping out onto the arete!
climbingpixie - 2nd - 04/Feb/07 with Owen

dustynet - 04/Feb/07 with jules

steve taylor - 2007

Hidden - 2nd - 2007

John Lisle - 2007

Different Steve - Lead rpt - 25/Jun/06 with Mike Bayley

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/06

Tobias at Home - 2nd rpt - 05/Feb/06 with SteveM

SteveM - AltLd O/S - 05/Feb/06 with Tobs

A very nice surprise - gorgeous route and worth 3 stars. The top pitch up the arete was especially nice.
Si dH - Lead O/S - 21/Jan/06 with Stephen

dan gibson - 2006

Jon Greengrass - 2nd O/S - 2006 with john nuttall

clintos - Lead O/S - 2006 with jonny green

Hidden - 2006

ChrisJD - 2nd - 10/Dec/05

catt - 2nd O/S - 10/Dec/05 with Toby

Green, slippery but highly enojyable. finished up the arete for a better finish
Tobias at Home - Lead O/S - 10/Dec/05 with catt

fizzy_elephant - Lead O/S - Oct/05 with stu

John Pickles - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/05 with Zac Poulton/Kieran Hodgson

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Jun/05

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/05

Hidden - 2nd - Jun/05

frost - Solo - May/05

shaun walby - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/05 with Phil West

Phil West - 2nd rpt - 23/Apr/05 with Shaun Walby

Hidden - Lead - 10/Apr/05

Hidden - 2005

John Brayshaw - 2nd O/S - 05/Dec/04 with Chris

Hidden - Solo rpt - 13/Nov/04

Marq - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/04 with Daniel Dennehy

kp64zl - Lead - Jul/04 with Keith

Brown - 2nd - 29/Jun/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/04

Theeni - Lead - Jun/04

Led P2
Stig - AltLd O/S - 17/May/04 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

Bottom Section Wet
Budge - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/04 with Mike Oates

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Sep/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/May/03

Hidden - Solo O/S - 26/May/03

nickdonohue - Lead - 10/May/03

Hidden - AltLd - 31/Mar/03

Hidden - AltLd - 31/Mar/03

reg_measures - 2nd O/S - 21/Feb/03 with hugh thomas

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2003

I led first pitch.
Phil West - AltLd rpt - 28/Sep/02 with Chris Tan & Joanne ?

PenJD - Lead O/S - 19/May/02 with Arnaud Garcon

Ben1983 - Lead O/S - May/02

DerwentDiluted - Lead - 11/Apr/02 with Laurie Smith

Stone Muppet - 2002

The Pylon King - Lead O/S - 2002

Hidden - Lead O/S - Nov/01

what a hoot!
Different Steve - Lead O/S - Jul/01 with Rupert Holbrook

JohnHutch - 2001 with L

Hidden - Lead - Sep/00

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/00

Split it into 2: led p1
cem - AltLd O/S - 20/May/00 with Judy Renshaw, James Gregory

Rich Malcolm - Lead β - 04/Mar/00 with Darren Pallett

Hidden - 2000

Hidden - Solo - 2000

rlrs - 2nd - 2000

Ian Archer - 2nd O/S - 09/Sep/99 with Jon Bursnall

Rich Malcolm - Lead β - 06/Jul/99 with Emma Pilkington

Hidden - 23/May/99

Jamie B - Lead - May/99 with Anthony Celli

five - Lead O/S - Jul/98

Billg - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/98 with Lucy

I led 2nd pitch.
Phil West - AltLd rpt - 20/Jun/98 with David Atherton

Rich Malcolm - Lead O/S - 30/May/98 with Rich Hewitt

Fell off first pitch and pulled gear. Stopped inches from the deck! Did top pitch after Oblongata.
RobSimmo - Lead dnf - 17/Feb/98 with Jon Berry

kato'sdad - 2nd - 17/Feb/98 with Rob Simpson

Dave Musgrove Jnr - 2nd - 25/Jan/98 with Chris Ranner, Al Willoner

Hidden - Lead - 07/Jul/97

Roget - Solo rpt - 20/Apr/97

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/97

craig d - 1997

ChrisJD - 2nd - 03/Nov/96 with TimSp

andrewbooth1000 - Lead - 27/Jul/96

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/96

colin milton - Lead - 16/May/96 with eric milton

I led 1st pitch.
Phil West - Lead rpt - 12/May/96 with David Atherton

Hidden - Lead - 05/May/96

craig h - 2nd O/S - 21/Apr/96 with Janet Hannah, Jim Mellor

BruceW - AltLd O/S - 1996 with Julian

Tim Bateman - AltLd - 20/Aug/95

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/95

I led 1st pitch.
Phil West - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/94 with Steve Wild

PaulTanton - Lead O/S - Mar/94 with Smokin Dick

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Jul/93

Rog Wilko - Lead - Jun/93 with ??

Laramadness - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/93

daprince - 1993

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/92

Hidden - Lead - 14/Jun/92

Chris the Tall - Lead O/S - May/92 with Colin

WB - Lead O/S - 1992

malc - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/91

Gordon Stainforth - AltLd - 07/Jul/91 with Mark --?

Chris Ellis - Lead O/S - 06/May/91 with Andy Barker

Hidden - Lead - Apr/91

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Jun/90

Hidden - Solo O/S - 18/Mar/90

Hidden - 1990

gordonday - Lead O/S - 1990

J R R Hartley - 2nd O/S - 05/Nov/89 with Kev Turner

Roget - Lead O/S - 01/May/89 with jim

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Jan/89

NeilGriffiths - 1989

J R R Hartley - Lead O/S - Jun/88 with Andy White

Iain Thow - Lead - 25/May/88 with Helen Jones, Simon Lee

andy tetsill - Lead - Aug/87 with Joy

Stoney Boy - Solo O/S - Mar/87

shark - Solo O/S - 11/Oct/86

RichardMc - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/86 with Pete Stokes

sadams - Solo - 05/Jul/86

Tom V - 1986

Hidden - Lead - 27/Jul/85

Billg - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/85 with Nigel Slater

pebblespanker - AltLd O/S - Jun/85 with Barry Smith

Hidden - Lead - 31/Mar/85

Hidden - 1985

Hidden - 1984

Mark Kemball - Lead - 11/Feb/83 with Derek Hersey, Sarah Clarke

solo
Mike Owen - 14/Feb/82

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 13/Feb/82 with Dave Abbey

Hidden - Solo O/S - Aug/80

babymoac - Solo - 01/Jun/80

Andy Say - Lead - 13/May/79

Nigel Bond - Lead - 04/Jun/78 with Tony Cuddy

Hidden - Lead - 09/Apr/78

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Jul/77

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/77

beaumap - 2nd - Jun/77 with Bernie Green

Bolt Phobia - 2nd - 18/May/77

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 09/Feb/75 with Charlie Cook

rogerskews - 1971

Dave Musgrove - Solo - 20/Apr/69 with Dez Hadlum

mikej - AltLd - 19/Oct/68 with Wil Hurford

mikej - Lead - 01/Sep/67 with John Lee

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
MikeStuart26, D Berry, WhipperSnapper, charlie_penny, Hidden, David Carpenter, Hidden, j4kub, Hidden, Justaname, Hidden, fozzybear, Conor1, Hidden, Hidden, alimckay, nrhardy, Davie Thomson, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 185
hard HVS0 of 64
HVS0 of 64
easy HVS2 of 64
hard VS20 of 64
VS41 of 64
easy VS1 of 64
hard HS0 of 64
HS0 of 64
easy HS0 of 64
hard 5a0 of 60
5a0 of 60
easy 5a1 of 60
hard 4c6 of 60
4c48 of 60
easy 4c3 of 60
hard 4b2 of 60
4b0 of 60
easy 4b0 of 60
3 Stars26 of 61
2 Stars33 of 61
1 Star2 of 61
0 Stars0 of 61
Bag of .....0 of 61
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Style of ascent

Soloed19 of 300 (6.3%)
Lead138 of 300 (46.0%)
Followed85 of 300 (28.3%)
Alt Leads22 of 300 (7.3%)
Unknown36 of 300 (12.0%)

'Climbed'129 of 300 (43.0%)
clean O/S142 of 300 (47.3%)
clean β3 of 300 (1.0%)
clean rpt24 of 300 (8.0%)
dnf2 of 300 (0.7%)